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Projects, Techniques, and Products
Easy-to-Build
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MORE PROJECTS
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BONUS PROJECT:
LAZY SUSAN p.
LESSONS & PRODUCTS
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^K
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VOL. 10/NO. 58 APRIL/MAY 14
D
Whats The Secret To Flawless Edge
Proles With NO REWORK?
Freuds Quadra-Cut
4 Cutter Design
Router
Bits
Freuds
Exclusive
4 Cutter
Design
Other
Router Bit
2 Cutter
Design
SCAN WITH MOBILE DEVICE
Watch Demo Now!
For A Smooth Sanded Finish...
...Without The Rework!
U.S. Patent No. 8,899,252
Now Quadra-Cut 4 Cutter Design is Available in 1/4" Shanks
13 different 1/4" shank router bits available in the
most popular proles.
Beading
Round Over
Roman Ogee
Classical Cove & Bead
Ideal for Any Project that
Requires a Flawless Finish!
For more information visit: www.freudtools.com/Quadra-Cut
Red router bits are a registered trademark of Freud America, Inc. (US) 1-800-472-7307
30TH ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL EDITION
14" DELUXE BANDSAW
Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V,
single-phase, TEFC
Precision-ground cast
iron table size: 14" sq.
Table tilt: 45 R, 10 L
Cutting capacity/throat: 1312"
Max. cutting height: 6"
Blade size: 9212"9312" L (18"34" W)
Blade speeds: 1800 & 3100 FPM
Approx. shipping weight: 247 lbs.
30TH ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL
EDITION 17" BANDSAW
Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase, TEFC
Precision-ground cast
iron table size: 17" sq.
Table tilt: 45 R, 10 L
Cutting capacity/throat: 1614"
INCLUDES DELUXE
Max. cutting height: 1218"
EXTRUDED ALUMINUM
Blade size: 13112" L (18"1" W)
FENCE, MITER GAUGE &
Blade speeds: 1700 & 3500 FPM
1
2" BLADE
Quick-release blade tension lever
Approx. shipping weight: 342 lbs.
MADE IN TAIWAN
CAST
IRON
WHEELS
MADE IN TAIWAN
99
79
shipping
shipping
177335
lower 48 states
lower 48 states
ULTIMATE 14" BANDSAW
Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V,
MADE
single-phase, TEFC
Precision-ground cast
iron table size: 14" sq.
Table tilt: 45 R, 15 L
Cutting capacity/throat: 1312"
Max. cutting height: 6"
Blade size: 9212"9312" L (18"34" W)
Blade speeds: 1500 & 3200 FPM
Deluxe heavy-duty stand
Upper & lower ball bearing blade guides
All ball bearing construction
Includes 38 blade
Approx. shipping weight: 196 lbs.
17" 2 HP HEAVY-DUTY BANDSAW
IN TAIWAN
Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, singlephase, TEFC
INCLUDES DELUXE EXTRUDED
Precision-ground cast
MITER GAUGE &
iron table size: 17" sq. ALUMINUM FENCE,
1
2" BLADE
Table tilt: 45 R, 10 L
1
Cutting capacity/throat: 16 4"
Max. cutting height: 1218"
MADE IN TAIWAN
Blade size: 13112" L (18"1" W)
Blade speeds: 1700 & 3500 FPM
Quick-release blade
tension lever
Approx. shipping weight:
346 lbs.
252923
79
SALE $ 87500
shipping
lower 48 states
252923
ONLY
G0514XF W/ FOOT BRAKE
142500
99
shipping
lower 48 states
INCLUDES BOTH REGULAR
& DADO BLADE INSERTS
G0715P ONLY $79500
14WOODC
16272
with Riving Knife
Motor: 112 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase
Precision-ground cast iron table with wings
Table size: 2514" x 40" Arbor: 58"
Arbor speed: 4000 RPM
Capacity: 318" @ 90, 214" @ 45
Rip capacity: 30" R, 12" L
Encapsulated blade for
FREE 10"
improved dust collection
CARBIDE Camlock fence with
TIPPED BLADE
micro-adjust
Fence scales on left and right side of blade
Approx. shipping weight: 208 lbs.
175370
99
SALE $ 65000
shipping
lower 48 states
Motor: 3 HP or 5 HP, 240V, single-phase
Precision-ground cast iron table
size with wings: 27" x 48"
Arbor: 58"
Cutting capacity: 2558" R, 8" L
Max. depth of cut: 3" @ 90, 218" @ 45
Approx. shipping weight:
550 lbs.
MADE IN TAIWAN
177335
99
shipping
lower 48 states
150
shipping
lower 48 states
VIEW VIDEOS AT
grizzly.com
MADE IN TAIWAN
with Riving Knife & Cast Iron Router Table
BEAUTIFUL
WHITE COLOR!
232857
shipping
lower 48 states
10" LEFT-TILTING TABLE SAWS
10" HYBRID TABLE SAW
Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase
Precision-ground cast iron table
with wings measures: 27" x 40"
Arbor: 5 8 " Arbor speed: 3850 RPM
Capacity: 3 1 8 " @ 90, 2 3 16 " @ 45
Rip capacity: 30" R, 12" L
Quick-change riving knife
Cast iron trunnions
Approx. shipping weight: 404 lbs.
99
10" LEFT-TILTING CONTRACTOR-STYLE TABLE SAW
19" HEAVY-DUTY BANDSAWS
Motor: 3 HP, 220V,
single-phase, TEFC
Precision-ground cast
DELUXE RESAW FENCE
iron table size: 2634" x 19"
INCLUDED
Table tilt: 45 R, 5 L
Cutting capacity/throat: 1814"
Max. cutting height: 12"
MADE IN TAIWAN
Blade size: 143" L (18"114" W)
Blade speeds: 1700 & 3500 FPM
Approx. shipping weight: 460 lbs.
ALSO AVAILABLE
3 GREAT SHOWROOMS!
BELLINGHAM, WA MUNCY, PA SPRINGFIELD, MO
TECHNICAL SERVICE:
570-546-9663
FAX: 800-438-5901
SUMMER SALE
FREE CATALOG
760 PAGES OF HIGH
QUALITY TOOLS AND
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INCREDIBLE PRICES
March 31 - July 31
Visit Grizzly.com to view all sale prices
W
with Riving Knife & Extension Rails
OO
Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase
Precision-ground cast iron table
Table size with extension: 27" x 7434"
Arbor: 58" Arbor speed: 4300 RPM
Max. depth of cut: 318" @ 90, 2316" @ 45
Max. rip capacity: 50" R, 12" L
Max. dado width: 1316"
Approx. shipping weight: 557 lbs.
D MAGAZI
PPR
8" JOINTERS
10" CABINET TABLE SAW
D
OVE
FREE 10"
CARBIDETIPPED BLADE
3 HP LEESON
MOTOR!
150
150
152500
shipping
lower 48 states
shipping
lower 48 states
WITH SPIRAL CUTTERHEAD
SALE $229500
OO
D MAGAZI
PPR
OVE
150
Motor: 3 HP, 220V, singlephase
CHOOSE EITHER 3
Precision-ground cast iron KNIFE OR SPIRAL
CUTTERHEAD
table size: 15" x 20"
MODEL
Min. stock thickness: 316"
Min. stock length: 8"
1
Max. cutting depth: 8"
Feed rate: 16 & 30 FPM
Cutterhead speed:
4800 RPM
Approx. shipping
$
208624
150
weight: 660 lbs.
shipping
lower 48 states
shipping
SALE $109500
SALE $169500
lower 48 states
ALSO AVAILABLE IN GRIZZLY GREEN
20" PLANER
VARIABLE SPEED PLANER/
MOULDER
Motor: 5 HP, 240V, single-phase
Maximum cutting width: 20"
Maximum cutting height: 8"
208624
Minimum stock thickness: 316"
Minimum stock length: 8"
Maximum cutting depth: 18"
POUND FOR
Feed rate: 16 FPM and 20 FPM
POUND,
Cutterhead diameter: 318"
THE BEST 20"
Cutterhead speed: 4800 RPM
PLANER VALUE
Feed rolls: solid serrated steel IN THE WORLD!
Table size: 20" x 2534" (20" x 5512" with extension)
Overall dimensions: 5512"L x 3912"W x 4578"H
Approximate shipping weight: 920 lbs.
SALE $79500
shipping
lower 48 states
shipping
lower 48 states
2 HP DUST COLLECTOR with Aluminum Impeller
Motor: 2HP, 240V, single-phase, 3450 RPM
Motor amp draw: 9 Amps
Air suction capacity: 1550 CFM
Static pressure: 11"
6" inlet has removable "Y" fitting with two 4" openings
Impeller: 1234" balanced cast aluminum
Bag capacity: 5.7 cubic feet
Standard bag filtration: 2.5 micron
247570
Portable base size: 2114" x 3312"
Bag size (dia. x depth): 1912" x 33"
MADE
IN
TAIWAN
Powder coated paint
Height with bags inflated: 78"
W1049 2 STAGE
Approx. shipping weight: 122 lbs.
CYCLONE SEPARATOR
OO
ONLY
6512"
TALL!
MADE IN ISO 9001 FACTORY!
D MAGAZI
shipping
lower 48 states
99
179
CYCLONE DUST COLLECTOR
79
Motor: 112 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase,
TEFC, 3450 RPM
MADE IN TAIWAN
Air suction capacity: 775 CFM
Static pressure at rated CFM: 1.80"
Intake port: 6" with included
5" optional port
Impeller: 1312"
BEAUTIFUL
WHITE
Height: 6512"
COLOR!
Built-in remote
control switch
FULLY MOBILE
Approx. shipping
WITH BUILT-IN
weight: 210 lbs.
CASTERS
$
Motor: 2 HP, 240V, single-phase, 12 Amps
Precision-ground cast iron table and wings
Maximum cutting width: 7"
Maximum planing height: 712"
Maximum planing depth: 18"
177335
Maximum moulding depth: 34"
Feed rate: Variable Cutterhead type: Square
Knife size: 718" x 112" x 14" HSS
Cutterhead speed: 7000 RPM 4" dust port
Rubberized steel feed rollers Powder-coated paint
Approx. shipping weight: 324 lbs.
MADE IN TAIWAN
SALE $165000
SALE $255000
PLEATED FILTER IS
PROTECTED BY A
STEEL CAGE
FREE SAFETY
PUSH
BLOCKS
15" PLANERS
12" JOINTER/PLANER COMBINATION MACHINES
NEW END-MOUNTED
Motor: 5 HP, 220V, single-phase
FENCE
Jointer table size: 14" x 5912"
1
Cutterhead dia.: 3 8"
Cutterhead speed: 5034 RPM
Max. jointer depth of cut: 18"
Max. width of cut: 12"
MADE IN TAIWAN
Planer feed rate: 22 FPM
Max. planer depth of cut: 18"
CARBIDE
Max. planer cutting height: 8" INSERT SPIRAL
Planer table size: 1214" x 2318"
CUTTERHEAD!
Approx. shipping weight: 704 lbs.
CHOOSE EITHER
4 HSS KNIVES
OR SPIRAL
CUTTERHEAD
MODEL
4 KNIFE CUTTERHEAD
232857
Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase, TEFC
Precision-ground cast iron
table size: 9" x 7212"
Max. depth of cut: 18"
Max. rabbeting depth: 12"
Cutterhead dia.: 3"
Cutterhead speed: 4800 RPM
208624
Cuts per minute: 20,000 (G0656P),
21,400 (G0656PX)
Approx. shipping weight: 500 lbs.
PPR
OVE
FREE WITH PURCHASE
SALE 32500
$
79
shipping
lower 48 states
FOLLOW US:
OVER 15,000 PRODUCTS ONLINE!
Contents: Projects
April/May 2014
24
Picture Frame
Display a favorite photo in style with
this lap joint design. Its signature
36
62
Octagonal
Picnic Table
Seat up to eight diners at this party-in-theround project. Simple cuts and joinery
Mobile
Assembly Cart
Build this hardworking organizer
from a sheet of plywood, and
bring order to your next build.
67
,<
Take a stab at knife making using hardwood scrap,
epoxy, and a kit from Sarge.
44
Hardworking Lazy Susan
Complement the octagonal picnic table or other
4
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
Cover photo: Jim Osborn
$1,097
Go to your Woodcraft dealer today to see why
everyone is raving about the 14|Twelve bandsaw
115 Volt, 1HP
Oversized Cast Trunnion
Laguna Ceramic Guides
World Class Fit & Finish
Worm Gear Rack & Pinion
Dynamically Balanced Cast Wheels
Enclosed Stand, Hi/Low Rip Fence
Optional Wheel System & Blades
LAGUNATOOLS.COM
SHOWN WITH OPTIONAL INDUSTRIAL FLOOD LIGHT
Contents: Tools & Techniques
29
Photographing
Your Projects
46
Clear Outdoor
Finishes
You dont have to be a professional
photographer to take great shots of
your work that you can share with the
world. All you need are some basic
equipment and a bit of know-how.
51
Discover the secrets for
when making frame-and-panel
Check our your choices, then
pick the best product to protect
your next project from Mother
Natures worst.
56
Departments
08 /
18
12 Mailbox
74
14 Hot New Tools
Tips & Tricks
WoodRiver Silicone
D
Wd
Wax Polish
woodcraftmagazine.com
See whats out there in the world of
mechanical drawer slides before designing
and building your next cabinet. Find help in
70
Well-Stocked
Shop: Lubricants
Whether greasing the worm gear
tables of your shop machines to
the job in this diverse roundup.
D
Drawer Slides:
The Inside Story
WoodSense: Ipe
JessEm Clear-Cut
Precision Stock
Guide
Frame-andPanel Finesse
April/May 2014
Upgrade For Free!
When you buy a SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw
Make Your Selection
Choose A Free Accessory
Overarm Dust Collection
$199 Value
ice
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h
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Get y
ory!
s
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of Free
OR
)NTEGRATED-OBILE"ASE
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Build yours today!
Did You Know
You can build and price your ideal
SawStop at sawstop.com/build
Buy a Professional Cabinet Saw between March 1 and April 30, 2014,ANDWELLOERYOUTHE
UPGRADEOPTIONOFYOURCHOICE)NTEGRATED-OBILE"ASEOR/VERARM$UST#OLLECTION
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*Overarm Dust Collection requires a DC Blade Guard, which is included with the 3.0HP Professional Cabinet Saw but must be purchased for the 1.75HP model.
SAWSTOPCOMUPGRADE
Cutting In
Shop-Smart
^^
Getting organized in the shop requires
having a lot of specialty storage on hand
for everything that makes a shop work,
from tools to accessories. Once your shop
and time savings increase tenfold. In
mobile assembly cart on page 62. It offers
dedicated storage for glues, assembly
screws, dowels, biscuits, nailers, a drill,
and a driver. Just roll it up to your
assembly table, and youre ready
to fasten project parts together.
This project, however, is just
the tip of the iceberg in what
we have to offer in the way of
workshop storage. Working
with Schiffer Publishing,
LTD, we gathered our very
best shop storage projects
from past issues of Woodcraft
Magazine and placed them in our
most recent book in the Home
Woodworker Series. Titled Home
Workshop Storage, this comprehensive volume includes 21
projects for storing anything from your favorite hand tools
and portable power tools to clamps, lumber, sheet goods, and a
variety of power tool accessories. There are even step-by-step
plans to make base and wall shop cabinets in three styles.
Home Workshop Storage is a companion to our previous book
introduced in 2013, Home Workshop Setup: the Complete Guide.
It is here where we provide woodworkers with a shop planner
So, if you love your shop and you want to love it more with
various improvements and dedicated shop storage, nows your
chance. Order either of the two books by visiting the Woodcraft store
nearest you or www.woodcraft.com, or by calling (800) 535-4482.
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
April/May 2014
s/
/
^
Jim Harrold
Paul Anthony
Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
Art Director
'
Chad McClung
Shayne Hiles
W
Sharon Hambrick
W
John Blackford, Ken Burton, Marlen Kemmet,
Tom Kreger, Bill Sands, Pete Stephano
W
Gary Lombard
^D
Vic Lombard
^
Kim McLaughlin
Kiah Harpool
Circulation Specialists, Inc.
^
U.S. and Canada, $19.97 for one year
Single copy, $5.99
(800) 542-9125
h
tD
4420 Emerson Avenue, Suite A
P.O. Box 7020
Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020
(800) 542-9125 Fax: (304) 420-9840
Email:
Online:
tD (ISSN:1553.2461, USPS 024-953)
is published in January, March, May, July, September
and November and printed in the United States by
Woodcraft Supply, LLC, 4420 Emerson Ave., Suite A,
Parkersburg, WV 26104. Tel: (304) 485-2647. Periodical
Postage paid at Parkersburg, WV, and at additional
mailing offices. Copyright 2014 by Woodcraft
Supply, LLC. All rights reserved. POSTMASTER: Send
address changes to tD, P.O. Box
7020, Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020. Canada Post:
Publications Mail Agreement #40612608
Canada Returns to be sent to Pitney Bowes,
P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2
Printed in the USA
^& Working wood can be dangerous.
your machine owners manuals, using appropriate
guards and safety devices, and maintaining all your
tools properly. Use adequate sight and hearing
W
may be removed from tools shown in photographs
For more information call (855) 923-7326,
visit www.woodcraftfranchise.com,
or email: WoodcraftFranchise@woodcraft.com
When I think about owning my
own business
When woodworking is your passion, and
owning your own business is your goal,
Woodcraft can help you take your skill
and expertise to the retail level.
I think of Woodcraft
Carve a niche for yourself in woodworking with a
Woodcraft retail store. It is difcult to overstate the
importance of a brand name with a reputation for
quality. The Woodcraft name is a tremendous asset.
If you are a woodworker, you already know what
we mean.
Now, after more than 80 years, the Woodcraft name
is even more recognizable than at any other time in
our history. Are you seriously looking for a franchise
opportunity? Are you passionate about woodworking? Would you like to consider opening a store in
your area?
Open the door
to your own
business!
Contact us today to nd out how to
open the door to your Woodcraft
Retail Store!
David & Aaron Sapp
Nashville, TN Franchise Owners
We're building a business that transcends generations.
Having a Woodcraft franchise has helped us grow as a
family while preparing our next generation for success.
F14WD05P
Woodcraft Franchise, LLC
1177 Rosemar Road, P.O. Box 245
Parkersburg, WV 26102-0245
RETAIL FRANCHISE OPPORTUNITIES
Robert Sorby
a cut above
The Robert Sorby
TurnMaster is the first tool in
the world to combine three
cutting edge technologies in
one flexible tool.
Cutters are available in
tungsten carbide, titanium
nitride (TiN) and high speed
steel (HSS) providing
unsurpassed range to
woodturners at every level.
MY CHOICE OF
SHARPENER.
Benefits:
All cutters interchangeable with one tool
Unique* indexable cutting head for three scraping options
Interchangeable cutter head no need to buy whole new tool
Flat underside for stability
High tensile torx screw / key for quick cutter release
With Tormek, I can finally teach
students to efficiently sharpen
their tools. Anyone can learn
how to achieve a superb
cutting edge in 10 seconds!
Fantastic system.
*Patent pending
Professional Woodturner
County Carlow, Ireland
CARBIDE: TITANIUM: HSS
Proudly made in Sheffield, England
Robert Sorby,
Athol Road, Sheffield S8 0PA, England.
Tel: 44+ 114 225 0700
Fax: 44+ 114 225 0710
E-mail: sales@robert-sorby.co.uk
Web site: www.robert-sorby.co.uk
10
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
See the video from Glenns workshop at www.tormek.com !
Lifetime
Warranty
V-DrillGuides
Drill Straight - Every Time!
Can be used on flat surfaces,
round parts and corners.
www.BigGatorTools.com
913-377-2444
NEW FROM FORREST!
Ply Veneer Worker Blade
Designed Specically for Cutting Plywood and Plywood Veneers
This commercial-quality blade is ideal
for rip and cross cutting two-sided
plywood, whether nished or unnished. It is also perfect for cross
cutting solid woods. In fact, theres
no comparable blade on the market
today.
It lasts up to 300% longer between
sharpenings. The PVW is made of
super-strong C-4 micrograin carbide
for extra durability. Like other Forrest blades, it is hand-straightened to
ensure perfect atness and has a side
runout of +/- .001.
The Ply Veneer Worker (PVW) uses
the same high-precision technology
thats behind our popular Woodworker
II blade. Designed for cutting wood
products only
The PVW is superbly engineered. It
features a 10 hook, 70 teeth, and a
high alternate top bevel grind. You
can count on this exceptional product
to give you vibration-free performance
and long life.
The PVWs list price is $23 less
than our Duraline Hi-A/T.
It delivers awless cuts without
splintering or fuzz. You never have
to worry about chip-outs on top or
bottom surfaces. No scoring blade is
needed.
All Forrest blades, including the new
PVW, are made in the U.S.A. and have
a 30-day, money-back guarantee. So www.ForrestBlades.com
order today from your Forrest dealer or 1-800-733-7111
retailer, by going on-line, or by calling (In NJ, call 973-473-5236)
us directly.
2014 Forrest Manufacturing
April/May 2014
Code WC
woodcraftmagazine.com
11
Mailbox
A real keeper
Back in the Oct/Nov 2008
issue, you featured a
pendulum baby cradle. At
the time my daughter was
still in college, but I thought
the cradle was so nice I
should cut the plan out and
save it for someday. Well,
that someday has come,
and I wanted to share with
It was a wonderful design
that resulted in a family
heirloom destined to
outlive me for generations.
Thank you for giving me
the plan for that legacy.
Joe Snyder,
Louisa, Virginia
Long live
your lightbulbs
Regarding the Light Right
story in the Feb/March 2014
issue, I would like to add that
halogen bulbs should not be
touched by bare human hands.
The oil on your skin will leave
a residue on the bulb causing
a hot spot. Over time, this will
reduce the bulbs lifespan.
The solution: when changing
a halogen bulb, wear gloves,
or grab it with a clean cloth.
Andy Barton,
Camarillo, California
Go against the
grain and nd
your groove
Own your own business
Let your passion for wood lead you into
a new business with Furniture Medic, the
worlds largest furniture and wood repair
and restoration franchise.
s Extensive training
s Low initial investment
s Financing available
800-230-2360
furnituremedicfranchise.com
2013 Furniture Medic Limited Partnership. All rights reserved.
12
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
Errata
t
Ive always used free wood I
picked up from some place for
projects. Recently, I bought two
special pieces of wood that were
coated with wax. How do I deal
with removing the wax? I saw
one suggestion about sanding it
off. Simple enough, but do you
have any other suggestions?
Ken Earle, San Carlos, California
Ken, freshly-sawn exotic
hardwoodssuch as ebony and
rosewoodtypically have moisture
levels that range anywhere from
14% to 35% (compared to the
6% to 8% moisture content of
kiln-dried hardwood). Wax is a
simple means of slowing down
the drying process after rough
Wax
milling and during shipping to
prevent splitting and checking.
Wax can affect glues and
skin deep. If youre dealing with a
turning blank, the most effective
way to remove the wax is to shave
it off at the lathe. If youre using
the board for some other type of
project, simply saw or plane off
the coating. (To save wood, you
can scrape off the wax with a card
scraper or hand plane it to expose
bare wood.) Some woodworkers
also use acetone to wipe away
any remaining wax residue.
Jim Harrold, editor-in-chief
errors
/
visit
Chime in
Have comments about the
tD readers?
^
t
Magazine, PO Box 7020,
Parkersburg, WV 26102.
96
pages
From the editors of
Woodcraft Magazine
Everything you need to
develop an organized and
highly efcient workshop.
Call today 1-800-225-1153
or go online at
www.woodcraft.com
April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
13
Hot New Tools
router tables
JessEm Clear-Cut
Precision Stock Guide
By necessity, most woodworkers own an
arsenal of guards and featherboards for their
router tables. The reason for such sizeable
some compromise. Better control often means
JessEms latest accessory combines safety
and control while providing a clear view of your
1
4" T-slot, the one-way feed rollers mount at a
5 inward angle so that they hold stock down
against the table and pull it toward the fence as
its fed past the bit. The rollers have a 234" total
9
16" below the center of the horizontal T-slot
in your fence. Considering its ability to assist
with everything from grooves, to dadoes, to
raised panels, once you attach the jig to your
fence, you might wind up keeping it there.
#158903,
Tester: Peter Collins
&t^
bulls-eye
D'
For those spring and summer
projects that are too big to schlep
to the drill press, heres a jig that
can help you drill perpendicular
drill holes precisely where
in the palm of your hand. This
(ranging in size from 18 to 12")
14
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
housed within an ergonomic
base thats designed to grip onto
stock. To use, simply line up the
centering lines on the sides of
the guide with the crosshairs on
your stock, hold the jig, and drill.
#158941,
Tester: Peter Collins
JessEm photo: Manufacturer; DrillBlock photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert
Hot New Tools
^
WoodRiver Silicone Bench Mats
For those who burn through
rolls of kraft paper when gluing
reusable solution. Flexible and
564
pads and installed
Tester: Kent Harpool
&t^
Vision Is Everything
LANCELOT
Cuts In Any Direction
22 Tooth / 14 Tooth
Three Center Hole Sizes
Tandem Disc Combos
Fits 4 1/2 Angle Grinders
HOLEY GALAHAD
A Window To Your Work
Round Profile / Flat Profile
Coarse, Medium, Fine Grits
Durable Tungsten Carbide
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16
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
Z
Bora ProtecTool, 100ml
Those who use wax on their hand
tools and machine tables appreciate
the way that the coating reduces
friction but accept the fact that
wax doesnt do much to stave off
rust. ProtecTool offers the same
slip but also contains corrosion
inhibitors that provide an extra
chemical barrier against corrosion.
Due to its creamy consistency,
the product goes on like other
waxes; simply wipe it on, wait,
then buff. According to the manufacturer, the
wax hardens upon exposure to air to create
by-side tests, tools treated with ProtecTool
better than those treated with regular wax.
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April/May 2014
17
Tips & Tricks
TOP TIP
Locating light precisely where its needed
at the bench makes doing detail work
much easier, whether its laying out joints,
cutting dovetails, or simply reading wood
grain. This sliding bracket lets me position
my articulating-arm lamp anywhere
along the length of my workbench. The
bracket was designed to grip the edge
of a recessed tool tray, but it can be
the vertical block a tad longer than the
height of your benchs back rail to ensure
and bottom blocks on the tablesaw, initially
work with stock thats oversized in length
for safety. Alternatively, create the lipped
areas by gluing on separate strips of wood.
Dont glue the bottom block as youll want to
remove the bracket when necessary, such as
when laying large panels on your benchtop.
Andy Rae, Asheville, North Carolina
Lip catches top side
of bench tray.
Lip catches
underside of
bench tray.
Trim-head screw
2 2"
1
6"
Drill hole
for lamp
stem.
4"
2"
Share a Slick Tip.
Win Cash or a Prize!
Heres your chance to help someone become a
ETop Tip will receive a t
'. Runners-up will receive
for an non-illustrated
one. Winning entries become the property of
tD. Send your original ideas to:
Tips & Tricks, tDWK
Wtsor email
.
Important: Please include
your phone number,
as an editor will need
to call you if your
18
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
4"
4-20 hanger
bolt
4-20 knob
Plane body
The American Woodshop
2
magnet
with Scott & Suzy Phillips
Glue blade slot
Stock block
Shop-made
Over the years, I have replaced many of the thin
stock blades in my vintage hand planes with
modern aftermarket blades. Looking for a way to
put an old blade to good use, I combined it with a
handy tool for various trimming chores and for
removing dried glue at intersecting project parts.
To make a plane like this, begin with a block of
wood about 1" thick, exactly as wide as the blade,
and about 12" shorter. Bevel the front half of the
block down to about 38" for a good grip, and ease
the edges for comfort. Shape a bit of hardwood to
plug in place to the underside of the body, and then
epoxying a 12
the surface of the block to hold the blade in place.
Alejandro Balbis, Longueuil, Quebec
Season 21 American Originals
Freeform Designs
& Hand Skill Solutions
Presented by - WBGU
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WBGU Public Television presents
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Woodshop American Originals.
Season 21 shares woodworking tips
for every skill level. Techniques include:
turning, joinery, tool tune-ups, making jigs,
bench building, and furnituremaking!
Get your tools out!
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The American Woodshop
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2014 Sylvan Tool Works, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Picture this jig
Have you ever pulled out a jig that you havent
used in a while and realized that you dont entirely
remember how to set it up or use it? Me, too. To
prevent that, Ive added a new tool to my shopan
inexpensive digital camera. After setting up a
jig and any attendant tools, I take a few
relevant snapshots, print them out, and
tape them to the jig and/or stash the images
in a jig setup folder for future reference.
This approach works well as long as I can
remember where I keep the camera.
Robert Lopez, Los Angeles, California
/D
April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
19
Tips & Tricks
Featherboard
Panel-raising guard
Success at raising panels on the router
The two router table accessories that
throughout the cuts, ensuring a smooth
38
12
20
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
,
guard extends out
over the bit in front
of the featherboard.
The 38
Paul Anthony, senior editor
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cutting, the molding in the jig is cut in the same alignment
as it is installed on the wall. With just one base unit and a
reversible insert, the jig enables woodworkers to produce
interior and exterior corner joints for the three most common
crown molding spring angles 38, 45 and 52 degrees. The
Crown King is designed to produce ceiling and wall corner
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April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
21
Tips & d
d
W
Baseboard
Ball-drilling jig
For a recent project, I needed to
drill accurately centered holes
into some wooden balls I had
purchased, so I came up with
this jig to hold them securely on
the drill press. To make the jig,
board from a short piece of stock
whose thickness approaches the
radius of the ball to be drilled.
Cut a 14" slot in it, and screw it to
a baseboard thats long enough
to span your drill press table.
Then drill a hole through the
upper board using a holesaw.
(I used a Vermont American
#18401 adjustable-diameter
holesaw, which allows slight
22
woodcraftmagazine.com
upsizing to accommodate the
typical variance of wooden balls
from their nominal diameters.)
drill press with a standard twist
bit whose diameter matches
that of your holesaws pilot bit.
Lower the bit into the pilot hole
in the baseboard to center the
jig under the drill chuck. After
clamping the baseboard to the
table in this position, switch out
the bit with the one youll use
to drill the ball, and pinch a ball
in the jig by clamping across
the slot. Now youre ready to
drill a perfectly centered hole.
John Hutchinson, Delaware, Ohio
April/May 2014
The perfect way to cut
logs the traditional way.
The Lynx saw range
Available at Woodcraft
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April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
23
Arts & Crafts
Picture Frame
Keep a loved one close at hand
with this wall hanging or stand.
his frame, with its lap
joint construction, features
several signature elements
from the Arts & Crafts era.
They include the overhanging
beveled cap, tapered stiles,
decorative square buttons,
and quartersawn white oak.
Sized for a 57" photo or piece
of art, you can build it to stand
on its own or hang on a wall.
By Marlen Kemmet
Start with the
frame members
1 Cut the stiles (A), bottom
rail (B), and top rail (C) to the
sizes listed in the Cut List.
Lay out the 14"-deep rabbets
and dadoes on the back face
of each stile (A), using the
dimensions in Figure 1. Install
a dado set in your tablesaw,
along with a miter gauge,
auxiliary fence, and stop. Raise
the dado set 14", and make a test
cut in 34"-thick scrap to verify
the depth. Now, cut rabbets
and dadoes in the stiles, setting
the stop as needed. Cut the
mating 14"-deep rabbets on
the front faces of the top and
lap joints. The back surfaces
of the mating parts should be
Glue and clamp the
rails (B, C) to the stiles (A),
checking for square. Wipe off
any glue squeeze-out with
a clean, moistened rag.
Overall dimensions: 838"w 178"d 1038"h
24
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
Figure 1: Frame Exploded View
4"
Side View
30
112"
8"
4"-deep rabbets
>
sawtooth
hanger here.
d
8" rabbet, 14" deep
on back edge
of opening
Install turn
Hardboard
Glass
2"
4"-deep
dado
Protrude
by 18".
4"
8"
2"
1
4 14 12
w/116" bevels at one end
4"
2"
4 4 8" deep
4 At the router table using a
rabbeting bit, rout a 38" rabbet
" deep along the back inside
edge of the frame, as shown in
Photo A. This is for housing the
glass pane, photo, and backing.
Rout the rabbet in two passes to
minimize chip-out. The rabbeted
opening is sized 18" larger
than a 57" photo. Square the
rabbeted corners with a chisel.
Mark the locations of the
button mortises. Then, at the
drill press, drill a 316" hole 38"
deep at each hole center. For an
equal protrusion of the buttons
later, keep the mortised depths
consistent by using the tools
depth stop. Square the round
openings with a chisel (Photo B).
1
4
A
Rout a rabbet along the back face of the frame, moving
Opening photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Project photos: William Hopkins
April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
25
prepare it for a 30 cut. With the
blade raised and angled at 30
from vertical, slide the fence
over 14" from it. Make Cut 1
and Cut 2, shown in Figure 2,
safety. Tilt the blade to vertical,
adjust the fence 178" from it, and
rip the cap to width (Cut 3).
Cut a 18"-thick hardboard
the rabbeted opening.
Drill four 116" pilot holes in the
back of the frame for mounting
the turn buttons around the
rabbeted opening. (I located
the holes 38" from the rabbet.)
Sand the frame (A/B/C)
and cap (D) through 220 grit.
Center, glue, and clamp the cap
to the top edge of the frame
To use the frame for tabletop
display, cut the support (E). Start
with a 12 6 612" workpiece for
safety. Install a zero-clearance
insert, and angle your tablesaw
blade 30 from vertical. Adjust
2
3
B
Use a 14
6 Referring to Figure 1, mark
the tapered outside edges of the
frame, and cut the taper using
a bandsaw. Cut just outside
the line, and then sand to the
line to remove saw marks.
Add the cap, support,
1 At the tablesaw, cut a "-thick
3
5
8
oak workpiece to 6 9 "
for the cap (D). Install a
zero-clearance insert, and
Figure 2: ^^
Cap
(Begin w/34 6 958
Cut 3: Rip cap to width.
Cut 2: Chamfer edge at 30.
^
(Begin w/1 6 61
Cut 1: Chamfer
4"
ends at 30.
Cut 3: Miter
Cut 2: Bevel-rip
Cut 1: Chamfer
edge at 30.
8"
26
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
the fence 18" from the blade.
With the workpiece on edge and
pushblock to chamfer the
support (Cut 1 in Figure 2).
Angle the blade 20 from vertical.
Move the fence 214" from it, and,
W
table, bevel-rip the supports
opposite edge (Cut 2). (See
Side View in
Figure 1.) Miter-cut the ends
of the support at 10 (Cut 3).
Carefully locate and glue
the support (E) in place so the
frame leans down at 20. (I used
masking tape to hold the piece in
place.) For a wall-mounted frame,
C
fasten in place a sawtooth picture
h
Center it on the top rail (C).
Finish-sand and stain the
frame. (I used General Finishes
to stand proud of the frame
Black Cherry thinned 30% with
up a stop for consistent button
surface 18". Add the turn buttons
water. I then applied three coats
lengths.) Glue the buttons in
to the back of the frame. Insert
of Watco Lacquer, Satin, Spray.)
place. The buttons are sized
the glass, picture, and back.
To create the buttons (G), rip
a strip of walnut to 14 14 8".
Picture Frame Cut List
Part
Thickness Width Length
Qty. Matl
3
ends in the square mortises.
4"
A*
^
2"
958"
2
QWO
1
1
3
Lightly bevel-sand four 45
2"
B*
1 2"
8 4"
1
QWO
1
chamfers on the ends of the
2"
C
Top rail
114"
838"
1
QWO
3
strip, as shown in Photo C.
4"
D*
Cap
178"
958"
1
QWO
1
Crosscut a 12"-long button
2"
E*
Support
218"
6"
1
QWO
1
1
1
from each end of the strip, and
8"
F
Back
5 2"
7 2"
1
HBD
1
1
1
repeat for all six buttons. (I used
4"
4"
2"
6
W
G*
the Olson 35-231 saw and mini/
miter box set, but any miter box
Materials: QWO = Quartersawn White Oak, HDB = Hardboard, W = Walnut
Hardware/Supplies: (1) Sawtooth picture frame hanger, picture frame glass.
About Our Author
A founding member of the
San Diego Woodworking
D<
career in woodworking and
He likes building furniture and
home accents in the Greene
'
/
/DW
Convenience-PLUS BUYING GUIDE
1.
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General Finishes Wood Stain, Water Based,
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April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
27
QUALITY WOODWORKING TOOLS s
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so each blank has its own unique surface pattern and razor-sharp edge. Designed with the professional chef
in mind, these knife kits are a perfect gift for anyone who enjoys cooking. The bread knife is constructed
from Japanese high carbon stainless steel (HRC 54 -56) and features a granton edge (nonstick scallops) to
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For A Free Catalog Or To Find Your Local Woodcraft Store, Visit woodcraft.com Or Call 800-225-1153. 14WD05P3
For Information On Woodcraft Retail Franchise Opportunities, Visit woodcraftfranchise.com
Photographing
Your Projects
Show your work at its best.
By John Blackford and Paul Anthony
art of the satisfaction of
working wood is showing off
your projects. In this Internet
age of social media, that often
means photographing your work
and posting it on Facebook,
Google Plus, Flickr, or your own
photo blog. If youre an aspiring
professional, good photos can
also serve as exhibit entries or
strong portfolio material to help
sell your work. So if you count
a camera among your tools,
why not put it to its best use?
If youve felt that your photos
dont measure up to the quality
of your woodworking, or if you
have even avoided the attempt
entirely, take heart. Good
photos result from suitable
lighting and composition
more than costly gear.
Armed with your camera,
some relatively inexpensive
lighting equipment, and the
here, you can produce photos
that do your projects proud.
The investment? Well, aside from
your camera, a basic selection
of decent gear can be aquired
respectable shop machine. You
can get started for less, as well
discuss, but you have to invest
a few bucks to get good shots.
A rudimentary starter setup
April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
29
The Necessary Gear
Use a camera tripod for steady
&
D
^
d/
Camera and tripod
enormous selection of strobe
units (Photo B
Photo C
Hot lightingusing bulbs as
strong as 500 wattsis less
Photo D
much light, those with at least
(Photo E
Photo C
You can use any camera to shoot
your work, ranging from a DSLR
like the one shown in Photo A,
Z
30
>
woodcraftmagazine.com
&>
April/May 2014
>^
One light and a
board
One light
Poster
board
Project
Project
The most basic setup
consists of a single light
the project. This has limited
Umbrella
Camera
consists of a single light aided by
Umbrella
Camera
Two lights
Two lights and a
board
Poster
board
Project
One of the best
setups uses two
and intensity
allows greater
Camera
Project
Two lights plus a
many challenging
arrangements
the two main lights
fail to reach.
Camera
Umbrella
Umbrella
Umbrella
For best results, place a light on
each side of the camera, aiming
each toward the project at about
90 to the other light. Initially,
set one strobe twice as bright
as the other. (If using hot lights,
use a 250-watt bulb in one
light and a 500-watt bulb in the
other.) This will create enough
shadow to give the project
some depth while avoiding
You can move the lights
around and adjust brightness
to emphasize important details
such as joinery in the workor
Photos: John Blackford, Paul Anthony
illuminate either the background
or areas that are too dark. Other
options include combining a
single light with secondary
illumination bounced off a white
Another reason to use
avoid the harsh, unattractive
shadows produced by a very
small light source such as the
bulb itself. By bouncing the
(See photo, page 32), shooting
through a white translucent
umbrella, or using a soft box,
you effectively increase the size
Umbrella
of the light source and soften
shadows in the process. A soft
box holds the lamp within dark
material and faced with diffusion
fabric. (See photos above.)
Note that the size of a light is
relative to its distance from the
subject. Just as moving a light
forward boosts illumination,
it also increases the effective
size of the light. Use this to
your advantage. For example,
to alleviate harsh shadows,
try moving the lights closer
even a small light can cast
soft shadows when close in.
April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
31
W
and light control
At an aperture of f4, the depth of
which you may or may not want.
>
Light size affects the type of
shadow. A small light produces
sharp shadows and an abrupt
transition from light to dark.
(See the photo below left).
A larger light produces soft
shadows and a smoother
transition (below right).
As shown in the diagram at
equal to the square of its
distance; therefore, doubling the
distance yields only a quarter
of the light (two f-stops).
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
Y
in 116
Lamp
8' (4Y)
4' (2Y)
2' (Y)
/
(X)
Proper
d
32
The size of the lens opening
(the aperture) affects both
control. Smaller apertures
(higher numbers) produce
36" from a 50mm lens at f4 is
1.89", while at f11 its 5.38".
admits twice as much light.
/
(14 X)
f22
f16
f11
/
(116 X)
f8
f5.6
f4
f2.8
d
d
d
White balance
work well enough. When shooting
RAW format (which captures all
color adjustments must be made
during computer processing
afterward. That's because the
camera's white balance settings
are bypassed in RAW format.
Accurately capturing in photos
the warm, inviting colors of the
woods you use in your projects
can be a challenge. When
shooting JPEG images, setting
your camera's white balance for
whatever light youre using (such
Exposure
&>
Tip Alert
h
&>
Exposure refers to the amount
of light the camera records. A
properly exposed photowhich
will yield similar tones to the
subjectresults from capturing
the correct amount of light. You
can adjust exposure by changing
the intensity of your lights, their
distance from the project, the
or the size of the aperture. With
hot lights, you can also vary the
Underexposure. The photo
Proper Exposure.d
Overexposure.d
April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
33
^^d
Use the cameras
histogram to ensure
histogram is located center-right.
Successful photography depends
on following an organized
approacheven though you
may end up varying the
plan as you proceed. Follow
these general guidelines to
produce a nicely composed,
well-exposed photo, such as
the one of this small table.
Check the focus by zooming in
on your cameras LCD screen to
near and far edges. If blurry, use
smaller f-stops such as f11 or f16.
34
woodcraftmagazine.com
&
yielding a clear, well-lit photo
t
1 Pull your seamless paper down 4 Take a test shot with the
onto your staging to create a
very gradual roll-off at its rear
edge. Place your project near the
center and well away from the
paper wall. Then position the
piece and camera in tandem for
best composition. In the case of
a rectilinear piece like this table,
angle it to indicate its depth, and
raise the camera enough to show
the table top without featuring it.
2 Position the main light to
illuminate the broadest forward
surface of the project, and
shadows cast by the main light.
3 Adjust the main light to
illuminate the main surfaces
without washing out detail. If
necessary, reposition it to create
on the bead at the bottom of this
light to between half and threequarters of the main's intensity.
April/May 2014
camera set at f8 and ISO 100 to
inset in Photo A indicates proper
exposure. But we can do better.
(The widest, tallest section of
the histogram represents the
most prominent visual data.) If
the image is too dark, open the
camera aperture one stop (from
f8 to f5.6) to double the amount
of light recorded. If the image is
too light, close the aperture one
stop to f11. As you change the
d
&
match in size in both eyes.
Detail Shots
E
&
^
aperture, the peak portion of the
histogram will shift left or right.
Adjust exposure to shift the bulk
of the histogram about two-thirds
to the right without any clipping
against the edges. When using
strobes, shutter speed changes
won't help; just leave the shutter
set to the synchronization speed
shown in your camera manual.
5 Initially focus about one-third
of the way into the depth of your
project. Placing the center point
of your autofocus system on
that spot will generally produce
the best overall sharpness.
After taking a shot, zoom in on
the spot using the LCD panel
if necessary. Check the front
and back edges of the table for
/
/
sharpness (see the photo at far
left, opposite), and reduce the
aperture (to a higher number) if
6 Take another test shot, and
tweak the light balance, focus,
and composition as needed. If
shadows crawl up the vertical
part of the background, do
one of the following: Raise the
lights, move the project closer
light to wash out the shadow.
7 If the project itself still
has undesirably dim areas,
however necessary to bounce
light into those spaces.
8 At this point, you should be
pretty close to home. Take one
Sources
z
d,
W
<,
&
K
t
it for focus, composition,
proper exposure, and any
odd shadows or highlights
that may need correction. (To
really scrutinize the picture,
temporarily slip the memory
card into a computer for
viewing on a larger screen.)
Photo B shows the completed
photograph of our example. The
table is attractively positioned,
in focus, accurately exposed,
and well lit with nice contrast
and no undesirable shadows
or distracting elements.
About Our Authors
:
,
E
^W
,
April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
35
Octagonal
Picnic Table
By Bill Sands
amily members and friends
will enjoy the good times around
this accommodating outdoor
project that seats up to eight
happy diners. Theres nothing
tricky about the construction.
Plugged exterior-grade screws
and waterproof glue bond the
2-by parts together, guaranteeing
years of use. A hole at the
tabletops center allows you
to insert an umbrella to shield
diners from intense sunlight.
The chevron-shaped benches
attached to the cross supports
allow for easy-access seating,
unlike standard picnic table
designs, which force you to climb
over the seats to sit down. For
plans for the complementary
lazy Susan, see page 44.
Note: To protect against rot
and insects, I used western
red cedar. Other outdoor wood
choices include redwood, cypress,
and pressure-treated pine.
Overall dimensions: 9134"w 29"h
36
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
Figure 1: Wds
112
rounded over
8
Round over edge.
#8 212"
ext. screw
Notch Detail
>
holes 34" in
from edges.
#20 biscuits
#8 3" ext. screw
#8 212" ext.
Notch (to match
412"
#8 3" ext. screw
134"
Round over edge.
#8 3" ext. screws
ends at 6712.
Align leg to front
edge of base.
Figure 2: Ws
#8 3" ext. screws
6712
6712
67 2
1
6712
^
6"
20"
6712
6712
60
60
67 2
1
45
W:K/D
45
45
45
April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
37
Base line
Use a backsaw to cut the notch shoulders, guiding
Build the cross frames
Note: Before building, take a
minute to inspect your stock
and select the best boards for
each section. Any chips, knots,
or bad spots should be kept
on the underside faces or cut
out when laying out parts. Any
crowned faces should face up
once fastened in place to better
shed water. The most visible
parts, or those that will be in
contact with arms and legs, must
be smooth and splinter free.
Now, working with either
dimensional lumber or thicker
h
stock that you joint and plane
to the part thicknesses in the
Cut List, crosscut the left and
right seat frame parts (A) and
left and right tabletop frame
parts (B) to length. Also, cut
the eight spacers (C) to size.
(See Figure 1 for reference.)
Lay out the centered notches
on both faces of the seat frame
parts (A) and tabletop frame parts
(B), where shown in the Detail
in Figure 1. (Here, measure
the thickness of the combined
frame parts and spacer [C]
when sandwiched together for
the notch widths. The mating
the shoulder cuts as shown in
Photo A. Then make multiple cuts
between the shoulder cuts to the
baseline of the notch. Cut out the
waste with a chisel and mallet.
Repeat for the other notches.
At the mitersaw, bevel-cut
the ends of the left and right
seat frame parts (A) and left
and right tabletop frame parts
(B) at 6712, referring to Figure 1
for the bevel orientations.
as a workbench, group the left
and right frame parts (A) and the
left and right frame parts (B),
Tip Alert
^
^
C
d
D
38
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
As seen in Photo C, I cut a
/
drilled two 116
h
/
/
didnt contact each other.
s
to bench
^
d
t
orienting each group with their
notches up. Align the part ends,
and clamp them together and
to the workbench. Clean up the
notches, as shown in Photo B.
On a level surface, testassemble the interlocking seat
(A) and table (B) cross frames,
in Figure 2 and as shown
in Photo C. Disassemble.
Use exterior glue in all of the
joints. Reassemble the frame
parts. Mark the screw-hole
locations, and drill counterbored
pilot holes. Starting at the mating
notch joints, drive four exteriorgrade 3" screws vertically to join
the seat and table frame pieces (A
and B). Drive 3" screws through
the frame sides and into spacers
(C). Repeat for all spacer joints.
d
on the table leg. This will come
into play in Step 4 and again
when attaching the seat cross
frame later. Similarly, strike lines
on the remaining legs. Continue
the lines across the edges and
opposite faces of the table legs.
As shown in Photo E, fasten
a seat base (E) to two seat legs
(F) using three 3" screws per
leg driven into counterbored
holes. Note that the seat legs
of the seat bases, as shown
in Figure 1. Repeat for all
four seat base assemblies.
Cut the parts and
assemble the seat bases
4 Make a pair of angled
seat base spacers, as shown in
Figure 2. Next, clamp a table
leg (D) in your bench vise with
the top end down, aligning the
reference lines with the surface
of your benchtop. Now, using the
spacers, fasten a seat base/seat
legs assembly (E/F) to the bottom
end of the leg with 3" screws and
exterior glue, as shown in Photo F.
Mark and counterbore three
centered holes in the joining
parts and drive the screws.
Repeat to make the remaining
three base assemblies (D/E/F).
1 Using 1 "-thick 5 "1
wide stock, cut the table legs
(D), seat bases (E), and seat
legs (F) to length and at the
angles shown in Figure 2.
Place a seat leg (F) on a table
leg (D) aligning the bottom ends
using a backstop, as shown in
Photo D. Strike a reference line
F
April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
39
Alignment stop
Alignment stop
Set aside the base assembly with its alignment
stops while spreading glue on the hard-to
placing a straightedge across the top ends of the
seat legs and top edges of the seat frames.
5 Cut eight seat cleats (G) to size, 2 Clamp a pair of scrap
3 Slide the base assembly (D/E/
and glue and screw them with
212" screws to the inside faces of
the seat legs (F). Extend them 78"
beyond the outside edges of the
legs, and make their top edges
F/G) into place, as shown in
Photo H. Once all the key parts
align, drill counterbored holes
for 3" screws. Repeat the process
for attaching the remaining
base assemblies to the seat
frames cross assembly (A/C).
Add the base assemblies
to the seat cross frames
Strike lines 1334" to strike
in from the ends across the
top edges of the seat cross
frames assembly (A/C). This
line tells where the table legs
(F) intersect the top edges of
the seat frames assembly.
alignment stops along the top of
the reference lines on the sides
of the base assembly (D/E/F/G)
in place between the seat frames
(A), aligning the reference lines
and resting the stops on the
top edges of the frames. Next,
mark the screw locations on the
outside face of one seat frame.
(As before, I made and used a
plywood marking jig for this.)
Slide the base assembly out of the
way, and apply glue in the base
assembly/seat frames mating
area, as shown in Photo G.
Figure 3: Biscuit Slot Marking Jig
Fence
5
8 58 10"
glued or screwed in place
Form the tabletop
perimeter frames
1 Set up your mitersaw to
2212 (once cut, the miter angle
of the board will be 6712).
Verify the angle with a test
cut. Using a stop to establish
consistent lengths, angle-cut the
top perimeter boards (H) and
the bottom perimeter boards
(I) to length. See Figure 2.
Using a square, or with a shopmade marking jig as shown in
Figure 3 and Photo I, mark the
biscuit locations on the ends of
the perimeter boards (H, I). Note:
All top perimeter boards receive
biscuit slots; only the mating
ends of the bottom perimeter
board pairs receive slots.
Adhere a 38"-thick spacer to
your biscuit jointer with doublefaced tape, and cut biscuit
slots that are centered on the
thickness of the top and bottom
Base
8 314 10"
40
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
Centered slot
8" thick spacer
Biscuit slot
marking jig
Hold the biscuit marking jig fence along the
outside edge of the perimeter boards to mark
consistent biscuit slot centers with a pencil.
perimeter boards (H, I). Align
the centerline of the tool with
the marks made in Step 2. Cut
the slots, as shown in Photo J.
Build the perimeter frames
assembly jig in Figure 4 using
scrap plywood and solid stock.
Drill pocket holes on
the bottom faces of the top
perimeter boards (H) at the
ends to fortify the biscuit joints
and to snug up the pieces during
assembly. Position the holes at
least 34" in from the edges. Be
sure the hole locations do not
cause the screws to exit the
edges of the perimeter boards.
surface, apply glue in the slots,
insert the biscuits, and place
two top perimeter pieces bottom
faces up in the assembly jig.
Drive the pocket screws to snug
the joint. Move the assembly
and fasten another perimeter
board, as shown in Photo K. Fit
t
place, align the biscuit joiner centerline with
the mark, and plunge-cut the slot.
a spacer under the cantilevered
end of the assembly to keep
it level. Add a fourth board to
make one-half of the octagonal
top perimeter frame. Build the
other half. Let the glue set up.
Drill two pocket holes on the
bottom faces of the non-mating
ends of the bottom perimeter
boards making up the four
chevron-like frame sets. Use
the assembly jig to glue up the
sets. Set the four frame sets
aside to let the glue cure.
Next, glue and screw the two
half frames together to make
the octagonal top perimeter
frame. (I used a strap clamp
to help tighten one half frame
against the other.) After the
glue sets up, remove the strap.
1 With the octagonal perimeter
frame (H) top face down on a
large assembly surface, place the
tabletop cross frames assembly
(B/C) on the octagons bottom
face. Insert and clamp scrap
112"-thick leg spacers between
the tabletop frame parts to
2" thick spacer
d
packing tape or coat of wax
to the jig to keep the parts
Perimeter frames
t
clamped to its fence, glue and screw the top perimeter boards end to end.
April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
41
Figure 4: Perimeter Frames Assembly Jig
Fence
112 112 1534"
Base
1
2 13 30"
2212
38
1
#8 12
Photo L
Photo M1
Cut and install the
tabletop boards
1
Cut ListFigure 2
Add the base and seats
1
Leg spacer
112"-thick
leg spacer
Check the distance from the octagons corners to
the ends of the tabletop cross frames to center
z
42
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
t
top cross frames assembly and octagon.
the center of the tabletop cross
frames opening on the bottom
face of the center tabletop
board (L). Drill a small pilot hole
through the board. Next, saw a
112 112 36" piece of scrap.
Apply glue on the inside faces
of the ends of the table frames
(B/C). Carefully lift the base
assembly, turn it upside down,
the (B) members of table
frames. Insert the 112"-square
piece into the center openings
of the frames to align the seat
frames over the table frames.
Remove the 112" piece. Now,
counterbore holes, and drive 3"
screws to secure the base to the
tabletop, as shown in Photo N.
octagonal picnic table right side
Using a 112
the umbrella hole, guiding on the
pilot hole drilled in Step 1.
Lay out the seat parts (M, N)
to the sizes in the Cut List
Convenience-PLUS
BUYING GUIDE
1.
#153577
$2.75
D
2.
#142693
$8.99
W,W
3.
4.
#85O13
Drill counterbored pilot holes through the table frames and into
plane or sand them even.
Sand the octagonal picnic
table to 180 grit. Using a 14"radius round-over bit in a
handheld router, round over the
umbrella opening and all exposed
seat and table edges. Wipe the
sprayed on Sikkens Cetol SRD.)
and as shown in Figure 2. Cut
same spacing for the tabletop
boards, fasten the seat parts
G), using glue and 212" screws
in counterbored holes.
Cut plugs from cedar scrap.
Then, glue the plugs in place
to cover up the hardware.
Octagonal Picnic Table Cut List
Part
Thickness
Width Length
Qty. Matl
>
112"
312"
88316"
>
1 2"
3 2"
48"
Frame spacers
1 2"
3 2"
3 2"
Table legs
112"
512"
3318"
Seat bases
1 2"
5 2"
24"
Seat legs
1 2"
5 2"
14"
Seat cleats
112"
112"
9"
$5.29
Top perimeter boards
112"
512"
21516"
Router Fence Dust
&12"
1 2"
5 2"
16 8"
#148483
J*
Outside tabletop boards
112"
512"
2812"
K*
Outside adjacent tabletop
boards
112"
512"
391516"
Center tabletop boards
112"
512"
4012"
K
boards
112"
512"
26"
/
112"
512"
2358"
$20.99
<K^
#8 212
t
woodcraft.com
Prices subject to change without notice.
4.
E
$54.99
^^Z
d
Above item is available at amazon.com. Price
subject to change without notice.
/^
Materials: C = Cedar
Hardware/Supplies: #8 212" and #8 3" exterior-grade screws;
''
April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
43
Hardworking
Lazy Susan
Give your outdoor dining table a new spin.
By Bill Sands
Overall dimensions: 1912"w 1912"d 114"h
assing the ketchup and
mustard around the picnic
table just got a whole lot easier
with this table topper. Glue
and splines hold the perimeter
of the table frame together. A
lazy Susan bearing hidden in
a channel underneath allows
for the rotation, while a hole
in the center of the assembly
accommodates an umbrella
shaft. With the stock and
bearing on hand, you can build
the piece in an afternoon.
Make the perimeter frame
1 Starting with an 8'-long
cedar 26 or a piece of 6/4
cedar of similar length and
width, mill the wood to 114"
44
woodcraftmagazine.com
thick by 312" wide for the
perimeter frame pieces (A).
Install a 34"-wide dado set in
your tablesaw, and raise it 34"
above the table. Adjust the fence
1" from the dado set, and begin
cutting a 178"-wide channel, 34"
deep, on one face of the board.
Adjust the fence as necessary to
achieve the channels full width.
(This will be the bottom face;
the edge in contact with the
fence will be the outside edge.)
Using a 14" dado set and a
it, cut a 14" rabbet, 34" deep along
the top face and inside edge of the
board, where shown in Figure 1.
Adjust your mitersaw to
the right to cut at 6712 (or
April/May 2014
2212, depending on your saws
settings). Set up a 4"-wide
stopblock on the right side of the
blade for an 8"-long cut to create
the trapezoids making up the
perimeter frame. Now, make a
test cut on a 312"-wide piece of
scrap. Swing the blade to 6712
to the left. Slide the test piece
against the stop and make the
cut. Verify the angles and length.
Next, set the blade to 6712 right,
right end of the perimeter board
stock. Set the blade to 6712 to
the left, slide the mitered end of
the board to the stop, and cut the
Repeat the procedure to cut the
remaining seven frame pieces.
Using an exterior-grade glue
up the perimeter frame pieces
(A) to form an octagon, clamping
with a strap clamp. Let the glue
set up and remove the strap.
Make the slot-cutting jig in
Figure 2 for your tablesaw using
scrap 34" MDF or plywood. Shape
a pair of add-on fences to suit
the octagonal frame, and adhere
them to the jigs tall fence using
double-faced tape. Install a saw
bottomed kerf, and raise the blade
to cut 34"-deep into the corners of
the octagonal frame. Adjust the
saw fence to center the slot cuts
in the edge of the frame. Now,
place the frame on the jig, clamp
slot. Similarly, cut the remaining
slots at each perimeter joint.
Resaw enough 1"-wide spline
(I used walnut for contrast.)
Cut the pieces to length, work
glue into the slots with a thin
applicator, and tap the splines in
place. After the glue sets, trim
edges of the octagonal frame.
Add the tabletop boards,
stabilizer, and bearing
Figure 1: >^s
1 Cut enough "-thick stock
3
1
8
to 3 " wide for the outside
tabletop boards (B) and
inside tabletop boards (C).
of the outside tabletop boards (B)
at 6712
snugly against the inside edges of
the octagonal frame. Fit the pieces
in place, as shown in Figure 1.
Measure the distance between
the outside tabletop boards
(B). Subtract from this number
the combined widths of the
two inside tabletop boards (C).
Divide the remainder by three
for the spacing between the
tabletop boards once in place.
Cut the inside tabletop
boards (C) to length. Using the
established spacing, set the
boards on the octagonal frame
opening parallel to the outside
tabletop boards (B), and mark
corners of the tabletop boards,
and pin (or clamp) all the pieces
in place in the frames rabbet.
Cut the octagonal stabilizer (D)
to the size in the Cut List. Center
and glue it in place, orienting the
grain at a 45 angle to the grain
direction of the tabletop boards.
Drill a centered 112" hole for
an umbrella shaft in the lazy
Susan assembly (A/B/C/D).
With a 14" radius round-over
bit in a router table or handheld
router, round over the edges of
the lazy Susan and the 112" hole.
Avoid letting the bearing dip
into the gap between the boards.
Sand the assembly through 220
(I used Sikkens Cetol SRD.)
Center the bearing in the
channel in part A, and screw
it in place. The rubber feet
extend below the assembly.
112
4
434
834
1 8 4
114
Figure 2: ^:
^
3
4
&
4
'
31213
414
6
7
2212
ED
Lazy Susan Cut List
Part
W
K
/
K
A
B
C
D
Thickness
114"
3
4"
3
4"
3
4"
Width
312"
18"
18"
12"
Length
8"
1134"
13"
512"
Qty.
8
2
2
1
Matl
C
C
C
C
Materials:
Hardware/Supplies:14''
Convenience-PLUS BUYING GUIDE
,>^1316516
twoodcraft.com
W
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April/May 2014
45
Clear Outdoor
Finishes
Weather will eventually win,
but heres how to play good defense.
By Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
46
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
n truth, the great outdoors isnt
that great for wood. Sunlight
(UV radiation), moisture, plus
a host of insects and microbes
are all dead-set on turning your
project back into the dirt from
whence it came. Paint provides
the best defense; unfortunately,
the pigments that protect also
cover up the woods grain and
your workmanship. If you want
the woodand your workto shine
days isnt as clear as it once was.
In addition to a host of familiar
offerings, advanced chemistry
restrictions) has created a bunch of
new options. Choice can be a good
thing, but with so many products
silently sitting side-by-side on the
store shelf, its easy to get confused.
To help you make sense of your
options, Ive divided outdoor clear
and provided examples to illustrate
the range of products within each
group. Additionally, Ive included
two outside of the box products
that deserve consideration.
next project, start by comparing
the major differences, such as
application ease and service
life, and select a category. Next,
check the attributes within each
subcategory, and pick a winner.
(To make quick sense of the facts,
skip ahead to the chart on p. 50.)
This shouldnt come as a surprise,
but eventually, weather will win.
That said, if you choose the right
product and do what it takes to keep
up its defenses, you can help your
project hold out for many years.
Varnishes
Pros:
>
K
hs
Cons:
^
/
Whether the can says spar
(varnishes are a traditional
safe to assume that the product
enough to withstand outdoor
conditions and to protect against
moisture and UV radiation.
Varnishes are intended to be
built up to create thick physical
Alkyd
(Oil-Based) Varnishes
Traditional oil-based varnishes
lead the pack in durability. Most
can hold their own for 2 to 3
years before they look chalky.
involves scuff-sanding the
topcoat and applying a fresh coat.
maintenance. If damage makes
need to completely strip the
project and start from scratch.
With a top-quality natural
does take time. Factoring in the
drying times and the requisite
and a few more days before
the project is ready for use.
Acrylic
(Water-Based) Varnishes
As with most water-based
not raise the grain. In terms
varnishes are whiter than
neither had the color-sapping
acrylics. The color clarity also
allows you the ability to use
this varnish as a protective
topcoat on painted projects.
no further. Acrylics cure
considerably faster than oilbased varnishes and quicker than
I could apply a smooth coat of
acrylic in roughly half the time
it took to brush out and tip off
The biggest surprise was how
much easier acrylics were to
corn up when scuff-sanding
that you sand a lot to correct
be the reason to try acrylic.
Whether acrylics resist
better than alkyds remains
KWW>,>
plenty of reasons why you
should give acrylics a try.
April/May 2014
47
Oils
Pros:
&
No sanding required between coats
Finish will not chip or peel
Cons:
d
hs
Most oils cannot be built up
&
and easy to apply and provide the most natural feel and
appearance. Unfortunately, in comparison to varnishes, these
Mother Nature. And because most oils cure so soft, you cant
expect multiple coats to create a thicker, more durable defense.
As a group, oils are the most easily misunderstood because
the products have completely different makeups. To understand
your choices, it helps to divide this category into subgroups:
hardening, oil/varnish blends, and polymerized oils.
Hardening Oils
Tung oil is one of the few
naturally-hardening oils that
is suitable for outdoor use. To
use, simply wipe it on, wait, and
then wipe off, and wait (each
coat requires a day or two to
tung oil offers a decent defense
against moisture; however,
because it lacks UV inhibitors,
projects exposed to sunlight
will eventually turn grey.
Made from a blend of natural
oils (including linseed), Odies Oxi
Oil is solvent-free and nontoxic.
Oil/Varnish Blends
In theory, oil/varnish blends
combine the best of both worlds.
to apply (with a brush, rag, or
garden sprayer) than heavierbodied varnishes. The resins
offer additional protection
against moisture and abrasion.
However, while blends offer
barrier still doesnt do much to
block moisture or vapor. And
while most blends contain UV
inhibitors, not much defense
can be packed into a clear coat
thats only a few microns thick.
If the piece spends most of its
days outdoors, you should plan
48
woodcraftmagazine.com
on making regular inspections
as soon as the wood appears dull
(about every year). The good
news is that oil/varnish blends
project might only require a light
scrubbing or powerwashing before its
ready for recoating.
Furthermore,
April/May 2014
In contrast to slow-curing tung
oil, Odies looks good after only
one coat and dries in only 72
hours. To use, simply apply with
a rag or abrasive pad, give the
oil 30 minutes to sink into the
wood, and then buff off the excess.
Because it contains natural
waxes and UV inhibitors, Odies
has an edge over tung oil when it
comes to combating moisture and
sunlight, but the barrier is still
thin. To keep defenses up, youll
need to monitor your project
and apply a fresh coat when the
surface starts to appear dry.
repairs are easy. If the wood
starts to stain or turn grey,
you can usually get away
with spot-sanding and then
applying a few touch-up
coats to the problem spot.
Polymerized Oils
Although not evident from the
label, Tru-Oil is different enough
to deserve a special category. This
polymerized (polymerization
refers to a cooking
process in an oxygen-free
environment) product is
essentially partiallycured. Once exposed
to oxygen, the oil
cures harder, faster,
and glossier than
tung oil and most oil/
varnish blends. With
multiple coats, its
possible to build up
that can hold its own
against the elements.
Looking at Linseed Oil? Look elsewhere.
^
/
The downside to the
polymerization process is that the
curing clock is already ticking.
Compared to other oils and
blends, Tru-Oil tacks up quickly
and may develop tiny cracks if
its applied too thick. For these
reasons, it should be reserved
for smaller, more manageable
scales and gun stocks.
Safety Alert
d
One-Time And Woodlife Classic
When shopping for clear wood
/
/
OneTime Wood Protector
d
K
Kd
hs
Kd
Kd
Woodlife Classic
/
t
t
d
E
hs
Online Extra
&ttt
DD'K
April/May 2014
49
Outdoor Clear Finishes Comparison Chart
Product
Type
Cost
Recd
coats
Water
Resistance
(Moisture/
Vapor)
UV
Mildew
Resistance resistance
FilmCleanup
Building
Drying
(hours)
Notes
Tung Oil
Oil
$20.99/qt.
Rag, brush
Y/N
Mineral
spirits
24
t
excess or
gummy.
Odies
Oxi Oil
Oil
$27.99/9 oz.
Rag, brush
1-2
Y/N
Mineral 72
spirits or
D-Limonene
Wax provides
moisture
resistance.
General
Finishes
Outdoor Oil
Oil/Varnish
$17/qt.
Rag, brush
Y/N
Mineral
spirits
10
Darkens
slightly
Watco
Teak Oil
Oil/Varnish
$18/qt.
Rag, brush
Y/N
Mineral
spirits
10
Recommened for
hardwoods
(mahogany,
teak, ipe).
Watco
Exterior
Wood
Oil/Varnish
$16/qt.
Rag, brush
Y/N
Mineral
spirits
10
Recommended for
Slight yellow
Tru-Oil
Polymerized Oil
$17/8 oz.
Rag, spray
5
(aerosol can)
Y/Y
Mineral
spirits
24
Apply in
thin layers to
avoid cracks.
Does not
yellow
with age.
System 3
Spar
Oil
$40/qt.
Brush
9-12
Y/Y
Mineral
spirits
24-48
Can be
applied
over epoxy.
Darkens
Varathane
Spar
Oil
$19/qt.
Brush
Y/N
Mineral
spirits
72
Darkens
Behlens
Oil
WW
Z
Varnish
$23/qt.
Brush
Y/N
Mineral
Spirits
24-48
Nearly colorless. Darkens
less than
other oils.
Waterlox
(Sealer and
Marine
Finish)
Oil
$32/qt.
$43/qt.
Brush, rag
3
Y/Y
1 sealer/
2 top
Mineral
spirits
72-96
Sanding
not required
for adhesion
of next coat.
Darkens
Varathane
Acrylic
$16/qt.
Brush, roller,
sprayer
Y/Y
Soap and 24
water
Can be
sanded in
2 hours.
GF Exterior
450
Acrylic
$23/qt.
Brush, roller,
sprayer
Y/Y
Soap and 24
water
Can be
sanded in 2
hours. Works
as topcoat on
GF paints. Not
recommended
for ipe or teak.
OneTime
Acrylate
Resin
$35/qt.
Brush, roller,
sprayer
Y/N
Mineral
spirits
or
Simple
Green
100% solid;
requires UV
to cure. No
Woodlife
Wood
Preserva
Acrylic
$12/qt.
Brush, roller,
sprayer, dip
Y/Y
Soap and 24
water
50
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
24-48
Sealer
and primer.
Aboveground
use only.
EPA
registered
mildewcide.
Frame-and-Panel Finesse
Looks and longevity are in the details.
By Paul Anthony
rame-and-panel construction
has been used for centuries to
build cabinet doors, case sides,
and other assemblies. It is so
attractive you might think it was
designed that way just for looks.
But it was actually devised as an
elegant solution to the perennial
problem of wood movement.
The problem is that a simple
solid wood panel expands and
contracts across its width in
response to seasonal changes in
humidity. So if such a single-slab
panel was used as a cabinet door,
for example, it might swell shut
during high summer humidity
and shrink enough to show
unsightly gaps during winters
low humidity. With frame-and
unglued inside a frame where its
allowed to expand and contract
while the frame maintains a
consistent overall size. Brilliant.
Of course, panels can also
be made from plywood, MDF,
and other stable man-made
materials. This approach offers
the beauty of frame-and-panel
construction without the
wood movement problems.
Whatever style you choose, its
not hard to build frame-andpanel assemblies, especially
with the stile-and-rail router
bit sets available these days
for the frame joinery. However,
designing and making assemblies
well requires some nuance and
a basic understanding of wood
movement. Here, Ive compiled
a handful of tips and techniques
your frame-and-panel work.
April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
51
How it works
Door Anatomy
Top rail
Tongue
Bevel
Z
Solid
wood
panel sits
unglued
in frame
grooves.
No expansion
gap needed in
rail grooves.
Wood Movement
No movement
Solid wood expands
and contracts only
across the grain.
No movement
52
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
Wood is hygroscopic; that is, it absorbs moisture
from the air. And when it does, the moisture
swells the cell walls, causing the wood to expand
across its grain. Conversely, when moisture in
the air decreases, the wood will shrink across
its grain. This response to changing seasonal
humidity must be factored into the design
of a piece of furniture if its to last. Frameand-panel construction is a solution that
allows a wide solid wood panel to expand and
contract freely within grooves in the frame.
The frame consists of stiles (the vertical
members) and rails (the horizontal members)
that are relatively narrow, so they wont
substantially change dimension over the
seasons. This dimensionally stable construction
houses the panel within the frame grooves. A
tongue at the panel perimeter tucks into the
between the two even as the
panel changes width.
into its frame, leave a gap
between the panel sides and
the stile grooves to allow for
wood movement. (Because
the panel wont change length,
between its rail grooves.) A
Expansion gap
that the fully expanded panel
Dowel or other
wont muscle the frame joints
pin through
rear face keeps
apart. Likewise, you dont want
panel centered.
a fully contracted panel to pull
entirely away from its grooves.
In the case of man-made
materials (e.g., plywood
and MDF), the frame serves
to restrain the panel from
warping and to hide any ugly
from the aesthetics borrowed
Negligible
from traditional frame-andmovement across
grain of narrow
panel design. And because
a plywood panel is stable, it
can be glued into the frame
grooves, making for a virtually
indestructible assembly.
&
&
d
that suits the application and your tooling. Keep in
>
^
^
d
W
Although most panels can
simply be categorized as either
in small shops today are cut on
WW/:,
thickness. The simplest approach
is to make the panel as thick as
a thicker panel to center it across
the panel. I usually do the latter
dZ
April/May 2014
53
Composing panels
Ideally, a solid-wood panel within
a frame should be made from a
single board with uninterrupted
grain. However, wide boards can
be hard to come by, requiring
you to glue up large panels from
narrower boards. Following a
few simple design principles
can yield panels with gracefully
composed grain that makes
your furniture stand proud.
When laying out, use long
boards, sliding them against each
other to create a good match at
the boards in whatever way is
necessary to create the most
uninterrupted, continuous
grain pattern and consistent
color. When working with
boards that exhibit arched
cathedral grain, its a good
idea to use a full-width board
at the center of the panel, and
then join narrower straightgrained pieces to its edges
to create the wider panel. As
a general rule, orient the arch
of cathedral grain upward for
a more uplifting feel. (When
cutting panels from plywood
sheets, select sections of the
closely as practically possible.)
Z
Unless you own a shaper, raising
panels is best done on a router
table. Youll want a strong
(minimum 2 hp, preferably
variable speed) router to spin
a typical panel-raising bit.
These hefty bits take a big bite,
so make sure to remove stock
by taking a series of shallow,
sequentially deeper passes. For
clean, accurate cuts, always
use a featherboard to keep the
table at the bit location. Also,
use a guard to protect your
hands from that vicious bit.
When rabbeting the edges
grooves, its important that the
tongue be a consistent thickness.
Otherwise, you invite gaps or
Use a panel-raising bit in your router table to bevel panel edges. The
guard in the background (see page 20) has been removed for clarity.
54
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
Grain clashes on
panel of poorly
composed edgejoined boards.
t
visually distorts
frame and may
indicate warpprone wood.
Straight grain on
makes for stability
framed panel.
Centered cathedral
grain with upward
arch creates
a balanced,
its grooves. For accuracy, I
suggest creating the tongue by
making two intersecting cuts
table. Then make the second cut
with the panel held vertically
against the fence as shown in
the photo below. Orienting the
tongue between the blade and
the fence like this ensures it
will be a consistent thickness.
D
by a featherboard to ensure a
tongue of consistent thickness.
&
Most seasoned woodworkers
have learned by experience
how much room to allow in stile
grooves to accommodate wood
movement of a solid wood panel,
basing their decision on the
type of wood and the relative
humidity in the air. However,
for this approach to work, its
critical that youre working
with properly seasoned wood,
and to be certain of that, youll
need to read the moisture
content with a moisture meter.
Precise calculation of wood
movement can get complicated,
but as a ballpark reference,
remember that most seasoned
Tip Alert
Type Wood movement charts
into your web browser for more
movement to expect from a
plainsawn domestic woods
move between 18" and 14" per
foot of width from the driest
time of year to the wettest.
Many exotic species move a bit
less, and all quartersawn wood
moves less than plainsawn.
Overall, the exact amount of
movement depends on the type
of species and where you live.
With those parameters in
mind, factor in the season and
your locale. For example, if
youre building in the dead of
a northeast winter, a 1'-wide
panel has probably shrunk
as much as its going to, so
youll want to leave at least
1
8" between each edge and its
adjacent stile groove bottom
for the wood to expand during
the humid summer. Conversely,
in deep summertime, you
can seat a panel almost fully
in its stile grooves, leaving
perhaps a 116" clearance on
each side as insurance.
A moisture meter like this
Wagner model MMC 220 will
accurately tell you the moisture
content of your stock.
Fingers are actually
a safe distance
To remove enough wood to
allow for expansion, simply
run a panels long-grain edges
Tip Alert
the panel shrinks inward away from the stiles.
To prevent buckling when gluing up a frame,
use parallel jaw clamps. When using pipe
diameter matches the frame thickness.
Use a dowel or brad to pin a solidwood panel in place through the back
of the rails to ensure the panel stays
centered as it expands and contracts.
Because wood movement is not an
issue with plywood panels, they can be
glued into their frame grooves, which
reinforces the overall construction.
If you dont have parallel jaw clamps like the one in
the foreground, use proper size dowels against pipe
clamp jaws to prevent the assembly from buckling.
April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
55
Drawer Slides:
The Inside Story
How to choose which ones to use
By Ken Burton
hen it comes to smoothrunning, trouble-free drawers,
you just cant beat the action
you get from a set of properly
installed drawer slides. While
some purists may scoff at their
use in handmade furniture,
mechanical slides are a mainstay
of the kitchen cabinet industry
and take a lot of the hassle out
of installing drawers in cabinets
and furniture alike. So rather
than debate whether drawer
56
woodcraftmagazine.com
slides belong in your next project,
the real question becomes:
How do you choose from all the
options available? In this handy
guide, Ill help you pick the right
slides for the application at hand
and save time that you might
otherwise spend on research.
Whats out there
When purchasing slides, you have
two choices to make: how far
out you want your drawer(s) to
April/May 2014
extend (Photos A, B, C) and how
you want to mount the slides to
the drawer (and the case). Here,
you see side-mount slidesthose
that are mounted between the
sides of the drawer and the sides
of the case. Other options include
center-mount (Photo D)
and under-mount (Photo E).
You may also come across some
the drawer as well (Photo F).
A
At the low end of the scale are
three-quarter extension slides.
They allow a drawer to extend
so that about three quarters
of it is exposed and easily
accessible. The primary
advantage of these slides is
their economical cost. Also,
they are readily available
at local hardware stores
and home centers and are
B
Full-extension slides allow
They come in a range of
much weight you intend to put
in your drawer. They cost about
twice as much as the threequarter extension slides shown
in Photo A. They are becoming
more widely available, but for
probably have to order from
a woodworking supplier such
t/
d
style of slide is available from
a number of manufacturers.
(Those shown are the
Accuride 3732 series.)
C
K
access, allowing a drawer to
slide approximately 112" out
past the face of the cabinet.
d
as overhanging countertops
from being in the way. Overtravel slides tend to be both
more expensive and have a
drawer access, these Accuride
greater weight capacity than a
comparable full-extension slide.
Center-mount slides are one of
the least obtrusive slide types, but
many drawers just require a single
slide, the cost is about half that
of side-mounted slides. As shown
/
,
made from 18" plywood helped
make the spacing work out for
this Accuride Series 1029 slide.
Photos: Ken Burton
Shim
April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
57
E
Z
d>hDd^
/
F
>
^
d
K
Wooden Drawer Slides
/
d
Z
t
z
58
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
t
Tip Alert
d
/
Slide and drawer sizes
Most drawer slides are
available in even lengths
ranging from 10" to 28" with
a couple odd lengths (15"
and 21") thrown in. They
also carry weight ratings.
To choose the right length,
measure both the depth of your
cabinet and the length (front
to back) of your drawer(s).
Undermount slides are designed
to match the drawer length.
With the other slides, you
typically get slides that are
approximately 1" shorter than
the depth of your cabinet.
As for the weight ratings,
consider what you are going to
put in the drawers and purchase
slides up to the challenge.
will require heavier duty slides
than clothing and linens.
Possibly more important than
drawer length is drawer width,
particularly with side-mounted
slides. Most slides require 12"
of space per slide, which
means you need to make your
drawers 1" narrower than the
Most drawer slides require the drawer box to be narrower than the opening
d
Materials
Other factors to consider include
Most slides are made from steel,
but for outdoor applications, a
few models come in stainless.
(silver) is the most common,
although some manufacturers
include white, off-white, brown,
and black in their offerings.
Still other options include
drawer-motion engineering.
Some slides are available with a
self-closing feature. With these, a
pair of springs take over for the
last couple of inches as you push
the drawer closed, retracting
the drawer into its opening
without allowing it to slam. Some
slides offer a push-to-open
feature. With these, a gentle
push on the drawer face causes
the drawer to pop out of the
cabinet a few inches, eliminating
the need for drawer pulls.
Designing for
Drawer Slides
As mentioned earlier, most
drawer slides take up 12" of space
on either side of a drawer. In
order to conceal these spaces,
youll need to plan on making
your drawer fronts wider than
the boxes. This is accomplished
by making the drawer face a
separate element from the drawer
box itself, as shown in Photo G.
About Our Author
<
z<
EdW
out his website at www.wrwoodworks.com.
April/May 2014
woodcraftmagazine.com
59
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