Climbing Manual Guide Beginners
Climbing Manual Guide Beginners
SPORT CLIMBING
EN
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CLIMBING PASSION:
TRUE PASSION CAN ONLY GROW.
The brand Climbing Technology embraces and enhances over 30 years of passionate
life and experience in the design and production of personal protective equipment. An
accomplice has definitely been the territory, at the foot of the mountains between Bergamo
and Lecco, where the mountaineering tradition is very strong, we settled here and set
about developing our skills in metalwork and mechanics.
In these years we have breathed and developed an extensive know how and combined with
the latest generation of manufacturing technology it has enabled us to design and produce
devices in order to excel in the vertical disciplines: in the mountains (mountaineering
and sport climbing), in a professional environment (working at height, working on a
rope, rescue) and in a recreational environment (via ferrata and adventure parks). The
specialised diversification and constant research of new materials and new processing
techniques are essential for reaching the new goals: they allow us to create devices that
meet the most advanced technical and sporting requirements.
Every day we pursue three objectives: safety, functionality and simplicity. These are
objectives that cannot disregard European regulations and technical standards, products
certifications and quality management systems. We know that in order to excel, we must
go further, stimulating and directing the whole team, inside and outside of the company,
to collaborate in the realisation and the distribution of our devices.
We have learnt that in the mountains, as well as in some work situations, we are exposed
to serious dangers: in the context in which we operate there are hidden pitfalls that must
be carefully examined. However that on its own is not enough: those who climb must be
aware of their capabilities and their limitations. And ultimately they must equip themselves
with the appropriate equipment. Our devices are born with the objective to protect and
reduce the risk in case of an accident or a fall. All of us at Climbing Technology are aware
and every day we feel proudly committed to give confidence and security to the users of
our equipment. Always underlining the importance of the “head” of the user.
1
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S. Leoni, Euskal, Albenga (Italy) K. Dell’Orto - Climbing Technology
PRACTICAL
EXPLANATIONS
Objective: training
These pages are devoted to a topic that has always been close to our heart: creating a trai-
ning module, illustrative and centred on the use of our products. This is not intended to be
a manual nor to substitute a formal climbing course, but simply to give our customers, and
friends, a summary of the main activities involved in climbing and mountaineering.
For us, safety is a constant, absolute “must”. This attitude drives us to invent, produce and
sell products which are safe. A safe product isn’t just one which functions correctly and which
meets the legal standards: a safe product is functional, logical, ergonomic, long-lasting,
easy to use, error-proof, well-designed and attractive to look at. A product is safe only if all
its applications and advantages are explained in details and made readily available to the
user. As well as our articles, our products are sold with clear instructions which can be eas-
ily downloaded from our website. For the same reason, we have committed to providing all
users of our products with some supplementary technical content, and a section of it lays now
in your hands.
Focus: crag
The topic of this booklet is sport climbing in crags: a type of climbing that is normally carried
out on equipped routes, easily identified and accessible to climbers. This section describes the
main scenarios that you may be facing during a day at the crag, with our recommendations
for the safe and best use of your equipment.
All manoeuvres show the use of Climbing Technology most suitable equipment for the specific
context. In particular, you will appreciate the focus on some particular products that stand out
for their innovative nature:
• Click Up+ - belay device for crag and indoor climbing;
• Nimble Fixbar Set - quickdraws with anti-rotating holder;
• Tricky - auxiliary system to clip the carabiner into far hard-to-reach anchors.
Note.
The diagrams and explanations that follow are not exhaustive and are not intended to substi-
tute appropriate theoretical and practical training.
3
K. Dell’Orto - Climbing Technology
L. Bana, Gumbi, Toirano (Italy)
Not exhaustive information: always consult the user’s instructions of each device and the technical manuals.
Attention! It is essential to possess a proper technical education.
SINGLE-PITCH
SPORT
CLIMBING
“Sport climbing” means climbing with already-existing
fixed protection points, so as to guarantee the maximum
safety in case of a fall. Most (but not all) sport climbing is
on single-pitch routes whose length is up 35/40 m. The
routes are bolted by enthusiasts or in some cases by peo-
ple whose job it is to bolt the routes.
5
1 - NECESSARY EQUIPMENT
Helmet. Harness.
Protects your head Used to connect
against falling the climber to
rocks and/or possi- the rope and
ble impact with the supports her in
rock if you fall. case of a fall
or when being
lowered-off.
AERIAL PRO SG WARLOCK HMS ALP LOOP 60 SPORT CHAIN VIBE FLASH
Not exhaustive information: always consult the user’s instructions of each device and the technical manuals.
6 Attention! It is essential to possess a proper technical education.
TECHNICAL BOOKLET
SPORT CLIMBING
2 - CLIMBING SEQUENCE
LEADING.
1 - Buddy check.
A checks that B has correctly con-
nected the belay device to his har-
ness and passed the rope correctly
through the belay device. B checks
A’s knot.
2 - Leading.
B belays, paying out rope to A
who climbs up the route, clipping
a quickdraw onto each bolt and
the rope into the quickdraw.
3 - At the belay.
A has arrived at the end of the
route and has threaded the rope
through the lower-off.
4 - Lowering-off.
B pays out the rope through the
belay device to lower A back down
to the ground.
B A
TOP-ROPING.
1 - Climbing top-rope.
After the buddy check, B climbs the
route, removing the quickdraws as
she climbs while A progressively
takes in the rope so that she is be-
layed safely.
2 - At the belay.
B has reached the belay and is
ready to be lowered-off.
3 - Lowering-off.
A pays out the rope through the
belay device to lower B back down B
to the ground.
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3 - PREPARING TO CLIMB
Two people are need to sport climb, one who
climbs (A) and the other who belays (B). Be-
fore starting climbing, a series of actions ensure
safety:
• A and B choose the route to climb and verify B
that the rope has an adequate length, i.e. at least
twice the length of the route; A
• A feeds the rope into an orderly pile on the
rope bag, making sure there are no knots. She
ties a knot in the end of the rope;
• A and B put on their harnesses and helmets CLICK
correctly; !
• A ties the rope into her harness with a figure of
eight knot while B connects the belay device to
his harness and passes the rope into it;
• A and B carry out a Buddy Check.
Buddy check.
The Buddy Check is the last and very important
part of preparing to climb, and the safety of the
team depends on it:
• B checks the belay device is functioning cor-
rectly and A makes sure he does this correctly;
• B checks A has tied the rope correctly to her
harness with her figure of eight knot;
• B makes sure that A has everything she needs
to complete the climbing route (quickdraws,
carabiners, webbing/rope sling or daisy chain);
• A starts to climb, and B belays her.
1 2 3
4 5 6
Harnesses for sport climbing are normally equipped with a single Before climbing, you need to:
fastening buckle on the waistbelt and either fixed or adjustable leg • properly don waistbelt and leg loops;
loops. Models with fixed leg loops are ideal for beginners, for indoor • adjust the strap in order to make the waistbelt fit properly, using the
use or for those who are looking for a lightweight harness which is not fastening and adjustment buckles (Fig. 1). Where present, adjust
cumbersome while in use. Models with adjustable leg loops are inste- the leg loop buckles (Fig. 2);
ad ideal for experienced users who make good use of their versatile • verify that the harness has a snug fit over the body without being
nature, during all seasons of the year. When purchasing the harness, too tight (Fig. 3) and that waistbelt and leg loops are positioned at
it is very important to choose the size that fits you properly. the correct height (Fig. 4÷6).
Not exhaustive information: always consult the user’s instructions of each device and the technical manuals.
8 Attention! It is essential to possess a proper technical education.
TECHNICAL BOOKLET
SPORT CLIMBING
m2c
10÷1
The figure of eight knot is the safest
and easiest to tie knot for attaching the
rope to the climber’s harness. To tie it
follow the steps shown in the diagram to
the left making sure that the rope pass-
es through both the waist loop and the
loop joining the leg loops. Make sure
the knot is tied correctly and at least 10-
12 cm of free end of the rope is left stick-
ing out.
1 11
2 22
3 33
Installation. Insert a screw-gate carabiner into the harness’s belay Functional test. Hold the free end of the rope with one hand and with
loop, lift the plate through the rope and insert it into the device, the other pull the climber’s rope upwards. Make sure the Click Up+
making reference to the indicated drawings. Insert the screw-gate blocks the rope, making the distinctive “Click” sound.
carabiner through the device then screw up the gate.
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4 - BELAYING THE LEADER
Belaying the leader involves paying out rope through the belay device to the
leader (A), holding the rope in case of a fall and then lowering the leader
back to the ground once she has climbed the route. This lets the leader climb
the route in safety.
To belay well, the belayer (B) should: A
• be able to use the belay device properly;
• belay themselves to the ground/nearby crag if they are much lighter than
the leader (A) or if there is a risk of them falling off an exposed ledge from
which they are belaying; B
• pay constant attention to the leader (A) as she climbs and stand as close
in as possible to the rock;
• never let go of the free end of the rope;
• not pay out to the climber (A) more rope than is necessary and be ready
to take-in slack rapidly if needed;
• be ready to hold the companion (A) is she falls and lower her to the
ground as indicated in the instructions of the belay device used.
When sport climbing it is common to use a belay device with assisted brak-
ing to belay the leader. Belay devices with assisted braking are popular be-
cause, in the case of a fall, they automatically lock the rope provided the
free end of the rope is held. The devices currently on the market do not
always work perfectly in the following situations:
• paying out rope quickly to the leader without the rope jamming;
• they are dangerous if the rope is inserted incorrectly.
Our Click Up+ belay device overcomes these disadvantages, thanks to its
special design:
• it lets you pay out rope very quickly, without the device jamming;
• reduced chance of errors for incorrect handling of the rope when braking,
thanks to the V-Proof System (Patent Pending, pag 22);
• it is very safe because, even if the rope is inserted incorrectly, it still lets
you arrest a fall and lower the climber to the ground.
Click Up+ can be used with single ropes of diameter Ø 8.5÷11 mm.
Not exhaustive information: always consult the user’s instructions of each device and the technical manuals.
10 Attention! It is essential to possess a proper technical education.
TECHNICAL BOOKLET
SPORT CLIMBING
To start paying out again rope to the climber after she has hung on the Use the Click Up+ in locking mode. With one hand pull the free end
rope or after a fall, keep holding the free end of the rope with one hand of the rope through the Click Up+, with the other feed the rope from
and with the other hold the Click Up+ and lift it upwards, so as to re- the climber into the device. Using the device in this way is very safe be-
turn the belay karabiner to its initial position. This unblocks the device cause the climber is constantly belayed with the rope in tension and the
and you can pay out rope again. Click Up+ in locking mode.
Lowering the other climber. Lowering the other climber even if used incorrectly.
Take in rope and lock the Click Up+. Keeping one hand all the time If the rope is inserted incorrectly (the wrong way round, or the Click Up+
on the free end of the rope, with the other hold the Click Up+ as upside-down) the device still permits you to lower the climber safely to the
shown in the diagram and with the palm of the hand push the corner ground. Keeping firmly hold of the free end of the rope, position it in the brak-
of the device downwards. Feed the free end of the rope into the de- ing groove and slowly release rope towards the Click Up+ until the climber
vice. When the climber is on the ground, unblock the device. is on the ground.
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L. Bana, S. Leoni, Gumbi, Toirano (Italy) K. Dell’Orto - Climbing Technology
12
TECHNICAL BOOKLET
SPORT CLIMBING
CLICK UP+
Click Up+ is a manual-braking belay device specifically designed for indoor and crag
climbing. It is equipped with V-Proof, the innovative system that reduces the chance of
error due to incorrect handling of the rope while braking.
V-Proof System
When climbing, some processes are especially critical (like taking-in and paying-out
rope to the leader, or taking-in slack when top-roping): in the event of a fall, the “V”-
shaped angle between the two sections of the rope has to be maintained. A reduction
in the value of this angle can affect the proper functioning of the device when locking
the rope. The V-Proof System reduces the chance of error due to an incorrect
reduction of the V-angle between the two strands of the rope.
Operating principles
The V-Proof System consists of a mobile partition that enhances the activation of the
assisted-braking system. If during the fall of the climber the braking-hand side of the
rope comes into contact with the mobile partition (Fig. 2), this pressure contributes to
the rotation of the device and to the consequent locking on the rope (Fig. 3).
The V-Proof mobile partition does not interfere with the insertion of the rope and it
keeps the two sections of rope separate (Fig. 1). The symbols on the partition also
indicate how to correctly position the rope sections.
1 2 3
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5 - LEADING
“Leading” is when the climber (A) climbs up the route using the natural
hand- and footholds present in the rock and clipping the rope into the
quickdraws clipped onto the bolts to protect herself in case of a fall. In
order to climb safety the leader (A) should:
• be correctly tied into the rope and the belayer (B) should belay at-
tentively;
• be aware of her own capabilities and know the appropriate climbing
techniques;
• be able to clip the quickdraw onto the bolt and then the rope into the
quickdraw, as correctly as possible;
• be able to thread the belay.
A
During the progression of the climber on lead, when anchors are very
far apart, it may be hard to place a quickdraw and get the adequate
protection. In these cases, Tricky may be used to clip the carabiner to
a far anchor, otherwise out of reach (pg. 19).
Correct clipping with the right hand, using the finger to steady the low-
er karabiner which has a curved gate to facilitate clipping.
Correct clipping with the left hand, using the hand to steady the lower
karabiner. Place the rope so that it comes up though the karabiner and
out towards the climber (see 5.2).
Not exhaustive information: always consult the user’s instructions of each device and the technical manuals.
14 Attention! It is essential to possess a proper technical education.
TECHNICAL BOOKLET
SPORT CLIMBING
3 3.1
DANGER
DANGER
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E. Chiappa, Albenga (Italy) K. Dell’Orto - Climbing Technology
16
TECHNICAL BOOKLET
SPORT CLIMBING
Fixbar holder
All Nimble Fixbar Set quickdraws are equipped with the innovative rubber holder Fixbar that makes their use even
more practical and safe. Fixbar is a system that provides the following benefits:
• it prevents the rotation of the carabiner with respect to the anchor and/or of the sling with respect to the carabi-
ner itself (Fig. 1) and in both cases it avoids the possible of cross-loading on its minor axis (Fig. 2);
• it makes possible carrying the quick-draw carabiner hooked to the harness in the correct position, for easy
access and usage (Fig. 3-4).
3 4
17
L. Bana, Gumbi, Toirano (Italy) K. Dell’Orto - Climbing Technology
18
TECHNICAL BOOKLET
SPORT CLIMBING
TRICKY
Tricky is an innovative system that makes it easier to clip the carabiner into a far anchor, otherwise out of reach. Tricky
is equipped with a 35 cm long, semi-rigid tape, and with a lower loop to grab for easy A0-ing.
The carabiner used in the system is equipped with a special gate (Tricky Lever) that stays open and releases automatically
once the system is loaded downward.
Attention! Tricky system is not a quickdraw for progression. Instead, it is a useful device for aid climbing: to progress
beyond the anchor it must be replaced with a quickdraw for progression.
Operating principles
1) Open the gate of the carabiner with the index finger (Fig. 1) and at the same time use the thumb to push down the
Tricky Lever (Fig. 2) to the point it is caught over the gate (Fig. 3), which, as a result, will be kept open (Fig. 4).
2) Reach the piece of protection (Fig. 5) and clip the carabiner in (Fig. 6), pulling it downward and so allowing the
automatic release of the gate (Fig. 7).
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8 9
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6 - THREADING THE BELAY
At the end of the route the climber will find the belay, normally consist-
ing of two bolts joined by a chain and with a karabiner from which you
can lower-off. In order to be lowered off, the climber must pass the
rope through the karabiner, ask the belayer to take in tight and then
be lowered.
At certain crags, instead of a karabiner for lowering-off, you find a
closed ring or a “maillon rapide” which you cannot open to insert the
rope. In this case you need to “thread the belay”.
To do this safely you need:
• two screw-gate carabiners;
• a sewn sling, in rope or webbing, or a daisy chain.
Take care! If you don’t know exactly how to do this, it’s advisable
not to make up your own methods because you could risk your life! It A
would be preferable to attach the rope to the ring with a screw-gate
carabiner or with a quickdraw and lower-off.
Not exhaustive information: always consult the user’s instructions of each device and the technical manuals.
20 Attention! It is essential to possess a proper technical education.
TECHNICAL BOOKLET
SPORT CLIMBING
A threads the loop through the lower-off ring A makes a figure of eight knot at the end of
and pulls towards himself the doubled-over the loop and connects the loop to his har-
rope, until he has about 40 cm more rope ness with a screwgate carabiner. He does up
than the length of sling he is hanging frome. the gate.
3 4 5
A asks B to take in tight the climbing rope, A sunties the end of the rope tied to his har- A checks that: the rope that pass through the
so that he can check that he has correctly ness and unthreads it from the lower-off ring. lower-off ring and tied with the figure of eight
threaded the rope through the lower-off ring. B is holding him on the rope. knot correctly, the screw-gate carabiner is
The rope tied to the harness with the figure loaded lengthways and that its gate is correct-
eight knot and the sewn sling used to secu- ly closed. At this point A, belayed by B, can
re himself to the anchor must both be slack. unclip the sewn sling used to secure himself
to the anchor and get lowered to the ground.
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7 - INNOVATIONS
FG (Free Gate)
Innovative carabiner locking system that combines the functionality of the catch free systems along with
the performance of wire gates. The stainless steel cover makes it easier to clip and unclip the carabiner
avoiding ropes, slings or anchors accidentally catching during use.
FIXIT
Innovative shaped rubber fastener for quickdraw slings. It secures the lower carabiner of the quickdraw to
the sling, preventing the accidental rotation and keeps it on the axis. It also protects the sling from wear
and tear.
Patent pending.
FIXBAR
Rubber retaining bar which prevents the top carabiner of the Nimble Fixbar quick-draw from rotating with
respect to the sling and/or to the anchor, always keeping it in line.
V-PROOF
The Click Up+ V-Proof System consists of a mobile partition that enhances the activation of the assisted-
braking system. If during the fall of the climber the brakehand side of the rope comes into contact with the
partition, this pressure contributes to the rotation of the device and to the consequent locking on the rope.
Patent pending.
CLICK UP
The Click Up is an innovative belay device developed especially for sport climbing. Easy to use, intuitive
and safe, it operates without the need to act on levers and moving parts and it allows to arrest a fall simply
by holding the free end of the rope in your hand.
Patented.
Not exhaustive information: always consult the user’s instructions of each device and the technical manuals.
22 Attention! It is essential to possess a proper technical education.
TECHNICAL BOOKLET
SPORT CLIMBING
8 - STANDARDS
Mountaineering equipments:
EN 565 Tapes
EN 569 Pitons
EN 893 Crampons
EN 12270 Chocks
Connectors:
Type B - Base connectors
Type H - HMS connectors
Type K - Via ferrata connectors
EN 12275
Type D - Directional connectors
Type A - Connectors for specific anchorage
Type Q - Screw gate connectors (quick-links)
Type X - Oval connectors
EN 12277 Harnesses
EN 12278 Pulleys
Work equipments:
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9 - CARABINERS AND QUICKDRAWS
Locking system typology:
Gate typology:
TRIPLEX GATE (TG) The abbreviation that follows the name of the ca-
i
Three movements are necessary to open the gate (1- rabiner indicates the type of gate. The letter L at
2
2 3
2
push,
2 2-twist and 3-open).
1
Warning! It automatically the end indicates the ACL system, whereas the HC
comes back in the locking position of the gate. acronym at the end indicates the anodizing anti-
1
1 wear.
1 1
Special features:
i
ALL THE CONNECTORS ARE
INDIVIDUALLY TESTED
Not exhaustive information: always consult the user’s instructions of each device and the technical manuals.
24 Attention! It is essential to possess a proper technical education.
K. Dell’Orto - Climbing Technology