OLD CITY’S BLOCKS OF ANCIENT CITY IN BUILT

ENVIRONMENT (MANDALAY, MYANMAR)

Mr. Soe Min Htwe1 and Miss Nang Ei Ei Khaing2

1,2
Department of Architecture
Mandalay Technological University, Myanmar
smhtwe.mdy@gmail.com dimple8.mdy@gmail.com

Abstract
Mandalay is the second largest city in Myanmar. This city is the historic old capital
of last Myanmar Kingdom, a city which abounds in historical sites, cultural memorials and
Buddhist edifices. The city had been founded in 1857 by King Mindon. As all secular and
religious buildings of that time, including the royal palace, the moat, old city’s blocks and
monasteries were built in Mandalay. The city center was the Mandalay Fort, a walled city
surrounded by blocks. The nobility, King’s counselors and the royal lineage lived inside the
royal city. The people and the servants of the king were placed outside the royal city. One of
the old city’s block means dwellings inside a block called a Pya of Mandalay. After the royal
city was built, until today, above mentioned old city’s blocks are developed and changed
according to the time. As time present, dwellings are not properly constructed inside the
blocks. Many people of different nationalities live in some old city’s blocks with different
cultures. These blocks should be considered for social, living standard and other facts for
Mandalay citizens. And then, culture of above mentioned old city’ blocks and structure of city
are to be taken into preservation. The main theme of this paper is studied about the former
Myanmar’ construction knowledge of capital and the foresight. The culture and tradition of
Myanmar are preserved fairly in Mandalay City. Hence, historical sites, religious building, the
former condition and existing development of environment in the old city’s blocks are studied
and recorded in this paper.

Keywords: Mandalay, Myanmar Kingdom, old city’s blocks, pya (unit of distance measure
based on), preservation, Phayar (pagoda or stupa)

1. Introduction
Mandalay is the second largest city in Myanmar. It is not far from the
east bank of the Ayeyarwaddy River and it is about 600 kilometers north of
Yangon. Fulfilling the Buddha’s prophesy upon his visit to the holy site of
Mandalay hill, King Mindon built a new city at the base of the hill in 1857 AD
and it was formally inaugurated in 1859. When King Mindon passed away, his
son King Thibaw ascended the throne, and in 1885, Myanmar fell under the
British colony [4]. Under the reign of British, unfortunately many of the
precious records and things have been lost. Railway line was constructed
through the royal city. King’ counselors and other services of the king were
moved from inside to outside the royal city. Many people of different
nationality were arrived to Mandalay. Most of those people worked in trading
and commerce. Some of Myanmar handicraft works disappeared and replaced
their merchandises. During World War II, the Japanese bombed by the allies,
and Mandalay was left land razed. Mandalay was attempted to develop by the
urbane person. Most of land or compounds were sold by separating many
parts. Nowadays, most of the former compound types disappeared in
Mandalay. Hence, Mandalay city is not developing systematically [2].

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2. Methodology
First, this paper submits about the former condition and its old city’s
blocks of Mandalay city. Second, submits the existing conditions and
development of old city’s blocks. And then, the historical sites, the former
condition and existing development of environment in the old city’s blocks are
recorded.

PART I
3. Former Mandalay City and its Old City’s Blocks
a. Historical Background
Under the Konbaung Dynasty, the capital shifted several times for
religious, political, and strategic reasons. These capitals were: (1) Ava (Innwa)
(1752-1783, 1823-1841), (2) Amarapura (1783-1823, 1841-1860), (3)
Mandalay (1860-1885).
As shown in Fig:(1), Ava (the third Burmese Empire) was founded by
Alaungpaya in 1752. Amarapura was founded by King Bodawpaya in 1783, as
the king transferred the capital from Ava. King Bagyidaw, grandson of
Bodawpaya shifted the capital back to Ava in 1823. But in 1838 Ava was
damaged because of an earthquake. So King Tharrawaddy packed up again
and once more transferred to Amarapura in 1841 and it remained as the capital
until the reign of King Mindon. In 1852, King Mindon decided to move the
capital to a new site from Amarapura in 1856 because: (1) the city’s past was
filled with royal intrigues and atrocities and this, combined with the recent
humiliation of defeat to the British (2) Amarapura city was very narrow and
the three sides of the city were surrounded by the river. The Ayeyarwaddy
steamers kept him awake at night with their whistles! (3) King Mindon was
establishing a new era of peace and prosperity for Myanmar. The new city was
built in 1857. His son, King Thibaw lost Mandalay to the British in 1885-1886
[3].

Figure 1. Mandalay City and Its Surrounding Old Cities

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 b. Plan and Blocks of Mandalay City
As shown in Fig:(2), Mandalay is situated in central Myanmar. Golden
boundary of Mandalay city is, towards the east, there are the blue shan
mountain ranges which give the city a physical dignity. To the west there is
Myanmar’s life-stream, the mighty Ayeyarwaddy River. To the north there is
Matayar River and south there is Myit Nge River. The choice of place for
new capital was pleasant surrounding area with creeks and lakes since
Mandalay city had not been established. King Mindon decided to choose this
place for his new capital because Mandalay hill is situated at the north-east
corner. Shwe Ta Chaung and Yadanar Nadi Canals are situated in that place.
He planned to build a new capital at Mandalay in the 2400th year of the
propagation of the Lord Buddha’s Faith. The city was laid simultaneously with
the seven edifices:(1) the royal city with the battlemented walls (2) the moat
surrounding it (3) the Maha Lawka Marazein Phayar (Kuthodaw Phayar)
(4)the higher ordination hall named the Pahtan-haw Shwe Thein (5) the
Atumashi (the Incomparable) monastery (6) the Thudhama Zayats(rest-house)
(7) the library for the Buddhist scriptures in 1859. The king’s palace was built
at the centre of city covered by moats and city walls, it was almost square.
Mandalay is a rectilinear city which was plotted out 12‘Pyas’ (6300 ft) or
600‘Tars’ (1‘tar’=10.5feet) from the east to the west and so did from the north
to the south. The perimeter of the city was, therefore, 2,400‘Tars’ (126,000 ft),
and there were 144 blocks altogether. The kings, the queens, the royal families
and the servants were located in 128 compounds. Besides, 16 compounds were
for the royal palace [5].

Figure 2. Golden Boundary and Royal City of Mandalay

The orientation was extremely important since the east was seen as
the most honorable point of the compass. The palace was placed exactly in the
centre with its outer walls facing the cardinal points of the compass. There
were 20 gardens outside the royal city and 5 bridges spanning over the moat.
At present, there are four bridges spanning the moat at east, west, north and
south of the royal city. The eastern bridge was used as an exit for monasteries
and gardens and the western bridge was used as an exit to royal tomb. Most of

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the Myanmar people are Buddhist. As shown in Fig:(6), most of the
monasteries were placed along Yadanar Nadi Canal in the east of city. This
place was very pleasant with canal, gardens and also the moat honorable point
of the compass. Some of monasteries were placed along Shwe Ta Chaung
Canal in the west of city because that place was very pleasant with canal and
gardens. The rest of other monasteries were placed nearly around the Mahar
Myat Muni Phayar (pagoda) in the south of the city. As shown in Fig:(3), the
important and precious places of Mandalay is situated nearly around
Mandalay hill (the natural landmark of Mandalay) in the north of city.
Because Kuthodaw Phayar (the world’s largest book), Kyauktawgyi Phayar
(was built by King Mindon in 1865), Sandamuni Phayar are situated and
seven edifices was laid.

Figure 3. Map of Quarters and Location of Phayars (Pagodas)

c. Format and Quarters

As shown in Fig:(4), Mandalay has the structure of rectangular shapes
with streets and roads crossing one another at right angles. It is divided into
four directions taking the palace at center east, west, north and south. 7
quarters included in east ward, 13 quarters in south, 29 quarters in the west
and 5 quarters in the north, there are altogether 54 quarters. But 38 quarters
still exists in this city now, 16 quarters have disappeared. Ancient city area
and name of 38 quarters are: E-1(maha zeyar bon), E-2(pyigyi myet hman), E-
3(pyigyi myet shin). S-1(haymar zala), S-2(seik-tra mahi), S-3(pat kone wun
kyin), S-4(zabu myet shin), S-5(kissana mahi), S-6(maw-ra giwah), S-7(yan
myo lon), S-8(pat kone pyaw bwe), S-9(hayma marlar), S-10(thet kya nwe zin)
, S-11(maha nwe zin), S-12(chan mya tharzi). W-1(nyaung kwe), W-2(amara
san khaung), W-3(amara htarni), W-4(pyigyi yanlon), W-5(pyilone chantha),
W-6(may gha geeri), W-7(pale’ ngwe yaung), W-8(aung mye tharsan),
W-9(min-te’ ei-kinn), W-10(thiri marlar), W-11(pyigyi kyet thayay),
W-12(chan aye tharsan), W-13(thiri haymar), W-14(pyigyi pyawbwe),
W-15(aung nann yeik thar), W-16(yadanar bonmi), W-17(mahar aung mye),
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W-18(dae-wun), W-19(sein pann), W-20(than-hlyet hmaw), W-21(shwe bone
shein), W-22(kyun lone ushaun), W-23(tam pa wati). (E = the east, S = the
south, W = the west of the city) [1].

Figure 4. Mandalay Ancient City Area and Number of Quarters

In establishing Mandalay City one-pya is fixed as 50-tars (525 ft).

Roads are constructed according to pya in the city. Pya-road is constructed in
equal breath of 9-tars (94.5 ft). Shwe Ta Chaung Canal and Yadanar Nadi
Canal are dug up for smooth flow of water. In former time, Shwe Ta Chaung
Canal was approximately 200 ft wide. Many people moved with boat on that
canal. The royal moat surrounding the city was fed with water from the
Yadanar Nadi Cannal.

d. About the Name and Type of Compounds

In 1857, new city area was divided into plots for residential and
commercial quarters. King Mindon built the compounds not only inside but
also outside the palace for people. Systematically, these names of the
compounds represented the owner’s name, step of the official position, their
works and ethnic group.

Figure 5. Type of Former House within Compound

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 e. Plan of Outside the Royal City
Handicraft such as the incredible process of making gold leaves, wood
and stone carving and bronze casting, etc. and trading has been developing
since the reign of King Mindon. As shown in Fig:(6), The city could be
divided into four parts. These parts are divided into (1) person of royal lineage
(2) person in the service of the king (3) urbanites and their workplaces (4)
person of a different nationality. Some of royal lineage had dwelling not only
inside but also outside in the southern and western parts the royal city. For
example, nga pa yin compound (nga pa yin princess lived) and thone sae
compound (thone sae prince lived). Most of people in the service of the king
lived in the southern part and the little people lived in the western part of the
city. For example, wat ma sut compound (minister in the days of Myanmar
kings lived) and mjou. wun min compound (the governor of a town in the
monarchical days lived). Most of the urbanites, handcrafters and other traders
were placed in the western part and the little people were placed in the
southern part of the city. For example, hti tan (where umbrellas were made),
phanat tan (where slippers were made). The people of a different nationality
were placed in the southern and western parts of the city. For example, tayoke
tan (Chinese people lived), khattiya compound (the relatives of khattiya
Brahmin lived).

royal lineage

person of different nationality

the service of the king

urbanites, handcrafters, traders

religious buildings and phayars
(pagodas)
Figure 6. Map of Religious Buildings for Buddhist and Former Land Use

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 PART II
4. Existing Conditions of Old City’s Blocks
a. Chan Aye Tharsan Quarter
The place of Chan Aye Tharsan quarter is W-12 (see, Fig: 4). The
name of Chan Aye Tharsan means traders lived comfortably in that quarter.
The former, many different nationalities were put in its place since the reign of
King Mindon. Most of the services of the king lived in that place. Nowadays,
these blocks have high density and mostly the traders live. Most of the Indians
live in many compounds. As shown in Fig:(7), Mosques are found more than
other religious buildings. Area of that quarter is from 26th street to 30th street
and from 80th street to 86th street. Total land area is 200.4 acres and 23 blocks
have in this quarter.

Figure 7. The Map of Chan Aye Tharsan Quarter

Table 1. Chan Aye Tharsan Quarter

-the queen of saw boe
Block Name of
Nos: maeHistory of Name
built this phayar Comments to conserve
nos: Compound
shin boe (pagoda) at the
4 586 mae entrance of the
compound -officerkhattiya
former who assisted
wat ma sut the Hluttawministers
village in 1430.
1 583 - *1430*
compound in the days of
Myanmar kings lived shin boe mae phayar
-the relatives of
khattiya
yoedayar -Thai (person did not
5 587 khattiya Brahmin -
2 584 compound
zay work in the service of -
lived
compound
Anauk the king) lived
-the relatives of
(west) -the relatives of Thai
6 588 khattiya Brahmin -
khattiya lived
phayar lived
compound -three sisters (the
3 585 thone suu -the traders of
7 589 wa: tan yat relatives of Thai) -
compound bamboo lived
built these phayar
pint thar -(pagoda).
pint thar min tha phayar thone suu
8 590 -
compound mie (the princess)

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 lived

-the former name was

*1863*
shi ar sin
taung sin
-thecompound
services of shi ar mosque
15 597 mosque
kjoun: because
stockadeelephants
(for trapping
9 591 compound were placedlived
in this
mosque elephants)
compound compound.
*1863*
*1863*
taung sin kjoun:
a mjauk tan mosque
mosque

taung /
myauk
myauk sin
ou: -the services of
kjoun:
boo stockade (for trapping
-the pot makers lived
1016 598
592 mosque elephants) lived
mosque
compound
compound *1863*
myauk sin kjoun:
*1863*
mosque
ou: boo mosque
17 599
18 600
Zaycho
ou: taw -
market
mosquearea -the pot makers lived
19
11 601
593
compound zaycho and clock tower
*187
-the former place was 5*
nga: pi tan zaycho market since ou: taw mosque
20 602 -
latkyar the reign
- King of King
Mindon put in
Mindon.
its proper place for
shae taw
fore-runners (fine
12 594 pyae -
artists of open-ended
-the governor of a
compound
mjou. wun drum
town in thea long
with
min body)
21 603 monarchical days
compound
lived
*1865*
taik tan mosque
moelar
lay zat -Gave in charity for
13
22 595
604 - -
compound Mosque.
*100 years
approximate*
mahar panelae temple
-the minister of royal
shwe taik
23 605 treasury lived
compound
joon
-the services of *1862*
14 596 mosque
somersault lived a nauk kone yoe
compound
(centre) mosque
*1863*
Joon mosque

b. Zaycho and it’s Environment

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 Mandalay city is a major city of Myanmar trade. Being centre of
Myanmar, it locates near the River Ayeyarwaddy. Mandalay is at a junction of
the upper and the lower Myanmar. In the larger town areas, people can usually
get good bargains at public market places known as zay (market), in Burmese.
There are many markets, the chief of which is the zaycho market. The block
nos: of zaycho market is 601 (see, Fig: 7). This market is the centre of trade
linking between towns of upper and lower Myanmar. Zaycho market has been
built since the reign of King Mindon. It was burnt in 1897, and again in 1902,
but rebuilt. As shown in Fig:(8), It was constructed one storey by brick.

Figure 8. Former Zaycho Market

The clock tower, next to the zaycho market, was built in 1903 to
commemorate the diamond jubilee of Queen Victoria. And then old market
building was demolished and replaced with modern form in 1991. As shown
in Fig:(9), the new zaycho market is 4 storey building.

Figure 9. Zaycho Market and Clock Tower

Zaycho market is situated in Chan Aye Tharsan quarter. In the former,

a lot of people such as the pot makers, the services of stockade, the services of
artillery lived and constructed mosques. Because of a lot of the services of the
king were Indians in that quarter. Under the reign of British, a lot of Indians
and other foreigners arrived to Mandalay. At that time, many Indians lived
nearly the mosques. In surrounding area of zaycho market, most of people are
Islam. They are 50 percent of total population. Most of their works are selling
and trading the merchandises such as the electronics devices and machines. In
former time, zaycho market has been developing by depending on Shwe Ta
Chaung Canal. As shown in Fig:(10,11), Nowadays, this zaycho market is a
significant place for Mandalay and this canal is polluted water drain. Its
environment change and develop depending on zaycho market. In this time,
zaycho and its surrounding area or Chan Aye Tharsan quarter becomes city
centre. Religious buildings of Buddhist and mosque can be seen at
surrounding area. Monasteries, Ein daw yar phayar (pagoda) and Thet kya
thiha phayar were there before zaycho market was constructed. In former, this
places were a little far from zaycho market. Nowadays, these places mix with
other buildings and markets because of the development of zaycho market.
And then, Zaycho taik tan (the rows of building), Zaycho Plaza, modern

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Zaycho building, Kain: tan market (the former, this place was grown by the
reed) develops in surrounding area of zaycho market. Hence, these markets
disturb the religious buildings such as monasteries and pagodas.

Figure 10. Surrounding Areas of Kain: Tan Market and Ein Daw Yar
Phayar (Pagoda)

MAN THIRI
MARKET

Figure 11. Zaycho Market and Its Surrounding Area

As shown in Fig:(12), High-rise buildings are built on the high-priced
land or downtown area by the developers. Some high-rise buildings are
established within compounds. As time past, the compound types disappeared
and the widths of streets become very narrow for people to pass way. For
example, most of the high-rise buildings have in taik tan compound (the rows
of building). Head band has over the narrow street in many blocks. Fire
fighting truck can not enter. It is very dangerous for fire emergency case.

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 Figure 12. Narrow Street and High-rise Buildings in Downtown Area

Moreover, Shin boe mae phayar (pagoda) was built at the entrance of
the former Khattiya village. But these phayar are surrounded by houses now.
The phayar compound does not have enough area to hold festivals. So, people
hold religious festivals on the road. Not only shops and markets but also hotels
and banks are built in this quarter.

5. Conclusion
In 1860, King Mindon transferred his capital to Mandalay which is 12
kilometers from Amarapura with his servants, counselors and urbanites. He
planned his new city systemically for the people. He considered for getting
water and built canals and gardens for people. He planned his city according to
the orientation. The monasteries and other religious buildings were placed in
the eastern part of his palace because the east was seen as the most honorable
point of the compass. Myanmar people always respect their religion. And then,
he planned people and markets by putting in its proper places. In those
markets, zaycho market reveals the tradition and culture of Mandalay citizens
since time long past. Hence, the existing conditions of zaycho market’s
surrounding area are studied and submitted because of the development of
zaycho market. The other places of city centre changed and developed because
hospitals, markets and shopping centers are built. The development of a city is
based on the important facts of the former city. In constructing modern urban
city, in accordance with social economic development, it is very important to
continue maintain cultural in heritages and ancient handiwork. Every country
or nationality should respect and reveal their country’s architecture, cultural
heritage and tradition.

6. References
[1] A Study on Urban Structure of Mandalay City. Research Paper
[2] A mar, Daw, The People, (November, 1993), Yadarnarbon Mandalay
[3] Maung Maung Tin, U. History of Mandalay Quarter. Research Paper
[4] Scott O’Connor, V.C., (1987), Mandalay and Other Cities of the Past in
Burma
[5] Tun Shein, Nat Mauk. (April, 2001), Kingdom was built with compounds

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