WEAVING TECHNOLOGY
Woven Fabrics
process of interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles.
Yarns lie along the vertical direction are warp yarns while
those lie to the horizontal direction are weft threads.
Yarn Preparation woven fabric
Good yarn preparation is important for efficiency and fabric quality.
Yarns from spinning machine is not suitable for direct use to form fabrics.
The warp yarns subjected to higher stresses than the weft yarns.
Therefore, the preparations of warp and weft yarns are different.
Process flow chart of yarn from spinning to weaving
Winding process:
Transfer of yarn from one form of package to another but, under
proper tension and in proper manner(remove yarn faults)
Warping
Many warp yarns are processed together to produce a warp beam.
Yarn cones are placed on the creel and wound side-by-side under
uniform tension to produce a large parallel warp beam.
Sizing or slashing process
Although many faults of the warp yarns are removed at winding
and warping, the yarns are not yet good enough to withstand
the abrasive actions at weaving.
The yarn is coated with sizing with the help of slasher machine.
The sized yarns are then wound on a final warp beam and are
ready for the loom.
Objectives of sizing:
To increase the strength of yarn
To get the required number of ends
To cover the hairiness of yarn
To make yarn surface smooth and pliable.
To maintain flexibility in yarn
Drawing-in and Tying-in:
Drawing-in is the process of threading each warp yarn through the drop wire,
heddles and the reed.
Tying-in is the cutting-off of the old warp and end-to-end tying of the yarns from
the new beam .
Basic motions of a weaving machine
Basic motions of weving
To produce woven fabric, three operations are necessary
1.Shedding
Lifting of some of warp yarns to divide in to two
sheets. This creates an opening (shed) between them.
2.Picking
Passing the weft thread through the shed
3.Beating up
Pushing the newly inserted pick in to the already
woven fabric.
Weaving and Woven Fabric
The interlacing of warp and weft yarns is
accomplished with a machine known as ‘loom’
They may be a hand loom or a power loom
The power loom is referred as the weaving machine
Selvage
Two salvages parallel to warp yarn direction
or length direction .
How do you identify the length direction of a
sample without selvages?
Select the direction with high yarn density.
How to decide the warp direction
In warp direction no. threads per inch is high.
Warp yarns have high twist.
Warp yarns finer (less count) than weft –yarns.
Warp yarns have less crimp.
warp yarns are filaments out of spun and filament
plied yarn is probably warp for single and plied yarns
Size particles are available at warp yarns
Terms related woven fabrics.
Warp yarn - Set of lengthwise yarns
Weft yarn - Set of crosswise yarns
End/ends - Single lengthwise yarn/yarns
Pick/picks - Single crosswise yarn/yarns
GSM- Weight in grams value of a fabric per square meter
Warp count – Thickness of warp yarn
Weft count- thickness of weft yarn
Weave- Interlacing pattern of warp and weft yarns
Fabric density- Total number of warp and weft yarns in a square area.
Fabric Notation
Standard method of indicating important parameters of woven fabric.
Warp yarn count X Weft yarn count , width, composition, weave,
finishes
Warp density X weft density
Ex: 30 s X 20 s , 60”, 65% 35% Polyester/cotton, twill, soft finish
108 X 60
Woven fabric quality parameters
Warp yarn=ends
Weft yarn =Picks
Ends per Inch – E.P.I.
Picks per Inch – P.P.I.
With high E.P.I. and P.P.I., fabric will be more strong, thicker
and heavier.
Fabric construction parameters and characteristics.
Constructional parameters
Fibre composition
Warp count / Weft count
EPI /PPI
Weave
GSm
Cut table width
Characteristics of woven fabric
Strength
Strechability
Thickness
Dimensional stability
Drapability
Hand feel
Crease recovery
