---------------------RXN METHAMPHETAMINE #3 ---------------------This reaction is brought about the same as every other push/pull RXN.
You have t o know how to extract psuedoephedrine(E) and clean it, you have to know how to extract the red phosphorus(RP) off matchbooks (or where ever you get it from), and how to prope rly clean the red phosphorus. you must also know how to clean up youriodine(I2) to a prop er grade. I am not going to go into how to do these procedures as they are covered in sep erate pages. with this easy to follow synth, I will start at mixing the reactants and where to go from there. What you will need: 1.Flask with nipple connection 2.Stopper (that fits the flask) 3.Electric Burner 4.Candy Thermometer 5.1and 1/2ft. of plastic tubing to fit on the nipple of your flask 6.Separatory Funnel 7.Chemical Resistant latex gloves 8.Visionware Glass Bowl or pot. 9.Regular cooking pot 10.Distilled H2O 11.RedDevil Lye 12.Hydrocloric acid (Muriatic Acid) 13.Duct Tape 14.Litmus Paper 15.Non-Polar Solvent (Colemans Fuel, Toluene...) Ok here is how it goes. Use the 1 part E, to 1.2 parts I2, to .8 parts RP ratio for reactions under 1oz. So for example you would use 10g of E, 12g of I2, and 8g o f RP. First take the RP and the E and mix well in a plastic baggie. Take this and pour it i nto your flask, covering the bottom of it. Next pour in your I2 and close with a solid r ubber stopper. Duct tape this on so it dont pop off during the reaction. you should a ll ready have your foot and a half of plastic tubing secured onto the nipple of the flas k, and a pair of your chemical resistant gloves on. After you get the 3 goodies mixed in the bottom
of the flask you will want to hold the end of the tubing closed with your thumb. (gloves on!) Sit back and watch it start to react. Sometimes it will react right away and som etimes not. Just watch and see. It will start turning to a muddy texture, and then to a liq uid. Every once and a while release pressure in the flask by moving your thumb.now it will not always turn liquid before the cook. not totally liquid anyway. Just sit back releasing pressure when it gets great and wait for the reaction to really slow down. Alright, everything going good so far? Not too hard heh? Now you will want to c ook the reaction to get it going again. Before you start all of this put your regular c ooking pot on your electric burner and find out where the dial is at 150F. So turn on your burner and set it at 150F. Put your cooking pot with a little water or vegetable oil i n the bottom on the burner, and put your flask in that. after a few minutes this bitch will really get cookin. It will start bubbling and the mixture will expand. All in all it is go ing to start to get a little crazy. Every few minutes pick up the flask and shakeand stir it up a little. And usually release a little pressure every shake or every other shake. You wil l be able to feel the pressure building up on your thumb. When it gets bad release a little Just keep this going for while. You will want to slowly turn up the heat to abo ut 180F over a 20 minute period. The push part of the reaction will keep going for about 20 minutes to 45 minutes. It usually lasted for about half an hour in my dreams. You will know w hen to stop
cooking when the push stops. (when no more gas is being pushed out of the flask . When this has occured be sure to keep your thunb over the tubing and take the flask out o f the pot and just set it on the counter. From this point on, you are going to keep your thum b tightly over the tubing until the flask has cooled down. During the cooling you want to pick up the flask with your other hand and stir and shake the ingredients in the flask every few minutes. It will probaly take about 20 minutes (if that) for the flask to cool down. You wa nt it to be cool enough to hold in your hand with out burning yourself. You will feel the p ull start as your vessel cools down. it will be trying to suck air back into the flask now. You are aloud a very little bit of air into the flask but not much at all. Remember to keep s tirring and shaking the flask during the cooling. When the flask has cooled down to a suitable state, (keeping your thumb over th e tubing still) stick your thumb and the end of the tubing into a bowl of distilled H20 and release. The vacuum in the flask will pull water into the flask. Dont let to much into t he flask just a little. now pull the tubing out of the water and let it suck air into the tub ing. Thats it. thats the reaction. not to hard hey? Now lets clean up that chilli. All ready s melling success? wait and see. Shake up the chilli/H20 in the flask, take off the duct tape and the stopper, a nd pour directly into the clean visionware bowl. now pour a little more distilled water into empty flask (just a little) and shake up real good. this is just to get out the rest of what ever is left in the flask. put the bowl on the burner and turn on high. bring to a b oil while stirring with a clean plastic spoon. This will get the some chilli that is stuc k on the RP off of it. turn of burner and let sit for a minute or two. be sure to save all your RP so you can wash it and reuse it later. While this is cooling off a little, grab your funnel and put in 3 coffee filter s and stuff a cotton ball in the tip of the funnel. put this over a clean glass jar. now po ur everything that is in the visionware bowl into the funnel. it will take a while to filter because of the RP. once all the meth water is filtered through, into the glass jar, pour i t back through
the same filters (with the RP in it) again. you will want to do this at least 4 times. just keep pouring it through the same filter/cottonballs. now it should have a yello wish collor, but not foggy at all. it should be very clear. Pour this into your separatory funnel, and add just a little ice. now pour in a little colemans fuel (or toluene). add a little less than the amount of water/meth you have in there. now slowly add a little lye to the sep. funnel, and shake well. drop a s mall drip onto your litmus paper to test the Ph. (you will be testing the water/meth laye r, NOT the colemans fuel layer) you want the Ph to be 12. (yellow) if it is not a Ph of 12 then add a little more lye and shake the hell out of it and test again. keep doing this ti ll it test out at 12. After it test at 12 drop in a tablespoon of table salt, and shake we ll. Now we are going to seperate the layers in the funnel. We want to keep the NP Solvent (Colemans), not the water/lye layer. Put the water layer in a jar and set aside. you can test for meth later. Keep t he colemans fuel/meth in the seperatory funnel. microwave a big glass of new distilled H2O till it is hot. pour in one third the amount of water (compared to the colemans) and shake well. drain the water out. repeat this 4 times. you are washing the NP Solvent. now once ag ain, add one third the amount of water to the sep. funnel and drop in a few drops of Hcl. (M uriatic Acid Shake for a few minutes. t it to test at 7.2 or at least close shake the hell out of it again and layer into your visionware bowl and h a hairdryer then test the ph of the ph of the water layer. you wan to that. if it doesnt, add a few more drops of Hcl and test again. after it is the proper ph, drain the water put it on the burner and boil down. you can finish wit
if you want. now go back to your colemans fuel in the seperatory funnel and add a little more distilled water. we are going to do a second pull on the non-polar solvent . add a few more drops of Hcl and shake it up again. test the ph again. looking for 7.2 aga in. once you reach 7.2 again drain your meth/water into your clean visionware bowl (you shou ld have already scraped out the crystals from the last pull that you all ready evaporat ed. now evaporate again. remember that if your not in a hurry, evaporating it with a ha ir dryer will increase yeilds. Some chefs even do a third pull. Thats it. you now have clean and pure crystal meth. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------RXN METHAMPHETAMINE #4 ---------------------List of chemicals and materials: Diluted HCl - also called Muriatic acid - can be obtained from hardware stores, in the pool section NaOH - also called lye Ethyl Ether - aka Diethyl Ether - Et-0-Et - can be obtained from engine starting fluid, usually from a large supermarket. Look for one that says "high ethyl ether cont ent", such as Prestone Ephedrine The cottons in todays vicks nasle inhalers dont contain e fed or pfed (ephedrin or psuedoephedrin) but there are still lots of easy ways to get good ephed or pfed, pure ephedrin can be extracted out of it's plant matter, from a plant that can be bought at
most garden stores. Or you can get pfed from decongestive pills like sudafed. Mo st people perfer to work with pfed from pills rather then ephed from the plant. The import ant thing is that you must have pure pfed/ephed as any contaminants will fuck up the molar r atio leaving you with over-reduced shit or under-reduced shit. Or contaminats will jell durr ing baseifying and gak up your product which will then be very hard to clean. So you want to f ind a pill that is nearly pure pfed hcl, or as close to pure as you can get. Also check th e lable on your pills and see what inactive ingredients they contain. Inactive ingredients are things like binders and flavors. These you dont want and will remove when cleaning you r pills. but certain inactive ingredients are harder to remove then others. You dont want pi lls with a red coating, you dont want pills with alot of cellose in them and you dont want pills with much wax. you also dont want pills that contain povidone. As a rule, if you hav e a two pills that contain the same amount of pfed hcl then take the smaller sized pill becau se it obviously has less binders and inactive ingredients, time released pills are us ualy harder to work with because they have more binders and tend to gel up durring the a/b stage. Also only buy pills that have pfed hcl as the only active ingredient. You first have to make ephedrine (which is sometimes sold as meth by itself):If you are selling it...I would just make ephedrine and say it's meth. Distilled water - it's really cheap, so you have no reason to use the nasty stu ff from the tap. Do things right. List of equipment: A glass eyedropper Three small glass bottles with lids (approx. 3 oz., but not important)one should be marked at 1.5oz, use tape on the outside to mark it (you might want to label it as ethe r). One should be clear (and it can't be the marked one). A Pyrex dish (the meatloaf one is suggested) A glass quart jar Sharp scissors Clean rubber gloves
Coffee filters A measuring cup Measuring spoons Preparing Ethyl Ether: WARNING: Ethyl Ether is very flammable and is heavier than air. Do not use ethy l ether near flame or non-sparkless motors. It is also an anaesthetic and can cause respirat ory collapse if you inhale too much. Take the unmarked small bottle and spray starter fluid in it until it looks half -full. Then fill the rest of the way with water, cap the bottle and shake for 5 minutes. Let it sit for
---------------------RXN METHAMPHETAMINE #3 ---------------------This reaction is brought about the same as every other push/pull RXN. You have t o know how to extract psuedoephedrine(E) and clean it, you have to know how to extract the red phosphorus(RP) off matchbooks (or where ever you get it from), and how to prope rly clean the red phosphorus. you must also know how to clean up youriodine(I2) to a prop er grade. I am not going to go into how to do these procedures as they are covered in sep erate pages. with this easy to follow synth, I will start at mixing the reactants and where to go from there. What you will need: 1.Flask with nipple connection
2.Stopper (that fits the flask) 3.Electric Burner 4.Candy Thermometer 5.1and 1/2ft. of plastic tubing to fit on the nipple of your flask 6.Separatory Funnel 7.Chemical Resistant latex gloves 8.Visionware Glass Bowl or pot. 9.Regular cooking pot 10.Distilled H2O 11.RedDevil Lye 12.Hydrocloric acid (Muriatic Acid) 13.Duct Tape 14.Litmus Paper 15.Non-Polar Solvent (Colemans Fuel, Toluene...) Ok here is how it goes. Use the 1 part E, to 1.2 parts I2, to .8 parts RP ratio for reactions under 1oz. So for example you would use 10g of E, 12g of I2, and 8g o f RP. First take the RP and the E and mix well in a plastic baggie. Take this and pour it i nto your flask, covering the bottom of it. Next pour in your I2 and close with a solid r ubber stopper. Duct tape this on so it dont pop off during the reaction. you should a ll ready have your foot and a half of plastic tubing secured onto the nipple of the flas k, and a pair of your chemical resistant gloves on. After you get the 3 goodies mixed in the bottom
of the flask you will want to hold the end of the tubing closed with your thumb. (gloves on!) Sit back and watch it start to react. Sometimes it will react right away and som etimes not. Just watch and see. It will start turning to a muddy texture, and then to a liq
uid. Every once and a while release pressure in the flask by moving your thumb.now it will not always turn liquid before the cook. not totally liquid anyway. Just sit back releasing pressure when it gets great and wait for the reaction to really slow down. Alright, everything going good so far? Not too hard heh? Now you will want to c ook the reaction to get it going again. Before you start all of this put your regular c ooking pot on your electric burner and find out where the dial is at 150F. So turn on your burner and set it at 150F. Put your cooking pot with a little water or vegetable oil i n the bottom on the burner, and put your flask in that. after a few minutes this bitch will really get cookin. It will start bubbling and the mixture will expand. All in all it is go ing to start to get a little crazy. Every few minutes pick up the flask and shakeand stir it up a little. And usually release a little pressure every shake or every other shake. You wil l be able to feel the pressure building up on your thumb. When it gets bad release a little Just keep this going for while. You will want to slowly turn up the heat to abo ut 180F over a 20 minute period. The push part of the reaction will keep going for about 20 minutes to 45 minutes. It usually lasted for about half an hour in my dreams. You will know w hen to stop cooking when the push stops. (when no more gas is being pushed out of the flask . When this has occured be sure to keep your thunb over the tubing and take the flask out o f the pot and just set it on the counter. From this point on, you are going to keep your thum b tightly over the tubing until the flask has cooled down. During the cooling you want to pick up the flask with your other hand and stir and shake the ingredients in the flask every few minutes. It will probaly take about 20 minutes (if that) for the flask to cool down. You wa nt it to be cool enough to hold in your hand with out burning yourself. You will feel the p ull start as your vessel cools down. it will be trying to suck air back into the flask now. You are aloud a very little bit of air into the flask but not much at all. Remember to keep s tirring and shaking the flask during the cooling. When the flask has cooled down to a suitable state, (keeping your thumb over th e tubing still) stick your thumb and the end of the tubing into a bowl of distilled H20 and release. The vacuum in the flask will pull water into the flask. Dont let to much into t he flask just
a little. now pull the tubing out of the water and let it suck air into the tub ing. Thats it. thats the reaction. not to hard hey? Now lets clean up that chilli. All ready s melling success? wait and see. Shake up the chilli/H20 in the flask, take off the duct tape and the stopper, a nd pour directly into the clean visionware bowl. now pour a little more distilled water into empty flask (just a little) and shake up real good. this is just to get out the rest of what ever is left in the flask. put the bowl on the burner and turn on high. bring to a b oil while stirring with a clean plastic spoon. This will get the some chilli that is stuc k on the RP off of it. turn of burner and let sit for a minute or two. be sure to save all your RP so you can wash it and reuse it later. While this is cooling off a little, grab your funnel and put in 3 coffee filter s and stuff a cotton ball in the tip of the funnel. put this over a clean glass jar. now po ur everything that is in the visionware bowl into the funnel. it will take a while to filter because of the RP. once all the meth water is filtered through, into the glass jar, pour i t back through
the same filters (with the RP in it) again. you will want to do this at least 4 times. just keep pouring it through the same filter/cottonballs. now it should have a yello wish collor, but not foggy at all. it should be very clear. Pour this into your separatory funnel, and add just a little ice. now pour in a little colemans fuel (or toluene). add a little less than the amount of water/meth you have in there. now slowly add a little lye to the sep. funnel, and shake well. drop a s mall drip
onto your litmus paper to test the Ph. (you will be testing the water/meth laye r, NOT the colemans fuel layer) you want the Ph to be 12. (yellow) if it is not a Ph of 12 then add a little more lye and shake the hell out of it and test again. keep doing this ti ll it test out at 12. After it test at 12 drop in a tablespoon of table salt, and shake we ll. Now we are going to seperate the layers in the funnel. We want to keep the NP Solvent (Colemans), not the water/lye layer. Put the water layer in a jar and set aside. you can test for meth later. Keep t he colemans fuel/meth in the seperatory funnel. microwave a big glass of new distilled H2O till it is hot. pour in one third the amount of water (compared to the colemans) and shake well. drain the water out. repeat this 4 times. you are washing the NP Solvent. now once ag ain, add one third the amount of water to the sep. funnel and drop in a few drops of Hcl. (M uriatic Acid Shake for a few minutes. then test the ph of the ph of the water layer. you wan t it to test at 7.2 or at least close to that. if it doesnt, add a few more drops of Hcl and shake the hell out of it again and test again. after it is the proper ph, drain the water layer into your visionware bowl and put it on the burner and boil down. you can finish wit h a hairdryer if you want. now go back to your colemans fuel in the seperatory funnel and add a little more distilled water. we are going to do a second pull on the non-polar solvent . add a few more drops of Hcl and shake it up again. test the ph again. looking for 7.2 aga in. once you reach 7.2 again drain your meth/water into your clean visionware bowl (you shou ld have already scraped out the crystals from the last pull that you all ready evaporat ed. now evaporate again. remember that if your not in a hurry, evaporating it with a ha ir dryer will increase yeilds. Some chefs even do a third pull. Thats it. you now have clean and pure crystal meth. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------RXN METHAMPHETAMINE #4 ---------------------List of chemicals and materials: Diluted HCl - also called Muriatic acid - can be obtained from hardware stores, in the
pool section NaOH - also called lye Ethyl Ether - aka Diethyl Ether - Et-0-Et - can be obtained from engine starting fluid, usually from a large supermarket. Look for one that says "high ethyl ether cont ent", such as Prestone Ephedrine The cottons in todays vicks nasle inhalers dont contain e fed or pfed (ephedrin or psuedoephedrin) but there are still lots of easy ways to get good ephed or pfed, pure ephedrin can be extracted out of it's plant matter, from a plant that can be bought at
most garden stores. Or you can get pfed from decongestive pills like sudafed. Mo st people perfer to work with pfed from pills rather then ephed from the plant. The import ant thing is that you must have pure pfed/ephed as any contaminants will fuck up the molar r atio leaving you with over-reduced shit or under-reduced shit. Or contaminats will jell durr ing baseifying and gak up your product which will then be very hard to clean. So you want to f ind a pill that is nearly pure pfed hcl, or as close to pure as you can get. Also check th e lable on your pills and see what inactive ingredients they contain. Inactive ingredients are things like binders and flavors. These you dont want and will remove when cleaning you r pills. but certain inactive ingredients are harder to remove then others. You dont want pi lls with a red coating, you dont want pills with alot of cellose in them and you dont want pills with much wax. you also dont want pills that contain povidone. As a rule, if you hav e a two pills
that contain the same amount of pfed hcl then take the smaller sized pill becau se it obviously has less binders and inactive ingredients, time released pills are us ualy harder to work with because they have more binders and tend to gel up durring the a/b stage. Also only buy pills that have pfed hcl as the only active ingredient. You first have to make ephedrine (which is sometimes sold as meth by itself):If you are selling it...I would just make ephedrine and say it's meth. Distilled water - it's really cheap, so you have no reason to use the nasty stu ff from the tap. Do things right. List of equipment: A glass eyedropper Three small glass bottles with lids (approx. 3 oz., but not important)one should be marked at 1.5oz, use tape on the outside to mark it (you might want to label it as ethe r). One should be clear (and it can't be the marked one). A Pyrex dish (the meatloaf one is suggested) A glass quart jar Sharp scissors Clean rubber gloves Coffee filters A measuring cup Measuring spoons Preparing Ethyl Ether: WARNING: Ethyl Ether is very flammable and is heavier than air. Do not use ethy l ether near flame or non-sparkless motors. It is also an anaesthetic and can cause respirat ory collapse if you inhale too much. Take the unmarked small bottle and spray starter fluid in it until it looks half -full. Then fill the rest of the way with water, cap the bottle and shake for 5 minutes. Let it sit for