 INTRODUCTION

 INGREDIENT DATABASE
 INFORMATION TO NOTE
 FORMULATION RECIPES
 NEROLIE NATURE PRODUCT LINE AND WORKSHOPS
 SUPPLIER’S DETAILS
 EXERCISE NOTES

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INTRODUCTION:

Nerolie Nature Skincare brings to you an advanced skincare formulation book which will
serve as a guide and reference to your skincare formulations. With notes given, you
stand a chance of creating your own unique formulas as against following skincare
recipes found via internet search. It is imperative to note that you must read all
information given before attempting any of the formulations below to help avoid you
wasting ingredients, having wrong product outcome and stability issues. All recipes
given are tried, tested and trusted by Nerolie Nature team, clients and friends.

Our aim of coming up with this book is to debunk all tutorials that are given wrongly to
women who desire to make their own products and help them to protect their skin. The
skin is a valuable asset to us and should be properly taken care of. You will find in the
ingredient database notable categories of ingredients and purpose of usage to help
inspire knowledge and ideas. This will in turn help you to make right choice of
ingredients when formulating your own recipes. Our formulations have a modern high
performance which can be used to start up a small profitable business if you so desire.

Mother Nature has blessed us with immense abundance of botanicals, clays, salts, oils,
herbs, spices and naturally occurring ingredients that nourish, heal and beautify us.
Let’s delve in and explore their unique properties!

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 INGREDIENT DATABASE

Aloe Vera gel- this gel is gotten from the aloe vera plant. It deeply moisturizes and aids
skin healing. It soothes sunburns, provides temporary emulsification of other oils and
liquids at minimum measurements. Aloe vera gel contains powerful antioxidants and
bioactive compounds which include vitamins, minerals and amino-acids.

AHA: AHA is known as alpha hydroxy acid. AHAs are derived from various sources
such as milk, cane sugar, lemon, apples and strawberries. In low concentrations (less
than 3%), they work as water binding agents. In concentrations greater than 4% and
with an acidic base of ph 3 to 4, they exfoliate the skin cells by breaking down the
substance in skin that holds the skin cells together. Skin-friendly and most effective
AHAs are lactic and glycolic acid. Other acids such as tartaric acid, citric acid and malic
acid are unstable and less skin-friendly. Sunscreen is important to use when using
AHAs.

Allantoin: Allantoin is an anti-irritant and is a by-product of uric acid extracted from urea
and considered an effective anti-irritant. It acts as a skin moisturizer.

Arrowroot: This is the powdered root of a caribbean plant. A wonderful ingredient in

baby powder. Use it in lotion and creams to help moisture penetrate the skin.

Alpha-arbutin: Alpha arbutin is derived from the leaves of bearberry plant. It is

considered a safe alternative to hydroquinone in inhibiting melanin production. It is very
effective in skin lightening without adverse side effects and works on all skin types. It
actually works faster than kojic acid which is also a skin lightener.

Bearberry Extract: This is an extract with anti-bacterial and anti-oxidant properties. It

has mild lightening properties and an extract derived from hydroquinone and alpha-
arbutin.

Beeswax- Beeswax is gotten from the hive of bees which the bees use as glue. To the
skin, it offers anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antiviral benefits making it helpful in
treating the skin. It provides a protection against irritants while still allowing the skin to
breathe.

Beetroot Extract: Beetroot extract is gotten from the beetroot plant. It is a great anti-
oxidant and is used majorly as a pigment or coloring for soap making, lip balms and
other skincare colored ingredients.

BHA- Also known as beta-hydroxy acid. This is commonly reffered to as salicyclic acid
which is an ingredient effective in the treatment of acne and other skin inflammations.

Borax: Also known as sodium benzoate is a naturally occurring alkaline mineral which
is used in emulsifying oil and water emulsions. Borax cannot be used alone in

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emulsifying skincare products. It must be used with beeswax to create a reaction that
can emulsify products.

Butters- Butters (such as shea, cocoa, avocado, coconut, murumuru, kukui, kokum) are
created from the fruit oil through a unique hydrogenation process which yields its
characteristic nature. The butters are solid at room temperature but has varying melting
properties which make them ideal for flexible use on the skin. They are used in all types,
of soaps, lotions, lip products or other blend and can be used by themselves as well.

Carrier Oils: Also known as base oils, these oils are called emollients and can be used
alone or as a base oil to dilute essential oils. There are different carrier oils and their
production process is different from distillation. Some of these carrier oils include, jojoba
oil, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, extra virgin olive oil, rice bran oil, macerated carrot oil,
black seed oil, moringa oil, grapeseed oil, macadamia nut oil, borage oil, evening
primrose oil, etc.

Carbormer: Carbormer acts an emulsion stabilizer and helps to adjust viscosity of a

product and can therefore be classified as a thickening agent.

Calendula: Common marigold which contains salicylic acid. The fresh juice has been
known to vanish warts. This flower soothes and heals. It is used in products for babies
and people with sensitive skin.

Castor oil: This is the only oil that will dissolve in alcohol. It comes from a shrub. You
can find castor oil at your local drug store- though these usually aren't organic.

Chamomile: Is used in lotions and creams to sooth irritated skin. Commonly found as a
tea.

Cetearyl Acohol: This is a wheat straw & sugar derived emulsifier that creates very
stable non oily creams and lotions. It is also an ingredient found in emulsifying wax.

Cetyl Alcohol: This is an emulsifying wax made by combining fatty alcohols derived
from vegetable sources. In skincare products, it is used as an emollient, thickening
agent, moisturizer, stabilizer and carrying agent for other ingredients to be used when
making a product. Cetyl alcohol cannot be used solely in emulsifying products. It must
be used (in small quantities) in combination with emulsifying wax to create creams that
are stable and thick.

Clay: Types of clays are: bentonite, kaolin, green, French and pink clay. They are
usually gotten from powdered rock containing zinc, calcium, iron, magnesium,
potassium, aluminum and silica. Clay draws out dirt, oil and toxins when used in a face
mask. Highly beneficial when mixed with oil or honey to moisturize.

Co-enzyme Q10- Is antioxidant known to encourage cellular energy and delay the
visible signs of skin ageing. It is a small molecule that is easily absorbed into the skin

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cells. This potent antioxidant also stimulates the circulation and boosts cellular
oxygenation.

Cornstarch: Absorbs moisture and used in powders, skin-cleansing milk, milk baths
and deodorants.

Emulsifying wax: Emulsifying wax is a combination of cetearyl alcohol, polysorbate 60,

PEG 150, stearate and steareth-20. This wax is used to combine oils and water
together. The result of combination using emulsifying wax is a cream. Emulsifying wax
gives a soap like feel when used in high amounts during a cream production process.
Emulsifying wax is melted along with carrier oils and other oil-soluble ingredients at
specific temperatures required by the formulation given. It is therefore noted that even
tough emulsifying wax can be heated at a high temperature other oils being melted with
it might not have high heat resistance and so should be taken into consideration during
your heat phase.

Essential oils: These are concentrated and potent oil that often come in little amount
and are different from carrier oils. Essential oils are prepared through a distillation
process and are unrefined. These oils are not to be used undiluted on the skin as it can
cause an allergic reaction. Most essential oils are to be avoided during pregnancy or
while taking serious medication. Some notable essential oils used in different skincare
formulations are as follows: frankincense, lavender, Carrotseed, helichrysum, german
chamomile, geranium, bergamot, lemon, lemongrass, benzoin, sandalwood, teatree,
etc.

Ghee: Also known as clarified, natural butter is one of nature's richest moisturizers, with
cooling properties and nourishing properties, ghee penetrates deep into the tissues to
strengthen and protect the skin, help slow down cellular aging and relieve fatigued eyes.
Extremely strengthening and softening on skin tissue. It is also used in the category of
other skincare butters in making body butters and other skincare products.

Glycerin: Glycerin is a water soluble humectant. It has a high boiling point and can be
dissolved in water and alcohol. It is also hygroscopic which makes it an excellent
ingredient to moisturize the skin. Glycerin is used in lotion making formulations to help
bring in and sustain moisture into the skin. It is also an important ingredient in the
natural soap making process as it aids in providing moisture to the skin and having an
improved soap lather.

Honey: Honey is a natural anti-bacterial ingredient gotten from bees. It is chock full of
anti-oxidants and helps in slowing down aging process, improving skin complexion,
alleviating acne and overall boost of healthy and glowing skin. It is used in little amounts
in lotion making as well as healing salves and hair products.

Hydrosols: Hydrosols are known as floral waters and are a great substitute to usage of
distilled water in skincare product making. They also add other benefits to the skin
based on their flower in which they were distilled from. Hydrosols can also be used

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alone on the skin as toners in deep cleansing, tightening pores and hydration. Some of
the hydrosols that are popular and effective in skincare production are rose, orange
blossom also known as Neroli, sandalwood, lavender, witch hazel, chamomile, teatree,
etc.

Kojic acid: This is a natural acid with the primary purpose of lightening skin
pigmentation. A safer alternative to hydroquinone. It is widely used in a lot of cosmetics
(Nerolie Nature is no exception). Although an unstable ingredient and easily oxidizes, it
is very effective when paired with other skin lightening agents like alpha arbutin, licorice
extract and vitamin c.

Lanolin (vegetable-derived): Usually derived from sunflower, it is a 100% pure

vegetable poly-glyceride. It is a natural and better replacement for Vaseline-like balms
and gives deep moisturizing, hydrating and protective benefits to the skin.

Lecithin: A great antioxidant, emulsifier and emollient. It is extracted from soybeans or

other plants. Used in lotions and creams because it helps skin absorb moisture and hold
onto it longer. It comes in liquid or powder form.

Licorice extract: This is a plant with anti-inflammatory properties. It is also an

ingredient that inhibits melanin production and is effective in the treatment of
hyperpigmentation and dark spots. It works well when paired with other lightening
ingredients.

L-ascorbic acid: (also known as vitamin c powder) becomes unstable and oxidizes
once in contact with oxygen and water so only good for powder only formulations.

Mint: Mint is an antibacterial stimulator of the mind and body. It encourages circulation
to the skin. It cleanses and freshens the air and aides in arousal. It also encourages dry
skin to produce its own moisture.

Micellar: The simple act of swiping with a cotton ball or pad is all it takes with this
formula. Micellar technology- acts like a magnet, pulling off all the dirt, oil and makeup
on your skin, The floral waters/hydrosols increase specific water hydration in the skin
surface. *Please note: Not be suitable for sensitive eyes, so keep the eyes closed when
removing eye make up with this formula type.

Mulberry extract: A plant extract that has been shown to also inhibit melanin
production and becomes more potent when paired with kojic acid.

Multifruit acid: This is a concentrated blend of about 5 botanical extracts: bilberry,

sugar cane, sugar maple, orange and lemon. Care should be taken when using this acid
as well as other acids and sun protection should be used at all times when using an
acid.
Niacinamide: A water soluble powder. The active form of Vitamin B3. Does not have
the same toxic effect as niacin. It is non-irritating and improves the appearance of aged

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and photo-damaged skin. Very hydrating to the skin. Lightens the skin. Has shown to
reduce fine lines. Has shown to even out skin tone. Usage: 1-3%

Papaya extract: A great antioxidant, rich in vitamin C, beta carotene. It nourishes skin.
The enzyme of the extract is used as an exfoliate in face masks and other skin
exfoliating products.

Sandalwood: It aides in healing dry, swollen and chapped skin, also an effective mild
skin lightener. Can be found in powder form as well as hydrosols and essential oil.

Sea Salt: Exfoliates and promotes circulation. It stimulate the skin’s natural repair
process and clears energy in aura.

Stearic Acid: It is used to bind and thicken creams and lotions at about 2-5% (about 2
teaspoons in a 16 ounce batch of lotion). 100% palm derived stearic acid can be used
with no added chemicals, emulsifiers or other agents. It barely dissolves in water and
partially dissolves in alcohol or witch hazel.

Surfactant: These are plant based natural cleansing & foaming agents, which are used
in the production of liquid soaps and liquid cleansing formulas.

Triglycerides are a specific fraction of coconut / palm oil fatty acids resulting in only the
more stable, and skin loving, caprylic & capric fatty acids which creates a dry, silky oil
form of esters. This oil offers low viscosity and excellent oxidative stability, and anti-
oxidant protection, with an unlimited shelf life.

Vinegar: We would be referring to apple cider vinegar here. It is an antibacterial liquid.

Mainly used in herbal washes and baths. It does not leave an odor at all. Apple cider
vinegar flakes off dead skin cells. Helps fight acne. Add an aspirin to the wash to fight
severe acne. It is also importantly used as a toner as it balances the pH of the skin.

Vitamin C: Comes in different forms as L-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium
ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl
phosphate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate).It is an antioxidant and fights aging. Helps to
even out skin tone, clear off dark spots, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles and fine lines.

Vitamin E: It is an antioxidant and helps to extend the shelf life of a product. It also
helps to prevent quick oxidation of active ingredients that are quick to oxidize such as
kojic acid and vitamin C. It heals sun and pollution damaged skin and heals scars. It
heals diaper rash and gives a baby smooth defined skin.

Witch hazel: This is an antiseptic, astringent, antibacterial liquid. This ingredient has
been used for years for the superb astringent properties it has in cleaning the skin and
shrinking pores – refining the skin's texture. It stabilizes the barrier function of the skin,
reduces inflammation and redness, calms the skin and reduces its water loss. Make
sure to get alcohol free witch hazel at all times.

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Xanthan Gum: Skin conditioner and Emulsifier. It thickens products when added to
body lotions and creams. Also used to create gel-like emulsions. (A favorite of Nerolie
Nature). It is not affected by temperature, salt, pH or enzymes.

Zinc Oxide: Approved by the FDA as both a skin protector and a sunscreen, it has
been recognized as safe and effective for years. According to the FDA "it was perhaps
the most frequently used agent in topical dermatotherapy." They also say "zinc oxide
has a cooling, slightly astringent, antiseptic, antibacterial and protective action." Many
medical studies have shown that topically applied zinc oxide can yield the essential
element zinc that provides a host of nutritional benefits to the skin. Zinc oxide is the only
ingredient that is FDA-recognized as having both UVB and UVA rays protection.

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 INFORMATION TO NOTE

The following information should be read thoroughly as these are guides to help you
with successful formulations and stable products.

 All formulations shall be categorized according to the following:

- Face washes (also known as facial cleansers)
- Body washes and body soaps
- Toners
- Masks
- Body and face creams
- Herbal Salves
- Serums

 It is imperative that all products should be sample tested before making larger
batches or making for commercial purposes.
 Do a thorough research on the solubility of your ingredients, e.g. plant
compounds to ensure how best to achieve its effectiveness when making your
products.
 When using substitutes of ingredients listed in a recipe ensure that the ingredient
you intend to use is of the same property, will give the same benefit and respond
in the same way as the one listed in recipe when formulating. This is essential
because substitution sometimes changes the chemistry, ph and outcome of a
formula. The benefit might not come out as expected and might cause reactions
when in use.
 Additives referred to here are your active ingredients, clays, botanical powders,
fruit extracts and exfoliates.
 When working with acids such as glycolic and lactic acids, the ideal low
concentrations used should be from 2%-10%. In the case of peels, high
concentrations not greater than 40% should be used. The final formulation
should be a pH of 4 to make it suitable for skin use and avoid irritating the skin.
 Ingredients such as kojic acid, ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10), alpha arbutin,
licorice extract, gigawhite, mulberry and bearberry extracts, vitamin C, allantoin,
phyto-keratin, coffee extract, aloe vera concentrate, hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed
amino acid peptides, soy rice peptides, etc are referred to as active ingredients.
They are most conveniently added at the cool down phase of your base product
otherwise stated by your supplier.
 Additives/active ingredients should be used according to supplier/manufacturer’s
measurements. Going over-board with usage might cause a change in the ph of
your final product, reaction upon usage, or change in composition of individual
ingredients used to create such product, therefore not getting the benefits
needed as desired.
 Some actives that should NEVER be paired together are:
- Niacinamide and ascorbic acid (Due to their restrictive Ph differences, both will
react and cancel out each other, making effectiveness useless)

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 - Niacinamide and AHA (all AHAs: lactic, glycolic, tartaric, malic, salicylic,
mandelic, citric) (Same reason as stated above for ascorbic acid)
- Retinols and ascorbic acids (too much strength of vitamins causing a reaction
upon usage)
- Retinol and AHAs (this will cause redness and irritations)
- Retinol and acne treatment ingredients (this will cause dryness to the skin).
- Vitamin C and AHAs (this makes the Ph of the product to be quite acidic and a
potential irritant upon skin usage.)
 In lotion making, never use more than 30% of your oils. This will create a shiny or
greasy after look.
 The lesser the amount of water used, the longer your product blend will last and
stay emulsified. Other good alternatives to distilled water are hydrosols, aloe vera
gel or juice or only anti-oxidant teas like green tea, none other.
 When infusing herbs into oils for making balms and salves or other herbal
products, make sure to infuse into oil with slow cooker method for at least 3
hours to enable properties of herb infuse into oil along with an addition of vitamin
E to help avoid oxidation or rancidity of your oils.
 When trying to make use of heat infusion for herbal extracts to use in products
make sure to use dried herbs and infuse on low heat for minimum of 45 minutes
to a maximum of an hour.
 Beeswax is not an emulsifier and so should not be used as a substitute to
emulsifying wax.
 Make sure to use antioxidants such as vitamin E to slow down the oxidation
process of an unstable active ingredient and oils used in your formulations.
 Vitamin E and grapefruit seed extracts are not preservatives. They are anti-
oxidants. Endeavor to use a broad spectrum preservative when making an oil-
water emulsified product or water based product. Anhydrous products (an oil-
based product) require no preservatives only anti-oxidants to boost the oils
efficacy.
 Below are carrier oils and essential oils chart guide to help you in your selection
of oils when formulating your own products.

CARRIER OILS CHART

OILY/ACNE COMBINATION DRY SKIN SENSITIVE SKIN MATURE/AGING EYECARE
PRONE SKIN SKIN SKIN
HEMPSEED JOJOBA OLIVE PEACH KERNEL PUMPKIN RICE BRAN
JOJOBA HAZELNUT AVOCADO APRICOT ROSEHIP SEA
KERNEL BUCKTHORN
POMEGRANATE SAFFLOWER SWEET JOJOBA POMEGRANATE CAMELLIA SEED
ALMOND
SAFFLOWER POMEGRANATE WALNUT BORAGE SEA THISTLE
BUCKTHORN
CASTOR BLACKSEED ARGAN EVENING ARGAN POMEGRANATE
PRIMROSE OIL
BLACKSEED SUNFLOWER CASTOR CALENDULA CAMELLIA HAZELNUT
SEED

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CAMELLIA MACADAMIA ROSEHIP EVENING
NUT PRIMROSE
NEEM CAMELLIA BLACKSEED WALNUT
SUNFLOWER COMFREY MACADAMIA
NUT
ROSEHIP SEED HEMP SEED BORAGE
EVENING NEEM CARROT
PRIMROSE
SUNFLOWER
SEED

ESSENTIAL OILS CHART

DRY SKIN OILY SKIN/ACNE AGEING
ROSE LAVENDER FRANKINCENSE
CHAMOMILE GERANIUM MYRHH
SANDALWOOD FRANKINCENSE ROSE
LAVENDER TEATREE SANDALWOOD
NEROLI ROMAN & GERMAN NEROLI
CHAMOMILE
THREAD VEINS COMBINATION SKIN NORMAL SKIN
ROSE GERANIUM LAVENDER
CHAMOMILE LAVENDER ROSE
LEMON ROSE CHAMOMILE
CYPRESS CHAMOMILE NEROLI
GERANIUM
FRANKINCENSE
PUFFY SKIN SENSITIVE SKIN DEHYDRATED SKIN
JUNIPER CHAMOMILE LAVENDER
CYPRESS LAVENDER GERANIUM
GERANIUM ROSE CHAMOMILE
LAVENDER ROSE
LEMON FRANKINCENSE

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12 | P a g e
 FORMULATION RECIPES

CLEANSERS:

The importance of cleansing:

Cleansing of the skin involves the removal of dirt, pollutants, excess oils and dead skin
cells. Although we are not subjected to pollutants, make up or grime during the night,
our skin releases toxins as well as sweat. It is that glow you get when you wake up-
often times due to the accumulation of sweat overnight.

For a person who wears make up or sunscreen a double cleanse is essential at night.
Firstly to remove makeup or sunscreen, then secondly to remove any remaining debris
and the first stage cleanser. The use of exquisite lotions and potions is ineffective if you
haven't cleansed your skin properly as it sits on any remaining skin debris making it
difficult for your lotions to penetrate the upper layers.

There are different types of cleansers (some of which will be given in this book) that are
of high performance and offer anti-pollution skincare.

RECIPE 1:

Anti-Pollution Cleansing Concentrate (cleansing balm)

(Suitable for all skin types)
40g emulsifying wax
20g Shea or Mango butter
25g Moringa seed oil
12g Lauryl glucoside (surfactant used in making liquid soap. Any other surfactant or
surfactant solubilizer alternative can be used e.g polysorbate 20)
1.5g Beeswax
0.5g Vitamin E
0.5g Germall plus (broad spectrum preservative)
0.4g Rosemary antioxidant

Melt both the emulsifying wax, Lauryl glucoside (or chosen surfactant), and butter in a
double boiler over a low heat. Remove from heat once fully melted and stir well with a
hand whisk. Add the Moringa seed oil whilst cooling and stir. Place the bowl in a bowl of
cold water and keep mixing until it thickens. Now add the Germall plus, Vitamin E &
Rosemary antioxidant & mix again. Pour in to a pot/jar and leave to set.

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RECIPE 2:

Sea Weed Deep Cleansing Gel

(Suitable for dry and mature skin types/ any other sea ingredient can be substituted
e.g. sea kelp or algae extract)

Phase A
Distilled water 66.4%
Sea weed extract 3%
Sea salt (to serve as a thickener) 0.8%
Cucumber extract (any other extract can be used) 3%

Phase B
Surfactant (pick the one suitable for skin type. E.g. sulfosuccinate for oily skin, etc) 12%
Coco betaine 12%
Polyquarternium (conditioning agent. Can be skipped,if skipping add measurement back
to water) 2%

Phase C
Preservative 0.5% (for liquid germall plus)
Essential oil of choice 1%

Combine phase A ingredients, stir well. Add phase B to phase A, gently mixing in the
surfactants. (You might need to slightly heat). Once fully combined, add in phase C.

RECIPE 3:

Astringent Facial Cleanser

(suitable for normal to oily skin types)

Phase A
Distilled water (or any herbal water of your choice) 41%
Witch hazel extract 34%
Guar gum (conditioning thickener) 0.5%
Propane 1,3, diol (or any other humectant of your choice) 2%
Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) 1%

Phase B
Sulfosuccinate (or any other surfactant of your choice) 15%
Coco betaine 5%

Phase C
Preservative 0.5-1% (depending on choice of preservative)
Essential oil of choice (optional) 1%

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Dissolve the guar gum in the propane diol first. Mix phase A ingredients together in a
beaker, then add in phase B ingredients, gently stirring till completely homogenized. Mix
in phase C ingredients.

RECIPE 4:

Facial Cleansing Milk with Aloe Vera:

(Suitable for dry and matured/aging skin types)

Phase A
Tryglyceride 9%
Sweet almond oil 12%
Emulsifying wax 5%
Glycol Stearate 2%

Phase B
Distilled water 44.8%
Guar gum (or xanthan gum) 0.5%
Aloe vera juice 22%
Glycerin (or any humectant of choice) 2%

Phase C
Provitamin B5 (Panthenol) 1%
Allantoin 0.5%
Preservative 0.5-1% (depending on preservative choice)
Essential oil of choice 0.5% (optional)

Add phase A ingredients into a beaker and heat to melt in a double boiler,
simultaneously add phase B ingredients to another beaker and warm up. Add phase A
into phase B and stir till final homogenous consistency is established. Allow to cool
down before stirring phase C ingredients.

RECIPE 5:

Facial Cleansing Oil:

(For dry and matured/aging skin types)

Phase A
Sunflower oil 50%
Tryglyceride 43.5%
Glycol distearate (or polysorbate 80) 3%
Licorice extract (preferably glycerin infused or tincture made) 2%
Propane 1,3, diol (or any humectant of choice) 1%
Vitamin E 0.25%

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Phase B
Essential oil of choice 0.5%

A preservative free formula. If using glycol distearate, heat up with oils to melt. If using
polysorbate 80 skip on the heating and mix all phase A ingredients together. Mix in
phase B ingredients afterwards.

RECIPE 6:

White willow bark Facial Cleanser

(suitable for irritated and sensitive skin types)

Phase A
Distilled water 71%
White willow bark extract (preferably glycerin infused) 5%
Humectant of choice 2%
Provitamin B5 (panthenol) 1.5%

Phase B
Sulfosucinate (or any other surfactant of choice) 15%
Coco betaine 5%

Phase C
Preservative of choice 0.5-1%
Essential oil of choice (optional) 0.5%

Add phase A ingredients to a beaker and mix. Add in phase B ingredients to phase A
and mix gently to avoid too much foam. Next add in phase C ingredients.

BODY WASHES
The importance of body washes:
Just as the importance of facial cleansers is noted, so also is body washes. Body
washes are more preferred because they add moisture to the skin with the addition of
emollients and other skincare ingredients. They are the easiest to make and with variety
of formulas. In this section we will be takin a look at body washes that are both water
based and creamy for different purposes.

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RECIPE 1;

Mild Green tea bodywash:

(suitable for all skin types)

Phase A
Green tea infusion(any other tea can be used as well) 54%
Guar gum 1%
Glycerin (or any other humectant of choice) 2%

Phase B
Sulfosuccinate (can be switched to coco glucoside. If using coco glucoside, switch
measurements with coco betaine to get a more lathery product) 22%
Coco betaine 10%
Decyl glucoside 5%
Glycol distearate 2%
Glyceryl cocoate 3%

Phase C
Essential oil of choice (optional) 0.5%
Preservative 0.5-1%

Make a tea infusion with water of your preferred herb and let it cool. Mix gum into
glycerin and add to tea. Add phase B ingredients to double boiler and heat up to melt
the glycol distearate. Combine phase A with phase B, stirring gently. Mix in phase C.
Ensure to adjust the pH of your formulation to at least 6. You can make this an
exfoliating shower gel by adding in exfoliants at the end of the formulation.
Recommended between 6-10%

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RECIPE 2:
Creamy shower gel
(suitable for dry and matured skin types)

Phase A
Distilled water 24% (herbal water can also be used)
Glycerin (or any other humectant) 15%
Xanthan gum 1%

Phase B
Coco glucoside 15%
Coco betaine 8%
Sulfosuccinate (or decyl glucoside) 5%
Glycol distearate 2%
Glyceryl cocoate 1%

Phase C
Oil of choice 18%
Tryglyceride 5%
Cetyl alcohol 2%
Stearic acid 2%

Phase D
Polyquarternium 1%
Essential oil of choice 0.5%
Preservative 0.5-1%
Citric acid (to adjust ph)

Add phase A ingredients to double boiler and heat up. Do the same for phase B to melt
the glycol distearate.Heat up phase C. Combine phase A and phase B, and then phase
C to phase AB, stirring gently. Allow to cool. Add in phase D

TONERS:

The importance of toning:

Often times, people tend to skip this stage which is very beneficial in terms of restoring
the skins PH (that is the acid balance of the skin which is around 5.5) especially when
water is used to cleanse the skin. Water can disrupt the skins natural PH for several
hours, although the skin will restore back to the correct PH by then. Using a toner also
enables the user to add more actives to their skin right after cleansing. Toners help by
balancing, adds an extra layer of hydration as well as refreshing the skin and refining
the pores.

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In this next section we will take a look at formulating high performance toners (mists or
spritzers).

RECIPE 1:

Hydrating Micellar Water:

(Suitable for all skin types)
90g Floral Hydrsol (rosewater or orange blossom or lavender hydrosol)
3g Decyl Glucoside (sugar based surfactant or any other surfactant available)
4.25g Cucumber Glycerol (cucumber extract infused in glycerin)
1g Germall plus (broad spectrum preservative)
1g Allantoin Powder
0.5g Hyaluronic Acid powder
0.25g Rose Otto essential oil

Dissolve the Allantoin powder into the foral hydrosol. Stir in the decyl glucoside (or other
surfactant). Add the Hyaluronic powder and stir. (Don’t worry if it floats as it will dissolve
eventually!) Finally add the cucumber glycerol, essential oil and germall plus & mix well
to combine. Package in a lotion pump bottle. Shake the bottle to dissolve the
ingredients.

RECIPE 2:

Floral facial toner:

(suitable for all skin types)
2 oz organic rose hydrosol
1 oz organic witch hazel extract
1 Tbsp aloe vera gel or juice
1/2 tsp organic vegetable glycerine
4 drops organic chamomile tincture (chamomile leaves infused in alcohol)

Place all ingredients in a clean 4oz bottle and shake to blend. Shake a little before each
use as the contents will naturally separate. This toner should keep for at least 6 months
without refrigeration.

RECIPE 4:

AHA Toning Serum:

(Suitable for all skin types)
50g Witch Hazel Hydrosol
45g Rose Hydrosol
2.5g AHA (20% dilution)

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1g Germall plus (broad spectrum preservative)
0.75g Hyaluronic Acid
0.25g Xanthan Gum
0.25g Witch Hazel Glycerol
0.25g Rose Absolute

Add the Hyaluronic acid & the xanthum gum a little at a time to the container which
contains the floral waters. Stir well with each addition. Now add the AHA and stir. Finally
add the witch hazel glycerol, preservative and rose absolute and mix each addition well.
Package in either a pump bottle or a pipette bottle. Shake well to dissolve the
ingredients.

RECIPE 5:

Aloe vera Face Tonic:

(For sensitive skin types)

Phase A
Distilled water 80%
Coco betaine 2%
Aloe vera juice 7%
Hydrolysed protein of choice 3%
Gylcerin (or any other humectant) 6%
Provitamin B5 1%
Preservative of choice 0.5-1%
Citric acid (to adjust pH) Final pH must be 5

Mix in ingredients one after the other and bottle up

SCRUBS

Exfoliation is an essential part of a skincare routine as it is necessary to help the skin

shed off dead skin cells to give room for new skin cells to flourish. It also helps to retain
a youthful look and slows down the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. Dry and
matured skin types will do well with using manual scrubs that come in form of oil based
or water based scrubs while combination and oily skin types will do well with chemical
exfoliation. Below are some exfoliating recipes you can try.

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RECIPE 1:
Oil based emulsified sugar scrub
(For body use only)

Phase A
Emulsifying wax 10%
Cetyl alcohol 10%
Mango butter 20%
Oil of choice 56%
Vitamin E 1%

Phase B
Preservative 0.5-1%
Essential oil of choice (optional) 1%
Sugar to desired consistency.

Add phase A ingredients to a double boiler and heat up to melt. Allow to cool, forming a
film on top for easy whisking. Add in phase B.

RECIPE 2:
Exfoliating cleanser with jojoba beads
(For dry, matured and normal skin types)

Phase A
Distilled water 48%
Guar gum 1%
Glycerin (or any other humectant) 5%
Glyceryl cocoate 2%

Phase B
Sulfosuccinate 30% (or coco glucoside…if using coco glucoside adjust the pH to 6 or
lower using citric acid as coco glucoside is alkaline. If also using coco glucoside, switch
measurements with coco betaine to help increase lather)
Coco betaine 5%
Allantoin 0.5%
Jojoba beads 8-10%
Preservative 0.5-1%

Add phase A ingredients to a beaker and stir completely to dissolve the gum. Add in
phase B ingredients one after the other.

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RECIPE 3:

Water based emulsified scrub with walnut shell powder

(For dry, matured and normal skin types. Can be used on both face and body)

Phase A
Distilled water 66%
Propane 1,3, diol (or any other humectant) 3%

Phase B
Oil of choice 17%
Mango butter 5%
Emulsifying wax 4%
Cetyl alcohol 4%

Phase C
Extract of choice 3%
Preservative 0.5-1%
Walnut shell powder 10-15%

Add phase A into double boiler and heat up, do the same for phase B. Mix in phase B
into phase A till a creamy texture is achieved. Allow to cool and add in phase C

RECIPE 4:

Exfoliating Facial Cream

(For oily and combination skin types)

Phase A
Distilled water 68%
Glycerin (or any other humectant) 4%

Phase B
Emulsifying wax 6%
Cetyl alcohol 3%
Oil of choice 14% (must be non-comedogenic, have a high linoleic acid content and fast
absorbing)
Salicylic acid 2%

Phase C
Chamomile 3% (preferably glycerin infused)
Licorice extract 2% (preferably glycerin infused)
Preservative 0.5-1%
Follow directions stated above. Make sure to adjust pH to 4 to avoid irritations.

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 FACE MASKS

The importance of using face masks

Face masks (at-home or readymade) should be used 1-2 times a week to support and
enhance the results from your daily skin care routine. As wonderful as these simple at-
home masks are, they do not sit on your skin for 24 hours, and therefore should not be
thought of as a substitute to a daily skin care routine. An ideal daily skin care routine
comprises of cleansing, toning, application of a serum followed by a lotion. These 4
steps take less than 3 minutes, and should ideally be done am and pm.
In this next section we will be taking a look at face masks for the various skin types.
Note: Face masks should not exceed the given time suggested in this book as face
masks carry out their purpose within 5-15 minutes.

RECIPE 1:

(Suitable for dry skin to nourish and hydrate)

2 tablespoons mashed avocado
2 teaspoons almond butter or coconut butter
15 drops vegetable glycerin

Blend very well to form a smooth, creamy mixture. Massage into your face and neck
with upward circular strokes for 5 minutes. Leave on for another 8 minutes and then
rinse off thoroughly with water.

RECIPE 2:

(To brighten and soften dry skin)

2 tablespoons coconut butter
12 drops sweet almond oil
1 teaspoon aloe vera gel
0.5g preservative

Mix well to form a smooth, creamy mixture. Massage into your face and neck (or any
other part of your body) with upward circular strokes for 5 minutes. Leave on for another
8 minutes and then rinse off thoroughly with warm water.

RECIPE 3:

Skin Balancing Face mask:

(Suitable for combination skin)
2 tablespoons aloe vera gel
Enough rice flour to make a paste

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Mix well. Apply a generous layer all over your face and neck. Leave on for 8-10
minutes, then rinse off with warm water. Gently dry with a clean towel.

RECIPE 4:

Pore Refining Mask:

(To smoothen combination skin)
2 tablespoons gram flour
2 teaspoons aloe vera gel
Enough pureed apple to make a paste

Mix well. Apply a generous layer all over your face and neck. Leave on for 10-12
minutes, then rinse off with warm water. Gently dry with a clean towel.

RECIPE 5:

Massaging face mask for soft and bright skin:

(Suitable for normal skin)
3 tablespoons mashed banana
8 drops fresh lemon juice
12 drops fresh tomato juice

Blend very well to form a smooth, creamy mixture. Massage into your face and neck
with upward circular strokes for 5 minutes. Leave on for another 10 minutes and then
rinse off with water.

RECIPE 6:

Face mask to tighten and tone the skin:

(suitable for normal skin)
2 tablespoons fullers’ earth
1 teaspoon oat flour (grounded oatmeal)
Enough rosewater to make a paste

Mix well. Apply on your face and neck and let sit for 10-12 minutes. Wash off with warm
water. Pat dry.

RECIPE 7:

Face mask to balance skin and absorb excess oil:

(Suitable for acne-prone and oily skin)
1 tablespoon gram flour
1 teaspoon rosewater

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Enough tomato juice to make a thick paste

Mix well. Apply on your face and neck and let sit for 10-12 minutes. Wash off with warm
water. Pat dry.

RECIPE 8:

Face mask to calm irritated skin due to acne:

(Suitable for acne-prone and oily skin)
2 tablespoons tomato juice
1 teaspoon cucumber juice
10 drops aloe vera juice

Mix well. Dip a cotton ball into this mixture and dab on all over your face and any other
affected areas. Leave on for 8-10 minutes and wash off with lukewarm water. Pat dry.

FACE AND BODY CREAMS

The importance of moisturizing:

Face and body creams are moisturizers that transport important skin nutrients to the
skin, help create a barrier to prevent external toxins, as well as add in moisture to the
skin. This is the last phase of your skincare routine which helps to maintain a healthy
skin. There are different types of face and body creams made for specific purposes.
Some of these specific purpose creams will be given in this section.

RECIPE 1:

Body lotion with watermelon extract- 100g weight:

(Suitable for dry, mature/aging skin and sunburned skin)
Phase A:
Macadamia nut oil 10%
Emulsifying wax 5%
Avocado butter 2%
Stearic acid 2%
Vitamin E 0.2%

Phase B:
Distilled water 72%
Xanthum gum 1%
Glycerin 3%

Phase C:

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Watermelon extract (preferably glycerin infused) 3%
Preservative of choice 0.5-1%
Carrotseed essential oil 0.5%

Add all of phase A into a double boiler, now add all of phase B into another double
boiler, and sprinkle in the xanthum gum into the distilled water, stirring thoroughly. Heat
both phase A and B. When phase A has melted and phase B has reached the same
temperature of phase A, remove from heat. Mix in phase B into phase A, when it has
reached the cream-like consistency, mix in all of phase C. Stirr well till all ingredients
have dissolved.

RECIPE 2:

Skin brightening lotion (triple actives)

(Suitable for hyper-pigmented skin, dark spots, uneven skin tone, sunburns and overall
face and body brightening)
Phase A:
Distilled water 62%
Glycerin (or any other humectant of choice) 4%

Phase B:
Emulsifying wax 4%
Jojoba oil 4%
Tryglyceride 6%
Cetyl alcohol 3%
Vitamin E 0.5%

Phase C:
Mulberry root extract 5%
Licorice extract 5%
Kojic acid 3%
Bearberry extract (preferably tincture based) 2%
Preservative 0.5-1%
Essential oil 0.5%

Add all of phase A into a double boiler and heat. Add all of phase B into another double
boiler and heat to the same temperature. Remove both from heat, and mix in phase B
into phase A. When it has reached a cream like consistency, mix in all of phase C into
phase AB mixture. Allow to cool before pouring in a pump bottle or jar.

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RECIPE 3:

AHA Anti-wrinkle Treatment Cream

(For dry and matured skin types…when working with an AHA especially glycolic acid,
use a concentration of 4-10% to an effective pH of 4. Treatment cream must be used
once or twice a week, at night only. Do a skin-sensitivity patch test before using this
cream. If burning, redness and irritation occurs, stop use immediately.)

Phase A
Distilled water 53%
Glycerin (or any other humectant of choice) 4%

Phase B
Emulsifying wax 5%
Cetyl alcohol 3%
Tryglyceride 4%
Oil of choice 10%

Phase C
Glycolic acid (powdered crystals) 10%

Phase D
Triethanolamine (pH adjuster, baking soda is also used for this same purpose) add in
drops to attain a pH of 4.

Phase E
Preservative 0.5-1%

Combine phase A into a double boiler and heat up to melt. Do the same for phase B.
Mix in phase B to phase A, add in phase C and same for phase D as requested, then
add in phase E.

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RECIPE 4:
Oil free facial moisturizer:
(For oily and acne prone skin types)

Phase A
Distilled water 78%
Guar gum 0.5%
Vitamin B3 2%
Allantoin 0.5%
Humectant of choice 2%

Phase B
BTMS 50 3%
Cetyl alcohol 2%

Phase C
Panthenol 1%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 5%
Extract of choice 5% (use extracts suitable for oily and acne prone skin)
Preservative 0.5-1%

Add phase A to double boiler and heat up. Add phase B to another double boiler and
heat up to melt. Mix in phase B to phase A, and allow to cool. Add in phase C.

HERBAL HEALING SALVES

The importance of using herbal salves

Herbal salves are thickened ointments with herbal infusions or extracts as their active
ingredients. They are used in healing wounds, bruises, soothing the skin, rashes, acne,
alleviate aching muscles, joints and all other external skin conditions. They are
necessary to have in every home as a first aid treatment to skin cases mentioned
above. In this section we will take a look at some herbal salves that help in soothing the
skin, eliminating toxins and eczema.

RECIPE 1:

Soothing Herbal Salve:

(Suitable for aching muscles and joints)
½ cup of St. John wort’s oil

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½ cup ginger infused oil
1 ounce beeswax
1 tablespoon rosehip seed oil
1 tablespoon Vitamin E
20 drops each of lavender and ginger essential oil

Melt you beeswax along with your ginger infused oil, excluding the St. John Wort’s oil.
Once they have melted mix in the St. John Wort’s oil and all others excluding the
essential oils. (Essential oils evaporate in hot products) once the product is a bit cool
now add in your essential oils.
RECIPE 2:

Herbal Salve to fade off eczema and cool inflamed skin:

½ cup plantain infused oil
½ cup calendula infused oil
½ cup comfrey oil
1 tablespoon coconut oil
1 ounce beeswax
10 drops lavender essential oil
10 drops clove essential oil
5 drops eucalyptus

Melt the beeswax and coconut oil together. Once fully melted and still on low heat, add
in your infused oil and let simmer for 10 minutes, covered. After 10 minutes remove
from heat and pour into desired container to cool, once it is a bit cool add in your
essential oils.

RECIPE 3:

Herbal Salve to remove toxins from the skin:

1 ounce beeswax
½ cup plantain infused oil
½ cup calendula infused oil
½ tablespoon activated charcoal
1 tablespoon coconut oil
10 drops lemon essential oil
10 drops lavender essential oil
5 drops peppermint essential oil

Melt the beeswax and coconut oil together once melted, add in the infused oils while still
on low heat and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and mix in the activated
charcoal. Once cool add in your essential oils.

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 BODY BUTTERS

Body butters are thick and luxurious anyhydrous (or mostly anhydrous) products made
with the intention of moisturizing and hydrating the skin. If creating a water based body
butter, it is essential to have two humectants in your formulation and a skin soothing
extract along with more luxurious butters which serves as good barrier ingredients in
order to achieve the perfect combination function.
RECIPE 1:
Decadent Body Butter
(To relieve itchy skin)

Phase A
27.5% distilled water
11% aloe vera juice
10% chamomile hydrosol (any other hydrosol is suitable)
5% cucumber extract
2% glycerin
2% niacinamide
2% oats extract
0.5% allantoin

Phase B
10% shea butter
10% baobab oil
3% cetyl alcohol
2% tryglyceride
7.5% emulsifying wax

Phase C
2%panthenol
2% polyquarternium
0.5% liquid germall plus
1% essential oil of choice

Add phase A to a double boiler and heat up, do the same for phase B. Mix B into A till
you get a creamy consistency. Allow to cool, mix in phase C.

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RECIPE 2;
Basic body butter:
(Serves as a guide to incorporate your own key ingredients)

Phase A
59% distilled water
2% humectant of choice

Phase B
10% oil of choice
15% butter of choice (more than one butter can be used)
3% cetyl alcohol
7% emulsifying wax

Phase C
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% essential oil of choice

SERUMS

Water based serums are products made with only active ingredients to serve a purpose
for the skin in concentrated measurements. Some of the purposes water based serums
are made for are: hydration, brightening, acne and hyperpigmentation.

RECIPE 1:
Water based serum for even skin tone (50ml)

Distilled water 19%

Aloe vera juice 15%
Hyaluronic acid 1%
Allantoin 1%
Glycolic acid(100% crystal powder) 4%
Dandelion extract (preferably glycerin infused) 3%
Rosehip extract (preferably glycerin infused) 3%
Bearberry extract (preferably glycerin infused) 3%
Preservative (depending on choice of extract) 0.5-1%
(pH must be 4)

Sprinkle the hyaluronic acid powder into the water and allow to completely be absorbed
(might take a few hours.). once completely absorbed, add in the allantoin and warm up
to dissolve the allantoin, then add in other ingredients and bottle up. Best to be
packaged in a glass bottle.

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RECIPE 2:
Water based serum for hydration (50ml)

Distilled water 39%

Glycerin (or any humectant of choice) 2%
Lactic acid (100% crystals) 4%
Hydrolyzed silk protein 2%
Panthenol 1%
Allantoin 1%
Preservative (depending on choice) 0.5-1%

NOTE: Ingredients in both serum can be substituted to preference as long as it

performs same function of ingredient substituted.

SUPPLIER DETAILS

Here are some reputable suppliers you can get all your ingredients from.

1) Nerolie Nature Skincare & Haircare 08172750331

2) Jules therapy 08125332548
3) Beautiphic.com 08093608888, 08183608888
4) Kinky Apothecary 08176945728

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 EXERCISE NOTES

This section will help you in creating your own formulations and knowing what kind of
products to do to suit yours or your client’s needs. Once you are able to answer these
questions then you are ready to create high performance products.
1) Who is you customer and who are you creating the product for (gender, age
bracket)?
2) What skin type do they have?
3) What specific problems or concerns are you trying to solve for your customer
(wrinkles, dark spots, sunburns, acne, etc. Be specific as possible)?
4) What type of product will you create to solve your customer’s skin issue and what
is the purpose of your product (cream or serum, toner etc. to eliminate dry skin or
acne, etc.)?
5) How do they want their skin to feel or look like after using your product (feel
moisturized, feel silky, etc. to look a bit lighter, plumped up skin, etc.)?
6) How will you achieve creating this product (think of the ingredients you will use,
the process of creation, the measurement and amount needed suitable for your
customer’s needs)
7) What benefits do you want your product to deliver?
8) What oils will you use for your customer’s specific need? Give reason
9) What hydrosols and actives are suitable for your customer’s needs that will be
readily miscible in the product you want to create? Give reason.
10) What packaging and storage methods will you use and convey to your client in
order to achieve maximum benefit of product made (pump bottle, glass jar, etc.
To be stored in the fridge or in a cool dark place, etc.)?

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