Assignment On

“Yarn Count Measuring System”

Presented To,
Sharmin akter

Lecturer of
Daffodil International University
Presented By,
Name : Ismail Hossen
ID : 201-23-798

Date of Submission;
31-10-2020
 PREFACE
The manufacturing of textile is one of the oldest and most important
industries of all. Its raw materials are fibers and the next and most important
part is yarn forming or yarn manufacturing.

In this assignment an outline is given about the yarn count, counting system
and several ways how to converting yarn count with examples.

Here, yarn counting system is described in two parts where first one is
Analytical which includes different mathematical term and equations and
another is Instrumental which is about measuring the yarn count by using
several machine or instrument.

In writing this assignment, I have been given much encouragement and help
by many books, writing, videos and specially by my course instructor
………………. I would like to acknowledge there help with grateful thanks.

COUNT

The count is nothing but a numerical expression which defines the thinness or
thickness of a yarn. It means that, the yarn count refers how much a yarn is
fine or course. We also can say that the yarn count number indicates the
length of yarn in relation to the weight.
But according to the Textile Institute, they define yarn count as “A number
indicating the mass per unit length or length per unit mass of a yarn”.
Yarn count is also known as yarn number or linear density.

SYSTEM OF COUNT NUMBERING

Different sorts of system or units are used to measuring the yarn count or
yarn number which mostly depends on the material used for preparing the
yarn and the area where it was manufactured.
All the system of count measuring can be grouped as following categories;

* Analytical System &

* Instrumental System.

Analytical System
Actually this process is consisting with some other systems based on several
calculations and this is why it is called Analytical system. The systems are
including;

* Direct System &

* Indirect System

Direct System
In this system, the count of the yarn is the number of units of weight per unit
length of yarn. This system is mostly used for silk, jute etc.
We can work in this system by following categories;
 Tex
 Denier &
 Jute Count

Tex
It can be defined as the weight present in 1000 meter of yarn in grams where
length of yarn is fixed. It means that, for example, if there is a 1000 meter of
yarn and have a weight of 20gm then the yarn count will be 20tex. Because
tex refers the weight in gram of unit length.
Here is the equation for determining the yarn count in Tex;

Weight in grams
 Tex = , or
Length in 1000 meter

Sample weight in gm * Unit length (1000m)

Tex =
Sample length in meter

An extra qualification of Tex system we know that it is known as the

universal process of yarn count which is introduce by International Standard
Organization (ISO) with several textile scientists, technologists and
manufacturers.

 Denier
It is defined as the weight of yarn thread in grams presented in per 9000
meter length of that yarn. It is just like about Tex system only has to change
the unit length from 1000m to 9000m and then the equation of denier
becomes as;

Sample weight in gm * Unit length (9000m)

Den =
Sample length in meter

As an example we can say about 454 meter of yarn containing 5 gram of

weight then the count in Den will be

6 * 9000
Den =
454

= 118.9 den

 Jute Count
The weight of yarn of 1 lb present in 14400 yds length of yarn is known as
jute count or pounds per spindle.

 Indirect System
In this system the count is the number of unites of length per unit weight of
yarn. In this case yarn fineness is inverse to the yarn count, it means that the
more the yarn count, the finer the yarn. By this system we can measure the
count number of cotton, woolen, worsted linen etc.
This is also having some sub-system as following;

 Cotton Count
 Metric Count &
 Worsted count.

 Cotton Count
Actually by the term cotton count can be defined as the number of hanks of
840 yds presented in 1 lb weight of yarn. This is also known as British or
English count. It is denoted by Ne
The equation of cotton count measurement is as following;

Length in hanks of 840 yds

Count, Ne = , or
Weight in lbs

Sample length in yds * unit weight

Ne =
Sample weight in lbs * unit length
Now for an example, if we consider a yarn sample of 2000 yds with a weight
of 0.08 lb then the cotton count will be

2000 * 1
Count, Ne =
0.08 * 840
 = 29.7 Ne

 Metric Count
Metric count is express 1000 gm or 1 kg weight of yarn can contains how
many numbers of hanks of 1000 meter. It is denoted by Nm.
The formula of measuring metric count is;

Sample length in meter * unit weight

Metric Count, Nm =
Sample weight in kg * unit length

For example, if we consider a yarn of 2000m having the weight of 450g. So

the count in metric system will be
2000 * 1
Metric Count, Nm =
0.45 * 1000
= 4.4 Nm

 Worsted Count
It is the number of hanks of 560 yds presented in 1 lb weight of yarn is
known as worsted count which is widely used for yarn composed by wool.

 Instrumental System

By this process count of yarn is measured by using different sorts of

instrument where any kind of calculation is not needed and we can get
directly the yarn count. The machines which are mostly used of count
measurement are given bellow;

 Quadrant Balance
 Beesley Balance
  Stubb Yarn Balance

 Quadrant Balance
In textile testing lab we have to measure yarn count of different length.
Where some are long but some are short. All the machine or balance can’t
measure the count of short lengths yarn. To overcome this obstacle a balance
named Quadrant was made to measure the count of yarn containing the
length less than 120 yards and this is a direct reading yarn count balance.

 Machine Parts
This balance is consisting with the following parts;

a. Quadrant scale e. Yarn sample

b. Piller f. Sample hook
c. Pointer g. Leveling screw
d. Counter weight
  Machine Description
This balance have a quadrant scale which is divided into other three
scale including the top one scale is used to find the weight per squire yard of
sample the middle one find the count of yarn length 8 yards and finally the
third one is used to find the count of yarn of length 40 yards.
A pillar is used to hold all the parts and the quadrant scale is attached
with the pillar by a pivote.
Another pivote hold a pointer which mark the reading on the scale.
The same pivote holds a beam which has a sample hook at one end and
a counter weight in another.
At the base of the balance there is a leveling screw by which we can
leveled the instrument.
Finally when we put the sample in the sample hook adjusting with the
counter weight the pointer show the count of yarn directly on the scale.
One important thing is that we have to calibrate the balance before we
used it. The pointer of this machine will reads 40s on 40 yards scale when it
is leveled but if not we have to calibrate again properly.

 Beesley Balance
Beesley balance is widely used for measuring the yarn count removed from a
fabric sample. This is work on the principal of fixed length and fixed weight
system.

 Machine Parts
The Beesley balance is consisting by the following parts;

a. Base f. Datum line

b. Pillar g. Pivot
c. Beam h. Rider
d. Pointer i. Sample hook
e. Notch j. Leveling screw
k. Template
  Machine Description
This balance is stands on a base where a leveling screw is present
which is used to level the instrument and if it is leveled the pointer, at one
end of the beam, will equal to the datum line.
The beam is attached with the pillar by a pivot and there is a hook at
the opposite site of the pointer at the beam which holds the sample.
There is also a notch in the beam which holds the rider according to the
sample, if the sample is warp yarn, the rider will be full weight & if the
sample is weft then there will be the half rider 68mg of weight.
Finally, after setting the machine we will count the number of yarn that
make the pointer leveled to the datum line and the number of yarn will be the
yarn count in Ne.

 Stubb Yarn Balance

Stubb yarn balance is also worked on the basis of fixed length & fixed weight
as like a Beesley balance and it is used to find the count of fabric sample.
Here the number of fixed weight yarn gives the count of yarn.

 Machine Description
This Stubb yarn balance consists of a pillar, at the top of which. A
beam is pivoted on a knife edge. A sample hook is attached at one end of the
beam and a weight hook at the other end. A template is used to cut the yarn in
fixed length. Different weight hook is used for different yarn.
After selecting the weight hook the yarn to be measured is suspend at
the sample hook until the balance becomes at balance position. Thus the
number of thread used to balance the beam gives the count of the yarn.
This is a very simple instrument and there is no mechanism which goes
out of order and don’t need any electrical or other extra energy.

 CONVERSION OF COUNT

We can convert the value of count from one to other system by followings
only some formulas. So for the conversion we may divide them in four
groups as following;
1. Conversion from direct to direct
2. Conversion from indirect to indirect
3. Conversion from direct to indirect &
4. Conversion from indirect to direct
There are two formulas to convert the yarn count as given billow
1. Unknown count = Multiplying converting factor * Given count
2. Unknown count = Constant / Given count
Here the first one is used for first two group of conversion (direct to direct &
indirect to indirect) and second one is for last two group including direct to
indirect & indirect to direct.
The table of converting factor and the count constant is given billow;
 Direct to Direct
Known yarn Multiplying converting factor for unknown count
count in Tex Denier
Tex ------- 9
Denier 0.1111 ------
Jute count 34.45 310

Example; Denier of unknown count = Tex (known count) * 9

Tex of unknown count = 0.1111 * Den or Jute count
  Indirect to Indirect
Known yarn Multiplying converting factor for unknown count
count in Metric (Nm) Worsted
Cotton (Ne) 17 1.5

Example; Metric Count = 17 * known cotton or worsted count

Worsted Count = 1.5 * known cotton or Metric count

 Indirect to Indirect & Direct to Direct

Known yarn Constant

count in Tex Denier
Cotton 590.5 5315
Metric 1000 9000

Example; Metric = 9000/Known Den count

Denier = 5315/Known Ne

4. CONCLUSION

An increasingly important branch of textile technology is the geometry of

fabric structure, which is mostly depends upon the yarn structure. As a result
of yarn structure the appearance, hands feel and some other general
behaviour can be changed. Here the term yarn structure indicates the fineness
or coarseness of yarn. So it is necessary to develop our knowledge about yarn
count before starting work not only for yarn but in the textile world.

5. REFERENCES
 Books;
1. Textile Testing
By P. Angappon
2. Principal of Textile Testing
By J. E. Booth
3. Textile Testing
By Raul Jewel