CHAPTER-ONE

1.1. Introduction and understanding of different Manufacturing Systems

The textile and fashion industry is a major contributor to several national economies, including
both small- and large-scale processes globally. With concern to employment as well as
production, the textile sector is one of the prime industries in the world (Abernathy 2004). The
garment sector is a labour-oriented one and provides enormous job opportunities at the entry
level for unskilled labour in developed as well as developing nations. Further, it is a sector
where comparatively modern technologies could be implemented even in poor countries at
moderately low investment costs (Ashdown 1998). that can be either fashion or functional
garments.

1.2. Clothing manufacturing process

The fundamental manufacturing process of the apparel industry has not undergone much
change over the past century, and is considered by the progressive bundle system. Work or
operation is planned in a manner that each operator is specialized in one or a few operations
(Ashdown 1998). The fabric is first cut into various garment panels and then grouped by
components of the garment, tied into bundles and sent to an assembling (sewing) section for
making a garment. An operator receives a bundle of cut garment panels and executes his or
her single operation and keeps the bundle in a buffer. A buffer of about one day’s work is
common at each operation.
It takes about 40 operations to finish a pair of pants, which entails about 40 days of in-process
inventory. Though numerous advances in the industrial engineering segment for systematizing
the operations and reducing the production time of each individual operation have taken place
over a period of time, the basic method has remained the same (Ashdown 1998; Abernathy
2004).
The new technologies, systems and innovations in the clothing sector have improved efficiency
at each production stage and enhanced the harmonisation between stages and provided a more
seamless interface between them (Bheda et al. 2003). The major breakthrough innovation was
the use of computers in clothing manufacturing in areas like pattern making, marker planning
and computerized automatic cutting machines.
This machine has made it possible to cut increasingly thick layers of cloth accurately (Tyler
1992; Chuter 1995; Fairhurst 2008). These advancements are mainly associated with the
preassembly phase of production, where technological developments have been more
important than at the assembly stage. The organisation structure of a medium-sized garment
industry is shown in Figure 1.1.

Figure 1.1: The organisation structure of a medium-sized garment industry.

Garment manufacturing is an assembly- oriented activity with a great range of raw materials,
product types, production volumes, supply chains, retail markets and associated technologies.
Consumers now demand more variety in product lines and retailers expect faster delivery,
better quality and lower costs. The ability to meet increasingly stringent delivery
commitments while also maximizing profits is critical to any company's success in today's
global business environment. Every season, fashion/apparel companies must continually
design and develop new lines and collections to keep retailers interested and spur consumer
sales. Being able to meet delivery dates and quickly respond to market trends is critical,
increasing the need for more accurate forecasting, planning and scheduling.
These goals can only be achieved if a company recognizes the critical role played by planning
and scheduling in the manufacturing and distribution processes. Poor planning costs money -
orders are delayed, priority orders are overlooked, sales and customers are lost, and the level
of obsolescent inventory increases.

Figure 1.2: Garment manufacturing processes flow

Understanding garment manufacturing processes and ability of efficient production planning
is crucial for the survival of garment industries. Garment production systems revolutionized
in the past several years. The industrial scale production of garments and similar textile end-
products is an activity that has roots back to the 19th century, and that has profited
immensely from continuous technological development since its first emergence. These
developments reflect on important aspects of the industrial production infrastructure, as are
product design and development, production planning and management, and manufacturing
equipment itself. But several characteristics of garment manufacturing make it difficult to
manage and control production processes.
The first of the characteristics of textile materials significant in this aspect are its limpness and
elasticity. These properties make material handling and transportation within the shopfloor,
and at the individual assembly operations, very difficult to automate. Although equipment
manufacturers have continuously been developing all kinds of auxiliary devices aimed at
increasing productivity and quality it can been observed that almost all of the operation
involved in garment assembly still depend on the human operator or on its supervision
(especially in sewing operations). When human intervention in manufacturing increases,
enormous quality and productivity problem raises. By nature, man can’t be concentrated and
attentive for long period of time resulting inconsistency of products which has huge impact in
quality. Difference in skills, fatigue, and handling affect the productivity of garment
manufacturing.
The second most fascinating aspect that affects garment industries production is paradigm
shift in international trading of garments. As global markets change, manufacturing strategies
are also changing. Flexible manufacturing that strives to be responsive to customer demand is
getting momentum in today’s globalized market. For the apparel manufacturing plant, flexible
manufacturing means the capability to quickly and efficiently produce a variety of styles in
small production runs with no defects. This may require philosophy changes, new performance
criteria, effective use of new technology and better development and use of resources than with
traditional production systems. The underlying philosophy is that the manufacturing firm will
operate with the flexibility needed to meet the needs of its customers and the inherent ability
to adapt to immediate changes in the apparel market.
1.3. Various Departments in the Garment Industry

The various departments or sections in an apparel industry are given below.

1. Merchandising 10. CAD section
2. Sampling department 11. Cutting section
3. Fabric sourcing 12. Production department
4. Purchasing department 13. Industrial engineering section (IE)
5. Fabric inspection department 14. Embroidery department
6. Accessory stores department 15. Fabric washing section
7. Planning department 16. Quality assurance department
8. Laboratory department 17. Finishing department
9. Machine maintenance

1.4. Garment Manufacturing Systems

Garment Manufacturing is the process by which garments are created. Garment’s production
is the last process of textile production. Garment’s production is the heart of textile production.
Garment’s production includes the production of finished apparel garments. Garment
manufacturing systems combine material (fabric and accessories), labours, and capital
resources in an organised way with the objective of producing some styles.

All types of manufacturing contain two different aspects: processes and operation. Processes
are the courses in which raw material (fabric and accessories) are transformed into garments.
Operation is an action performed in material by machine or operators. Production is the
network of processes and operations. In processes, a flow of material in time and space; its
transformation from fabric to components to garments. But in operations; a work performed
to accomplish this transformation-the interaction and flow of equipment and operators in time
and space.
Productivity improvement is the capability to reduce time and space that machines and
operators interact and modify processes where raw materials flow to reduce time and space it
takes. In garment manufacturing, there are several types of production systems each having
its own process types and operations.
An apparel garments production system is an integration of materials handling, production
processes, personnel, and equipment that directs work flow and generates finished garments
products. Three types of production systems and their variations are commonly used to mass
produce apparel: progressive bundle production, unit production, and modular production of
garments.
Each system of garments production requires an appropriate management philosophy,
materials handling methods, floor layout for garments spreading, and employee training.
Firms may combine or adapt these systems to meet their specific garments production needs.
Firms may use only one production system, a combination of systems for one product line, or
different systems for different product lines in the same plant.

1.4.1. Make Through System

This is essentially the traditional method of production whereby one operator assembles the
entire garment. In men's bespoke wear, it is not uncommon for a tailor to perform nearly every
operation required to make the garment, including machining, hand work and pressing.
With this production system the operator would be given a bundle of cut work and would
proceed to sew it according to his or her own method of work. Of necessity, the labor required
by this system must be highly skilled and versatile, a combination which is becoming
exceedingly rare and increasingly expensive.
This type of system is effective when a very large variety of garments have to be produced in
extremely small quantities. A typical application would be in the sewing room of a boutique,
which produces its own merchandise. The advantages and disadvantages of a make through
system are shown in Table 1.
Table 1 - Advantages and disadvantages of Make through System.
The advantages of the Make Through
The disadvantages of the Make Through System are:
System are:
Quick throughput time. Low productivity.
Easy to supervise. High labor cost.
Effective for large variety of style Only very experienced operators can be used.
in extremely small quantity
It is a system only suitable in couture and sample making.

1.4.2. Whole Garment Production System

There are two types of whole garment production systems: (1) complete whole garment and (2)
departmental whole garment. In the whole garment system one individual makes the entire
garment from cutting the cloth to sewing and pressing the garment. The garment is ready for
dispatch once the operator completes the final operation. This type of system is used in a few
places, which are engaged in custom-wholesale. They are normally high priced and exclusively
made for a particular customer. They are limited in number and distribution; normally about
10-20 garments are made. The departmental whole garment system is also used by custom
wholesale manufacturers as well as high price or better dress manufacturers. In the
departmental whole garment system one individual does all the work with the equipment
allocated to a department. For example, one person does all the cutting work in the cutting
department, the second person does all the sewing work in the sewing department, and the
third person does the pressing and packing work. The workers in this system may use more
than one equipment to complete their respective job.

Figure 1: Make Through Manufacturing Layout

Advantages
1. This system is more effective when a very large variety of garments have to be produced
in extremely small quantities.
2. In the Individual piece rate system, the operators will do with full involvement: To
finish more pieces, to earn more money.
3. Operator will be specialized in his own working area.
4. As the pay depends upon the complication of the operation, the operator will try to
finish the complicated operation also without any difficulties.
5. The Work in Progress (WIP) is reduced, at a time one cut garment to one operator and
so the amount as inventory is reduced.
Disadvantages
1. Highly skilled laborers are used, so the cost of labor is high.
2. The operator is more concerned on the number of pieces finished rather than the quality
of work.
3. Productivity is less due to lack of specialization. For long runs/bulk quantities of the
same style is not effective in this system.

1.4.3. Section or Process System - Group System

This is a development of the making through system, with the difference that the operators
specialize in one major component and sew it from beginning to end. For example, an operator
specializing in fronts would assemble the front, set the pockets, etc and perform all the
operations required to finish that particular component.
The sewing room would have a number of sections, each containing versatile operators capable
of performing all the operations required for a specific component. The sections are built
according to the average garment produced, and include:
● Pre-assembling (the preparation of small parts)
● Front making and Back making
● Main assembly (closing, setting collars and sleeves, etc)
● Lining making and Setting linings` -
● Finishing operations (buttonholes, blind-stitching, etc)
All in all, this is a very efficient system for producing a variety of styles in reasonable
quantities. Figure 1 shows a typical layout and workflow for this type of system.
Advantages
1. As the labour of all levels, i.e. Semi-skilled, skilled, trainees can be used in this system;
the labour cost is less compared with the individual system.
2. Productivity is higher compared to individual systems, because of the use of special
machines and all types of labour.
3. This system is very efficient for producing a variety of styles in reasonable quantities.
4. Automation and specialisation can be done.
5. Absenteeism and machine breakdown problems will not cause serious problems.
Disadvantages
1. All the levels of operators are involved in the work, so the quality of garment should be
strictly maintained.
2. Even though productivity is high still the highly skilled operators are required to
perform simple operations within the section.
3. Group of people involved in each section and so we require more WIP, which increases
the inventory cost.
4. As this is not a bundling system, there are more chances to mix up of lost, shade
variation, sizes, so quality and production will be affected.

1.4.4. Conventional Bundle System

With this system, sewing machines are arranged in lines. The work flows from the central
(store) area to the first machine, from the first machine back to the store, and then on to the
next machine, and so forth. A distributor stationed at the store is responsible for receiving and
dispatching the work. The work in progress is in the form of bundles. These bundles may be
put on to a tray, a box, or a bag, or the garment parts may be wrapped and tied. The
conventional bundle system was widely used in garment factories in Hong Kong during the
1950s. At that time, the level of managerial skill was not as high as it is today. The system is
still used in certain places where there are frequent changes in garment style but a low level of
managerial skill.
Figure 2 - A conventional bundle system.

1.4.5. The Clump System

Another system that has the same characteristics as the conventional bundle system is the
'clump' system as shown in Figure 2. In Figure 2, a worker collects a clump of materials from
the worktable and carries out the first operation. After he has completed his part of the work,
he returns it to the table. A worker for the second operation then continues the work and so
on. The process is ' collection - work -return' continues until the whole garment has been
assembled.

Figure 3 - Another example of a conventional bundle system -the clump system

Table 2: Advantage and disadvantages of Conventional Bundle System
The advantages of the conventional bundle The disadvantages of conventional bundle
system are: system are:
It requires excessive handling of the materials
The system is flexible, as it can cope with
by the operators, as they have to carry their
frequent style changes.
work back to the central inventory.
Worker absenteeism does not cause any
major problems, as the controller can
It is difficult to control the inventory.
control the amount of work received and
dispatched.
It is difficult to see the work in progress at the
The system is easy to operate and supervise.
various stages of manufacture.
This system may encourage individual
workers to work faster, as they constantly Engineering of workplaces is difficult because
have to return their own work to the central machines are arranged in a limited capacity.
inventory.
It is easier to obtain a uniform level of
quality, as the controller can check the High level of work-in-progress.
quality control.
Large storage space is required to cope with
the large volume of work-in-progress.

1.4.6. Progressive Bundle System

The progressive bundle system (PBS) of garments production gets its name from the bundles
of garment parts that are moved sequentially from operation to operation. This system, often
referred to as the traditional garments production system, has been widely used by garments
manufacturers for several decades and still is today. The AAMA Technical Advisory
Committee (1993) reported that 80 percent of the apparel manufacturers used the bundle
system of garments production. They also predicted that use of bundle systems for garments
production would decrease as firms seek more flexibility in their production systems.

Figure 4- A progressive bundle system.

Bundles system of garments production consist of garment parts needed to complete a specific
operation or garment component. For example, an operation bundle for pocket setting might
include shirt fronts and pockets that are to be attached with garments. Bundle sizes may range
from two to a hundred parts. Some firms operate with a standard bundle size of particular
garments, while other firms vary bundle sizes according to cutting orders, fabric shading, size
of the pieces in the bundle, and the operation that is to be completed. Some firms use a dozen
or multiples of a dozen of garments because their sales are in dozens. Bundles of garments are
assembled in the cutting room where cut parts are matched up with corresponding parts and
bundle tickets.
Bundles of cut parts are transported to the sewing room in the garments and given to the
garments operator scheduled to complete the garments production operation. One garment
operator is expected to perform the same operation on all the pieces in the bundle, re-tie the
bundle, process coupons, and set it aside until it is picked up and moved to the next operation
of garments production. A progressive bundle system of garments production may require a
high volume of work in process cause of the number of units in the bundles and the large buffer
of backup that is needed to ensure a continuous work flow for all operators in garments.
The progressive bundle system of garments production may be used with a skill center or line
layout depending on the order that bundles are advanced through garments production. Each
style may have different processing requirements and thus different routing. Routing identifies
the basic operations, sequence of garments production, and the skill centers where those
garments operations are to be performed. Some garments operations are common to many
styles, and at those operations, work may build up waiting to be processed.
With the progressive bundle system, the sewing operations are laid out in sequence. Each
operator receives a bundle, does his work, re-ties the bundle and passes it to the next operator.
Figure 3 shows a schematic view of the progressive bundle system. There is usually a storage
facility such as rack, bin or table for storing the inter-process work between each operation.
The work is routed by means of tickets. Any imbalance in production can be corrected by using
utility workers. This system is the most widely used system in the garment industry today. It
is used in shirt factories, jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.

Figure 5- A progressive bundle system.

Table 3: Advantages and Disadvantages of PBS
The advantages of the progressive
The disadvantages of progressive bundle system are:
bundle system are:
High productivity. Machine investment costs are highy.
The system is not very adaptable for short-run
A high level of labor utilization can
production and frequent style changes, as these
be achieved.
require rearrangement of the workstations.
A uniformly high standard of work It involves high handling costs for bundle handling and
can be achieved. transportation.
Training time and costs can be It requires a high level of work in progress and
reduced. therefore a high capital commitment.
It requires a high level of management skill to arrange
Semi-skilled labor can be used. the workflow and decide on the number of operators for
each operation.

Individual performance can be

monitored and incentives offered.

1.4.7. Flexible Flow System

It is similar to the progressive bundle system, shown in Figure 4. The main feature of this
system is that a section of sewing operators, each with a supply of work in a rack at the side,
work at an engineered workplace. The machines are laid out in such a way that a flow of work
can be planned using the correct number of operators in sequence. In Figure 4, two styles of
garment are being made at one time. For style Garments, the work distributed after operation
1 can be distributed to the two operators performing operation 2. On Completion, the work
from both workers is then sent to operator 3. After operation 3, the work is continued by the
two operators performing operation 4 and so on. Style B progresses more or less the same way
as that of style A.
One important point to notice is that when a new style is to be loaded on to the system, the
number of operators needed for each operation must be planned in detail to ensure a balanced
output. The number of operators for an operation should be proportionate to the time needed
for that operation. Detailed planning ensures that if the production runs on a style is short,
only a few operators are allocated to that style.

Figure 6 - Flexible flow system.

Table 4: Advantage and Disadvantages of Flexible Production system
The advantages of the flexible
The disadvantages of flexible flow system are:
flow system are:
Machine investment costs are less than progressive bundle
High productivity.
systems.
The system is adaptable for short-run production and
A high level of labor utilization
frequent style changes, as these do not require
can be achieved.
rearrangement of the workstations.
A uniformly high standard of It involves high handling costs for bundle handling and
work can be achieved. transportation.
It requires a high level of work in progress and therefore a
Semi-skilled labor can be used.
high capital commitment.
 It requires a high level of management skill to arrange the
Individual performance can be
work flow and decide on the number of operators for each
monitored and incentives offered.
operation.

1.4.8. Straight Line System

With this system, the manufacturing process is broken down into several operations, which
take the same time to complete. Figure 5 shows an example of a straight-line system. Groups
of operators are required to handle only individual garments. The garment parts (in trays) pass
from one operator to the next, until the garment has been completely made up by one group
of operators. The central distribution unit may be a fixed table, which must be wide enough
for the type and style of garment being assembled and long enough to accommodate the
required number of operations. Alternatively, the distribution unit may be a conveyor belt, as
shown in Figure 5 when a moving conveyor belt is used, its speed will be set to suit the cycle
time.
The straight-line system is used where production continues for six to eight weeks. In the
garment industry, examples of this system can be found in factories making underwear,
overalls, shirts, and certain classic garments.

Figure 7 - An example of a straight line system

Table 5: The advantages and disadvantages of Straight-Line System
The advantages of the straight-line system
The disadvantages of straight-line system are:
are:

The throughput time is fast and the work in

The system is not very flexible to style change.
progress is low.

Material handling time is low and there is

Quality control can be difficult to achieve.
no back tracking of material.
Absenteeism can cause problems, as the system is based
The space required for each operator is small.
on workers working within a time limit.

It does not require a great deal of technical Machine breakdowns and worker absenteeism or
supervision. lateness may disrupt the workflow.

The opportunities to engineer work places are limited

Shading control can be improved.
and it is difficult to introduce specialization.

The system requires a high investment in machinery, as

it is necessary to duplicate several different types of
machines

A high standard of work measurement is necessary and

high pre-production skills are required.

1.4.9. Synchro Flow System

Another system having similar characteristics to the straight-line system is the 'Synchro flow'
system, shown in Figure 6. With this system, garment parts of the same size and color are
processed separately. Different garment parts can be processed simultaneously for assembling.
You can see from Figure 6 that the main body of the garment goes down a central line. At the
seam time, collars, sleeves, cuffs, pockets, etc., from other lines also go down a central line. The
different garment parts are then processed together to form completed garments.
 Figure 8 - A synchro flow system.
Table 6: the advantage and disadvantage of the synchro production system
The advantage of the Synchro flow system The disadvantages of synchro flow system are:
are:
The throughput time is fast and the work in Absenteeism can cause problems, as the system is
progress is low based on workers working within a time limit
Material handling time is low and there is no Machine breakdowns and worker absenteeism or
back tracking of material lateness may disrupt the workflow
It does not require a great deal of technical A high standard of work measurement is necessary
supervision and high pre-production skills are required

1.4.10. Unit Production System

A unit production system (UPS) is a computer-controlled production line. It is a type of line

layout that uses an overhead transport system to move individual units from work-station to
workstation for assembly.
The first Unit Production System for garment manufacturing was developed about 1965 by
the Eton Manufacturing Company of Sweden. The concept was not new - for many years
overhead conveyors have been used in other industries to transport work pieces from station
to station in a fixed sequence. What made the Eton System different was that one could very
quickly, via a mechanical keypad, reprogram the sequencing of each workstation. This allowed
for rapid routing changes in the transportation sequence of garment parts. The flow of the
work could now be set according to the sequencing requirements of each style and each would
move through its production cycle without any work-moving labor cost. This system
effectively eliminated the need for bundle-handling labor.
A unit production system (UPS) of garments production is a type of line layout that uses an
overhead transporter system to move garment components from workstation to workstation
for assembly. All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production line
together by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead conveyor. The overhead
rail garments production system consists of the main conveyor and accumulating rails for each
work station of garments. The overhead conveyor operates much like a railroad track. Carriers
are moved along the main conveyor and switched to an accumulating rail at the workstation
where an operation is to be performed. At the completion of an operation the operator presses
a button, and the carrier moves on to the next operation.
Most unit production systems of garments production are linked to a computer control center
that routes and tracks production and provides up-to-the-minute data for management
decisions. The automatic control of workflow sorts work, balances the line, and reduces claims
of favoritism in bundle distribution in garments production. Electronic data collection
provides payroll and inventory data, immediate tracking of styles, and costing and
performance data for prompt decisions.
Processing begins at a staging area in the sewing room of garments. Cut parts for one unit of a
single style are grouped and loaded directly from the staging area to a hanging carrier. Loading
is carefully planned so minimal handling is required to deliver garment parts in precisely the
order and manner that they will be sewn. When possible, garments operations are completed
without removing the parts from the carrier. Varied sizes and types of hanging carriers are
available for different types of garments products. Automated garments handling replaces the
traditional garments production system of bundling, tying and untying, and manually moving
garment parts. Unit production systems eliminate most of the lifting and turning needed to
handle bundles and garment parts.

Figure 9 - Unit Production System using computerized selector conveyors.

The need for bundle tickets and processing operator coupons is also eliminated when an
integrated computer system monitors the work of each garments operator. Individual barcodes
or electronic devices are embedded in the carriers and read by a barcode scanner at each
workstation and control points in garments factories. Any data that are needed for sorting and
processing such as style number, color shade, and lot can be included.
Integrated garments production systems have on-line terminals located at each workstation to
collect data on each operation. Each garment operator may advance completed units, reroute
units that need repair or processing to a different station of garments, and check their
efficiencies and earnings. Garment’s operators may signal for more inventory or call for a
supervisor if assistance is needed. The terminals at each station enable the central control
center to track each unit at any given moment and provide garments management with data
to make immediate decisions on routing and scheduling.
Garment operators of the UPS control center can determine sequences of orders and colors to
keep operators supplied with work and to minimize change in equipment, operations, and
thread colors. A unit garments production system can control multiple routes and
simultaneous production of multiple styles without restructuring production lines in garments.
The control center may perform routing and automatic balancing of work flow, which reduces
bottlenecks and work stoppages. Each operator as well as the control center is able to monitor
individual work history. Data can be collected on the amount of time an garment operator
works, time spent on each individual unit, number of units completed, the operator who
worked on each unit, and the piece rate earned for each unit in garments. The system of
garments production will calculate the earnings per hour, per day, and the efficiency rate of
each garments operator.

Figure 10 - Unit Production System using computerized selector conveyors.

Advantages of Unit Production System of garments production:
Benefits of a unit garments production system depend on how a production system is used and
the effectiveness of management. Throughput time in the sewing room can be drastically
reduced when compared to the progressive bundle system of garments production because
works in process levels are reduced. Garments operator productivity increases. Direct labor
costs are reduced because of prepositioned parts in the carriers and elimination of bundle
processing. Indirect labor costs may be reduced by elimination of bundle handling and
requiring fewer supervisors. Quality is improved because of accountability of all garments
operators and immediate visibility of problems that are no longer concealed in bundles for
extended periods of time. The central control system in garments production makes it possible
to immediately track a quality problem to the operator that completed the operation. Other
benefits that are realized are improved attendance and employee turnover and reduced space
utilization.
Disadvantages Unit Production System of garments production:
Considerations for installing a UPS include costs of buying equipment, cost of installing,
specialized training for the production system, and prevention of downtime. Down time is a
potential problem with any of the garment production systems, but the low work in process
that is maintained makes UPS especially vulnerable.

Comparison Between unit and PBS

In the industrial sewing plants various types of sewing systems are installed. A plant owner
chooses these systems depending on the production volume, product categories, and cost
effectiveness of high tech machineries. Among those “Progressive Bundle System” (PBS) is
mostly installed sewing systems till date. In this production system bundles of cut pieces
(bundle of 5, 10, 20 or 30 pieces) are moved manually to feed the line. Then inside the line an
operator himself drags the bundle from the side table and transfers the bundle to the next
operator after completion of the work. With the advancement of the technology mechanical
material transportation systems are brought in the sewing plant. An overhead material
transport system, known as UPS (Unit Production System) transports cut pieces hanged in
hangers (one hanger for one piece) by an automated mechanical transport system. It reduces
manual transportation and it has many other benefits against the progressive bundle system.
This article is not to recommend one to replace this well placed progressive bundle system.
When to install a new technology depends on various factors. A comparison between these two
production systems has been drawn in the following table on the basis of production KPIs
(Key Performance Indicators) to show how an UPS system (overhead hanging and sensor
controlled system) is most effective over PBS.
Parameters Progressive Bundle System (PBS) Unit Production System (UPS)

Transportation -Manual transportation, many times -In this system an automated

helpers are hired for this bundle mechanical system carries pieces to
transportation job. each work station.
-Operators stop their work to fetch
bundles.
 -Less effective in terms of production -Easier pick up and dispose at each
management. Resulted long response workstation. Resulted quick
time. response time
Throughput -Compare to UPS, throughput time -Through put time in UPS is less
time longer in PBS. How much long will compared to PBS. But it is not the
depend on the bundle size and no. of minimum time as in this system
bundles kept in between two operators. there is WIP in between two
operators.
Direct Labour - Direct labour content is high because -Direct labour content is less than
content usually the operator does tying and PBS because an operator only sews
untying of bundles, positioning the garment part rather than other
components, pulling the bundle ticket tasks. In this system garment parts
and handling of work pieces. are held by the overhead hanger, so
less handling of garment
components.
WIP level -In PBS generally operators are asked to -Less WIP in between operators.
sew as many pieces as they can without The workstation has a limit of
considering back and front operators. holding no. of hangers. Also after
This resulted in piling up of work in the completion of operation hangers are
operations with higher work content. transported to the next operation
automatically.
Cutting work -As a result of High Work In Process -Lower WIP results in less cutting
requirement (WIP) is required by the sewing section, work. A balanced flow of material
cutting sections are required to perform established in between cutting and
60-70% more than actual production can sewing lines.
handle.
Inventory Level -Due high WIP and higher cutting, -Less inventory for fabric and trims.
fabrics and trims need to stock in advance
Excess labour - Usually PBS needs more overtime work, -Plant with UPS system needs less
requirement repair work due to some unfinished overtime as planning is easy in this
operations. manufacturing system.
1.4.11. Modular Garments Production System

A modular garments production system is a contained, manageable work unit that includes an

empowered work team, equipment, and work to be executed. Modules frequently operate as

tiny factories with teams responsible for group goals and self-management. The number of

teams in a plant varies with the size and needs of the firm and product line in garments. Teams

can have a niche function as long as there are orders for that type of garments product, but

the success of this type of garments operation is in the flexibility of being able to produce a

wide variety of products in small quantities in garments.

Figure 11. Modular Manufacturing

Many different names are currently used to identify modular garments production systems,
including modular garments manufacturing, cellular garments manufacturing units, compact
work teams, flexible work groups, self-directed work teams, and Toyota Sewing System (TSS)
in garments. The basic premise is similar among these production systems, although the
organization and implementation may vary.
 Figure 12. Modular Manufacturing
The number of employees on a team, usually 4 to 15, varies with the product mix. A general
rule of thumb is to determine the average number of operations required for a style being
produced and divide by three. Team members cross-trained and interchangeable among tasks
within the group. Incentive compensation is based on group pay and bonuses for meeting team
goals for output and quality. Individual incentive compensation is not appropriate for team-
based garments production. Teams may be used to perform all the operations or a certain
portion of the assembly operations depending on the organization of the module and processes
required. Before a firm can establish a modular production system, it must prioritize its goals
and make decisions that reflect the needs of the firm.
With a team-based system operator are given the responsibility for operating their module to
meet goals for throughput and quality. The team is responsible for maintaining a smooth
workflow, meeting production goals, maintaining a specified quality level, and handling
motivational support for the team. Team members develop an interdependency to improve the
process and accomplish their goals. Interdependency is the relationship among team members
that utilizes everyone's strengths for the betterment of the team.
Workflow in modular garments production
A Modular garments Production System operates as a Pull System, with demand for work
coming from the next operator in line to process the garment. Wastage is normal, and workflow
is continuous and does not wait ahead of each operation. This increases the potentials for
flexibility of styles and quantities of products that can be produced. Teams usually operate as
‘Stand-up’ or ‘Sit-down’ units.
A module may be divided into several work zones based on the sequence of garments operations
and the time required for each operation. A work zone consists of a group of sequential garment
operations. Operators are trained to perform the operations in their work zone and adjacent
operations in adjoining work zones so they can move freely from one operation to another as
the garment progresses.
Work flow within a module may be with a Single-piece hand-off, Kanban, or Bump-back
system. If a single-piece hand-off is used, machines are arranged in a very tight configuration.
As soon as an operation is completed the part is handed to the next operator for processing.
Operations need to be well balanced as there is usually only one garment component between
each operation. Some modules may operate with a buffer or small bundle of up to ten pieces of
work between operators. If a small bundle is used, an operator will complete the operation on
the entire bundle and carry the bundle to the next operation. An operator may follow a
component or bundle for as many operations as they have been trained or until the adjacent
operator is ready to assume work on the bundle.
A Kanban uses a designated work space between operations to balance supply with demand.
The designated space will hold a limited number of completed components (two or three) in
the queue for the next operation. If the designated space is full, there is no need to produce
more until it is needed or the space empties. This limits buildup of product ahead of the next
operation. When the space is full the operator can assist with other operations that may be
slow.
The bump-back or TSS (Toyota Sewing System) approach was developed by the Toyota Sewn
Product Management System and is probably the most widely used type of team-based
manufacturing. It is a stand-up module with flexible work zones and cross-trained operators.
Operators may be cross-trained on up to four different successive operations. This enables
operators to shift from operation to operation until the next operator is ready to begin work
on the garment. The operator needs work steps to the beginning of the zone and takes over the
processing at whatever point it is in the production process. The operator who has been relieved
of the garment will then move back to the beginning of the work zone and take over work on
another garment. This approach enables continuous work on a garment and allows each
operator to perform several different operations. This arrangement frequently uses a 4-to-l
ratio of machines to operators.
Advantages of a Modular Garment Production System are:
1.) High flexibility
2.) Fast throughput times
3.) Low wastages
4.) Reduced Absenteeism
5.) Reduced Repetitive Motion Ailments
6.) Increased employee ownership of the production process
7.) Empowered employees
8.) Improved Quality
Disadvantages of Modular Garments Production System:
1.) A high capital investment in equipment.
2.) High investment in initial training.
3.) High cost incurred in continued training

1.4.12. Quick response system layout

Some of the basic machinery is duplicated in different stations and if there is a bottleneck in
one section the overload is automatically transported to other stations where operator capacity
is available.
All the parts of one garment are loaded into a hanging clamp attached to the trolley and in
theory, there should only be one garment at each workstation. Work is transported by a
computer controlled, overhead trolley system and each station has an individual controller,
which provides the operator with information on the style being worked on. This information
comes from an information card, which accompanies each trolley.
A less sophisticated version of QRS uses a wheeled trolley, which contains the components for
one garment and is pushed along the floor from operator to operator.
Another feature of QRS is that all the operators work in a standing position so that they can
move quickly from one machine to another within their own workstation. Machine heights are
adjusted accordingly and touch-pads and knee-pads controls are used instead of conventional
foot pedals.
Features
● Supervision: Freed to work with the operators.
● Labour: Of necessity the operators must be highly skilled in the operation of all the
different machines in one workstation.
● Quality: In-process inspection stations are built into the line and the inspector is able
to return faulty work via the system to the operator concerned.
● Productivity: This is very high because the operator handles the garment once only for
a number of operations, instead of once for each operation.
● Throughput time: As there are so few garments on the line throughput time is
extremely short, which is the objective of this system.
● Layout: A typical unit would have eight workstations arranged around the transport
system.
There is no doubt that this type of system is one of the best answers to the garment production
revolution, which is becoming more apparent every day. Fashion changes are becoming more
frequent and as a consequence order lots are proportionately smaller. A production system,
which enables changeovers to be made in the minimum of time is ideally suited to this new and
dynamic situation.

Figure 13: layout of Quick Response

1.5. Evaluation of Production Systems

Any production system has four primary factors, which make up the system.
Total Production Time = Processing Time + Transportation Time + Temporary Storage
Time + Inspection Time
Processing time is the sum total of working time of all operations involved in manufacture of
a garment. Transportation time involves the time taken to transport semi-finished or finished
garments from one department to another or from one operation/machine to another.
Temporary storage time is time during which the garment/bundle is idle as it waits for next
operation or for completion of certain parts. Inspection time is time taken for inspecting semi-
finished garments for any defects during manufacturing or inspecting fully finished garments
before packing.
The main aim of any production system is to achieve minimum possible total production time.
This automatically reduces in-process inventory and its cost. The sub-assembly system reduces
temporary storage time to zero by combining temporary storage time with transportation
time.