Different Types of Basic Weaves Structures

in Weaving
Basic Weave Structures:
Weave is the interlacing pattern warp and weft yarns, in order to produce a woven fabric. Weave
structures is the design by which fabric is produced. Fabric are manufactured in wide varieties
and design. The great variety of weaves found in the textiles of today are modifications of a few
fundamental weaves invented in the earliest times. The basic weaves are plain, twill, and satin.
All the others are derivatives of these basic weaves or their combination. In this article I will
discuss about different types of basic weaves structures and their names.

Figure-1: Different basic weaves structures

Different Types Of Weaves and Their Names:
1. Plain Weave
2. Twill Weave
3. Satin/Sateen
4. Honey Comb Weave
5. Huck a Back Weave
6. Crepe Weave
7. Bedford Cord Weave
8. Welts and Pique
 9. Mock Leno Weave
All types of basic weaves are descrived briefly.

Plain Weave:
Plain is the simplest weave, in which warp and weft threads interlace in alternate manner (as
shown in Figure-2), giving maximum number of interlacements. This maximum interlacement
imparts firmness and stability to the structure. In trade, the special names like broadcloth, taffeta,
shantung, poplin, calico, tabby, and alpaca are applied to plain weave. At least two ends and two
picks are required to weave its basic unit. A minimum of two heald frames are required for this
weave, but more than two (multiple of basic weave) heald frames can be used to weave this
construction. It is used in cambric, muslin, blanket, canvas, dhothi, saree, shirting, suiting, etc.

Figure-2: Plain weave structure

Plain weaves are basically three types. They are:
1. Warp Rib
2. Weft Rib
3. Matt Weave
Warp rib:
Warp ribs are a modified form of plain weave. It has 1/1 interlacements in the filling direction,
which differs from the simple plain weaves. This modified interlacement results in the formation
of cords, ridges, or texture across the warp direction of the fabric. These cords or ridges are
formed due to the grouping of the filling yarns. The repeat of warp rib is always on two warp
yarns. The first warp yarn follows the formula, while the second warp yarn is in the opposite
direction of the first one. It requires two heald frames at least, but multiple of these can also be
employed. The number of weft yarns in a repeat unit of this weave is equal to the sum of the
digits in formula of warp rib. For example, 2/2 warp rib requires 2 warp yarns and 4 weft yarns.
Design of the above-stated warp rib is shown in Figure-3. Warp rib is also known as ottoman.

Figure-3: Warp rib (2/2).

Warp rib are two types:
1. Regular Warp Rib
2. Irregular Warp Rib
Weft rib:
Weft ribs are another modified form of plain weaves. It has 1/1 interlacements in the warp
direction, which differs from the simple plain weaves. This modified interlacement results in the
formation of cords, ridges, or texture across the weft direction of the fabric. These cords or
ridges are formed due to the grouping of the warp yarns. The repeat of weft rib is always on two
weft yarns. The first weft yarn follows the formula, while the second weft yarn is in the opposite
direction of the first one. It requires two heald frames at least, but multiple of these can also be
employed. The number of warp yarns in a repeat unit of this weave is equal to the sum of the
digits in formula of warp rib. For example, 2/2 weft rib requires 2 weft yarns and 4 warp yarns.
Design of the above-stated warp rib is shown in Figure-4. Weft rib is also known as half panama.

Figure-4: Weft rib (2/2).

Weft rib are two types:
 1. Regular Weft Rib
2. Irregular Weft Rib
Matt weave:
This type of weave is constructed by extending the plain weave in warp and weft directions at
the same time so that two or more threads work alike in both directions. In this weave, the same
size of squares appear on both sides of the fabric showing the same number of warp and weft
yarns on front and back of the fabric. Matt weave is also commercially known as basket, hop-
sack, or full panama. This weave requires a minimum of two heald frames. Design of the 2/2
matt weave is shown in Figure-5. The matt weaves can be extended further to give more
prominence but restricted due to loose structure and modified in several ways. In matt weave, the
warp ends that work alike tends to twist around each other. To avoid this twisting of the yarns,
warp ends that work alike are drawn from different slits of the reed.

Figure-5: Matt weave (2/2).

Matt weave are three types:
1. Regular Matt Weave
2. Irregular Matt Weave
3. Fancy Matt Weave
Twill Weave:
Twill weave is another basic weave which is well known for its diagonal line formation in the
fabric due to its interlacing pattern. This weave and its derivatives are used for the ornamental
purposes. Twill has closer setting of yarns due to less interlacement imparting greater weight and
good drape as compared to the plain weave. In simple twill, the outward and upward movement
of the interlacing pattern is always one that imparts a diagonal line to this design. The direction
of the propagation of twill line classifies twill into right-hand or left-hand twill. Twill weaves
find a wide range of application such as drill cloth, khakhi uniforms, denim cloth, blankets,
shirtings, hangings and soft furnishings.
 Figure-6: Twill weave
There are various types of twill weave:
1. Warp faced twill
2. Weft faced twill
3. Balanced twill
4. Pointed Twill
5. Horizontal Pointed Twill
6. Vertical Pointed Twill
7. Herringbone Twill
8. Horizontal Herringbone Twill
9. Vertical Herringbone Twill
10. Skip Twill
11. Diamond Weave
12. Pointed Twill Base Diamond
13. Herringbone Twill Base Diamond
14. Combination Twill
15. Combined Twill
16. Broken Twill
17. Elongated Twill
18. Transposed Twill
Satin/Sateen:
Satin/sateen is a basic weave that does not have any regular pattern like twill. The surface of the
fabric is either warp or weft faced. Satin is warp faced, which means that all the surface of the
fabric will show the warp threads except for the one thread interlacement with other series of
yarn. If it is weft faced, then it will be known as sateen, which means that fabric surface will
show the weft threads mostly. The unique in this weave is the single interlacement of warp
thread and weft thread in a single repeating unit. These weaves have the least interlacement
points among the basic weaves. Due to this reason, it gives the surface of fabric more luster and
smoothness. Along with these properties, more close packing of the threads is possible, which
gives the maximum achievable cover factor in this weave. With this weave it is possible to use a
cotton warp and silk filling, having most of the silk appear on the surface of the fabric.

Figure-7: Satin weave

Honey Comb Weave:
This name is given to this weave due to its honey bee web-like structure. It makes ridges and
hollow structures which finally give a cell-like appearance. In this weave, both warp and weft
threads move freely on both sides, which coupled with rough structure. The fabric made by this
weave has longer float all over the fabric. Due to this reason, it is radially absorbent of moisture.
This property made these weaves useful for towels, bed covers, and quilts. This weave is further
divided into three types which are explained below. Most commonly, these weaves are
constructed on repeats which are multiple of four in ends and picks.
 Figure-8: Honeycomb weave
Honey comb weave are three types:
 Single-Ridge Honey Comb
 Double-Ridge Honey Comb
 Brighton Honey Comb
Huck a Back Weave:
This weave is largely used for cotton towel and linen cloth. It has longer floats in two quadrants,
which make them more moisture absorbent so employed in towels. This weave is combination of
longer floats of symmetric weaves in two quadrants and plain weaves in the remaining two
quadrants. Plain weave gives firmness to the structure, while longer float weave increases the
absorbency of fabric, making it suitable for the above-stated purpose. Special draft is employed
for this weave. The draft is arranged in such a way that odd ends are drawn in two front heald
frames and the even threads are drawn from back two heald frames. The purpose of this special
draft is to weave plain fabric without redrawing of beam. For this purpose, heald frame one and
two are coupled together, and heald frames three and four are coupled together. Sometimes,
longer float symmetric weaves are used in combination of plain weaves in huck a back weave,
which is also termed as honey comb huck a back weaves. Examples of this weave is shown in
Figure-9.
 Figure-9: Huck a back weave
Crepe Weave:
Crepe weave refers to those weaves that do not have any specific pattern. These weaves may
contain a little bit appearance of twills, but they do not have the prominence. They make small
patterns or minute spots and seed-like appearance all over the fabric surface. These weaves may
be used separately or in combination with other weaves. Crepe weaves are frequently employed
in making the ground of the figured fabrics. In simple words, crepe weave is used to make a
rough appearance. If we make crepe weaves with crepe yarns, this combination will give more
remarkably pebbly or puckered appearance. Crepe weaves can be drawn in several ways, but the
most common methods are given below.
 Sateen Method
 1/4 Turn Method
 Reversing Method
 Super Imposed Method
 Plain Method

Figure-10: Crepe (sateen based), 7 end.

Bedford Cord Weave:
This is a special class of weave that forms longitudinal warp lines in fabric with fine sunken lines
in between. This fabric is used in suiting for ornamental purposes. The method to construct this
weave is simple. The repeat of the weave is calculated by multiplying the cord ends by two. The
resultant value will be the total number of ends of the weave repeat. The pick repeat is four for
this weave. The weave repeat (warp ends) is divided into two halves to construct it. The first and
last ends of both the halves are treated as cutting ends. Plain weave is inserted on these cutting
ends. These plain ends behave as sunken ends in the Bedford cord.

Figure-11: Bedford cord weave, 10 threads cord with 2 waded ends

Welts and Pique:
A pique weave consists of plain face fabric which is composed of a series of warp and weft
threads along with a series of stitching threads. This weave is unique due to the formation of
horizontal lines (weft wise). This weave requires two beams, one for the plain weave threads and
the other for stitching ends. The word “welt” is concerned to the pique construction, when the
indentations make deep or hollow (sunken) lines appear in the cloth.

Figure-12: Welts and pique weave

Mock Leno Weave:
This weave is much similar to a gauze-type fabric. The weave is constructed in four quadrants.
The first and third quadrants have symmetric weave, and the second and fourth quadrants have
opposite weave to the symmetric weave. The perforated fabrics are made by this type of weave.
This effect is achieved by reversing the symmetric unit of the weave in the alternate quadrants.
So, these weaves are produced in sections that oppose each other. The fabric appearance can be
improved or obscured by the system of denting that is employed in this weave. The tendency of
threads to run together is counteracted if the last end of one group is passed through the same
split as the first end of the next group. The design of mock leno weave is shown in Figure-13.

Figure-14: Mock leno weave

Weaving Loom:
The loom is a device or machine in which interlacement of warp and weft yarn
performed and thus fabric is produced. Loom is the principle mechanical device for
weaving. The basic function of a loom is only making fabric. For manufacturing of fabric
different types of loom are used in weaving industry.

Classification of Looms:
The weaving loom can be classified based on shed opening system or weft insertion
system, which are explained in the following section.

With respect to picking mechanism:

Weaving loom classifications with respect to picking systems are shown in Figure-1.

Figure-1: Weaving loom classifications with respect to picking systems

The weaving looms are mainly classified into two distinct categories depending on the
type of picking or weft insertion system. These categories include shuttle loom and
shuttleless loom. The shuttle loom carries a shuttle to insert the weft. The shuttle is
comprised of wooden body having a weight of 150–250 grams and a pirn required to
wind the weft yarn on it. The pirn is placed inside the wooden body of shuttle. The limi-
tations of shuttle loom are its low speed, heavy weight, and extra stoppage due to
empty pirn replacement. The shuttle looms are being rapidly replaced by shuttleless
looms. The shuttleless looms are further classified into distinct categories including
projectile loom, rapier loom, air-jet loom, and water-jet loom. All the possible weft
insertion systems are shown in Figure-2.
 Figure-2: Weaving loom weft insertion media.
With respect to shedding mechanism:
The weaving looms are classified into three distinct categories depending on shedding
mechanism: tappet loom, dobby loom, and jacquard loom. A summary of weaving loom
with respect to shedding mechanism is given in Table-1. In tappet loom, the healed
frames are operated with the help of tappet cams, which are designed according to
weave designs. The advantages of tappet loom are simple mechanism, low initial cost,
and easy maintenance. The number of cams, in tappet loom, depends on the weave
repeat, for example, 4 cams for 3/1 twill. The limitations of tappet loom are; tappet cam
designed for one weave cannot be used for other weave and long time is required for
cam change. In dobby looms, the healed frames are operated by jacks and levers, and
lifting and lowering of healed frames are controlled by pattern chain.
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Table-1: Summary of Weaving Looms with Respect to Shedding Mechanism

Sr. Type of Loom Repeat Length Number of Pitch (mm)

No. (max.) Harness (max.)
1 Tappet (positive and Up to 8 picks 12 18
negative)
2 Dobby (positive mechanical) 6000 28 12
3 Dobby (negative 150 16 12
mechanical)
4 Dobby (rotary mechanical) 4700 28 18
5 Dobby (negative electronic) 6400 16 12
6 Dobby (positive electronic) 6400 28 12
Number of
Hooks
7 Jacquard (single lift 600
mechanical)
8 Jacquard (double lift 1200
mechanical)
9 Jacquard (double lift Up to 14,000
electronic)

The dobby looms can be equipped with a maximum of 32 healed frames, which
expands the weave design possibilities. The weave designs such as crepe, honey
comb, huckaback, mockleno, and bedford cord are possible with dobby looms.
However, mechanism is complicated as compared to tappet loom, and initial cost and
maintenance cost are high. In jacquard loom, the warp yarns are individually controlled
by a cord called harness cord rather than healed frame. The jacquard loom further
expands the weave design possibilities to an unlimited extent. The woven cloth with
complicated designs such as animals, flowers, and geometrical figures can be
produced. A summary of available jacquard systems from Staubli is given in Table-2.

Table-2: Summary of Staubli Jacquard

Sr. Application Recommended Number of Characteristics

No. Jacquard Hooks
(Staubli)
1 Ribbons and CX 182/LX 192/448/896 Needle weaving, narrow fabrics,
labels 32/LX 62 double-lift open-shed jacquard
machine with crank drive, inclined
shed on LX range
2 Written CX 172 64 or 80 Labeling and logos on selvedges,
selvedges double-lift open-shed jacquard
machine, crank shed movement,
 parallel shed
3 Fabric CX 182 96 or 192
inscriptions
on selvage
4 Flat fabrics LX 1602 and LX LX 1602: Flat fabrics, terry cloth, and
and terry cloth 3202 3072, 4096, technical fabrics, double-lift open-
5120 hooks shed jacquard machine, Coaxial
LX 3202: shaft system, controlled by
6144, 8192, complementary cams, Fine
10240, adjustment of shed opening and
12288(x2), shed angle
14336, 18432
hooks
SX 1408 hooks Flat fabrics and terry cloth, 76
(11 rows of precise, accessible shedding
16 modules) settings
2688 hooks
(21 rows of
16 modules)
5 Labels and UNIVALETTE 64 or 96 Labeling and logos on selvedges
name actuators per and in all flat fabrics, the jacquard
selvedges on head machine has its own drive with no
fabric mechanical link to the weaving
machine and is electronically
synchronized
6 Free of UNIVAL 100 512– Flat fabrics, terry cloth, technical
mechanical 15360(x2) fabrics and carbon fiber fabrics,
constraints threads with individual warp thread control with
all Stäubli JACTUATOR, the
intermediate jacquard machine has its own drive
formats with no mechanical link to the
weaving machine and is
electronically synchronized
7 Velvet fabrics SX V 2688 hooks Velvet fabrics, two parallel shafts,
cam driven on both sides
LX 1692, 3072, 4096, Coaxial shaft system, controlled by
5120 hooks complementary cams
LX 3292 6144, 8192, Fine adjustment of shed opening
10240, 12288, and shed angle
14336 hooks