Jupiter Mesh Tank
This sheer tank is knit bottom-to-top with mohair.
Begin in the round, separate front and back after
armpit, and return to knitting in the round later for
the neck. For the neat stripey effect, use a
variegated yarn.
Size abbreviations (US) throughout the pattern are
arranged as follows: XS (S) M (L) XL (XXL)
Please see a list of abbreviations at the end of the
pattern.
Materials:
• Needles: sz 7 US circular needles
• Yarn: 1-2 50g skeins of lace-weight mohair
yarn: 431 (450) 482 (520) 558 (584) yds. For the
example pictured, I used the variegated
Rowan Kidsilk Haze Colour in “Wine”
• Stitch holders, or scrap yarn to hold stitches
after separating front and back
Gauge:
4x4” square is 17 stitches across and 28 rows tall
Measurements:
Please see size charts below for approximate measurements for the finished, blocked product, in inches
and centimeters. The chart below appoints letters do each dimension of the finished piece, also
explained in the bullets below:
• “A” refers to the width of the bust and body
• “B” refers to the width of the upper chest
• “C” refers to the width of the neck
• “D” refers to the length between shoulder and armpit
• “E” refers to the length between shoulder and bottom
Size Chart & Measurements: INCHES
Measured flat Circumference
Size Body/ Upper Neck
A B C D E
Bust (2A) chest (2B) (2C)
XS 17.2 12.9 8.1 6.7 16.8 34.5 25.9 16.3
S 18.0 13.5 8.5 7.0 17.5 36.0 27.0 17.0
M 19.3 14.5 9.1 7.5 18.7 38.5 28.9 18.2
L 20.8 15.6 9.8 8.1 20.2 41.6 31.2 19.6
XL 22.3 16.7 10.5 8.7 21.7 44.6 33.5 21.1
XXL 23.3 17.5 11.0 9.1 22.7 46.6 35.0 22.0
Size Chart & Measurements: CM
Measured flat Circumference
Size Upper
Body/ Neck
A B C D E chest
Bust (2A) (2C)
(2B)
XS 44.1 33.0 21.1 16.3 43.1 88.1 66.1 42.1
S 46.0 34.5 22.0 17.0 45.0 92.0 69.0 44.0
M 49.2 36.9 23.5 18.2 48.2 98.5 73.9 47.1
L 53.1 39.8 25.4 19.6 52.0 106.3 79.7 50.8
XL 57.0 42.8 27.3 21.1 55.8 114.0 85.5 54.5
XXL 59.6 44.7 28.5 22.0 58.3 119.2 89.4 57.0
Pattern:
1. Cast on (CO) 172 (180) 194 (208) 224 (234) stitches using long-tail cast on. Join in the round
2. Work next 1” in K1P1 rib
3. Begin working piece in stockinette (K all stitches). Continue until 9” (9.5”) 10” (11”) 12” (12.5”)
from cast-on
4. Divide the piece to independently work the front and back (place half of all stitches on the front
needle, and half on back). Keep front stitches on working needles, and move back stitches to
yarn holder
5. (RS) You will create the armpit by binding stitches off on each side. Begin by binding off 5 (5) 5
(6) 6 (6) stitches using your preferred method. Then knit to last 5 (5) 5 (6) 6 (6) stitches, and bind
these off using your preferred method
6. (WS) P all stitches
7. (RS) You will decrease one stitch from each end of the row, using your preferred method, and
knit all stitches in between. For example: K1, then SSK, then K all stitches, then K2tog, then K1.
8. (WS) P all stitches
9. Repeat steps 7-8 until 8 (8) 8 (8) 9 (9) stitches have been decreased from each side (16-18
stitches decreased total)
10. Continue working piece in stockinette; K every stitch on RS rows and P every stitch on WS, until
piece measures 7.5 (8) 8.5 (9.5) 10 (11) inches from armpit
11. BO 14 (14) 15 (16) 17 (18) stitches from each end for shoulders, using preferred method
12. Move center live stitches, for neck, to stitch holder. Move stitches from backside to active
needles
13. Repeat steps 5-11 to work back of garment
14. Join live stitches from front and back in the round. It doesn’t need to be exact, but you should
have about 68 (72) 78 (84) 90 (92) stitches from front and back combined. Increase or decrease
as needed to reach an even number of stitches
15. K all stitches for 8 (8) 8 (8) 9 (9) rows
16. Work remaining rows in K1P1 rib, for 5 (5) 5 (6) 6 (6) additional rows
17. BO all neck stitches using stretchy method
18. Sew the front and back side of each shoulder together using a mattress stitch
19. Pick up stitches around left armhole—roughly one stitch for every row, and every stitch directly
under the armpit (where stiches were bound off earlier)
20. Work left armhole in K1P1 for 7 rows
21. BO left armhole using stretchy method. (I personally used a less stretchy method for the 20
stitches under each armhole, for a tighter fit)
22. Repeat steps 19-21 to work right armhole
23. Sew in loose ends, and block. Voila!
Abbreviations:
CO: Cast On
K: Knit stitch
P: Purl stitch
K1P1: Knit one stitch, purl one stitch (ribbing sequence)
RS: “Right side”, this is the outside of your garment
WS: “Wrong side,” this is the inside of your garment
SSK: “Slip-slip-knit,” decrease 1 stitch
K2tog: “Knit two together,” decrease 1 stitch
