Willow Bud Pattern

Materials The first half of the body for all versions of this
design is worked in the round as a spiral (meaning
• 5.5mm Crochet Hook you will not Sl St or Ch 1 at the beginning of each
• 6mm Crochet Hook Rnd). The second half of the body is worked in the
• About 95yds of Red Heart Hygge Yarn (#5) round, but you will “step up” for each Rnd
in Powder for body of the hat (Yarn A) (meaning you will Sl St to the first St of the Rnd and
• About 22yds of Lion Brand Go for Faux Ch 1 at the beginning of each Rnd). You must step
Sparkle (#6) in Jupiter for brim (Yarn B) up for the textured portion of the hat for the Rnds
• About 28yds of Red Heart Soft (#4) in leaf to line up, but I choose not to do so for the whole
for vine tassels (Yarn C) body of the hat because I prefer to not have visible
• 2 Stitch Markers seams on my projects unless I have to.
• Tapestry needle
For the first half of the body (when you are working
• Scissors
in a spiral) you will place your stitch marker on the
last Sc of each Rnd to keep track of where each
round ends. If you don’t own a stitch marker you
Gauge can use a safety pin or a piece of different colored
7 rows of 6 Sc = 2” – Yarn A & 5.5mm Hook yarn to keep track of your stitches.
4 rows of 5 Sc = 2” – Yarn B & 6.0mm Hook You will repeat instructions within * * as directed.
9 rows of 8 Sc = 2” – Yarn C & 5.5mm Hook
When working on the increase pattern for the body
of the hat, the number before Sc indicates the
Abbreviations (US Terms) amount of Sts you will Sc into. For example: *ScInc,
2Sc* all the way around means *2Sc in the same
Rnd – Round stitch, one Sc in the next 2Sts* and you will repeat
St(s) – Stitch(es)
what is between the asterisks until you reach the
Ch - Chain
end of the Rnd, which will be marked by a stitch
Sl St – Slip Stitch
marker.
Sc – Single Crochet
ScInc – Single Crochet Increase For the sections where you are chaining 1 at the
Hdc – Half Double Crochet end of the Rnd/Row, that Ch is not included in the
Dc – Double Crochet stitch count for the Rnd/Row.
FpDc – Front Post Double Crochet
BpDc – Back Post Double Crochet Adjusting the Sizing/ Fit: I have included
measurements of my work at various checkpoints
throughout the pattern to help guide you in
Notes finishing this project. This pattern is written to fit
the average adult sized head (which is about
This pattern includes instructions for 3 different
22.5in), however you can use my measurements
versions of the willow bud design: a bonnet, a
and guidance at those checkpoints to experiment
standard beanie, and a fisherman beanie (a beanie
that doesn’t cover the ears) with the sizing to achieve your desired size/fit. For
example, if your head is larger than 22.5in, you will
The bonnet is worked in 3 parts: The body, the want your work to measure larger than mine at
brim, and the tassels. The beanie is worked in 2 those checkpoints; if your head is smaller than
parts: The body and the brim. The fisherman
22.5in you will want your work to measure smaller
beanie is worked in only one part: the body.
than mine at those checkpoints. I have also
included a Gallery of Testers at the end of the
pattern. The Gallery of testers includes photos of *Please direct questions about this pattern to:
my testers’ hats, their head measurements, and the.entangled.fae@gmail.com and tag me in your
any adjustments they made to the pattern to get photos/videos on social media! You can find me
their desired fit to assist you in working through on:
this pattern.
• Instagram: @the.entangled.fae
If substituting yarn: please make sure you use a • TikTok: @the.entangled.fae
yarn of similar thickness and do a gauge swatch • Facebook: The Entangled Fae
with the yarn you chose to see if it matches my
gauge. When doing a gauge swatch, be sure to
make a swatch that is bigger than the
measurements provided. For example, the
swatches in this pattern are 2in x 2in, so you should
work up a swatch that is larger than that and then Copyright
measure how many rows and stitches there are in ©2023, All photos and written instructions are
2in. If your swatch does not match my gauge your intellectual property of Shelby Daft (The Entangled
sizing may be off if you choose to follow this Fae). Please do not copy, sell, or redistribute this
pattern as written rather than using the pattern in any way. Sales of finished items are
measurements at the checkpoints as a guide. I permitted for small businesses as long as credit is
would strongly recommend measuring your work given to The Entangled Fae in the product listing.
at each checkpoint to make sure you are on the Please don’t use any of my photos to advertise
right track as you work up your hat. your own products. Also please charge what you
feel your time is worth. I encourage all makers to
Foundation Stitches: You will use foundation charge no less than $20 an hour for labor. Feel
stitches for the leaves on the vine tassels free to email me if you have any questions about
(Foundation Dc, Foundation Hdc, and Foundation pricing products. I’m happy to chat through my
Sc). I have included step by step instructions and process with you. <3
many photos in that section of the pattern. If you
find you are struggling with that section, I would
recommend looking up YouTube tutorials
explaining how to do these stitches.
Body of Hat
Using 5.5mm hook and Yarn A:
Make a magic ring (If you don’t know how to make
a magic ring, you can chain 4 and Sl St in the first
chain to make a ring).
Rnd 1: 6 Sc inside of ring (Place stitch marker on
the last Sc of this round) – See fig. 1 [6sts]

Fig. 3

Rnd 7: *ScInc, 2Sc* all the way around [24sts]

Rnd 8: Sc in each St around [24sts]
Rnd 9: *ScInc, 3Sc* all the way around [30sts]

Fig. 1
Rnd 10: Sc in each St around [30sts]
Rnd 11: *ScInc, 4Sc* all the way around [36sts]
Rnd 2: Sc in each St around (don’t forget to move
your stitch marker to the last St of this Rnd and the Rnd 12: Sc in each St around [36sts]
last St of each Rnd for the remainder of this
Rnd 13: *ScInc, 5Sc* all the way around [42sts]
section) [6sts]
Rnd 14: Sc in each St around [42sts]
Rnd 3: 2Sc (which is a ScInc) in each St around
[12sts] – See fig. 2 Rnd 15: *ScInc, 6Sc* all the way around [48sts]
Rnd 16: Sc in each St around [48sts]
Rnd 17: *ScInc, 7Sc* all the way around [54sts]
Rnd 18: Sc in each St around [54sts]
Rnd 19: *ScInc, 8Sc* all the way around, Sl St to the
first Sc of this Rnd [60sts] – See fig. 4

Fig. 2
Rnd 4: Sc in each St around [12sts]
Rnd 5: *ScInc, Sc* all the way around [18sts]
Rnd 6: Sc in each St around [18sts] – See fig. 3

Fig. 4: My work measures 22cm wide and 15cm

long at this checkpoint. I have marked the final Sc
of Rnd 19 with the St marker, not the Sl St, so that
I can keep track of where the next Rnd should end.
As I said in the notes section, you will no longer be
working the rest of this section as a spiral. At the
end of the remaining Rnds of this section, you will
Sl St to the first St of the Rnd (not the Sl St). I do
recommend you continue marking the last Sc of
each Rnd with a stitch marker, so you don’t
accidentally add or drop stitches.
This is the first checkpoint. You may choose to Fig. 7: This is the inside of my work. You will do
include more or less increase Rnds before moving your Hdc in the loop the arrow is pointing at
on to Rnd 20. If you choose to do so, you can still
follow the rest of this section as written, your St
count for your Rnds just won’t match mine.
Rnd 20: Ch 1, Hdc in same St you did the Sl St into,
and each St around, Sl St to the first Hdc of this Rnd
[60Sts] – See fig. 5

Fig. 8: My hook has been inserted into the loop

Fig. 9: This is what Rnd 21 should look like once

Fig. 5 worked up

Rnd 22: Ch 1, Dc in the third loop (the loop that is

Rnd 21: Ch 1, Hdc in the third loop (the loop that is
on the backside/inside of your work) in same St
on the backside/inside of your work) in the same St
you did the Sl St into, and each St around, Sl St to
you did the Sl St into, and each St around, Sl St to
the first St of this Rnd [60Sts] – See fig. 10
the first Hdc of this Rnd [60Sts] – See fig. 6, 7, 8, & 9

Fig. 10: This is what Rnd 22 should look like once

worked up
Fig. 6: These are the loops you would normally go
into when doing Hdc, don’t go into these for this Rnd
Rnd 23: Ch 1, *FpDc, BpDc* all the way around, Sl
St to the first St of this Rnd [60Sts] – See fig. 11, 12,
& 13

Fig. 14: This is what Rnd 24 should look like once

worked up

Rnd 25: Ch 1, Sc in the third loop (the loop that is

on the backside/inside of your work) in same St
Fig. 11: To do a FpDc, you will insert your hook you did the Sl St into, and each St around, Sl St to
behind the entire Dc from the previous Rnd the first Sc of this Rnd [60Sts] – See fig. 15

Fig. 12: To do a BpDc, you will insert your hook in

front of the entire Dc from the previous Rnd

Fig. 15: My work measures 24.5cm wide and

20cm long at this checkpoint

This is the second checkpoint. If you would like

the body of your hat to be deeper you may choose
to add more Rnds of Sc.
Cut yarn, tie off. – See fig. 16

Fig. 13: This is what Rnd 23 should look like once If you are making the fisherman beanie version of
worked up this design, your hat is now complete. If you are
making either the bonnet, or standard beanie,
Rnd 24: Ch 1, Hdc in the third loop (the loop that is version of the pattern move on to the brim of hat
on the backside/inside of your work) in same St section for the version you are making.
you did the Sl St into, and each St around, Sl St to
the first Hdc of this Rnd [60Sts] – See fig. 14
 Rnd 2: Ch 1, Sc in the same St and every St around,
Sl St to the first Sc of this Rnd [60sts]
Rnd 3: Repeat Rnd 2 [60sts] – See fig. 18

Fig. 18: My brim measures 4cm wide and my

work measures 31cm long at this checkpoint
This is the third checkpoint. You may choose to
include more or less Rnds of Sc at this point.
Cut yarn, tie off, sew in loose ends. – See fig. 19

Fig. 16: The fisherman beanie version of this design

Brim of Hat (Standard Beanie)

Using 6.0mm hook and Yarn B:
Attach yarn to the St you slip stitched to at the end
of Rnd 25. (It doesn’t actually matter which St you
attach your yarn to; I choose to attach it here so
the seams line up)
Rnd 1: Ch 1, Sc in the same St you attached your
yarn to, and every St around, Sl St to the first Sc of
this Rnd [60sts] I would recommend continuing to Fig. 19: The standard beanie version of this design
use your stitch marker to keep track of the last Sc
of each Rnd of this section and counting your If you are making the standard beanie version of
stitches to make sure you don’t accidentally add this design, your hat is now complete!
or drop stitches. Furry yarn can be challenging to
work with, go slowly and be easy on yourself. Brim of Hat (Bonnet)
You’ll get it. <3 - See fig. 17 Try on your hat. Locate the stitches that line up
with the back side of your ear and place your stitch
markers one stitch closer to the seam than the
stitches you just located. For me, this was 7 Sts to
the right of my seam and 7 Sts to the left of my
seam – meaning there are 13 Sts in between the St
markers. These mark where your brim will be on
your bonnet. – See fig. 20 & 21

Fig. 17
 Attach Yarn B to the St marked by the stitch
marker that’s to the left of your seam/where you
tied off the body of your hat. – See fig. 22

Fig. 20: My St marker is one St closer to the seam

Fig. 22
than the St that lines up with my ear
Row 1: Ch 1, Sc in the St you attached your yarn to
and each stitch across until you reach the other St
marker, Ch 1, turn – See fig. 23

Fig. 21: The space between my St markers

measures 14cm at this checkpoint

Fig. 23
This is the fourth checkpoint (don’t worry, you
didn’t miss a checkpoint; the third is located in the Row 2: Sc in the same St, and every St across, Ch 1,
brim section of the standard beanie version of this turn
design which you would not have gotten to if
working on the bonnet version of this design). You Row 3: Sc in the same St, and every St across.
may choose to place your stitch markers closer or Cut yarn, tie off, sew in loose ends. – See fig. 24 &
further together depending on your desired 25
size/fit. You can still follow the rest of the pattern
as written. I recommend counting the number of
stitches that will be included in your brim (this
includes the Sts that your St markers are attached
to) For me, there are 47 Sts in my brim. Each row
in this section will have that many stitches in it. I
would recommend counting your stitches as you
Fig. 25: My brim measures 4cm wide and my
work this section to make sure you don’t
work measures 31cm wide at this checkpoint
accidentally add or drop stitches. Furry yarn can
be challenging to work with, go slowly and be
easy on yourself. You’ll get it. <3 This is the fifth checkpoint. You may choose to
include more or less rows of Sc at this point.
Using 6.0mm hook and Yarn B:
 for this first section I work up half that number of
leaves (4). For the second part of this section, you
will work your way back up the other side of the
vine to work up the other half of the leaves.
Step 2: Ch 12 – See fig. 27

Fig. 25: This is how the hat fits my head before

moving on to the tassel section of the pattern

Vine Tassels
Fig. 27
For this section, you will be using foundation Sc,
Hdc, and Dc to make the leaves of your vine. I Step 3: You will now begin your first leaf by doing a
have broken them down into step by step foundation Dc. To do so: first Ch 2 (so you should
instructions. There are also photos to guide you in now have 14 Ch total), yarn over, pull up a loop in
completing this section; however, if you are more the 2nd Ch from your hook, yarn over, pull through
of a visual learner and are struggling to the first loop on your hook, yarn over, pull through
understand how to do the foundation stitches, the first 2 loops, yarn over, pull through the
consider looking up video tutorials for them on remaining 2 loops – that was one foundation Dc. –
YouTube. There are lots out there. See fig 28
Using 5.5mm hook and Yarn C:
Step 1: Attach yarn to one of the corners of the
brim. – See fig. 26

Fig. 28: This is what one foundation Dc looks like

Fig. 26
For the first part of this section, you will be
working just one side of your vine. I like to include
8 leaves total on the vines on my hats, meaning
Step 4: Do another foundation Dc. To do so: yarn Step 5: Do a foundation Hdc. To do so: yarn over,
over, pull up a loop in what is technically the pull up a loop in the bottom of the last foundation
bottom of the first foundation Dc you made; Dc you just made (make sure you go through both
however, it will be located on the left side of your loops) – See fig 32, yarn over, pull through the first
work if you crochet with your right hand. If you loop on your hook, yarn over, pull through the
crochet with your left hand it will be located to the remaining three loops. – See fig. 33
right side of your work. Make sure you go through
both loops of the St – See fig. 29 & 30 Then: yarn
over, pull through the first loop on your hook, yarn
over, pull through the first 2 loops, yarn over, pull
through the remaining 2 loops. – See fig. 31

Fig. 32: This is where you will pull up a loop at the

beginning of step 5

Fig. 29: This is the bottom of the first foundation Dc

Fig. 33: The foundation Hdc is complete

Fig. 30: I went through both loops of the bottom
Step 6: Do a foundation Sc. To do so: pull up a loop
of the first foundation Dc
in the bottom of the foundation Hdc you just made
(make sure you go through both loops) – See fig.
36, yarn over, pull through the first loop on your
hook, yarn over, pull through the remaining two
loops. – See fig. 35

Fig. 31: The second foundation Dc is complete

 Step 9: Sc into the bottom of the foundation Sc you
made(make sure you go through both loops) – See
fig. 37 & 38

Fig. 34: This is where you will pull up a loop at the

beginning of step 6

Fig. 37: This is where you will Sc into in step 9

Fig. 35: The foundation Sc is complete Fig. 38: The Sc is complete

Step 7: Ch 2
Step 10: Hdc into the bottom of the foundation
Step 8: The first half of your leaf is complete. Now Hdc you made (make sure you go through both
you will make the second half of the leaf. First Sl St loops) – See fig. 39 & 40
into the second Ch from your hook. – See fig 36

Fig. 39: This is where you will Hdc into in step 10

Fig. 36: This is where you will Sl St into in step 8

 Fig. 44: The Dc is complete
Fig. 40: The Hdc is complete
Step 13: Sc in the next St – See fig. 45 & 46
Step 11: Dc into the bottom of the next St, which is
one of the foundation Dc you made (make sure you
go through both loops) – See fig. 41 & 42

Fig. 45: This is where you will Sc into in step 13

Fig. 41: This is where you will Dc into in step 11

Fig. 46: The Sc is complete

Fig. 42: The Dc is complete
Step 14: Sl St into the next Ch – See fig. 47 & 48
Step 12: Dc into the bottom of the next St, which is
the other foundation Dc you made (make sure you
go through both loops) – See fig. 43 & 44

Fig. 47: This is where you will Sl St into in step 14

Fig. 43: This is where you will Dc into in step 12

 Step 18: Sl St in the next 12 Ch, including the one
on the side of the next leaf from the first half of
your vine – See fig. 51

Fig. 48: The Sl St is complete

Steps 3 – 14 are how you complete one leaf on

your vine. You will now repeat steps 2-14 until
you get your desired amount of leaves/length for
your vine. If you want the same amount of
leaves/length as I do for my hats, repeat them 3 Fig. 51: Sl St were done in the next 12 Ch
more times for a total of 4 leaves on this side of Repeat steps 17 and 18 until you have worked up
the vine. the same number of leaves as you chose to do for
Step 15: Ch 20 the first half of your vine. If you are doing the
same amount that I do for my hats, you will
Step 16: You will now begin working the other side repeat these steps 3 more times.
of your vine. To do so: Sl St into the 2nd Ch from the
hook and the next 12 Ch (13 Sl St total) - See fig. 49 Step 19: Sl St into the remaining chains and into
the same spot you attached your yarn to at the
beginning of this section.
Cut yarn, tie off, sew in loose ends.
Repeat steps 1-19 on the other corner of your
brim.
Cut yarn, tie off, sew in loose ends. See fig. 52
If you are making the bonnet version of this
design, your hat is now complete!
Fig. 49: 13 Sl St have been made on the other side
of my vine

Step 17: Make a leaf by repeating the instructions

in steps 3-13 – See fig. 50

Fig. 52: This is what the bonnet version of the

Fig. 50: The first leaf on the other side of my vine design looks like
his complete
 Gallery of Testers - Fisherman Beanie

Jac (@jacintheattic) Miranda (@coastal_critter) Bugg (@buggzinga)

Head Measurement: 23in Head Measurement: 22in Head Measurement: 22in
Yarn Used: Red Heart Hygge Yarn Used: Red Heart Hygge Yarn Used: Yarn Bee Tender Touch
Adjustments: Added two Rnds Adjustments: Added one Rnd of (Bulky)
(one just Sc, one following the Inc Sc at first checkpoint to Adjustments: Added two Rnds
pattern) at first checkpoint to measure 15cm long and 23cm (one just Sc, one following the Inc
measure 15.5cm long and 23.5cm wide. No adjustments made at pattern) at first checkpoint to
wide. No adjustments made at second checkpoint. Work measure 13cm long and 21cm
second checkpoint. Work measured 21cm long and 27cm wide. No adjustments made at
measured 21.5cm long and wide. second checkpoint. Work
26.4cm wide. measured 17.5cm long and
23.5cm wide.
 Gallery of Testers - Standard Beanie

Coda (@coda.crochets) Bugg (@buggzinga) Barry (@barrykidwell) Danie (@danie.knots)

Head Measurement: 21in Head Measurement: 22in Head Measurement: 24in Head Measurement: 23.5in
Yarn Used: The Women’s Yarn Used: Yarn Bee Yarn Used: Lion Brand Yarn Used: Lion Brand Hue
Institute Soft & Chunky for Ethereal Eyelash (Bulky) Hue + Me for Yarn A. Lion + Me for Yarn A. Lion Brand
Yarn A. Divante Faux Fur for for Yarn A. Yarn Bee Fur Brand Go for Faux for Go for Faux for Yarn B.
Yarn B. the Moment (Super Yarn B. Adjustments: Added one
Adjustments: Added 3 extra Bulky) for Yarn B. Adjustments: No Rnd of Sc at first
Rnds of Sc at first checkpoint Adjustments: Added two adjustments made at first checkpoint. Work
to measure 13cm long and Rnds (one just Sc, one checkpoint. Work measured 18cm long and
19cm wide. No adjustments following the Inc pattern) measured 15cm long and 25.5cm wide. No
made at second checkpoint. at first checkpoint to 22cm wide. No adjustments made at
Work measured 20cm long measure 13.5cm long and adjustments made at second checkpoint. Work
and 25cm wide. Added one 21.5cm wide. No second checkpoint. Work measured 25.5cm long and
extra row at Third adjustments made at measured 20.5cm long 29cm wide. Added one row
checkpoint to measure 22cm second checkpoint. Work and 24.5cm wide. No of Sc at Third checkpoint.
long and 30cm wide. measured 18cm long and adjustments made to the Brim measured 5cm wide.
24.5cm wide. No pattern at Third
adjustments made at checkpoint, he did
Third checkpoint. Brim however adjust his
measured 3.5cm wide. tension to be much looser
while crocheting the
brim. His brim measured
5cm long and 36cm wide.
 Gallery of Testers - Bonnet

Nailah (@nailah.knits)
Head Measurement: 23in
Yarn Used: K+C Craft Roving Yarn for Yarn
A. Lion Brand Go for Faux for Yarn B. Big
Twist Value for Yarn C. Zinnia (@zinnia.fae) hat
Cody (@codygirllcrochets)
Adjustments: Added 2 Inc Rnds and 2 Rnds made by Jac
Head Measurement: 23in
of Sc at first checkpoint to measure 17cm Head Measurement: 24in
Yarn Used: Red Heart Hygge for
long and 23cm wide. Added 3 Rnds of Sc at Yarn Used: Red Heart Hygge for
Yarn A. Lion Brand Go for Faux
second checkpoint. Work measured 21.5cm Yarn A. Bernat Sheepy for Yarn
for Yarn B. Caron One Pound
long and 27cm wide. No adjustments made B. Lion Brand Pound of Love for
for Yarn C.
at fourth or fifth checkpoint. Yarn C.
Adjustments: Used 6mm hook
Adjustments: Added one Rnd
for body of the hat. Added one
of Sc and one Inc Rnd at first
Rnd of Sc, one Inc Rnd (added
checkpoint to measure 15.5cm
9Sc), one Rnd of Sc, and one
long and 25cm wide. No
more Inc Rnd (added 10Sc) at
adjustments made at second
first checkpoint to measure
checkpoint. Work measured
17cm long and 24cm wide. No
21.5cm long and 26cm wide.
adjustments made at second
Left 15cm gap at fourth
checkpoint. Work measured
checkpoint. No adjustments
23cm long and 30cm wide.
made at fifth checkpoint.
Used 6.5mm hook for brim.
Otherwise, no adjustments
made for fourth or fifth
checkpoint.

Kat (@kat.aldonis)
Head Measurement: 22in
Yarn Used: Red Heart Hygge for Yarn A. Lion Brand Go for Faux for
Yarn B. Knit Picks Galileo Yarn C.
Adjustments: Used 4.5mm hook for body of the hat. No
adjustments made at first checkpoint. Work measured 15cm long
and 22cm wide. No adjustments made at second checkpoint. Work
measured 21cm long and 23cm wide. Left 17cm gap at fourth
checkpoint. No adjustments made at fifth checkpoint.
 Gallery of Testers - Bonnet Continued

Taylor (@wildspringfibrearts)
Taylor (@wildspringfibrearts)
Head Measurement: 19.5in
Danie (@danie.knots) Head Measurement: 22in
Yarn Used: Red Heart Hygge for Yarn
Head Measurement: 23.5in Yarn Used: Red Heart Hygge for Yarn
A. Bernat Blanket Sparkle for Yarn B.
Yarn Used: Lion Brand Hue + A. Random yarn from stash for Yarn B.
Random yarn from stash for Yarn C.
Me for Yarn A. Lion Brand Go Random yarn from stash for Yarn C.
Adjustments: No adjustments made
for Faux for Yarn B. Big Twist for Adjustments: Added 3 extra Inc Rnds
at first checkpoint. Work measured
Yarn C. following Inc pattern and one Rnd of
15cm long and 21cm wide. No
Adjustments: Added one Rnd of Sc at first checkpoint. Work measured
adjustments made at second
Sc at first checkpoint. Work 18cm long and 27cm wide. No
checkpoint. Work measured 20cm
measured 17.5cm long and adjustments made at second
long and 24cm wide. Left 16cm gap at
24cm wide. Added 2 Rnds of Sc checkpoint. Work measured 23cm
Forth checkpoint. Added an extra
at second checkpoint. Work long and 31cm wide. Left 18.5cm gap
Rnd of Sc at fifth checkpoint. Brim
measured 24cm long and 28cm at Forth checkpoint. No adjustments
measured 4cm wide.
wide. Left 19cm gap at Forth made at fifth checkpoint.
checkpoint. No adjustments
made at fifth checkpoint.
 Gallery of Testers - Bonnet Continued

Barry (@barrykidwell) Bugg (@buggzinga)

Head Measurement: 24in Head Measurement: 22in Miranda (@coastal_critter)
Yarn Used: Lion Brand Hue + Me for Yarn Yarn Used: Bernat Roving Head Measurement: 22in
A. Lion Brand Go for Faux for Yarn B. Lion (Bulky) for Yarn A. Lion Brand Yarn Used: Red Heart Hygge for
Brand Truboo and Lion Brand Scarfie Go for Faux for Yarn B, I Love Yarn A, Go for Faux for Yarn B,
worked together for Yarn C. This Yarn for Yarn C. Random worsted yarn from
Adjustments: No adjustments made at Adjustments: Added one Rnd stash for Yarn C.
first checkpoint. Work measured 18cm of Sc and one more Inc Rnd Adjustments: No adjustments
long and 27cm wide. No adjustments following the Inc pattern at made at first checkpoint. Work
made at second checkpoint. Work first checkpoint to measure measured 15cm long and 22cm
measured 26cm long and 33cm wide. Left 14.5cm long and 22.5cm wide. wide. No adjustments made at
19.5cm gap at fourth checkpoint. No No adjustments made at second checkpoint. Work
adjustments made to the pattern at fifth second checkpoint. Work measured 20cm long and
checkpoint; he did however adjust his measured 19.5cm long and 25.5cm wide. Left 15cm gap at
tension to be much looser while 25.5cm wide. Left 18cm gap at fourth checkpoint. No
crocheting the brim. His brim measured fourth checkpoint. Added one adjustments made at fifth
7.5cm long and 44.6cm wide. Rnd of Sc at fifth checkpoint. checkpoint.