Foot Last
Shoe lasts is a replica of the human Foot on which shoe is moulded/manufactured.
The fitting of a shoe depends on the shape & volume of the shoe last. The shoe last
must represent the anatomical information of the finished shoe a pleasing &
fashionable appearance.
Each Shoe Last is designed for a particular heel height, toe shape & type of footwear.
Many styles of shoes can be made on the same last but the toe shape & heel height
will be the same for each pair made on similar shoe last. If you want to have shoes
with different toe shapes, then it is necessary to create more than one pair of shoe
lasts.
For this we should acknowledge about basic information first:-
• Toe Shape:-Like Round, Square
• Toe Spring & Heel Height
• Fitting Measurement:- narrow, medium and wide (S, M, L, XL)
• Gender:- Gents, Ladies, children
• Category of shoe:-formal, informal and safety shoes etc.
• Type/ Materials
Diagram of Last
Toe Profile/Box
Waist Part
Fore/Toe Part Points on Last: Hind/Back/Heel/
Counter/Rear Part
Reference Points of Shoe Last:-
Feather Edge
Fore Part: The Portion of the Last Extended forward from the break of the ball or
trade point to the Toe.
Waist Part: Curve area of the last where arch stay.
Hind/Counter/Back/Rear Part: The Portion of the last rearward from the end of
waist part where heel of foot stay.
Feather Edge/Line: A line that separate bottom & Upper part of a last all around.
Vamp Point: That point from where our foot flex or flexing point of the foot.
Ball Point or Trade Point: Position of 1st & 5th Metatarsal head or maximum width
point of the last touch with base plane.
Joint or Ball Girth: Fitting measurement of the Shoe.
Waist Girth: Girth around the waist of last, measured across inner and outer
longitudinal arch.
Instep Point: We can say final measuring point of fore part or Foot insertion point of
Last.
Instep Girth: Girth around the foot at the instep, measured across inner and outer
longitudinal arch.
Short Heel Girth: The distance around the foot from the rear base of the heel to the
top of the instep point, seat to lowest in front of ankle boot.
Long heel girth: The dimension around a last passing through the vamp point and
heel feather lone point.
Throat Opening: This is the distance in a straight line from the vamp point to the
back seam/tack/height, or we can say maximum opening point of the shoe.
Thimble/Socket: The thimble is a metal sleeve inserted in the top heel end of a last
for Mounting/Lasting/De-Lasting.
Types of Last Material Wise:
The following basic kind of raw materials is mainly used for the making of shoe last.
Wood: Maple, Amara, beech, Mango, Pitraj etc.
Metallic: Cast Iron, Aluminum
Plastic: Polyvinyl chloride (PVC), High Density Poly Ethylene (HDPE)
Types of Last Design/Requirement/Structure Wise:
Solid Block Last:
This is a last made with single block of material. It is mainly used for model
finalization& Manufacturing of Chappal/Sandal/Slliper or wide-open Footwear.
Thong Last
Scoop Last:-
It is two separate parts Last, a cut is made as shown in picture which removes a large
portion from the top for loose fastening of it made by means of a plug. For un- last
the shoe from the last the upper portion is separated first then it becomes easy to un-
last the shoe from the last most of the handmade shoe makers are using this last.
Slide –O- Matic/Telescopic:-
There is no gape in between two blocks of the last, it shortened by moving in the
upward direction to facilitate removal of the lasted shoe.
Ordinary/ Conventional Hinge Last:
It is also two part but differs entirely from scoop last. A V cut is made on the block a
metal piece connecting the front & rear part of the last, It shortened by moving in
the down ward direction to facilitate removal of the lasted shoe.
Types of Last Bottom Plating wise:
1. Toe and Shank Plated Last,
2. Toe & Heel Plated Last
3. Full Plated Last,
4. Shank Plated Last
5. Heel Plated Last
6. No plating
Last Measurements:-
There are four girth and circumference measurements taken on a last. These are the ball; waist,
instep and heel (back of heel to instep). Measurement requires careful assessment of the foot,
which cannot be accomplished with the same precision as linear measurements. The modern
last maker uses precision instruments to determine girth but the old shoemakers used the hand
span to this same effect.
Aspects of the foot were measured against the shoemaker's hand; the ball of the foot was
compared to the girth between the thumb and the middle finger. The instep was measured
between the thumb and the little finger. This method was subject to enormous variations
depending upon the size of the shoemaker's hand.
Important check points for Lasts: -
Whether the shape, dimension and profiles of a last are correct
or not are ascertained by taking physical measurement at the
following check points and by comparing with appropriate
templates.
• Overall length
• Accuracy of bottom shape.
• Accuracy of joint measurement.
• Accuracy of instep measurement
• Accuracy of bottom and back profile.
• Accuracy of toe profile.
• Accuracy of location point for counter, vamp & instep.
