Spruce Socks

Originally Lovely
By Kaitlin Blasing
Pattern Description: This beautiful sock pattern is available in 4 sizes and features a slipped stitch
spruce tree detailing at the ankle. Let this pattern bring you a pair of festive socks during the holidays
or a unique detailed sock all throughout the colder months. Make for yourself or as a gift, these tiny
spruce trees are sure to bring happiness to both the maker and the wearer.

Skill Level: Intermediate +

You will need to know how to knit, purl, work in the round, increase, decrease, work simple cables,
pick up stitches, and graft with kitchener stitch.

Materials:
100g (330-450 yards) Fingering weight yarn (shown in Kenyarn Fingering in Sitka Spruce)
Size US 1 (2.25 mm) circular needle for Magic Loop Technique OR Double Pointed Needles
Stitch Markers
Tapestry Needle to weave in ends

Gauge:
32 stitches = 4” in stockinette stitch

Sizes:
S, (M, L, XL)
Finished foot measurement (foot circumference):
7, (8, 9, 10)”
Women’s sizing (approximate, based on US shoe sizes):
3-6, (6-9, 8-12, 12+)
Men’s sizing (approximate, based on US shoe sizes):
6-8, (8.5-10, 10.5-12, 12.5-14)
Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parenthesis. When only one
number is given, it applies to all sizes.

Additional Notes:
These socks are constructed one at a time from the top, down. Heel is shaped using a heel flap tech-
nique. If you are familiar with other sock techniques or have a favorite heel construction, you may
easily substitute. Careful attention must be given when you adjust for the heel flap to make sure your
tree detailing is positioned on the outer ankle of each sock.

Originally Lovely Page 1

By Kaitlin Blasing
Abbreviations:
Beg = beginning
CO = cast on
C1f = cable one front. Slip the next stitch onto a cable needle and hold in the front of your work, knit
the next stitch on your left needle, then knit the stitch off the cable needle.
C1b= cable one back. Slip the next stitch onto a cable needle and hold in the back of your work, knit
the next stitch on your left needle, then knit the stitch off the cable needle.
DPN= Double pointed needles
K= knit
Ktbl = knit through the back loop of the stitch
K2tog = knit 2 together (right leaning decrease)
M = stitch marker
M1R = make one right. Pick up the bar between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to
knit with your left needle from back to front, knit through the front.
M1L = make one left. Pick up the bar between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to knit
with your left needle from front to back, knit through the back.
P = purl
PM = place marker
P2tog = purl 2 together
Rep = repeat
Sl1 = slip one stitch purl-wise
Sl2 = slip the next two stitches purl-wise
Sl3 = slip the next three stitches purl-wise
SM = slip marker
Ssk= slip the next two stitches separately as if to knit, insert your left needle into the front loops of
these stitches and knit them together (left leaning decrease)
St = stitch
Stst= stockinette stitch

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS
Cast on 56, (64, 72, 80) sts. Join to work in round.
Work 10 rounds in knit 1, purl 1 rib stitch.
Work 8 rounds in stockinette stitch.
Rearrange needles so that you have 35 sts on the first needle and 21, (29, 37, 45) on the second
needle (if working magic loop technique). OR 35 sts on the first needle, 10, (14, 18, 22) on the
second, and 11, (15, 19, 23) sts on the third (if working on DPNs).

Begin Working Tree Pattern

Note: Tree pattern will be worked across the first 35 stitches (the first needle).
Round 1: k5, sl1, (k11, sl1), 2x, k to end of round.
2: knit.
3: as round 1.

Originally Lovely Page 2

By Kaitlin Blasing
4: k5, m1r, k1, m1l, (k11, m1r, k1, m1l) 2x, k to end of round. [62, (70, 78, 86) sts].
5: k5, sl3, (k11, sl3), 2x, k to end of round.
6: k4, c1b, k1, c1f, (k9, c1b, k1, c1f), 2x, k to end of round.
7: k4, sl1, k1, sl1, k1, sl1, (k9, sl1, k1, sl1, k1, sl1), 2x, k to end of round.
8: k3, k2tog, k1, m1r, k1, m1l, k1, ssk, (k7, k2tog, k1, m1r, k1, m1l, k1, ssk), 2x, k to end of round. [62,
(70, 78, 86) sts].
9: k5, sl3, (k11, sl3), 2x, k to end of round.
10: k4, c1b, k1, c1f, (k9, c1b, k1, c1f), 2x, k to end of round.
11: k4, sl1, k1, sl1, k1, sl1, (k9, sl1, k1, sl1, k1, sl1), 2x, k to end of round.
12: k3, c1b, k1, m1r, k1, m1l, k1, c1f, (k7, c1b, k1, m1r, k1, m1l, k1, c1f), 2x, k to end of round. [68,
(76, 84, 92) sts].
13: k3, sl1, k2, sl3, k2, sl1, (k7, sl1, k2, sl3, k2, sl1), 2x, k to end of round.
14: k2, k2tog, k1, c1b, k1, c1f, k1, ssk, (k5, k2tog, k1, c1b, k1, c1f, k1, ssk), 2x, k to end of round. [62,
(70, 78, 86) sts].
15: k4, sl1, k1, sl1, k1, sl1, (k9, sl1, k1, sl1, k1, sl1), 2x, k to end of round.
16: k3, c1b, k1, m1r, k1, m1l, k1, c1f, (k7, c1b, k1, m1r, k1, m1l, k1, c1f), 2x, k to end of round. [68,
(76, 84, 92) sts].
17: k3, sl1, k2, sl3, k2, sl1, (k7, sl1, k2, sl3, k2, sl1), 2x, k to end of round.
18: k2, c1b, k1, c1b, k1, c1f, k1, c1f, (k5, c1b, k1, c1b, k1, c1f, k1, c1f), 2x, k to end of round.
19: k2, sl1, k2, sl1, k1, sl1, k1, sl1, k2, sl1, (k5, sl1, k2, sl1, k1, sl1, k1, sl1, k2, sl1), 2x, k to end of
round.
20: k1, k2tog, k1, c1b, k3, c1f, k1, ssk, (k3, k2tog, k1, c1b, k3, c1f, k1, ssk), 2x, k to end of round. [62,
(70, 78, 86) sts].
21: k3, sl1, k2, sl1, k2, sl1, (k7, sl1, k2, sl1, k2, sl1), 2x, k to end of round.
22: k2, c1b, k5, c1f, (k5, c1b, k5, c1f), 2x, k to end of round.
23: k2, sl1, k3, sl1, k3, sl1, (k5, sl1, k3, sl1, k3, sl1), 2x, k to end of round.
24: k1, c1b, k7, c1f, (k3, c1b, k7, c1f), 2x, k to end of round.
25: k1, sl1, k4, sl1, k4, sl1, (k3, sl1, k4, sl1, k4, sl1), 2x, k to end of round.
26: k2tog, k9, ssk, (k1, k2tog, k9, ssk), 2x, k to end of round. [56, (64, 72, 80) sts].
27: k5, sl1, (k11, sl1), 2x, k to end of round.
28: knit.
29: as 27.

Originally Lovely Page 3

By Kaitlin Blasing
Continue working even in stockinette stitch until sock measures 6” from cast on edge. You may work
more/less at this point to make your sock taller/shorter.

Adjust for Heel Flap

You will need to follow the directions below once for the right foot and once for the left foot. This will
assure that your tree detailing is in the correct position on the outer ankle when you continue to shape
the heel and foot.
Right Foot:
On the next row: k42, (48, 54, 60), stop. This will be the new beginning/end of each round.
Adjust your needles at this point so that 28 (32, 36, 40) sts are on both the first and the second
needles (if working magic loop) OR 28, (32, 36, 40) sts are on your first needle and 14, (16, 18,
20) on both your second and third needles (if working with dpns).
Left Foot:
On the next row: k14, (16, 18, 20), stop. This will be the new beginning/end of each round.
Adjust your needles at this point so that 28, (32, 36, 40) sts are on both the first and the second
needles (if working magic loop) OR 28, (32, 36, 40) sts are on your first needle and 14, (16, 18,
20) on both your second and third needles (if working with dpns).

Heel Flap
The heel flap will be worked flat across the first 28, (32, 36, 40) sts.
Row 1 (RS): (sl1, k1) to end of row. Turn.
2 (WS): sl1, purl.
Repeat rows 1-2 13, (15, 17, 19) more times. There will now be 14, (16, 18, 20) slip sts along the side
of the heel flap.

Heel Turn
Row 1 (RS): sl1, k15, (17, 19, 21), ssk, k1, turn.
2 (WS): sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
3 (RS): sl1, k6, ssk, k1, turn.
4 (WS): sl1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
5 (RS): sl1, k8, ssk, k1, turn.
6 (WS): sl1, p9, p2tog, p1, turn.

Originally Lovely Page 4

By Kaitlin Blasing
Continue decreasing and turning as established until all heel sts have been worked. Final RS
decrease row will end with a ssk (no k1) and final WS decrease row will end with a p2tog (no p1). 16,
(18, 20, 22) sts remain.
Next, turn so that RS is facing, sl1, k across, PM. This M will now denote beg/end of each round.

Heel Gusset Set Up

Round 1: Using the slipped stitches to guide you, pick up 16, (18, 20, 22) sts along the edge of heel
flap, PM, k28, (32, 36, 40) sts across instep (the sts on top of foot, the ones you didn’t use for heel
flap), PM, pick up 16, (18, 20, 22) sts along the edge of heel flap, k to end of round. [76, (86, 96, 106)
sts].
2: ktbl to M, SM, k across instep to next M, SM, ktbl 16, (18, 20, 22) sts, k to end of round.

Heel Gusset
Round 1: k to 3 before M, k2tog, k1, SM, k across instep to next M, SM, k1, ssk, k to end of round.
2: knit.
Repeat rounds 1-2 until you are back to the original count of 56, (64, 72, 80) sts. Remove marker that
denotes beg/end of rounds. K to M before instep sts. This will now denote the beg/end of each round.

Adjust needles at this point so that the 28, (32, 36, 40) instep sts are on your first needle and the
remaining 28, (32, 36, 40) sts are on your second needle (if working magic loop) OR so stitches are
nearly evenly spaced according to your preference with M denoting beg/end of rounds and another M
denoting halfway point of round (if working DPNs).

Continue working in stockinette stitch until the foot of your sock measures 1.5” less than the desired
length.

Toe Decreases (Magic Loop only):

Round 1: k1, ssk, k to 3 before end of first needle, k2tog, k1, switch needles, k1, ssk, k to 3 before end
of round, k2tog, k1.
2: knit.
Repeat rounds 1-2 seven more times. [24, (32, 40, 48) sts].
Then, repeat round 1 twice more. [16, (24, 32, 40) sts].

Originally Lovely Page 5

By Kaitlin Blasing
Toe Decreases (DPNs only):
Round 1: k1, ssk, k to 3 before M, k2tog, k1, SM, k1, ssk, k to 3 before end of round, k2tog, k1.
2: knit.
Repeat rounds 1-2 seven more times. [24, (32, 40, 48) sts].
Then, repeat round 1 twice more. [16, (24, 32, 40) sts].

Finishing
Arrange needles so that you have the first half the stitches on one needle, and the other half on a
second needle.
Graft toe closed using Kitchener stitch.
Weave in ends and block to finish.

For questions, please email kaitlin@originallylovely.com

I’d love to see your finished work! Share on social media using the hashtag #originallylovely or by
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Originally Lovely Page 6

By Kaitlin Blasing