Page 1 of 13 #CalmDownCardigan

YARN: DK weight yarn, approx 1416

(1476; 1606; 1691; 1780) [1879; 2018;
2108; 2189] metres / 1529 (1594; 1734;
1826; 1921) [2029; 2178; 2275; 2363]
yards.

Sample shown in BC Garn Loch

Lomond (100% wool, 150m per 50g
skein) in shade Silver. If using this
yarn, you will need 10 (10; 11; 12; 12)
[13; 14; 15; 15] skeins.

GAUGE: 22 sts and 32 rows to 4

inches / 10 cm in stocking stitch
blocked. Suggested size 4 mm.

NEEDLES & NOTIONS:

4mm and 3.75mm needles of any
length (for body)
3.5mm long circular needle (for
buttonband)
4mm and 3.75mm needle(s) of your
preferred length for working small
circumferences in the round (ie.
DPNs, short circulars, magic loop) for
sleeves

3 buttons (diameter approx 22 mm)

Removable stitch markers
Tapestry needle
Scrap yarn

calm down cardigan

by LILY KATE FRANCE

The elegant everyday cardigan your wardrobe needs.

Copyright 2023 Lily Kate France. For personal use only. Pattern & items made from pattern may not be reproduced for sale.
 Page 2 of 13 #CalmDownCardigan

SIZING: 1 (2; 3; 4; 5) [6; 7; 8; 9] detailed below, designed to be worn with between 10-12 inches /
25-30 cm positive ease. Sample shown is a size 2 worn on a 34” bust with approx 10” positive ease.

This is a generously fitting garment so if you are between sizes, size down.

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
To fit bust
28-30 32-34 36-38 40-42 44-46 48-50 52-54 56-58 60-62
(inches)
To fit bust
71-76 81-86 91-97 102-107 112-117 122-127 132-137 142-147 152-157
(cm)
39.5” 43.5” 47.5” 51.5” 55.5” 59.5” 63.5” 67.5” 71.5”
A: Bust
100 cm 111 cm 120 cm 131 cm 140 cm 151 cm 161 cm 172 cm 181 cm
B: Armhole 11.5” 12” 12.5” 13” 14” 14.5” 15” 15.5” 16”
depth 30 cm 31 cm 32 cm 34 cm 35 cm 36 cm 38 cm 39 cm 40 cm
C: Total 22.5” 23” 23” 23.5” 23.5” 23.5” 24.5” 24.5” 24.5”
length 57 cm 58 cm 58 cm 60 cm 60 cm 60 cm 62 cm 62 cm 62 cm
D: Upper 18.5” 19” 20” 20.5” 21.5” 23” 24” 25.5” 26.5”
sleeve 47 cm 48 cm 50 cm 52 cm 55 cm 59 cm 61 cm 64 cm 67 cm
8.5” 9” 9.5” 10” 10.5” 10.5” 11” 11.5” 11.5”
E: Cuff
22 cm 23 cm 24 cm 25 cm 26 cm 27 cm 27 cm 29 cm 29 cm
F: Sleeve 16.5” 15.5” 16.5” 16” 15.5” 15.5” 15.5” 15.5” 14.5”
length 42 cm 39 cm 42 cm 41 cm 40 cm 40 cm 39 cm 39 cm 37 cm

C B

A E
F

Copyright 2023 Lily Kate France. For personal use only. Pattern & items made from pattern may not be reproduced for sale.
 Page 3 of 13 #CalmDownCardigan

NOTES

Construction: the Calm Down cardigan is worked seamlessly from the top down. You begin by
working a small saddle shoulder piece in rib, then place these stitches on hold and pick up along
the edge of the piece just made to work the left front. Picking up is done from the wrong side of
the work so the saddle shoulder appears raised on the right side. Increases are worked to shape
the front neck and armhole, before the left front stitches are placed on scrap yarn.

A second piece is worked for the right saddle shoulder, which you will pick up along the edge of,
cast on stitches for the back neck, then join with the left shoulder in order to work the upper back.
After completing the armhole increases, the back stitches are placed aside and the right front is
worked to match the left. This may seem like a strange sequence, but it minimises the number of
times you will need to break yarn and enables the saddle shoulders to be as neat as possible.

Once the upper body is complete, both fronts and the back are joined together to work the lower
body in one piece. The body is worked straight without shaping until you reach the front notch
section, at which point you will begin decreasing at the front edges to shape the notch. The hem
is finished in 1x1 rib with a tubular cast off.

The buttonband is worked before the sleeves as this will allow the cardigan to be tried on properly
without curling. Stitches are picked up for the buttonband which is worked using applied double
knitting, and includes short rows for smooth curves around corners.

Stitches are picked up around the armholes to work the sleeves, and a sleeve cap is created with
short rows. The rib from the saddle shoulder continues down the sleeve. Decreases taper the
sleeve in to the cuff, which is worked in 1x1 rib.

Yarn choices: any yarn (or combination of yarns) that meets the gauge can technically be used for
this pattern. However, it is worth considering that the rib panels down the sides and the sleeves
curl inwards before blocking. With a natural fibre yarn (such as wool used in the sample), this curl
completely disappears when blocked. With synthetic fibres, the curl will not block out as well.

Terminology: left and right means as worn, not as looking at the garment.

Pattern support: for pattern support queries please EMAIL lilykate@jolihouse.com rather than
sending an Instagram DM.

Copyright 2023 Lily Kate France. For personal use only. Pattern & items made from pattern may not be reproduced for sale.
 Page 4 of 13 #CalmDownCardigan

ABBREVIATIONS & TECHNIQUES

K: knit P: purl This pattern uses German short rows, which are
inc: increase dec: decrease worked as follows:
PM: place marker SM: slip marker
Sl: slip 1 stitch purlwise St(s): stitch(es) 1) Work the required number of stitches, then
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together turn work (leaving the remaining stitches on the
s1wyif: slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front previous round unworked).

k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through the 2) With the yarn held in front, slip the first stitch
back loop on your left needle (the GSR stitch) purlwise.

m1L: make one left. (Insert left needle tip under 3) Pull your working yarn firmly up and over the
bar between needles from front to back, place right needle. This is referred to as ‘pull yarn’ in
bar on left needle tip, knit this stitch through the the pattern.
back loop).
4) The stitch below is stretched up and over the
m1R: make one right. (Insert left needle tip under needle and now appears as a ‘double stitch’. If
bar between needles from back to front, place next working a knit stitch, the yarn is now on the
bar on left needle tip, knit this stitch through the correct side of the work. If next working a purl
front loop normally). stitch, bring the yarn to the front between the
needles.
SSK: slip next stitch knitwise, slip another stitch
knitwise, then slip both stitches back to left 5) Work in pattern as directed to the end of the
needle (stitches now sit twisted). Knit these row.
stitches together through the back loop.
When you encounter a GSR stitch on the next
row, work both legs of the ‘double stitch’
together as one stitch.
Video tutorials: knit stitch / stocking stitch / 1x1
rib / basic decreases / picking up stitches along
a slipped stitch edge / picking up stitches /
German short rows / tubular bind off / cable
cast on

Copyright 2023 Lily Kate France. For personal use only. Pattern & items made from pattern may not be reproduced for sale.
 Page 5 of 13 #CalmDownCardigan

Note: before beginning, it is especially important (WS): S1, pull yarn, p to end.
to check your row gauge with this pattern, as
many of the design elements require working a (RS): K 22 (22; 24; 24; 25) [25; 26; 26; 28], turn.
certain number of rows which can’t be simply (WS): S1, pull yarn, p to end.
modified.
(RS): K 25 (25; 27; 27; 29) [29; 30; 30; 32], p1, k1,
p1, turn.
BEGIN LEFT SADDLE SHOULDER (WS): S1, pull yarn, p1, k1, p to end.
Using 3.75mm needle and the long tail method,
cast on 11 (11; 11; 11; 13) [13; 13; 13; 13] sts.
Repeat rows 1&2 a further 1 (0; 0; 1; 0) [0; 1; 0;
Row 1 (RS): k1, [p1, k1] to end. 0] times.
Row 2 (WS): s1wyif, [k1, p1] to last 2 sts, k1, s1wyif. You will now begin to work increases to shape
These 2 rows form 1x1 rib with a slipped stitch the front neck.
edging. Next row / neck inc (RS): k2, m1R, k to last 7 sts,
Repeat last 2 rows a further 22 (22; 23; 23; 25) p1, [k1, p1] x3. 33 (33; 35; 35; 37) [37; 38; 38; 40]
[25; 25; 25; 27] times / 46 (46; 48; 48; 52) [52; sts.
52; 52; 56] rows worked in total. Work 5 rows straight (ie. with no increases and
Place a removable marker on the WS of the maintaining rib as set).
work for future reference. Repeat last 6 rows a further 11 (9; 9; 6; 6) [5; 3;
Place sts on holder but do not break yarn. 2; 1] times. 44 (42; 44; 41; 43) [42; 41; 40; 41] sts.

You will now pick up sts along the edge of the

saddle shoulder piece. It can be a little awkward You will now begin to shape the underarm whilst
to pick up along a slipped stitch edge – see continuing to increase for the front neck.
tutorial for guidance.
Next row / armhole & neck inc (RS): k2, m1R, k
With 4mm needle, yarn still attached, and WS to last 8 sts, m1L, [k1, p1] x4. 46 (44; 46; 43; 45)
facing, cast on 1 st using the backwards loop [44; 43; 42; 43] sts.
method. Pull this loop as tight as possible.
Work 5 rows straight.
Then proceed to pick up and k 31 (31; 33; 33;
35) [35; 36; 36; 38] sts along edge of saddle Repeat last 6 rows a further 0 (2; 2; 4; 4) [5; 7; 8;
shoulder (2 sts in every 3 rows). 32 (32; 34; 34; 10] times. 46 (48; 50; 51; 53) [54; 57; 58; 63] sts.
36) [36; 37; 37; 39] sts.

* Next row (RS): work armhole & neck inc as

UPPER LEFT FRONT before. 48 (50; 52; 53; 55) [56; 59; 60; 65] sts.
Row 1 (RS): k to last 7 sts, p1, [k1, p1] x3. Work 1 WS row.
Row 2 (WS): k1, [p1, k1] x3, p to end. Next row / armhole inc: k to last 8 sts, m1L, [k1,
p1] x4. 49 (51; 53; 54; 56) [57; 60; 61; 66] sts.
You may find it helpful to place a marker to
remind yourself to work the 7 armhole edge Work 1 WS row.
sts in rib. This marker is optional, so will not be
referred to in the pattern. Next row / armhole inc: k to last 8 sts, m1L, [k1,
p1] x4. 50 (52; 54; 55; 57) [58; 61; 62; 67] sts.
Work 1 WS row. **
You will now work short rows to shape the left
shoulder. Repeat from * to ** a further 0 (1; 1; 3; 3) [3; 4; 5;
4] times. 50 (56; 58; 67; 69) [70; 77; 82; 83] sts.
Row 3 (RS): k 4 (4; 4; 4; 4) [4; 4; 4; 4], turn.
Sizes 1, 2, 4 only: omit final WS row on last
(WS): S1, pull yarn, p to end. repeat.
(RS): K 10 (10; 11; 11; 11) [11; 12; 12; 12], turn. On the row where you work the final neck
increase, place a removable marker on the first
(WS): S1, pull yarn, p to end. st (place marker on actual stitch, not on needle).
(RS): K 16 (16; 18; 18; 18) [18; 19; 19; 20], turn. This will be used as a reference point later.

Copyright 2023 Lily Kate France. For personal use only. Pattern & items made from pattern may not be reproduced for sale.
 Page 6 of 13 #CalmDownCardigan

Sizes 3, 5, 6, 7, 8 & 9 only: (RS): S1, pull yarn, work 17 (17; 18; 19; 19) [19; 20;
20; 20] sts, turn,
Repeat armhole inc. - (-; 59; -; 70) [71; 78; 83;
84] sts. (WS): S1, pull yarn, work 23 (23; 25; 26; 26) [26;
27; 27; 28] sts, turn,
Work 1 WS row.
(RS): S1, pull yarn, work 56 (58; 60; 62; 62) [62;
Repeat last 2 rows a further - (-; 1; -; 1) [4; 1; 1; 4] 65; 67; 68] sts, turn,
times, then repeat armhole inc row once more.
- (-; 61; -; 72) [76; 80; 85; 89] sts. (WS): S1, pull yarn, work 3 (3; 3; 3; 3) [3; 3; 3; 3]
sts, turn,
(RS): S1, pull yarn, work 9 (9; 10; 10; 10) [10; 11; 11;
All sizes: break yarn and place sts on holder / 11] sts, turn,
scrap yarn.
(WS): S1, pull yarn, work 12 (12; 13; 13; 13) [13; 14;
14; 14] sts, turn,
RIGHT SADDLE SHOULDER (RS): S1, pull yarn, work 18 (18; 20; 20; 20) [20;
Work exactly as for left saddle shoulder, 21; 21; 22] sts, turn,
including picking up sts. (WS): S1, pull yarn, work 23 (23; 25; 26; 26) [26;
27; 27; 28] sts, turn,

UPPER BACK (RS): S1, pull yarn, work 29 (29; 31; 32; 33) [33;
34; 34; 36] sts, turn,
Using the backwards loop method and yarn still
attached, cast on 37 (39; 39; 41; 41) [41; 43; 45; (WS): S1, pull yarn, work 80 (82; 86; 88; 90) [90;
45] sts onto the 4mm needle you just used to 94; 96; 100] sts, turn,
pick up along the right saddle shoulder. (RS): S1, pull yarn, work 86 (88; 92; 94; 97) [97;
With WS facing, continue to pick up and k 31 (31; 101; 103; 107] sts,
33; 33; 35) [35; 36; 36; 38] sts along remaining (WS): S1, pull yarn, work 92 (94; 98; 100; 104)
edge of left saddle shoulder (2 sts in every 3 [104; 108; 110; 114] sts,
rows).
(RS): S1, pull yarn, work 96 (98; 102; 104; 108)
Cast on 1 st using backwards loop method. 101 [108; 112; 114; 118] sts / to end.
(103; 107; 109; 113) [113; 117; 119; 123] sts.
Row 1 (RS): p1, [k1, p1] x3, k to last 7 sts, p1, [k1,
p1] x3. Continue to work straight (ie. with no further
short rows and maintaining rib as set) for a
Row 2 (WS): k1, [p1, k1] x3, p to last 7 sts, k1, [p1, further 73 (59; 59; 43; 41) [35; 25; 17; 11] rows.
k1] x3.
From this point on, ‘work X sts’ means ‘work X
sts in pattern as set, ie. k the knits and p the You will now begin to work increases to shape
purls’. This maintains the 7 sts of 1x1 rib along the underarm.
the armhole edges.
Next row / underarm inc (RS): p1, [k1, p1] x3, k1,
You may find it helpful to place markers to m1R, k to last 8 sts, m1L, [k1, p1] x4. 103 (105; 109;
remind yourself to work the 7 armhole edge sts 111; 115) [115; 119; 121; 125] sts.
in rib. These markers are optional, so will not be
referred to in the pattern. Work 5 rows straight.
Repeat last 6 rows a further 0 (2; 2; 4; 4) [5; 7;
8; 10] times. 103 (109; 113; 119; 123) [125; 133; 137;
You will now work short rows to shape the back 145] sts.
shoulders.
Row 3 (RS): Work 32 (32; 34; 34; 36) [36; 37; 37;
39] sts, turn, Next row: work underarm inc as before. 105 (111;
115; 121; 125) [127; 135; 139; 147] sts.
(WS): S1, pull yarn, work 3 sts, turn,
Work 1 WS row.
(RS): S1, pull yarn, work 6 sts, turn,
Repeat last 2 rows a further 1 (4; 7; 10; 13) [16;
(WS): S1, pull yarn, work 12 (12; 13; 13; 13) [13; 14; 16; 19; 19] times, then repeat inc row once more.
14; 14] sts, turn, 109 (121; 131; 143; 153) [161; 169; 179; 187] sts.

Copyright 2023 Lily Kate France. For personal use only. Pattern & items made from pattern may not be reproduced for sale.
 Page 7 of 13 #CalmDownCardigan

Break yarn and place sts on holder / scrap yarn. You will now begin to shape the underarm whilst
continuing to increase for the front neck.
Next row / armhole & neck inc (RS): [p1, k1] x4,
UPPER RIGHT FRONT m1R, k to last 2 sts, m1L, k2. 46 (44; 46; 43; 45)
With 4mm needle and WS facing, pick up and [44; 43; 42; 43] sts.
k 31 (31; 33; 33; 35) [35; 36; 36; 38] sts along Work 5 rows straight.
remaining edge of right saddle shoulder (2 sts
in every 3 rows). Cast on 1 st using backwards Repeat last 6 rows a further 0 (2; 2; 4; 4) [5; 7; 8;
loop method. 32 (32; 34; 34; 36) [36; 37; 37; 39] 10] times. 46 (48; 50; 51; 53) [54; 57; 58; 63] sts.
sts.
Row 1 (RS): p1, [k1, p1] x3, k to end.
* Next row (RS): work armhole & neck inc as
You may find it helpful to place a marker to before. 48 (50; 52; 53; 55) [56; 59; 60; 65] sts.
remind yourself to work the 7 armhole edge
sts in rib. This marker is optional, so will not be Work 1 WS row.
referred to in the pattern. Next row / armhole inc only: [p1, k1] x4, m1R, k
to end. 49 (51; 53; 54; 56) [57; 60; 61; 66] sts.

You will now work short rows to shape the right Work 1 WS row.
shoulder. Next row / armhole inc only: [p1, k1] x4, m1R, k
Row 2 (WS): p 4 (4; 4; 4; 4) [4; 4; 4; 4], turn. to end. 50 (52; 54; 55; 57) [58; 61; 62; 67] sts.

(RS): S1, pull yarn, k to end. Work 1 WS row. **

(WS): P 10 (10; 11; 11; 11) [11; 12; 12; 12], turn.
(RS): S1, pull yarn, k to end. Repeat from * to ** further 0 (1; 1; 3; 3) [3; 4; 5;
4] times. 50 (56; 58; 67; 69) [70; 77; 82; 83] sts.
(WS): P 16 (16; 18; 18; 18) [18; 19; 19; 20], turn.
Sizes 1, 2, 4 only: omit final WS row on last
(RS): S1, pull yarn, k to end. repeat.
(WS): P 22 (22; 24; 24; 25) [25; 26; 26; 28], turn.
(RS): S1, pull yarn, k to end. On the row where you work the final neck
increase, place a removable marker on the last
(WS): P 25 (25; 27; 27; 29) [29; 30; 30; 32], k1, st (place marker on actual stitch, not on needle).
p1, k1, turn. This will be used as a reference point later.
(RS): S1, pull yarn, k1, p1, k to end.

Sizes 3, 5, 6, 7, 8 & 9 only:

Row 3 (WS): p to last 7 sts, k1, [p1, k1] x3. Repeat armhole inc. - (-; 59; -; 70) [71; 78; 83;
84] sts.

Sizes 1, 4 & 7 only: repeat row 1 then row 3. Work 1 WS row.

Repeat last 2 rows a further - (-; 1; -; 1) [4; 1; 1; 4]
times, then repeat armhole inc row once more.
All sizes: you will now begin to work increases - (-; 61; -; 72) [76; 80; 85; 89] sts.
to shape the front neck.
Next row / neck inc (RS): p1, [k1, p1] x3, k to last
2 sts, m1L, k2. 33 (33; 35; 35; 37) [37; 38; 38; 40]
sts.
Work 5 rows straight (ie. with no increases and
maintaining rib as set).
Repeat last 6 rows a further 11 (9; 9; 6; 6) [5; 3;
2; 1] times. 44 (42; 44; 41; 43) [42; 41; 40; 41] sts.

Copyright 2023 Lily Kate France. For personal use only. Pattern & items made from pattern may not be reproduced for sale.
 Page 8 of 13 #CalmDownCardigan

MAIN BODY FRONT NOTCH SHAPING

You will now join all sections together to begin You will now begin to work decreases at the
working the main body in one piece. beginning and end of rows to shape the front
opening.
Sizes 1-5 only:
Place removable markers on first and last sts on
Next row (WS): p to last 7 sts, PM, [k1, p1] x3, needle. These will be used as reference points
Place held back sts on needle with WS facing later.
ready to work across. Next row / dec: k1, SSK, [k to M, SM, rib to M,
K2tog (1 st from front together with 1 st from SM] x2, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 205 (229; 249;
back), 273; 293) [317; 337; 361; 381] sts.

[p1, k1] x3, PM, p to last 7 sts, PM, [k1, p1] x3, Work 5 rows straight.

Place held left front sts on needle with WS facing

ready to work across. Repeat last 6 rows a further 3 times. 199 (223;
K2tog (1 st from back together with 1 st from 243; 267; 287) [311; 331; 355; 375] sts.
front), Work dec row once more. 197 (221; 241; 265;
[p1, k1] x3, PM, p to end. 207 (231; 251; 275; 295) 285) [309; 329; 353; 373] sts.
[-; -; -; -] sts.

Change to 3.75mm needle.

Sizes 6-9 only: Work 1 WS row.
Next row (WS): p to last 7 sts, PM, rib 7,
Cast on - (-; -; -; -) [3; 5; 7; 9] sts using backwards HEM
loop method,
You will now begin to work in 1x1 rib for the hem.
Place held back sts on needle with WS facing
ready to work across. Sizes 3, 4, 5, 7 & 9 only:
Rib 7, PM, p to last 7 sts, PM, rib 7. Rib row 1 (RS): k2, [p1, k1] to 3 sts before M, p1,
k2tog, remove M, rib to M, remove M,
Cast on - (-; -; -; -) [3; 5; 7; 9] sts using backwards
loop method, k1, [p1, k1] to M, remove M, rib to M, remove M,
SSK,
Place held left front sts on needle with WS facing
ready to work across. [p1, k1] to last st, k1. - (-; 239; 263; 283) [-; 327; -;
371] sts.
Rib 7, PM, p to end. - (-; -; -; -) [319; 339; 363;
383] sts.
Rib row 2 (WS): p2, [k1, p1] to last st, p1.
All sizes: Rib row 3: k2, [p1, k1] to last st, k1.
Body RS row: [k to M, SM, rib to M, SM] x2, k to Rib row 4: as row 2.
end.
Sizes 1, 2, 6 & 8 only:
Body WS row: [p to M, SM, rib to M, SM] x2, p
to end. All markers can now be removed.

Repeat last 2 rows until work measures 7 (7; 6.5; Rib row 1 (RS): k2, [p1, k1] to last st, k1.
6.5; 6) [5.5; 6; 5.5; 5] inches / 17 (17; 16; 16; 15) Rib row 2 (WS): p2, [k1, p1] to last st, p1.
[13; 15; 13; 12] cm from underarm - this should be
approximately 54 (54; 50; 50; 46) [42; 46; 42; Repeat rows 1&2 once more.
38] rows since joining the main body.

Copyright 2023 Lily Kate France. For personal use only. Pattern & items made from pattern may not be reproduced for sale.
 Page 9 of 13 #CalmDownCardigan

All sizes: Using 3.5mm needle, with RS facing, and

beginning at bottom of right front, pick up and
Next row / rib dec row: k1, SSK, rib to last 3 sts, knit for buttonband as follows:
k2tog, k1. 195 (219; 237; 261; 281) [307; 325; 351;
369] sts.
Work 5 rows rib as set. 32 sts from bottom of hem to marker A (approx.
4 sts in every 5 rows), PM,
Work rib dec row once more. 193 (217; 235; 259;
279) [305; 323; 349; 367] sts. 47 (47; 49; 44; 46) [47; 46; 42; 44] sts from
marker A to marker B (again approx. 4 in 5), PM,
Work 3 rows rib as set.
74 (77; 76; 84; 82) [80; 88; 92; 90] sts from
Cast off all sts using the tubular method. marker B to start of saddle shoulder (4 in 5),
Note: my tubular cast off tutorial (and most 11 (11; 11; 11; 13) [13; 13; 13; 13] sts in saddle shoulder
others) have the first stitch of the row as a knit (1 in every st), PM,
stitch. In this pattern, the first two stitches are
both knits, so the very first stitch needs to be
treated as a purl in order for the tubular pattern
to be correct. This means you will need to begin 46 (49; 49; 51; 51) [51; 54; 56; 56] sts across back
with ‘knit on, purl on’ rather than ‘purl on, knit neck (this is 5 sts in every 4 sts along the back
on’ as suggested in the video, and begin the neck edge). Note this is not the same 4 in 5
main bind off sequence at the purl stitch step. ratio as elsewhere on the buttonband.
You will need to pick up more than 1 in every
stitch for the buttonband to lie flat across the
BUTTONBAND PICK UP back neck without buckling the fabric.
You will pick up with the RS facing, and will also
begin working the buttonband with RS facing.
To avoid breaking yarn and rejoining, pull off a
long tail of yarn (at least 4x the length of the
buttonband), and pick up using this long tail.
Your ball of yarn will remain attached to the Diagram 2: how to pick up 5 sts in every 4
bottom of the right front, ready to work the across back neck. Each downward facing ‘V’
buttonband. represents 1 stitch. Place temporary markers at
4 stitch intervals across the back neck, then pick
Note: pay attention to the markers placed during up 5 sts between each set of markers, inserting
this picking up stage, as they are essential for needle in positions indicated by red dots.
the placing of buttonholes and short rows.
C D
PM after picking up across back neck.

Then pick up and knit 11 (11; 11; 11; 13) [13; 13; 13; 13]
sts in saddle shoulder (1 in every st),
74 (77; 76; 84; 82) [80; 88; 92; 90] sts from
saddle shoulder to marker E (4 in 5), PM,
B E 47 (47; 49; 44; 46) [47; 46; 42; 44] sts from
marker E to marker F (4 in 5), PM,
32 sts from marker F to end (4 in 5).
374 (383; 385; 393; 397) [395; 412; 414; 414] sts
A F picked up in total.

Diagram 1: positions of buttonband markers

Copyright 2023 Lily Kate France. For personal use only. Pattern & items made from pattern may not be reproduced for sale.
 Page 10 of 13 #CalmDownCardigan

BEGIN BUTTONBAND Buttonhole 2nd side

Using the cable method and yarn attached to Rejoin yarn ready to work 2nd side of buttonhole
right front edge, cast on 10 sts onto left needle with RS facing.
tip.
RS row: [s1wyif, k1] x4, s1wyif, k2togtbl, turn.
Setup row: [k1, cast on 1 st onto right needle tip
using backwards loop method] x9, k2togtbl. WS row: [s1wyif, k1] x5, turn.
Repeat RS & WS rows a further 3 times, then
repeat RS row once more.
You will now begin working in double knitting for
the buttonband. Each pair of rows will ‘use up’ Work 1 regular double knitting WS row across all
1 of your picked up sts. sts. Buttonhole is now complete.

Double knitting WS row: [s1wyif, k1] to last st,

s1wyif. Note: if you adjusted the number of sts picked
Double knitting RS row: [k1, s1wyif] x9, k2togtbl, up between markers A and B, you will need to
turn. adjust the number of rows between buttonholes.
For example if you picked up 4 fewer sts than
These 2 rows establish double knitting. specified, work 2 fewer pairs of double knitting
rows between each buttonhole.
Continue to work in double knitting until there
are no more ‘unused’ sts before the marker at
position A. End with a WS row.
Work 16 (16; 17; 14; 15) [16; 15; 13; 14] pairs of
regular double knitting rows.
You will now work short rows to curve the Make second buttonhole.
buttonband.
Work 16 (16; 17; 14; 15) [16; 15; 13; 14] pairs of
Note: when working short rows in double regular double knitting rows.
knitting, remember to slip / knit BOTH legs of
the GSR stitch TOGETHER when you encounter Make third buttonhole.
them. You should have now reached marker B, which
Next row (begin RS): [k1, s1wyif] x3, k1, p1, turn, can be removed.

S1, pull yarn, s1wyif, [k1, s1wyif] x3.

[k1, s1wyif] x7, k1, p1, turn, CONTINUE BUTTONBAND

S1, pull yarn, s1wyif, [k1, s1wyif] x7. You will now work short rows to curve the
buttonband.
Work 1 pair of regular double knitting rows.
Marker A can now be removed. Next row (begin RS): [k1, s1wyif] x7, k1, p1, turn,
S1, pull yarn, s1wyif, [k1, s1wyif] x7.

BUTTONHOLES [k1, s1wyif] x3, k1, p1, turn,

Sizes 4, 5, 7, 8 & 9 only: work 1 pair of regular S1, pull yarn, s1wyif, [k1, s1wyif] x3.
double knitting rows.

Continue to work in double knitting until 4 sts

All sizes will now work the first buttonhole. remain ‘unused’ before marker C. End with a WS
row.
Buttonhole 1st side
RS row: [k1, s1wyif] x4, k1, turn.
You will now work short rows to curve the
WS row: [s1wyif, k1] x4, s1wyif, turn. buttonband around the back neck.
Repeat RS & WS rows a further 3 times, then # Work 1 regular double knitting RS row.
repeat RS row once more. Break yarn.

Copyright 2023 Lily Kate France. For personal use only. Pattern & items made from pattern may not be reproduced for sale.
 Page 11 of 13 #CalmDownCardigan

Next row (begin WS): [s1wyif, k1] x7, p1, turn. Next row (RS): SSK x2, pass first st over second
(like a regular cast off). *SSK, pass another st
S1, pull yarn, [s1wyif, k1] x6, s1wyif, k2togtbl, turn. over, repeat from * until 2 sts remain on left
[s1wyif, k1] x3, p1, turn. needle tip. K2togtbl, pass final st over and
fasten off.
S1, pull yarn, [s1wyif, k1] x2, s1wyif, k2togtbl, turn.
You should now have 1 remaining unused stitch
before marker C. SLEEVES (both worked the same)

Work regular 1 WS then RS row. Remove marker Sizes 1-5:

C. With 4mm needle and beginning at underarm,
Work another WS then RS row. pick up and knit 45 (47; 49; 51; 53) [-; -; -; -] sts
from underarm to beginning of saddle shoulder
Next row (begin WS): [s1wyif, k1] x3, p1, turn. (1 st in every 2 rows). PM.
S1, pull yarn, [s1wyif, k1] x2, s1wyif, k2togtbl, turn. Place held saddle shoulder sts on needle and
work across in rib. PM.
[s1wyif, k1] x7, p1, turn.
Pick up and knit 45 (47; 49; 51; 53) [-; -; -; -] sts
S1, pull yarn, [s1wyif, k1] x6, s1wyif, k2togtbl, from saddle shoulder down to underarm (again
turn. ## 1 in 2).
Continue to work in double knitting until 4 sts 101 (105; 109; 113; 119) [-; -; -; -] sts total. PM and
remain unused before marker D. join to begin working in the round.
Repeat from # to ##.

Sizes 6-9:
Continue to work in double knitting until 1 st With 4mm needle and beginning at centre of
remains unused before marker E. underarm, pick up and knit - (-; -; -; -) [2; 3; 4; 5]
Next row (begin RS): [k1, s1wyif] x3, k1, p1, turn, sts in underarm cast on,

S1, pull yarn, s1wyif, [k1, s1wyif] x3. - (-; -; -; -) [55; 57; 59; 61] sts from underarm
to beginning of saddle shoulder (1 st in every 2
[k1, s1wyif] x7, k1, p1, turn, rows). PM.
S1, pull yarn, s1wyif, [k1, s1wyif] x7. Place held saddle shoulder sts on needle and
work across in rib. PM.
Work 1 pair of regular double knitting rows.
Marker E can now be removed. Pick up and knit - (-; -; -; -) [55; 57; 59; 61] sts
from saddle shoulder down to underarm (again
1 in 2),
Continue to work in double knitting until there then - (-; -; -; -) [2; 3; 4; 5] sts in underarm cast
are 0 unused sts before marker F. Remove on. - (-; -; -; -) [127; 133; 139; 145] sts total. PM
marker F. and join to begin working in the round.
Next row (begin RS): [k1, s1wyif] x7, k1, p1, turn,
S1, pull yarn, s1wyif, [k1, s1wyif] x7. All sizes: you will now work short rows to shape
[k1, s1wyif] x3, k1, p1, turn, the sleeve cap.

S1, pull yarn, s1wyif, [k1, s1wyif] x3. Row 1: k to M, SM, rib to M, SM, k1, turn.
Row 2: S1, pull yarn, SM, rib to M, SM, p1,
turn.
Continue to work in double knitting until 1 st
remains unused. Row 3: S1, pull yarn, SM, rib to M, SM, k GSR
stitch, k4, turn.
You will now cast off all sts in double knitting as
follows. Row 4: S1, pull yarn, p to M, SM, rib to M, SM, p
GSR stitch, p4, turn.

Copyright 2023 Lily Kate France. For personal use only. Pattern & items made from pattern may not be reproduced for sale.
 Page 12 of 13 #CalmDownCardigan

Row 5: S1, pull yarn, k to M, SM, rib to M, SM, k to Try the cardigan on frequently to assess the
GSR stitch, k GSR stitch, k3, turn. length as you go - if it looks like the sleeve will
be short, add a round between each decrease,
Row 6: S1, pull yarn, p to M, SM, rib to M, SM, p and if it looks like it will be too long, subtract a
to GSR stitch, p GSR stitch, p3, turn. round. This will give better results than working
Repeat rows 5&6 a further 1 (2; 2; 1; 1) [2; 2; 3; 2] a section straight without decreases, which
times. would disrupt the slope of the sleeve.
After completing final decrease round, change
to 3.75mm needle and work 1 basic sleeve round.
Row 7: S1, pull yarn, k to M, SM, rib to M, SM, k to
GSR stitch, k GSR stitch, k2, turn.
Row 8: S1, pull yarn, p to M, SM, rib to M, SM, p CUFF
to GSR stitch, p GSR stitch, p2, turn. You will now begin working in rib for the cuff.
Repeat rows 7&8 a further 11 (9; 10; 14; 15) [14; Sizes 1, 2, 5, 7 & 8:
14; 14; 17] times.
Next round: s1, [k1, p1] to last st, s1, remove M,
slip st back to left needle tip, p2tog.
Row 9: S1, pull yarn, k to M, SM, rib to M, SM, k to If you are working with short circular needles
GSR stitch, k GSR stitch, k3, turn. this p2tog will be simple, if you are using DPNs /
Row 10: S1, pull yarn, p to M, SM, rib to M, SM, p magic loop / 2 circulars, you will need to transfer
to GSR stitch, p GSR stitch, p3, turn. the first stitch of the round onto your current
needle in order to work the p2tog.
Repeat rows 9&10 a further 1 (2; 2; 1; 1) [2; 3; 3;
3] times. Place BOR marker after this p2tog. 72 (76; -; -;
86) [-; 90; 94; -] sts.
There should now be 4 sts remaining either side
of the BOR marker.
Row 11: S1, pull yarn, k to M, SM, rib to M, SM, k to Sizes 3, 4, 6, & 9:
GSR stitch, k GSR stitch, k to end (BOR marker). Next round: [k1, p1] to last 3 sts, k1, p2tog. - (-;
78; 82; -) [88; -; -; 96] sts.

MAIN SLEEVE
Basic sleeve round: k to M, SM, rib to M, SM, k All sizes: All markers except BOR marker can
to end. now be removed.

Work a further 3 (7; 11; 7; 14) [18; 8; 4; 13] basic Work 4 rounds in [k1, p1] rib.
sleeve rounds.

Rib dec round: SSK, rib to last 3 sts, k2tog, p1.

You will now begin decreasing to shape the 70 (74; 76; 80; 84) [86; 88; 92; 94] sts.
sleeve. You may wish to remove markers if you Work 5 rounds in rib (stitches should be worked
are comfortable reading your knitting. as they present themselves, which means you
Dec round: k1, SSK, k to M, SM, rib to M, SM, k will sometimes have 2 knit stitches next to each
to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 99 (103; 107; 111; 117) [125; other due to decreases).
131; 137; 143] sts.
Work 6 (5; 5; 5; 4) [3; 3; 3; 2] basic sleeve rounds. Repeat last 6 rounds a further 3 times. 64 (68;
Repeat last 7 (6; 6; 6; 5) [4; 4; 4; 3] rounds a 70; 74; 78) [80; 82; 86; 88] sts.
further 12 (12; 13; 13; 14) [17; 19; 20; 22] times, Work 3 rounds in rib (8 rounds total since last
then dec round once more / 14 (14; 15; 15; 16) [19; decrease).
21; 22; 24] dec rounds total. 73 (77; 79; 83; 87)
[89; 91; 95; 97] sts. Cast off all sts using the tubular method.
Fit check: the cuff will be approximately 4” /
10cm of rib, so the sleeve needs to be 4” / 10cm
shorter than your ideal length when you finish
the decreases.

Copyright 2023 Lily Kate France. For personal use only. Pattern & items made from pattern may not be reproduced for sale.
 Page 13 of 13 #CalmDownCardigan

FINISHING
Weave in all ends and block, laying flat to
dry. Pay particular attention to opening up rib
sections and shape of front buttonbands.
Sew buttons onto left buttonband.

HAPPY KNITTING!
pattern support: lilykate@jolihouse.com
@lilykatemakes | #CalmDownCardigan

Copyright 2023 Lily Kate France. For personal use only. Pattern & items made from pattern may not be reproduced for sale.