Introduction:

Before getting started allow me some private words.

First of all: Thank you Disney for creating the mandalorian series and the wonderful idea for
this ship.
Nearly 100 hours have gone in the first design of the razor crest and an additionaly 120
hours of test printing it, plus 30-40 hours for assembling and test building it. That model
was very successful on thingiverse and till this day was downloaded over 5000 times. Only
two or three people tipped me 20$ or so for it.
But many people, at least 15 or more posted pictures of “their” razor crest which they
printed with the files which I provided FOR FREE on facebook or Instagram. NOT ONE
SINGLE ONE of them gave a single comment from whom or which side the files had been
which is a clear violation of the terms and conditions on thingiverse. Some a...h…. even sold
prints of my design.
In this complete overhaul of the Razor Crest took me another 100 hours to make a
completely reworked design and adding new features and optimize it. Then it took me
another 150 hours to print all parts and additionally 50 hours to build and test everything
that all works as intended.
So please, don´t post or publish photos on any side of your finished model without
mentioning where the design came from. Thank you.
If you like the design please consider giving me a tipp so that I can continue to create Star
Wars designs and share them for free on thingiverse. Thank you.
An under no circumstances you are allowed to sell files, parts which you printed with the
help of this files or anything else which you downloaded from thingiverse! You are also not
allowed to alter the files and use this altered files to sell them or parts which you printed
from this files.

Changes made to the former model:

1. Increases the size of the model to 120%
2. Optimized the tail to have a better form of the back and the wings.
3. Added fully moveable engine brakes as seen in Episode 5 of season 1.
4. Changed the landing gear to a more stable and higher version while keeping it fully
retractable.
5. Changed the cockpit seat to a more screen accurate version.
6. Added a sleeping bunk under the cockpit floor.
7. Added some detail to the interior.
8. Added canals and other preparation to insert lightning in the model.
9. Added some details.
 Assembly Instructions
Read the complete instructions before starting the project. If you want to add lights in the
model: I added some passages with tips, marked in yellow, but no clear instructions or
layout for the wires. The battery box is in the body back part, use a 1mm thick cooper foil
for the contacts of the batteries (two AAA are needed) and very thin wires as I added cable
canals in the files, but they don´t have plenty of space in some places. (the cockpit wall for
example) If you don´t want to add lights you can skip the yellow marked passages.
Paint all parts which come inside the model first.

Explosion drawing / parts:

Gun right 1/2 Canopi Body front Seat Pilot Wing right
Wing right back
Seat back front
Cockpit Door right Wing right
front
floor Cover
Body back
Wall front 2
Body middle Body tail
Wall front 1
Wall middle

Pin (8x)

LGR
Pusher 1 (2x)
Pin main
Pusher 2 (2x)

Lever 1 (8x) LGL arm

LGF box right
LGL cover
Bunk Ramp
Door left
LGL ski 1
LGF Ski right Wing left
LGF box left front
LGF arm LGL ski 2
Gun left 2 Flap (8x)
Wing left
LGF Ski left Engine light (2x) back
Gun left 1
Lever 2(8x) Wing right
front

Printing Instructions:
I recommend printing all parts in medium quality, 0.2mm layer thickness.
The three main body parts need approximately 20 hours, each wing part 10 hours.
Overall time to print all parts is 120-150 hours.
Print all main parts as they are oriented in the files, all needed supports are included in the
parts, so activate “no supports” in your slicer. The only parts where supports are needed
are LGL ski ½ (Landing Gear Left) and LGR (Landing Gear right) ski ½.
Orient all small parts on their flat sites, the seats on the backrests. Place the doors and the
ramp with their outsides on the print bed.
Print the engine light parts in yellow and don´t paint them, so the light can shine through
and illuminate the engine exhaust.
 Assembly:
Preparation if you want add lights in the modell: Place LEDs in the 4 holes (3V/3mm
diameter) and dip switches in the 3 holes. (standard 7x5x3mm switches). I used them to
turn on cockpit lights, engines and positioning lights separately). Connect the lights with the
correspondent switches and places wires.

LED

LED (3x)

Switches (3x)
Cocpit panel

Place a transparent foil behind the cockpit panel.

Assemble the cockpit as shown:

Add two dymo magnets (9.2mm diameter) in the round holes on each side of wall front
They will hold the front doors closed.
Seat back
Seat pilot
Wall front 2

Cockpit floor

Wall front 1
bunk

Magnet
Assemble the landing gears:
Don´t clue the ski-parts to the arms and the arm of the front landing gear to the box, they
should turn freely . Assemble the LGR parts mirrored as the LGL parts. Watch the picture
closely how to add the cover to the landing gears.
LGF box left
LGF box right

LGL cover

LGL arm
LGF arm

LGF ski left LGL ski 1 LGL ski 2

LGF ski right

Assemble the engines:

Make 8 levers out of the 16 lever ½ parts by clueing together all lever 1 parts to lever 2
parts. Clue together the four pusher parts. Sand the round hole in the wings and the
outside of the pusher very thoroughly and test if the pusher moves very smooth inside the
hole. (use silicon spray if necessary)

Wing left
front

Pusher 2

Pusher 1

<

Lever 1 groove

Lever 2
Round end
No comes a tricky part: Insert one lever in each slot of the wing front parts (see picture for
orientation of the lever) and turn them so that they completely disappear in the slot and fix
them by clamping a sheet of paper between the lever and the slot. Now insert the pusher
inside the hole so that it sticks out about 5mm on the back. Now turn the four levers with a
small screwriver so that the round end moves into the groove of the pusher. Then push the
pusher all the way in. Remove the paper. Now all four lever should move out of the slots,
and if you pull back the pusher they should move back into the slot. Remark: don´t move
the pusher with the back side over the back side of the wing, or the levers move out of the
groove again and you have to start over. If you want the flaps to close automatic you can
add a spring (ca. 10mm diameter) in the hole on the front of the pusher.
Clamp some paper between the lever of the pusher and the wing to keep the pusher in
place. I recommend to wait with clueing the flaps to the levers till you are finished
assembling and painting the whole razor crest.
Add three LEDs in the engine light part, connect the wires. Glue the engine light part in the
wing back part.
Add two pins in the rectangular holes in the front wing, and glue the back wing to the front
wing. You now can remove the clamp from the pusher.

pin

Engine light

Wing front Wing back

Middle body assembly:
Insert wall middle and pin main into body middle:

Front assembly:
Remove the supports from the body front.
Place two LEDs in the small holes and connect them
Glue the Landing gear front assembly into the rectangular hole in the bottom
Glue the cockpit assembly into the body front.
Lay the needed wires through the holes in the side of the front part walls while doing so.
See yellow arrows

Body front

LED holes

Cut away

LG Front assembly Cockpit assembly

Main Assembly:
Put a small dymo magnet in the hole above the opening of the ramp. Put a piece of wire in
each of the small holes on top of the doors and ramp. (so that the magnets hold the doors
and ramp closed. Remove the supports on the landing gear holes on body middle and back.
Body back

Cover

Insert cooper sheet

Insert cooper sheet

Battery compartment (2x

AAA)
Insert wire
ramp

magnet

Insert the assemblies of the landing gear left and right into the body middle. Place the
remaining four pins into the rectangular holes in the body middle. Place the cover in the
body back. Add two leds in the small round holes of the body tail, place two copper sheet
pieces in the small slots in the battery compartment in the body back. Connect all wires and
test them before you proceed.
Place the two doors in the body middle. Place the rampin the body back. Glue the body
front assembly to the body middle assembly. Glue the body back to the body middle. Glue
the body tail to the body back. Assemble the guns and glue them in the round holes in the
body front. Glue the wings to the main body. Set the canopy on the body front and use a
small wire (1mm diameter) in the small holes of the hinges to fix it. Glue the flaps on the
levers of the engines. The rectangular end of the lever goes in the small rectangular groove
of the flap. Be aware that one side of the flap is slightly longer, that side faces toward the
front intake of the engine.
Congratulations, the Razor Crest Mark 2 is finished!!!

Follow me on thingiverse for future updates, like a mor detailed cockpit panel and details to
add to the interior.

For clarification: These lighter gray parts are the supports which have to been cut away on
the three body parts: