P.A.

POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE::POLLACHI-02
DEPARTMENT OF AUTOMOBILE ENGINEERING
AUTOMOTIVE ELECTRICAL AND ELECTRONICS ENGINEERING
1021233440

NAME :

REG.NO :

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 P.A. POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE
POLLACHI – 642002
(An ISO 9001:2015 Certified Institution)
Accredited by NBA (MECH, EEE, ECE, CSE)

CERTIFICATE

NAME : ________________________________________________

REGISTER NO : ________________________________________________

BRANCH : ________________________________________________

Certified that this is bonafied record of workdone by above student in the

Automotive electrical and electronics engineering Code:1021233440 during the

year 20 -20

Signature of Lab incharge Signature of Head of Dept.

Submitted for the practical examination held on _____________

Internal Examiner External Examiner

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 INDEX

SIGN OF
S PAGE
DATE NAME OF THE EXPERIMENT MARKS THE
NO NO
STAFF

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 TESTING OF BATTERY (SPECIFIC GRAVITY TEST, OPEN VOLT TESTING, CELL
VOLTAGE TESTER.)
EX.NO: DATE:
AIM:
To identify the battering charging quality through the hydrometer test, open circuit
voltage test and high rate discharge testing methods.
Materials required
1. Given battery - 12V
2. Hydrometer
3. High rate discharge cell tester
4. Voltmeter for open circuit voltage test
5. Distilled water
6. Dilute H,So,
7. Battery Charger
8. Baking Soda
9. Battery cleaning brush
Tools required
1. Ring spanner set
2. Double end spanner set
3. Screw drivers
4. Cutting pliers
5. Terminal puller
Battery removing procedure
1. The positive and negative terminals of the battery are removed and the battery is
separated.
2. The battery is taken out after removing the clainp nuts.
3. The battery is thoroughly cleaned using baking soda, water and brush.
4. The battery is then wiped using a cotton cloth.
5. The battery is kept on a work bench and inspected. The vent caps are opened and if
required distilled water is added after checking the level of the electrolyte.
Battery Testing Procedure
a.Hydrometer test
1. This method of testing is also known as specific gravity testing method.
2. The hydrometer has a rubber tube at its tip. The rubber tube is cleaned thoroughly.
3. The rubber tube is made to dip into the electrolyte of the first cell.
4. The bulb part of the rubber tube is squeezed and left slowly.
5. As a result of the squeezing action, the electrolyte enters through the rubber tube into the
hydrometer and the electrolyte float will go the surface of the penetrated electrolyte.
6. The float level of the electrolyte will indicate the specific gravity of the electrolyte.

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 7. The float can shift levels based on the quality of the battery charge. The level of the
electrolyte shows the quality of the battery charge.
8. The specific gravity not only changes with respect to the percentage of acid in the
electrolyte but also due to temperature variations. Temperature is indirectly proportional
to specific gravity, i.e., if the temperature increases, the specific gravity decreases and
vice versa.High rate discharge test
b. High rate discharge tests
1. High rate discharge tester consists of two prongs (prods) with a heavy resistance between
and a voltmeter connected.
2. The insulated handle of the high rate discharge tester in hand and the positive and
negative terminal of the battery links/are pressed.
3. The duration of the pressing shall be for not more than 15 seconds.
4. This process is repeated for all the cells of the battery and each cell voltage is found out.
5. The readings between two independent cells should not vary more than
0.15 V.
6. The resistance between the prongs closes the circuit. As a result, when the load is given
to the normal starting motor, for the required level of voltage, the voltage drops. This is
shown by the voltmeter.
c. Open voltage test
1. Open voltage test is the kind of test where a voltmeter is employed to find out the cell
voltage.
2. The voltmeter ends are connected to the battery ends and the battery voltage of 12.40V is
found out. When the voltage drops below 12.4V, then the battery has to be charged.
3. It has to be ensured whether each cell voltage is 2.15V.
4. A battery that is completely charged shows 2.15V and a battery which is completely
discharged shows 2.11V.
5. It can be observed that a charge of 0.001 volts of open circuit voltage is equivalent to the
charge of 0.1 V in the specific gravity of the electrolyte.
6. Thus the specific gravity measurement can be made indirectly with a voltmeter.
Result
Thus the methodology of performing hydrometer test, open circuit voltage test and high rate
discharge test is understood and carried out successfully.

DAE AEES PRACTICUM

MARKS
DESCRIPTION
ALLOTTED OBTAINED
CONSTRUCTION/
OBSERVATION/ 5
SKETCH
TESTING/
CALCULATION/ 5
RESULT
TOTAL 10

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 TESTING OF ALTERNATOR PARTS SUCH AS STATOR, ROTOR AND RECTIFIER
FORRESISTANCE, CONTINUITY FOR INSULATION EFFECTIVENESS USING
MULTIFUNCTION TESTER.
EX.NO: DATE:
AIM:
To testing of alternator parts such as stator, rotor and rectified for resistance, continuity
for insulation effectiveness using multifunction tester.

Material required
1. Diodes
2. Regulator
3. Bridge rectifier
4. Brushes
5. Fan belt
6. Alternator bearing
7. Capacitor
8. Insulation tape
9. Grease
10. Kerosene & Petrol
Tools required
1. Basic mechanic's tools (Screw diver, cutting pliers, etc.)
2. 12V battery
3. Test lamp with wire connection.
4. Belt tension checking gauge.
5. Solder iron
6. Multimeter
Procedure
a) Removing alternator from engine
1. The ground terminal is disconnected from the battery.
2. The electrical connections of the alternator are marked and removed.
3. The making shall help us in easy re-connection.
4. The loosened mounting bolt, adjuster bolt and pivot bolt are removed and finally the
alternator is removed.
b) Dismantling procedure
1. The alternator is kept on the work bench and it is thoroughly cleaned.
2. The pulley nut located on the front side of the alternator is loosened and the pulley and
fan are removed.
3. The bolt connecting the front housing and the rear housing are removed and the
components viz. stator, rotor, brush assembly, diode, rectifier are removed part by part.
c) Cleaning and inspection procedure

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 1. All the components are thoroughly washed by petrol or kerosene.
2. The brushes are checked for their wear and tear and if required they are replaced.
3. The bearing in the rotor is rotated after thoroughly cleaning the components. If required,
the bearings are replaced.
4. The terminals of the stator are connected to a 12 V battery and 36 W
5. test lamp in series and checked for the glowing of the lamp.
6. The rotor is checked by connecting a slip ring to 110 V AC and 15 W
7. bulb. If the bulb fails to glow, then the rotor is perfectly in working condition.
8. The external surface of the slip ring and the diodes are completely checked. For checking
the diodes, the battery and the test lamp is used.
9. All the components are thoroughly inspected and if required, they are replaced.
10. Assamble the alternator in reverse dimension of dismantling.
d) Alternator installing procedure
1. The components of the alternator are thoroughly tightened and then the pulley part is
rotated by hand and the free rotation of the pulley is ensured.
2. The alternator is fitted coaxially with the engine and the mounting bolt, pivot bolt and
adjuster bolt are fitted together.
3. The electrical connections are carried out as per the markings done.
4. The engine is started and it is ensured that the pilot lamp gets switched off during the
acceleration. Also it is ensured that the ammeter needle always to the positive side
(Approx 50 A).
Result:
Thus the methodology of testing of alternator parts such as stator, rotor and rectified for
resistance, continuity for insulation effectiveness using multifunction tester used successfully.

DAE AEES PRACTICUM

MARKS
DESCRIPTION
ALLOTTED OBTAINED
CONSTRUCTION/
OBSERVATION/ 5
SKETCH
TESTING/
CALCULATION/ 5
RESULT
TOTAL 10

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 Testing of Starter Motor Parts such as Test Field Windings, Brush
Holders, Armature and Solenoid Switch for Continuity Using Multifunction Tester

EX.NO: DATE:
AIM:
To testing of starter motor parts such as test field windings, brush holders, armature and
solenoid switch for continuity using multifunction tester.
Materials required
1. Starter motor bearing - 2 Nos
2. Carbon brush
3. Grease
4. Pinion gear
5. Flywheel ring gear
6. Insulation tape
Tools required
1. Basic mechanic's tool kit
2. Screw driver flat
3. Screw driver Phillips
4. Bearing puller
5. Growler tester
6. Multimeter
7. Vernier caliper
Starter motor removing procedures
1. The terminals of the battery are disconnected.
2. The connections of the starter motor are disconnected.
3. Finally the starter motor is removed out from the clutch housing.
Dismantling
1. The screws connecting the solenoid and bracket assembly are remove
2. The solenoid plunger and the solenoid switch is dismantled from the over
3. running clutch shift lever.
4. The long bolts connecting the starter motor and the front bracket are removed and
the bracket assembly is separated.
5. The lock at the drive pinion is opened and the drive pinion and the over running
clutch are removed.
6. The screws at the back cover of the carbon brush carrier are removed.
7. Now the carrier is also separated.
8. The field coil assembly and the carbon brush carrier can be seen holding together
inside the housing frame.
9. All the components are removed separately and thoroughly cleaned.

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 Inspection & Assembling
1. The terminal connections of the solsnoid switch are thorgüghly ch there ars rusts,
emery paper is used for cleaning those surfaces
2. The sclenoid plunger is pushed inwards and it is checked whether back to its
orginal position,
3. The solenoid is checked for its winding continuity.
4. Both the armature bearings are rotated and checked for their movement
5. Growler tester, ohm meter and multimeter are used for checking the windings of
the armature shaft.
6. The dial gauge is employed for checking the run-out of the commutator.
7. The field coil assembly is thoroughly checked.
8. The carbon brush and the brush holder is checked and if required new brush is
installed.
9. The working of the over running clutch is checked and confirmed.
10. The running components are greased and they are assembled in the order they are
dismantled.
11. The performance test of the starter motor is carried out by completely assembling
the starter motor and connecting a battery to its terminals separately.
12. Check flywheel ring gear, if necessary change new one.
13. The battery connections are completed. The ignition key is turned on and it is
ensured that the starter motor rotates the flywheel ring gear.
Result
Thus the methodology of testing of starter motor parts such as test field windings, brush
holders, armature and solenoid switch for continuity using multifunction tester and carried out
successfully.

DAE AEES PRACTICUM

MARKS
DESCRIPTION
ALLOTTED OBTAINED
CONSTRUCTION/
OBSERVATION/ 5
SKETCH
TESTING/
CALCULATION/ 5
RESULT
TOTAL 10

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 CONSTRUCT AND TEST THE STARTING AND CHARGING CIRCUIT.

EX.NO: DATE:
AIM:
Construct and test the starting and charging circuit
TOOLS REQUIRED:
1. Given starter motor,
2. Screw driver,
3. Tool kit,
4. Wrenches small wire,
5. Growler,
6. Multi meter,
7. Vernier caliper.
TESTING OF STARTING CIRCUIT:

1. If the starter does not turn the engine although the car battery is in good condition, the fault may be
a simple mechanical one or it may be an electrical one in the starter-motor circuit .
2. The starter system is simple, and the checks on it are straightforward. Electrical checks are made
with a circuit tester or test lamp or with a voltmeter .
3. A mechanical check to see if the starter pinion gear is simply jammed in mesh with the
engine flywheel can usually be made with a single spanner.
4. The live terminal on the battery is connected by a heavy lead to a terminal on
the solenoid switch which is operated when the ignition switch is turned. The other terminal on the
solenoid is connected to a terminal on the starter motor .
5. The second terminal on the motor is earthed via a wire strap through the engine or gearbox and the
car bodywork back to the earth terminal on the battery.
6. Modern cars have a pre-engaged starter, which has the solenoid mounted on the casing. Many
older cars have an inertia starter, which has a separate solenoid mounted elsewhere in the engine
compartment.
7. Switch on the headlights and try the starter. If the headlights dim, the starter pinion is probably
jammed in mesh with the flywheel.
8. See if there is a square stub on the end of the starter-motor spindle . If so, turn it with a spanner to
free the pinion.
9. Do not work the starter switch until the pinion has been freed.
10. If there is no square stub and the car has manual transmission , with the ignition switched off put
the gear lever into second gear, release the handbrake and rock the car forward and back until the
pinion frees itself.
11. If the car has automatic transmission , you have to take the starter motor off (See Checking and
replacing the starter motor ).
12. If the headlights do not dim, look for an electrical fault.

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 Checking for electrical faults
1. To check if current is reaching the solenoid, connect a test lamp between its feed terminal and
earth.
2. First check the battery and its terminals (See Checking the batteries )and the other end of its earth
strap.
3. Use the circuit tester or test lamp to find if electric current is reaching the solenoid.
4. Connect one lead to the feed terminal (the battery side of the solenoid) and earth the other to bare
metal on the bodywork.
5. The lamp should light. If it does, the fault is in the solenoid or in the starter itself.
6. If the lamp lights when you earth it to the body, but not when you earth it to the engine, the engine
earth strap is faulty. It may have a loose bolt with dirt underneath, causing bad contact.
7. If the lamp does not light, the connections between the battery and solenoid are faulty.

TESTING OF CHARGING CIRCUIT:

1. Plug your battery charger into a wall outlet

2. If your battery charger has a separate ON /OFF Switch, go ahead an to the 'ON' position.
3. Attach the test probes of you multimeter to their corresponding ports. or negative to 'com' port.
Redto "V port (OR) Positive probe
4. Set the multimeter to 'DC' twist the dial undi the pointer enters the ' DC stopping on the next
highest setting to the voitage of the charger measuring.
5. For example to test a standard Ad baftery which is about 1.5 volts you use the "2° DCV setting.
6. Touch the black test probe to the negative contact point on the charg
7. Hold the red probe against the charger's positive contact point.
8. Check the number displayed on the multimeter's display screen. This n indicates how many volts
of DC power the charger is putting out. The is 2 or 3 points high from the base value of the battery.

RESULT:

Thus the testing of starting and charging circuit was conducted successfully.

DAE AEES PRACTICUM

MARKS
DESCRIPTION
ALLOTTED OBTAINED
CONSTRUCTION/
OBSERVATION/ 5
SKETCH
TESTING/
CALCULATION/ 5
RESULT
TOTAL 10

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 Construction and Testing of Head Lights, Parking Lights and Direction
Indicators Circuit and adjust the head light position.
EX.NO: DATE:

AIM:
To construct and testing the given head lights, parking lights and direction indicators
circuit used in automobile.
Tools required
1. Reflector
2. Lighting unit
3. Housing
4. Covering frame
5. Cover plate
6. Buld holder
7. Multimeter
8. Common tool kit
Procedure
Removing a headlight
1. Older vehicle models use a sealed-beam head lamp, usually secured by a bezel and a
retaining ring using a few screws. Look around the perimeter of the headlamp and remove the
screws that hold the lamp in place. If necessary, access the electrical connector from the rear of
the assembly.
Removing a halogen bulb
1. Most modern vehicles use composite headlights that is a halogen bulb inside the
headlamp housing. You access the bulb through the rear of the light assembly.
2. Pop the hood open.
3. Locate the rear of the headlight lamp you want to replace.
4. To unplug the bulb's electrical connector.
5. Push and twist the base of the connector about a quarter of a turn
counterclockwise.
6. Then, carefully pull the socket out of the housing, or unscrew the ring that holds
the connector in place about a quarter of a turn counterclockwise.
7. Then, remoye the ring and pull the socket out of the housing.
8. If you are not sure the filament is broken, you can check for continuity.
9. Set your digital voltmeter (DMM) to the lowest setting on the resistance scale.
10. Turn on your DMM and touch the meter probes on each side of the bulb contacts.
11. If there's continuity. your meter will keep or show zero resistance, otherwise, the
display will show infinite resistance, overload or no sound, depending on your
particular meter configuration.

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 Although not too common, flickering headlights can also become a problem. They may
be caused by A bad headlamp switch
 Unusual resistance in the circuit
 A loose or corroded connection
 Poor circuit grounding
 A bad multifunction switch
First, check whether both headlamps are flickering, or only one. If only one of the lamps
is flickering, concentrate on that part of the circuit.
1. Check the power and ground wires connect to the headlamp.
2. Check the electrical connector.
3. Inspect the bulb socket for corrosion or a loose wire on the connector.
If both headlamps are flickering, check the part of the circuit that controls both lamps.
1. Flip the switch to low - and high beam and see if the lights flicks in both modes.
2. Check the switch,
3. Check for loose wires at the switch.
4. Check the multifunction switch.
5. Check the power side of the circuit for a loose wire or connector.
Several faults may cause headlights to be dim
 Corrosion or bad connections in the power circuit.
 Headlamps or bulbs are worn out.
 Damaged wires in the circuit.
 Low charging system output.
Make sure the headlight lenses are not foggy. Light bulbs, also many also be worn
through years of service. You many notice that your headlights dim in a particular engine
operating condition.
If the headlights are dim with the engine off or while idling.
1. Verify that battery terminals are clean and tight.
2. Make sure your battery is charged or in good condition. You many need to
test the battery.
3. Check charging system output and drive belt for proper operation.
4. Check the light bulbs for proper installation or wear.
If the headlights are dim when the engine speed is above idle
1. Check the charging system output and the drive belt for prop
2. Check for voltage drop in the headlamp circuit.
3. Check the light bulbs.
The following points should be noted when trouble shootin
 Check the light sources and replace if necessary.
 Check the bulb holder for corrosion and contact interruptic
 Check the voltage supply including fuses.
 Check the plug-type connection for corrosion and mecha

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 In vehicles with PM, check the signals with an oscilloscope
Tester

Result:
Thus, the adjusting the beam of the head lights, parking lights and direction indicators
circuit is done and executed on the given vehicle.

DAE AEES PRACTICUM

MARKS
DESCRIPTION
ALLOTTED OBTAINED
CONSTRUCTION/
OBSERVATION/ 5
SKETCH
TESTING/
CALCULATION/ 5
RESULT
TOTAL 10

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 CONSTRUCTION AND TESTING OF HORN AND WIPER CIRCUIT.

EX.NO: DATE:
AIM:
To Construction and Testing of Horn and wiper circuit.
Materials required
1. Electric horn breaker point kit
2. Wire - As per requirement
3. Horn packing
4. Fuse
5. Wiper motor repair kit
6. Wiper blade
7. Grease
8. 'Emery paper
9. Horn button
10. Insulation tape
Tools required
1. Basic mechanic's tool kit
2. Screw driver flat
3. Screw driver Phillips
4. Wire sleeve remover
5. Multi-meter
Electric horn testing and tune up procedure
1. The electrical connections of the electric horn are disconnected.
2. The bolts and nuts connecting the horn to the vehicle are dismantled and
removed.
3. The horn is thoroughly cleaned with a cotton cloth.
4. The screws that connect the round clamps with the diaphragm of the horn are
removed.
5. Diaphragm, tone disc, shim and packing are removed separately anc cleaned.
6. The connections to the terminal are removed. The contact breaker point
connected with the horn is removed.
7. All the components are thoroughly cleaned and if required the contact breaker
points are replaced.
8. The horn button is inspected and if required, it is replaced.
9. The components of the horn are assembled in the order opposite to their
dismantling procedure.
10. All the screws of the horn are tightened. The horn can also be connected to a
battery and checked for its functioning.
11. The horn is checked for its sound after connecting to the terminals.

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 12. If the horn is not sounding properly, the voltage quantity is checked. For a 12
V the permissible voltage shall be 11 to 14 V. for a 24 V horn, the permissible
voltage shall be 22 to 28 V.
13. The gap of the contact point is adjusted by adjusting the screws and the sound
of the horn can be tuned. Finally the lock nut is tightened.
Dismantling procedure
1. The fixing bolt and nuts of the rubber blade assembly of the wind screen glass
are dismantled.
2. The electrical connections for the wiper motor are disconnected.
3. The mounting bolts that connect the wiper motor assembly with the car body
are removed from the wiper motor assembly.
4. The screws connecting the wiper motor yoke casing and drive mechanism are
removed and the components are separated.
5. The screws of the outer cover of the gearbox mounting are separated.
6. The armature shaft is dismantled in such a way that there is no damage for the
carbon brushes.
7. The mounting screws of the carbon brushes are removed.
8. The permanent magnets inside the yoke casing are carefully taken out.
9. All the components are thoroughly cleaned and if any defects are found, the
components are replaced.
10. The armature is tested by the growler tester.
Assembling procedure
1. After cleaning the inner surface of the yoke housing completely, permanent magnets
are placed against each other.
2. The worm wheels fitted on the gearbox mounting casing. Re quantity of grease is
applied on the worm wheel.
3. The holder is fitted by tightening the mounting screws of the c brush holder.
4. The carbon brushes and the worm gear wheel are aligned carefu the armature
commutator area.
5. The yoke casing is placed in the center of the armature and the moun screws are
tightened. Now the armature shall be in a position to rot between the two magnets.
This position of the armature has to ensured.
6. The quality of the motor is ensured by connecting the terminals of the motor to the
electricity supply.
7. With the help of the mounting bolts, the wiper motor assembly-is fitted in the vehicle
and is placed on the wind screen glass.
8. Required amount of water is poured on the wind screen glass and the working
condition of the glass is ensured.
Testing of wiper motor

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 Unless the origin of the fault is apparent proceed as follows to determini the cause of
failure.
1. Measure supply voltage. Switch on the motor and measure the voltage between
the motor supply terminal '2' and a good earthing point, with a volt meter. If the
reading is low, check the battery, cable connections and the panel switch.
2. If the fault is outside the motor, locate and rectify by checking the fuse.
3. Measure light running current. If the current at operating voltage is obtained at
terminal '2' disconnect the cable rack and measure the light running current with
an ammeter connected in the supply line (value for normal unit is 2.7 to 3.4
Amps.)
4. The wiping speed of the unit is 45-50 cycles per minute. Check up whether the
unit makes these' strokes.

RESULT
Thus the methodology of dismantling the electric Horn and wiper motor,wasTested them
and fitting them back into the vehicle is understood and carried out successfully.

DAE AEES PRACTICUM

MARKS
DESCRIPTION
ALLOTTED OBTAINED
CONSTRUCTION/
OBSERVATION/ 5
SKETCH
TESTING/
CALCULATION/ 5
RESULT
TOTAL 10

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 IDENTIFY AND TEST THE MUSIC SYSTEM AND POWER WINDOW

EX.NO: DATE:
AIM:
To identify and test the music system and power window
MATERIAL REQUIRED
1. CDs or DVDs
2. USB Drive
3. Smartphone or Tablet
4. Auxiliary Cable
5. Bluetooth Device
TOOLS REQUIRED
1. Multimeter
2. Test Light:
3. Window Switch Panel Removal Tool
PROCEDURE FOR TESTING MUSIC SYSTEM
Identifying the Music System Components

1. Head Unit: Identify where the head unit (the main control for the car's audio system) is
located. It's usually on the dashboard.
2. Speakers: Locate where the speakers are positioned in the car (front, rear, doors, etc.).
3. Amplifier (if applicable): Some cars have an external amplifier to boost audio signals.
Identify its location if your car has one.

Testing the Music System

1. Power On: Start your car's engine or turn the ignition to the accessory position to power
on the music system.
2. Check Connections: Ensure all connections to the head unit and speakers are secure.
Loose connections can lead to poor audio quality or no sound at all.
3. Radio Functionality:
o Tuning: Test the radio by tuning into different stations.
o Sound Quality: Pay attention to the clarity and volume of the sound.
4. CD/DVD Player (if applicable):
o Insert a CD or DVD and check if it plays correctly without skipping.
o Listen for any distortions in audio quality.
5. Bluetooth Connectivity (if applicable):
o Pair your smartphone or another Bluetooth device with the car's audio system.
o Play music through Bluetooth to check connectivity and sound quality.
6. USB/Auxiliary Input (if applicable):
o Connect a USB drive or auxiliary cable to test playback.
o Ensure the system recognizes the input and plays audio correctly.
7. Equalizer and Sound Settings:
o Adjust the bass, treble, balance, and fade settings to your preference.

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 o Listen for how these adjustments affect the audio quality.
8. Volume Control:
o Test the volume knob or buttons to ensure they adjust the sound level smoothly.
o Check if the system can handle both low and high volumes without distortion.
9. Speaker Functionality:
o Listen to audio from each speaker individually (if possible) to ensure all are
working.
o Check for any rattling or buzzing noises which may indicate speaker damage.
10. Amplifier (if applicable):
o If your car has an external amplifier, listen for any improvements in sound quality
when it's turned on versus when it's off.
11. Environmental Factors:
o Test the audio system in different driving conditions (idle, city traffic, highway)
to gauge how external noise affects your listening experience.
12. User Manual:
o Refer to the car's audio system manual for specific instructions on features and
troubleshooting tips.

Additional Considerations

 Warranty and Service: If you encounter any issues, refer to your car's warranty for
coverage details or seek professional assistance from a certified mechanic or audio
technician.
 Personal Preferences: Ultimately, the quality and features of a car's music system can
vary widely. Consider your personal preferences in sound quality, connectivity options,
and ease of use when evaluating the system.

By following these steps, you can thoroughly test and evaluate the music system in your car to
ensure it meets your expectations for quality and functionality.

PROCEDURE FOR TESTING THE POWER WINDOW:

Preparation:

1. Ignition: Ensure the car's ignition is in the "ON" position, or start the engine if necessary.
This provides power to the electrical systems including the windows.
2. Safety: Make sure the parking brake is engaged to prevent accidental movement of the
vehicle.

Testing Procedure:

1. Driver's Control: Test each window from the driver's control panel first.
o Press and hold the switch for each window (up and down).
o Observe if the window responds promptly and moves smoothly without unusual
noises.

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 2. Individual Controls: Test each window from its respective control switch (if available).
o Move to each door and operate the window switch (up and down).
o Ensure each window operates correctly from its own switch without hesitation or
malfunction.
3. Full Range Test: Move each window through its full range of motion.
o Lower each window completely and raise it fully back up.
o Check for smooth operation throughout the entire range without pauses or jerking
movements.
4. Safety Features: Test any auto-reverse or obstruction detection features (if equipped).
o Place a hand or a soft object (like a towel) in the window’s path while closing.
o The window should automatically stop and reverse direction when it detects
resistance.
5. Child Lock: Verify the functionality of the child lock feature (if applicable).
o Engage the child lock from the driver’s control panel.
o Attempt to operate the window from the respective door switch to confirm it does
not open.
6. Visual Inspection: While testing, visually inspect:
o Window alignment within the frame.
o Condition of the weatherstripping and window seals.
o Any signs of abnormal wear or damage.
7. Sound Check: Listen for any unusual noises such as grinding or clicking which might
indicate mechanical issues.

RESULT:
Thus the given music system and power window system was identified and tested
sucessfully as per the above procedure

DAE AEES PRACTICUM

MARKS
DESCRIPTION
ALLOTTED OBTAINED
CONSTRUCTION/
OBSERVATION/ 5
SKETCH
TESTING/
CALCULATION/ 5
RESULT
TOTAL 10

39
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 CONSTRUCTION AND TESTING OF FUEL AND TEMPERATURE GAUGES
CIRCUIT.
EX.NO: DATE:
AIM:
To Construct and Test the Fuel and Temperature Gauges Circuit..
Tools required
1. Basic mechanic tools
2. Multimeter
3. Temperature
4. Gauge repairing kit
5. Fuel tank repair kit
Fuel gauge - Construction and operation
The fuel gauge indicates the level of fuel in the tank. It is electrically operated. The fuel level is
indicated on the gauge through sensing unit (generally known as float unit) mounted on the fuel tank and
is calibrated in terms of fuel level in tank
Removal of fuel gauge
 Remove fuel tank assembly.
 Remove electrical connections.
 Remove nuts securing float unit from the fuel tank.
 Remove seal from the float unit.
Procedure : Fuel gauge testing
1. Jack the vehicle and remove the left rear wheel.
2. Switch the ignition off.
3. Disconnect the fuel gauge sender unit.
4. Connect the yellow / white wire to the black wire with a jumper lead.
5. Switch the ignition and watch the fuel gauge.
6. Switch the ignition off as soon as the needle stops moving, it shoul have moved to the fuel mark.
Note: Do not leave the ignition switched on for longer than seconds, or damage to the fuel gauge will
result.
7. If the fuel gauge moved to the full mark, it is serviceable and it can b assumed that if there is a
fault, then it is in the sender unit.
8. If the fuel gauge did not move to the fuel mark, then check the fus wiring and connectors.
9. Renewal of the fuel gauge will be found.
10. Reconnect the electrical connection and refit the road wheel befo removing the vehicle from jacks.
Temperature gauge - Construction and operation
When the engine attains normal operating temperature, the gauge needle will rise and rest at the
mid-point of the temperature scale. If the engine coolant temperature increases too high, the pointer will
rise to the red segment of the scaje to warn of an engine cooling fault. At this position the engine coolant
temperature is too high and continued operation could result in engine damage, the vehicle should be
stopped as soon as possible.

41
Procedure: Testing temperature gauge

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 1. The temperature gauge sender with is situated on the inlet manifold, and transmits water
temperature to the temperature gauge.
2. To test the temperature gauge unit, disconnect the yellow / green wire and connect it to a good
earth.
3. Switch on the ignition.
4. Temperature gauge should red 'H'.
5. If it does not, check the fuse, wiring and connections and if these prove to be all right, renew the
sender unit.
6. Use a new sealing washer when refitting the temperature unit.
7. If the temperature gauge needle is flickering, replace the gauge..
8. If the temperature gauge is not working, fix the connector properly.
Further if the fault persists, replace temperature transducer.
Result
Thus, the given fuel gauge and temperature gauge are dismantled, tested and reassembled

DAE AEES PRACTICUM

MARKS
DESCRIPTION
ALLOTTED OBTAINED
CONSTRUCTION/
OBSERVATION/ 5
SKETCH
TESTING/
CALCULATION/ 5
RESULT
TOTAL 10

43
TEST THE ELECTRONIC IGNITION AND ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION
SYSTEM.

44
EX.NO: DATE:
AIM
To Test the electronic ignition and electronic Fuel injection system.
Materials required
1. The given petrol engine
2. Distributor cap
3. Spark plug cable
4. Distributor rotor
5. Condenser
6. New contact breaker set
7. Ignition coil
8. Fuse
9. Emery paper and insulation tape
10. Wires
Tools required
1. Ring spanner set
2. Double end spanner set
3. Screw drivers (Flat & Phillips)
4. Multimeter
5. Feeler gauge
6. Vernier caliper
7. Contact Breaker point spanner
8. Tubular type spark plug spanner
9. Wire sleeve remover
Electronic ignition system trouble shooting procedure
a. Ignition coil testing
1. Turn the ignition on (engine off) and using either a voltmeter or a test light, test for battery
voltage available at the positive terminal of the ignition coil.
2. If the voltage is not available, check for an open circuit at the ignition switch or wiring.
3. Connect the voltmeter or test light to the negative side of the coil and crank and engine.
4. The voltmeter should fluctuate or the test light should blink, indicating that the primary coil
current is being turned ON and OFF.
5. If there is no pulsing of the negative side of the coil then the problem is a defective pickup,
electronic control module or wiring.
b. Pickup coil testing
1. The pickup coil located under the distributor cap on many electronic ignition engines, can
cause a no spark condition if defective.
2. The pickup coil can also be tested for proper voltage output.
3. During cranking most pickup coils should produce a minimum of 0.25 volt A. C.
4. This can be tested with the distribution out of the vehicle by rotating the distributor drive
gear by hand.

45
c. Testing hall effect sensor and ECU
1. Using a digital voltmeter, check for the presence of charging voltage (pulsed on and off
DC) when the engine is being cranked.

46
 2. The best test is to use an oscilloscope and observe the wave form.
3. Test the electronic control unit as per the maker's instruction.
d. Spark plug testing
1. The spark plug is removed from the engine using a tubular spanner.
2. The carbon and the soot particles on the spark plug are thoroughly cleaned by scraper. If
required low pressure air can also be employed for cleaning.
3. Spark plug cleaning machine can also be employed.(Note: Spark plug cleaning machine cleans
as per the sand blasting procedure.)
4. After the spark plug is thoroughly cleaned, the central electrode, ground electrode and the
insulator are inspected. If any defects are found; the spark plug has to be replaced accordingly.
5. If the spark plug is functioning well, then the feeler gauge is used to set the gap at the range of
0.7 to 0.8 mm. Then the spark plug is set on the spark plug checking machine and the generation of the
spark is ensured.
6. The cables are connected as per the firing order and checked for sparks, keeping the spark plug
outside.
7. A new copper sealing gasket is sealed o the bottom portion of the spark plug and the spark plug
is fitted in the engine.

Result
Thus, the methodology of various components of electronics fuel ignition system and servicing
spark plugs is understood and carried out successfully

DAE AEES PRACTICUM

MARKS
DESCRIPTION
ALLOTTED OBTAINED
CONSTRUCTION/
OBSERVATION/ 5
SKETCH
TESTING/
CALCULATION/ 5
RESULT
TOTAL 10

47
 TESTING OF VARIOUS SENSORS USING A MULTIFUNCTION TESTER.
(PRESSURE SENSOR, KNOCK SENSOR, OXYGEN SENSOR, ENGINE
CRANKSHAFT ANGULAR POSITION SENSOR, AND VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR.)

48
 EX NO: DATE:
AIM:
To Test the various Sensors using a Multifunction Tester.

Tools required
1. Common tools
2. Multimeter
3. Ohmmeter
4. Basic mechanic tool kit
5. Wires, fuses
Procedure
Multimeter test : Continuity sensor
1. Disconnect the wires for the sensors at its power source (Point A in the diagram).
2. Plug the black probe into the COM (common) port on your multimeter.
3. Plug the red probe into the VS port.
4. Set your multimeter to continuity the symbol look a bit like this : .
5. Connect the red probe to the + wine going to the sensor, and connect the black probe to the
ground wire going to the sensor.
Note
Communication wiring is often move complicated than a + wire and a - wire and will vary
according to the output of your sensors and control system. So consult with your sensors user manual for
more information.
If the multimeter registers a reading, your circuit wiring is in fact. If the multimeter does not register a
reading then there is something wrong with the wiring. Repeat these steps along the various sections of
the circuit between the source and sensor to isolate the problem.
This process can also be performed with your sensor's communication wiring.
Voltage sensor test
1. Reconnect the sensor's power source.
2. Disconnect the power wires at the sensor (Point C in the diagram) or connection point closest
to the.senor (Point B, if the cable to your sensor cannot be disconnected at the sensor).
3. Maintain the same probe multimeter connections.
4. Connect the red probe to the incoming + wire, pin or terminal and the black probe to the
ground wire / pin / terminal.
5. Select the DC value on the multimeter that is closest to yet bigger than the source voltage.
6. Turn on the power source.
7. Verify that the voltage at the sensor is within the range suggested in your user manual. If so
we've eliminated source voltage as the problem.
8. If not, the voltage source is at least in problem. It not the problem and either way turn OFF
the power source.

49
Resistance sensor test
1. Reconnect the power wires at the sensor.
2. Disconnect the communication wires for the sensor at the source
3. (Point A).

50
 4. Maintain the same probe multimeter connections.
5. As before, connect the red probe to the + wire going to the sensor and connect the black
probe to the ground wire going to the sensor.
6. Many sensors that we communication protocols require a minimum of 15052 to 18052, so
choose the ohm value on the multimeter that is closest to, yet bigger than, 2002. If the circuit
impedance is less than that recommended by your user manual, than add an appropriate
amount of resistance to the circuit.
7. If the multimeter doesn't register the impedance, select the next highest denomination of
ohms. If the circuits impedance is too high (and not infinite). Something will need to be
removed from the circuit (switch to a smaller wire size, too many intermediate junctions, etc).
Result
Thus, the testing of various sensors using multifunction tester was completed successfully.

DAE AEES PRACTICUM

MARKS
DESCRIPTION
ALLOTTED OBTAINED
CONSTRUCTION/
OBSERVATION/ 5
SKETCH
TESTING/
CALCULATION/ 5
RESULT
TOTAL 10

51