Copyright 2014 Lisa Chemery. All rights reserved.

Summer Into Fall

By Lisa Chemery

Shown in De Rerum Natura Gilliatt (colorway Poivre et Sel) in size 9 months.

SIZES:
3mo, 6mo, 9mo, 12mo, 18mo // 2yo, 3yo, 4yo, 5yo, 6yo
To fit chest: 16, 17, 17.5, 18, 19 // 20, 22, 23, 24, 25 inches or 40.5, 43, 44.5, 46, 48 // 51, 56, 58, 61, 63.5 cm.
Finished garment chest: 17.75, 18.75, 19.5, 20.5, 21.5 // 22.25, 24, 25, 26, 27.5 inches or 45, 47.5, 49.5, 52 54 // 56.5, 61,
63, 65.5, 70 cm.
In general it’s best to go by the child’s actual chest measurements when selecting the appropriate size. You can also choose a size according to how much
ease you’d like the garment to have. For complete garment measurements, please refer to schematic on page 4.

YARN REQUIREMENTS:
1, 1, 1, 1, 2 // 2, 2, 2, 2, 3 skeins of De Rerum Natura Gilliatt [100% merino; 273 yards/250 m per 100g/3.5oz skein] or
approximately 200, 225, 250, 275, 300 // 375, 400, 475, 525, 550 yds or 183, 206, 229, 251, 274 // 343, 366, 434, 480,
503 meters of aran weight yarn.
Please note: De Rerum Natura Gilliatt isn’t a machine-washable yarn. Superwash substitutes include: Malabrigo Rios, Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran etc.
To make a warmer-weather garment, I recommend a Cotton/Acrylic blend such as Lion Brand Cotton-Ease, Berroco Weekend, Rowan’s All Seasons Cotton
etc.

NEEDLES/NOTIONS: - 2 stitch markers

US 7 or 4.5mm 16-inch or 40cm circular needle - 2 stitch holders or waste yarn
or size needed to match stockinette gauge. - tapestry needle
Note: for the two largest sizes, a 24-inch or 60cm needle may be more - four 5/8 inch or 1.5cm diameter buttons
comfortable.

GAUGE:
18 sts x 32 rows = 4 inches or 10cm in stockinette stitch
Copyright 2014 Lisa Chemery. All rights reserved. 2
ABBREVIATIONS:
BOR: beginning of round p : purl slm : slip marker
k : knit p2tog: purl two stitches together ssk: sl1k, sl1p, knit both slipped sts
k2tog: knit two stitches together p2togtbl: purl two stitches together through the back loops.
kfb: knit into the front and back of together through the back loop st(s): stitch(es)
the next stitch pm : place marker wyib: with yarn held at back of
m : marker RS: right side work
m1L: using left needle tip, lift strand sl1k: slip 1 stitch as if to knit wyif: with yarn held at front of
that is between the needles from sl1p: slip 1 stitch as if to purl work.
front to back, and knit it through the sl3p: slip 3 stitches separately as if WS: wrong side
back. to purl yo: yarn over

PATTERN NOTES:
This dress is worked seamlessly in the round, from the bottom-up, then the front and back are worked flat separately.
Stitches are picked up at each side to work the garter side tabs, and along the straps to create the ruffles. If desired, side
tabs and ruffles can be worked in a contrasting color. The length of the dress is designed to be about mid-thigh, but the
length can easily be shortened or lengthened by removing or adding rounds between the body decreases.
Skills required: casting on, knitting, purling, increasing, decreasing, knitting in the round, I-cord edging (explained in pattern),
yarn over, picking up stitches, binding off.

DIRECTIONS:

Knit body:

Cast on 100, 104, 108, 116, 124 // 132, 144, 156, 160, 172 sts.
Joining in the round and placing a BOR m, knit 1 round (be careful not to twist the sts).
Next round: Slm, purl to end of round.
Next round (Round 1): Slm, knit to end of round.
Round 2: Slm, purl to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 two more times (4 garter ridges).
Next round: Slm, k50, 52, 54, 58, 62 // 66, 72, 78, 80, 86, pm, knit to end of round.
Knit even in stockinette in the round for 1” or 2.5cm, then work the following Decrease Round:

Decrease Round: Sl BOR m, *k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before m, k2tog, k1**, slm, repeat from * to ** once more. 4 sts
decreased: 96, 100, 104, 112, 120 // 128, 140, 152, 156, 168 sts.

Work 1” or 2,5cm even in stockinette, then work the Decrease round once more. Continue working the Decrease Round
every 1” or 2.5cm, until you have worked 5, 5, 5, 6, 7 // 8, 9, 11, 11, 12 Decrease Rounds in total (you will end this section
with a Decrease Round): 80, 84, 88, 92, 96 // 100, 108, 112, 116, 124 sts.
The length from hem should be approximately 5.75, 5.75, 5.75, 6.75, 7.75 // 8.75, 9.75, 11.75, 11.75, 12.75 inches or 14.5,
14.5, 14.5, 17, 19.5 // 22, 25, 30, 30, 32.5 cm.

Knit Back and Front:

Sl BOR m, knit to 3 sts before m, sl3p wyib, remove m and place next 40, 42, 44, 46, 48 // 50, 54, 56, 58, 62 sts on holder
(these will become the Front), removing BOR m. Turn: WS is facing you. You will now work back and forth on the Back sts.

Back:
WS: Pulling working yarn, p3 for icord edging, then purl until 3 sts remain, sl3p wyif.
RS: Pulling working yarn, k3 for icord edging, then knit until 3 sts remain, sl3p wyib.
Repeat the last 2 rows until you have worked 1.5" or 4cm from separation of back and front, ending with a RS row.
On next WS row: Purl to end.
RS: Knit to end of row.
WS: Knit to end.
Repeat last two rows 1, 2, 2, 2, 2 // 2, 2, 2, 2, 2 times more.
Next RS (Buttonhole Row): K16, 17, 18, 19, 20 // 21, 22, 23, 23, 25, k2tog, yo, k3, 3, 3, 3, 3 // 3, 5, 5, 7, 7, k2tog yo, knit to
end.
Copyright 2014 Lisa Chemery. All rights reserved. 3

WS: Knit to end.

RS: Knit to end.
Repeat last two rows 0, 1, 1, 1, 1 // 1, 1, 1, 1, 1 times more. On next WS: Bind off as if to knit.

Front:
Slip front sts back onto needle.
Join yarn on WS and purl until 3 sts remain, sl3p wyif. Continue working in stockinette with I-cord edging until you have 1.5"
or 4cm from front/back separation, ending with a WS row.
Next RS: Knit to end.
Next WS: K4, 5, 5, 6, 6 // 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, purl to last 4, 5, 5, 6, 6 // 6, 6, 6, 7, 7 sts, knit to end of row.
RS: K4, 5, 5, 6, 6 // 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, ssk, k to last 6, 7, 7, 8, 8 // 8, 8, 8, 9, 9 sts, k2tog, knit to end of row.
Repeat last two rows 8, 9, 9, 9, 9 // 10, 11, 12, 13, 15 more times. 22, 22, 24, 26, 28 // 28, 30, 30, 30, 30 sts remain.
On next WS row: Knit to end.
RS: Knit to end.
WS: Knit to end.
Work last two rows twice more.

Make right and left straps

Next, you will separate the right and left straps as follows (note: binding off the center sts as explained will ensure that the
neckline has tidy inner corners1).
On next RS row: K4, 4, 4, 5, 5 // 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, kfb, k1, pass second st on tip of right needle over first st, continue to bind off
until you have 6, 6, 6, 7, 7 // 7, 7, 7, 8, 8 sts on your left needle, sl1p, pass bindoff leftover st on right needle over slipped st,
slip st from right to left needle and k2tog the first 2 sts on the left needles, knit to end of row. You now have 5, 5, 5, 6, 6 // 6,
6, 6, 7, 7 sts each for right and left straps.

Next, you will work on right strap (leaving the live left strap sts stored on the cable of your circular needle):
Work even in garter stitch (knit every row, slipping the first st of each row purlwise if desired, for a neat edge) until strap
measures 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5 // 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10.5 inches or 14, 15, 16.5, 18, 19 // 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 26.5 cm. Bind off on
WS as if to knit.

Now, work on left strap:

Joining yarn on WS (at neck side), work left strap as right strap (count garter ridges to make sure the straps are the same
length).

Make side tabs:

Joining yarn and with Back’s RS facing, pick up and knit 4, 6, 6, 6, 6 // 6, 6, 6, 6, 6 sts along edge of garter section.
Then, on WS, work the following increase row: K2, 3, 3, 3, 3 // 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, m1L, K2, 3, 3, 3, 3 // 3, 3, 3, 3, 3.
You now have 5, 7, 7, 7, 7 // 7, 7, 7, 7, 7 sts.
Knit 10, 12, 12, 12, 14 // 14, 16, 16, 18, 18 more rows (6, 7, 7, 7, 8 // 8, 9, 9, 10, 10 garter ridges).
On next RS row, make a buttonhole:
RS: K1, 2, 2, 2, 2 // 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, k2tog, yo, k2, 3, 3, 3, 3 // 3, 3, 3, 3, 3.
WS: Knit to end.
RS: Knit to end.
WS: Bind off as if to knit.
Repeat for second tab.

Make ruffles on straps:

Left Strap:
Joining yarn and with RS facing, pick up and knit 1 st per garter ridge at outer edge of strap. Start at beginning of strap at

1
To find out more about this technique see the following links:
http://techknitting.blogspot.de/2008/12/ordinary-chain-bind-off-part-2a-binding.html
http://techknitting.blogspot.de/2009/01/ordinary-chain-bind-off-part-2b-binding.html
Copyright 2014 Lisa Chemery. All rights reserved. 4

front and finish approximately 1.5" or 4cm before strap's unattached end at back. (Note: as a variation, you can pick up fewer
stitches so that the ruffles looks more like little cap sleeves)

WS: Kfb until 1 st remains on left needle, sl1p wyif.

RS: K1, ssk, knit until 3 sts remain, k2tog, sl1p wyif.
WS: K1, p2tog, purl to 3 st, p2togtbl, sl1p wyif.
Work last 2 rows 2, 3, 3, 3, 3 // 4, 4, 4, 4, 5 more times.
Next row (RS): Knit until 1 st remains on left needle, sl1p wyif.
WS: Sl1p wyib, sl1p wyib, pass first slipped st over second slipped st, then bind off remaining sts as if to knit.

Right Strap:
Do the same as for left strap but pick up and knit the sts starting at unattached end of strap.

Finishing:

Wet-block garment. Weave in loose ends. Firmly sew on buttons at edge of straps and on front of dress so they are level with
the side tab buttonholes. (The side tabs are designed to be fastened without pulling, with the back and front of the dress
edge to edge, but the fit can be adjusted as the child grows by placing the buttons closer to the front or to the sides.)
For the larger sizes, to avoid the straps getting stretched out over time, I recommend sewing on a length of grosgrain ribbon
on the WS.

Dear fellow knitter, this pattern was designed by Lisa Chemery for your personal use only. Please don’t sell, reproduce, photocopy, email, or distribute any part of this pattern in any
way without my express consent. Also, please don’t sell any garments made from this pattern. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me at
frogginetteknittingpatterns@gmail.com