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Adult Darth Vader Crochet Hat

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milkaymoka
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
2K views19 pages

Adult Darth Vader Crochet Hat

Uploaded by

milkaymoka
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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1

MY LITTLE CHAPINA HANDICRAFTS


Designs made by Julia Voncannon Roldán

DARTH VADER HAT


For Adults

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
2

Thank you for your purchase! This hat is a bit Materials:


different than anything you’ve probably worked - Crochet hooks sizes J/10-6mm, I/
with. My hope is that the pattern is written in a
9-5.5mm, H/8-5.00mm, G/7-4.5mm
clear way. If you have any problems let me know
- Color A: Black. I used the Caron Simply
via email at juli@djministries.net, that way, I can
Soft yarn. You need about 200 grams. For
give you guidance if is not clear enough.
L or XL You’ll need about 400 grams.
- Color B: Dark Gray. about 25 grams or
Every purchase of either my products or my
patterns, helps our family in the work we do in less.
Houston encouraging children and adults alike. - Tapestry needle
For more information go to - Measuring tape (just in case)
www.djministries.net - 3 Buttons: 2 (0.75in ones) black ones, 1
(0.5in) black one.
You can visit and like www.facebook.com/ - Stitch markers
mylittlechapinahandicrafts for upcoming
products and/or patterns.
Gauge:
4.5mm hook - 4 1/2sts, 2 1/2 rows per inch.
There are a couple of rules for this hat:
5mm hook - 4sts, 3 rows per inch.
1. You can gift the products you are making,
5.5mm hook - 4sts, 2 rows per inch.
but please, don’t share the pattern. Instead
lead the people to purchase it on their own. 6mm hook - 3 1/2sts, 1/2 rows per inch.
2. This pattern is for personal use only.
3. If you have any questions or comments, you Notes:
can email me at juli@djministries.net. Also,
A.When you see parenthesis () in the pattern
I would appreciate it if you link your finished
they will be around notations such as (See
to my facebook page.
Note A), or is referring to different sizes for
the pattern.
PATTERN FOR DARTH B. When you see Brackets [] in the pattern

VADER HAT that means that you work everything in them


as a set or together. For example if you see
[SCDEC, 2 SC] 3 times, that means to repeat
Size: (Circumference)
everything in the brackets three times total
S - 22in or less, use a 5.00mm hook.
as a set.
M - 23in, use a 5.5mm hook.
C. When I have a number followed by a ST,
L - 24in use size 6mm hook.
that stitch needs to be worked over that
XL - 25in use the 5.5mm hook. See the notes
number of stitches. Example: “10SC” that is
in blue as you create the helmet.
1SC in each of the next 10 stitches.

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
3

D. Each Step is separated by a comma (,). with the stitch Half Double Crochet
E. All CH2 to start rounds or rows counts as Reversed (HDCR) :
stitch.
F. The hat is worked on a spiral. 1.When you finish your

G. The outer “Skirt” of the helmet starts at row of HDC s, turn, C2,
Then wrap yarn around
the back of the hat.
hook from the top and
H. The type of yarn makes the hat either
pull yarn towards you.
stretchy or non-stretchy. I worked the hat
with 2 types of yarns, and one didn’t fit my
model, even when the hats were the same 2. Insert hook on chain,
size. If you want your helmet to look more from the back.

stiff, you can double up the yarn.


I. For illustration purposes the pictures are
with different colors of yarn.

Special Stitches: 3 - 4. Pull yarn trough the


chain toward the back.
The rows for the back of the hat can be
worked like you normally would (turn, CH2,
HDC …) but the result will have some lines
like in the picture below.

5. Now you have 3 loops


on chain. Yarn over the
hook.

6. Pull yarn through 3


loops on hook. What you
get is the look of the back
of the HDC . When you
turn it around, it should
look like the ones below.

You can also find a video that explains the


stitch in the following link: HDCR

In order to not have those lines, and to


make your helmet more even, I came up

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
4

Front and Back Post Half Double Crochet HELMET


(FPHDC, BPHDC):
The hat is made in a spiral. On page 16,
there is a chart of the spiral of the hat. For
FPHDC: YO and insert hook from the front to
size S, use the 5.00mm hook. For L, use the
the back around the post of the HDC on the
6mm hook. For Size XL look at the sections
previous row. Complete as for regular HDC .
with blue letters. Directions in 5.5mm
hook:
BPHDC: Yo and insert hook from the back to
the front around the post of the HDC on the
Using Color BLACK, make a slip ring.
previous row. Complete as for regular HDC .

Increases:
HDCDEC: YO and insert hook, pull yarn
Round 1:
through. (3 loops on hook), insert hook in next
1CH, 10HDC in ring, pull end to close ring.
ST, pull yarn, (4 loops on hook), pull yarn
Place a marker on the first ST made, do not
through the 4 loops.
close the round. (10 sts)
Round 2:
Invisible fasten up:
Where the ST marker is, 2HDC, (place a
Leave an end long enough to sew with and
marker on the first ST made), repeat in every
pull it through the loop (top chain) of the fi rst
ST of the round. (20sts)
stitch of the last row made. Then take it back
Round 3:
into the last stitch to form a new chain. Fasten
Where the ST marker is 2HDC, (place a
off by weaving ends.
marker on the first ST made), [1HDC, 2HDC
in next st] repeat 9 times, 1HDC to finish the
Abbreviations:
round. (30sts)
HDC: Half Double Crochet
Round 4:
HDCR: Half Double Crochet Reversed
Where the ST marker is 2HDC, (place a
2tog: Decrease
marker on the first ST made), [2HDC, 2HDC
BPHDC: Back Post Half Double Crochet
in next st] repeat 9 times, 1HDC in every of
FPHDC: Front Post Half Double Crochet
the last 2 STS to finish the round. (40sts)
HDCDEC: Half Double Crochet Decrease
Round 5:
DC: Double Crochet
Where the ST marker is 2HDC, (place a
SC: Single Crochet
marker on the first ST made), [3HDC, 2HDC
SS: Slip Stitch
in next st] repeat 9 times, 1HDC in every of
CH: Chain
the last 3 STS to finish the round. (50sts)
ST(S): Stitch, stitches

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
5

Round 6:
Where the ST marker is 2HDC, (place a
marker on the first ST made), [4HDC, 2HDC
in next st] repeat 9 times, 1HDC in every of
the last 4 STS to finish the round. (60sts)
Round 7:
Where the ST marker is 2HDC, (place a
marker on the first ST made), [5HDC, 2HDC When you finish round 15 (round 16), SS to
in next st] repeat 9 times, 1HDC in every of end the row.
the last 5 STS to finish the round. (70sts)

Ribbing:
Now, you are going to start going down. It
For this, we will be working Front
seems small, but when you add the next two
and Back Post Half Double
rows, you’ll get the real width of the hat.
Crochets or FPHDC and BPHDC.
Right now the diameter is 7in.
(See special Stitches - The pictures
are just to reference the motion)

Round 16 (17):
2CH, [1FPHDC, 1BPHDC] repeat to finish
the round. (70STS, 80STS)
Round 17 (18):
2CH, [1FPHDC, 1BPHDC] repeat to finish
For XL size: Round 8: the round. Ss to finish. DO NOT fasten off.
Where the ST marker is 2HDC, (place a (Where you have FPHDCs, you should make
marker on the fi rst ST made), [6HDC, 2HDC the same ST on top of it. Same for the
in next st] repeat 9 times, 1HDC in every of BPHDC). (70STS, 80STS)
the last 6 STS to fi nish the round. (80sts)
FLAPS FOR MASK:
Rounds 8-15 (9-16): The mask is attached with buttons, placed in
Where the ST marker is, 1HDC, Place a the sides of the mask. 1 flap in each side of
marker on the first ST made, repeat to finish the hat. Start right were you ended in last
the round.(70sts, 80sts) On round 10 (11), row.
you should see the final diameter of the hat.
About 8.5in or 9in. Row 1:
2CH, 1HDC in the next 3STS. Turn.

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
6

Row 2-4: Repeat row 1. Invisible fasten up. Match the flaps, fold in half. Once you fold it
in half, you’ll see that one side is wider than
Count 25 (31) stitches, mark the 13th (16th) the other. The longer part is the front, the
Stitch. (See picture below) Then: shorter is the back. On the crease of the
Row 1: front part (on the outside), you are going to
Insert yarn, 2CH, 1HDC in the next 3STS. sew the little button.
Turn.
Row 2-4: Repeat round 1. Invisible fasten SKIRT OF THE HAT
up. The outer skirt around the hat is what gives
this hat its “Darth Vader” shape. It’s worked
around in the beginning 4 rounds, then it
switches to Rows.

Looking from the back, you’ll be


working on the Trapezoid. It

(Hidden Ribbing) kind of looks like a skirt. You’ll


start working on the middle
top of the trapezoid. The
ribbing of the hat will be
hidden (See the arrow).
These flaps will hold the 2 bigger buttons
for the mask. Place them on the outside of Start by locating the stitch marker on the
the flaps. (See picture below) back. Turn around your hat (with the ribbing
facing up) We finished the ribbing on round
Before you continue, we are going to define 17. Go down to row 15
what is the front and the back of the hat, and
you will place stitch markers on BOTH. You will work ON the posts of the stitches of
that row. (or ON TOP of the stitches)

START HERE
Front Stitch
Marker Stitch marker
on 13th ST

Place for
button
NOTE: The following part has the stitch
count noted, but because working with black
yarn can be a pain, if you find yourself not

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
7

having the appropriate amount of stitches, Round 4:


don’t rip it. The stitch count is not as 2CH, 32(36)HDC, 9SC, 5HDC, 9SC (place a
important as the increases for the shape to ST marker right here), 32(36)HDC, invisible
work. Also, if you would like your hat to be a fasten off. Weave ends. (88STS, 96STS)
bit more sturdy, I recommend doubling your
yarn in the next section. The next portion will be worked rows, you
don’t end these ones around. You’ll leave
unworked stitches. Where you placed your
marker in the last round (between the last
SC and the second section of the 32HDC):

Row 5:
2CH, 1HDC in next 9 STS, 2HDC in same st,
[1HDC in next 10 STS, 2HDC in next ST]
repeat 4 (5) times, 10(8)HDC to finish row.
Turn. (70STS, 80STS) (You’ll leave 23 STS
unworked).
Round 1:
2CH, 1FPHDC on same ST, 1FPHDC in next On the following even rows we will use the
6(7) STS, [2FPHDC in next ST, 1FPHDC in Half Double Crochet Reversed (HDCR)
next 6(7) STS] repeat 10 times or to finish stitch. (See notes: Special Stitches) After a
the round. (When you get to were the couple of them you will get used to them.
second flap is, you’ll find the end of the The increases are worked on the uneven
spiral. Make the ST in the row that is lower, rounds, with HDC to make it easier.
leaving the ribbing hidden). SS in first ST
made to finish the row. (80STS, 90 STS) Row 6:
Round 2: 2CH (Skip 1st space). 1HDCR in each ST
2CH (skip 1st space), 1HDC in every ST around. Turn (70STS, 80STS).
around. SS in first ST made to finish the row. Row 7:
(80STS, 90STS) 2CH (Skip 1st space), 1HDC in each ST
Round 3: around. Turn. (70STS, 80STS)
2CH, 1HDC on same ST, 1HDC in next 9 Row 8:
(10)STS, [2HDC in next ST, 1HDC in next 9 2CH (Skip 1st space), 1HDCR same ST and
(10) STS] repeat to finish the row. SS in first in each ST around. Turn (70STS, 80STS).
ST made to finish the row. (88STS, 96STS)

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
8

Row 9: Edging:
2CH (Skip 1st space), 9HDC, 2HDC in next 2CH, 20SC (by now, you should be on the
ST, [1hdc in next 10 sts, 2hdc in next] repeat last SC from the fi rst section of SCs of round
4 (6) times, HDC to finish row, Turn. (75STS, 4), 1HDC, 2CH, 1DC, 2DC in next ST, 1DC,
87STS) [1DC, 2CH, 1HDC] in next ST, (Center made)
Row 10: 20SC, [2CH, 1SC] in same ST (1st bottom
2CH (Skip 1st space), 1HDCR in each ST corner made)
around. Turn (75STS, 87STS). For the back bottom edge:
Row 11: 1SC in each ST to finish row. Invisible fasten
2CH (Skip 1st space), 1HDC in each ST off, and sharpen second corner. Weave
around. Do not Turn. (70STS, 87STS) ends.

2 DCs
2nd
Front of Hat

1st Corner
You are going to turn your hat clock-wise,
and work up the HDC rows you made
earlier to form the front part of the helmet.
Line on top of the helmet:
SCs from This line goes centered on top of the
You’ll work along this edge,
Round 4 helmet:
about 2SCs per row

Row 1:
You finished 37CH, 1HDC in 3rd CH from hook, 1HDC in
Row 11 here.
each ST across. Turn. (35STS)
Row 2:
2CH. 1HDCR in each ST across. (35STS).
Invisible fasten off, leave a long end to sew
in place.

In the front top of the hat, you made 2DCs.


(See picture above) that is your guide to
place the Top Line. Place the Top Line,

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
9

centering it on the forehead part, towards MASK: (Chart on page 19)


the slip ring where you started the spiral of Mask Part 1: https://youtu.be/FmQmczWYdCY
the hat, on top of the hat. Mask Part 2: https://youtu.be/nVbLfWfdTsI
PLEASE, don’t share these videos. You have
access because you purchased this pattern.

Use your 5.5mm (I-9) hook (6mm). You are


starting at the sides of the mask. The
beginning 2ch counts as a stitch. You can
work this without the HDCR. Use the 2CH
and HDC instead to begin the even
rounds. The mask is purposefully extended
Loosely sew in the as a triangle on the bottom, to cover the
Top Line to the chin.
middle of the hat
with a piece of Row 1:
yarn or another 7CH, SS join into 1st CH, 2ch, 3HDC into
color. You can ring. Turn (4sts)
also pin it in Row 2:
place. Or place it 2CH, 1HDCR in same ST, 1HDCR in next ST.
with sewing pins. 2HDC in last ST. Turn. (5sts)
It’s really handy to Row 3:
use a styrofoam 2CH, 1HDC in same ST, 2HDC, 1HDC, 2HDC
head for this part. into last ST. Turn. (7sts)
Row 4:
2CH, 1HDCR in same ST, 2HDCR in next ST,
3HDCR, 2HDCR into last ST. Turn. (9sts)
Row 5:
2CH, 1HDC in same ST, 6HDC, 2HDC into
last ST. Turn. (10sts)
Row 6:
2CH, 1HDCR in same ST, 7HDCR, 2HDCR
Sew only the back loops of the rib into the into last ST. Turn. (11sts)
hat, go all around, making sure it looks even Row 7:
and neat. Don’t pull the yarn tight, otherwise 2CH, 1HDC in same ST, 8HDC, 2HDC into
it won’t stretch or it will look uneven. last st. Turn. (12sts)

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
10

Row 8: Row 19:


2CH, 1HDCR, 9HDCR, 2HDCR into last ST. 2CH, 1HDCDEC in same ST and next one,
Turn. (13sts) 10HDC. Turn. (12sts)
Row 9: Row 20:
2CH, 1HDC in same ST, 2HDC in next ST, 2CH, 1HDCRDEC in same ST and next one,
10HDC. Turn. (14sts) 7HDCR, 1HDCRDEC into last 2STS. Turn.
Row 10: (10sts)
2CH, 1HDCR in same ST, 11HDCR, 2HDCR Row 21:
into last ST. Turn. (15sts) 2CH, 1HDCDEC in same ST and next one,
Row 11: 7HDC. Turn. (9sts)
2CH, 1HDC in same ST, 2HDC in next ST, Row 22:
12HDC, Turn. (16sts) 2CH, 1HDCR in same st, 5HDCR,
Row 12: 1HDCRDEC into last 2sts. (8sts)
2CH, 1HDCR in same ST, 13HDCR. 2HDCR Row 23:
into last ST. Turn. (17sts) 2CH, 1HDCDEC in same ST and next one,
Row 13: 5HDC. Turn. (7sts)
2CH, 1HDC in same ST, 2HDC in next ST, Row 24:
14HDC, Turn. (18sts) 2CH, 1HDCRDEC in same ST and next one,
4HDCR. Turn. (6sts)
DECREASES: Row 25:
Row 14: 2CH, 1HDCDEC in same ST and next one,
2CH, 1HDCR in same ST, 1HDCR in next 3HDC. Turn. (5sts)
14STS. 1HDCRDEC into last 2STS. Turn. Row 26:
(17sts) 2CH, 1HDCRDEC in same ST and next one,
Row 15: 2HDCR. Turn. (4sts)
2CH, 1HDCDEC in same ST and next one,
14HDC. Turn. (16sts) 4CH, SS into first stitch of the round.
Row 16:
2CH, 1HDCR in same st, 12HDCR,
1HDCRDEC into last 2STS. Turn. (15sts)
Row 17:
2CH, 1HDCDEC in same ST and next one,
12HDC. Turn. (14sts)
Row 18:
2CH, 1HDCR in same ST, 10HDCR.
1HDCRDEC into last 2STS. Turn. (13sts)

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
11

Edging: stuff gift bags) to sew the lines as a guide for


(For this part, it’s useful to fold the mask in you to single crochet them.
half and locate the bottom corner. Stitch
Mark it). To align the tissue paper to the mask, use
1CH, SC in every stitch around, about 40SC the triangle of the bottom as a guide. Align
give or take for the top, 4CH for the left it to the corner of the bottom of the mask.
loop, 23SC to the corner of the bottom, Place it with sewing pins so it doesn’t move
[2CH, SC in same ST] in the bottom corner as you sew it. (see picture below)
(where your ST marker is), 21SC to the end,
4CH for the right loop. Invisible fasten up to
finish round. Weave Ends.

Be gentle as you sew the line pattern of the


mask with a contrasting yarn color(make
small stitches). Rip or cut carefully the paper
in an up-and-down motion. As you rip the
paper out, be careful, since the stitches can
pull and you’ll loose the shape.
MASK DETAILS:
The mask should roughly fit the Mask Guide
of the page 17 & 18.

Align the
corners
together.

To start shaping the mask you


need to pinch along the sewn
lines and fold them in half. To

Re-trace the mask into a piece of clear- SC on them, you’ll follow the

colored tissue paper (like the one you use to numbers on the mask guide
of page 17 & 18.

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
12

You’ll work on top of the mask. SC with With your tapestry needle and black yarn,
black yarn, evenly, making sure to make sew with chain stitch the triangle in the
straight lines (as much as possible, see bottom.
picture below)

Nose Triangle:
You’ll work the mask details with hook
4.5mm (G-7). The amount of stitches on the
base of the triangle depends on how many
SCs you have in the bottom line. I could fit
11 SCs in this section. They may be one less
Where you find intersected lines, add a CH1 or more. It’s ok. If you have 9, add a couple
to pass the yarn above the line that is of stitches in the middle, to get to 11. Add 1
already in the mask. (see pictures below) if you have only 10.
Start
here
Row 1:
Start by SS in the 1ch
line
om
space of the line No. 3, Bott

(Like in the picture) 11SC


and finish on the ch1 space at the end. Turn.
(If you have 12SC in this row, add a decrease
on the next round at the end, the picture
below is for reference only, it has less
stitches)

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
13

Round 2: 1SC in next 13 STS, [2SC in next ST] repeat 3


2CH, 1HDCDEC in first and next ST, 8HDC. times, 1SC in next 13 STS. SL ST, and fasten
Turn. up. Don’t weave ends yet.
Row 3:
2CH, 1HDCDEC in first and next ST, 7HDC. Working on the back loops of the SCS you
Turn. just made, you’ll give depth to the nose
Row 4: triangle by adding an extra edge. This edge
2CH, 1HDCDEC in first and next ST, 6HDC. will be attached to the mask.
Turn.
Row 5: SS in the first SC of the edging, then 1SC in
2CH, 1HDCDEC in first ST and next, 5HDC. next 2STS, 1HDC in next 3STS, 1DC in next
Turn. 20STS, 1HDC in next 3STS, 1SC in next
Row 6: 2STS. SL ST, fasten up, don’t weave ends.
2CH, 1HDCDEC in first ST and next, 2HDC, You’ll use them to stuff the triangle.
1HDCDEC in last 2STS. Turn.

Top part of triangle: Work on back loops BACK


only, you should have 4 STS, if you have
more, you can unravel the last 2 stitches just
made, and make a decrease.
On the loops of the front, you are going to
Row 7: do something similar than on the back.
2CH, 1HDC in next ST, 1DC in next 2STS,
1HDC in last ST.
Row 8: FRONT
1CH, 1SC in next ST, 1HDC in next 2STS,
1SC. Invisible fasten up, but don’t cut ends.
They will help you stuff the nose.
Edge: Start on the left side (See picture below):
Starting where
the arrow is at
(see picture on
the left), you’ll
sc all around
the triangle.
The sequence is as follows:

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
14

1SS in the first 2 front loops, 2SC, 2HDC, Make even STS in
2DC, (you should be in the bottom line of the lines of the
the top semicircle) 3CH, SS, top nose triangle for the
semicircle: 11SC, SS, (finished nose) 3CH, nose. The ones in
2DC, 2HDC, 3SC, 2SS. the picture are just
for reference.
Fasten up, leave a long tail, so you can sew Make your lines
in the nose triangle to the mask later. straight. Also fill
the nose with the gray yarn as well.
Start again with a long tail, SC on the front
loops left at bottom of the nose semicircle,
then attach yarn to the sides (see picture
below) and fill gap that is visible in the sides,
where the SC and the STS in the sides meet.
Weave ends into the sidings of the nose and
close the 3CH gaps. Make the corners
sharp. Weave ends. Close the gap below
with the long ends.

Make sure you cover the black background


Triangle in the nose semicircle.
semi-circle

Close the gaps,


make corners
sharp

With your tapestry needle and color B (dark


gray), start sewing the detail lines on both,
the bottom triangle and the nose. For the
Sew nose triangle in place, following your
bottom triangle,
guide lines, and stuffing it with the ends
sew the lines from
you have cut out as you weaved ends.
the bottom of the
On the drawing of the mask, there are a
chains and weave
couple of little lines in each side of the
along, Make sure
bottom (picture in next page), you need to
the STS look even.

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
15

sew together these sections. This makes the


mask fit in the chin.

With color B, make the lines in the middle of


the part you just made, make sure they are
With your tapestry needle sew the little straight, and towards the bottom section, so
circle shapes as even as possible. Start by they show when you attach the mask to the
the middle, stitch up and down by making hat.
the stitches increasingly smaller.

In order for the mask to stay in place, you


need to crochet a little flap that buttons up
to the helmet. Fold your mask in half. In the
top section you can count 2STS before the
center and 2STS after. That would be the Add the buttons to the side flaps of the

space for the flap. With 4.5mm hook: helmet and the little button in the center
part of the ribbing. Place the mask in hat,

Row 1: and you are done!

SS, 2CH, 4HDC, turn.


Row 2-5:
2CH, 4HDC, turn.

3CH, SS in first ST of
last row (buttonhole).
Cut and weave ends.

Where you made the


I hope you enjoyed making your hat.
first ST of row 1, SS, 1SC, SC all the way to
the top, 3CH in buttonhole. SC all the way to
Juli Voncannon.
the bottom. Invisible fasten up, weave ends.

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
16

CHART FOR HAT INCREASES AND RIBBING

HAT RIBBING 18

17
16

Row 7 (For Adult size)

HAT INCREASES

8-1
5
6

4
3
2
1

Chart Key
Slip Stitch (ss)
Chain (ch)
Half Double Crochet (hdc)

Front Post Half Double Crochet (fphdc)

Back Post Half Double Crochet (bphdc)

Half Double Crochet Increase (2hdc)

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
17

MASK GUIDE A

Glue here
4
Sew together

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
18

MASK GUIDE B

2
Cut along the line and paste in “Mask Guide A”

Sew together
3

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts
19

2020, All rights reserved. Designed by Julia Voncannon - Property of My Little Chapina Handicrafts

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