METHODS of CONTROLING
FULLNESS or DISPOSING
FULNESS
Controlling Fullness
Fullness is done to shape a garment. It also aids in garment fitting. It adds
interesting design details in a garment. For ease of movement and comfort
fullness is introduced in garments. There are various types of fullness. Some
of most common types of fullness are Shirring, tucks, pleats and gathering.
Gathers
Soft folds of fabric formed by pulling basting stitches to make the larger
piece of fabric fit into a smaller space. Can be made using a sewing
machine or hand stitched. Fabric is drawn together on a line of stitching
Uses of Gathers
May be used to control fullness
at: Waistlines, yoke lines, Upper and
lower edges of sleeve
Gathering by hand
Work two rows of running stitches 1/4 inch apart – 1/8 inch above and
below the seam line. Draw the ends of threads until the section
measures the desired length Secure the thread by winding round a pin
Gathering by Machine
Make seam line on the right side of the fabric by adjusting the machine
for long stitch and loosening the upper tension slightly. Work two rows
of machine stitches ¼ inch apart. Distribute the fullness evenly by
pulling both bobbin threads together.
Gathering using Elastic
Gathers can be made by stretching a narrow strip of elastic and
stitching on the part of the garment which is to be gathered.
Shirring
When several rows of gathering (3 or more) are used for a decorative
finish these are termed shirring The rows are evenly spaced Shirring
appears as a decorative feature at : the shoulder waistline at the lower
edge of a sleeve and usually at the narrower parts of garment.
METHODS
OF SHIRRING
Shirring can be done by Thread shirrs- Elasticized
shirrs
Shirring is created by sewing multiple parallel rows
of stitching. If you only sew one row of stitching
with elastic bobbin thread, it will hardly gather the
fabric. The more stitching lines you sew, the more
gathered the result will be.
Pleats
Pleats are folds in a garment done on the waistline of skirts, yokes and
sleeves at equal distance to release fullness. Pleats are done on top and
fall neatly to the bot-tom of fabric. The material required to make a
pleat is three times the size of a finished pleat. They are normally about
2.5 to 5 cm. They create eye movement and can be used as style detail.
The effect of pleat varies depending on the fabric used. The depth of
pleat depends on the weight of fabric and the effect required.
Different Type Of Pleats
• Knife pleat.
• Box pleat.
• Inverted pleat.
• Accordion pleat.
• Sun ray pleat.
• Pinch pleat.
• Kick pleat.
Knife Pleats
Knife pleat are usually about 2.5 to 3 cm width. Knife pleats are folds
made by a row of stitch in same direction, generally at the top where
the pleats start. They can be used continuously, grouped (5 or 6) or can
be used as a single pleat. They form a sharp edge at the top and then
flare out.
Method of Sewing a Knife Pleat
• Mark lines where fold has to be made.
• Fold along the marked line.
• Pin and sew along the marked line.
• Remove pin and cut the excess threads.