Developing Better Products

through Natural Chemistry

Penta Manufacturing Company is Family Owned and Operated for Over 30 Years.
Here is a partial listing of our Naturally derived flavor & fragrance ingredients.
All items are Food Grade Kosher & Organic Compliant.

■■2-Amyl Furan ■■2,6- ■■Ethyl Oleate Monooleate ■■Methyl Cinnamate ■■Nootkatone

■■Anethole Dimethoxyphenol ■■Ethyl Pelargonate ■■Glyceryl ■■2-Methyl-3- ■■2,4-Octadienal
■■P-Anisic Acid ■■Dimethyl ■■Ethyl Propionate Monostearate Furanthiol ■■1-Octen-3-ol
■■Anisyl Alcohol Anthranilate ■■3-Ethyl Pyridine ■■2-Heptanol ■■Methyl Heptyl ■■Octyl Acetate
■■Benzaldehyde ■■2,5-Dimethyl- ■■Ethyl Vinyl Ketone ■■Gamma- Ketone ■■Octyl Alcohol
■■Benzyl Acetate 4-Ethoxy-3(2H) ■■Farnesol Hexalactone ■■Methyl Hexyl ■■Alpha-
■■Benzyl Propionate Furanone ■■D-Fenchone ■■TRANS-2-HEXE- Ketone Phellandrene
■■N-Butyl Acetate ■■2,3-Dimethyl- ■■Fenchyl Alcohol NYL BUTYRATE ■■Methyl Isobutyl ■■2-Phenylethyl-
■■N-Butyl Alcohol 5-Ethyl Pyrazine ■■Ferulic Acid ■■Alpha-Ionone Ketone amine
■■N-Butyraldehyde ■■4,5-Dimethyl- ■■Formic Acid ■■Beta-Ionone ■■Methyl Mercaptan ■■Phenyl Ethyl
■■Beta- 2-Ethyl-3- ■■Furfural ■■Linalool ■■Methyl-2- Butyrate
Caryophyllene Thiazoline ■■Furfuryl Acetate ■■Linalool Oxide Methyl Butyrate ■■Alpha-Pinene
■■Cetyl Alcohol ■■2,5-Dimethyl- ■■Furfuryl Alcohol ■■Linalyl Acetate ■■Methyl-2-Methyl- ■■2,3,5,6-Tetramethyl
■■1,4-Cineol 3-(2H) Furanone ■■2-Furfurylidene ■■Linalayl 3-Furyl Disulfide Pyrazine
■■Cinnamic Acid ■■2,5-Dimethyl-3- Butyraldehyde Isobutyrate ■■Methyl- ■■Thaumatin
■■3-Hexanone Furanthiol ■■Furfuryl Isovalerate ■■Maltol 3-(Methylthio) ■■2-Thienyl
■■Cis-3-Hexenal ■■2,5-Dimethyl ■■Furfuryl Propionate ■■Maltol Isobutyrate Propionate Mercaptan
■■Cis-3-Hexenyl Pyrazine ■■Furfuryl ■■Melonal ■■Methyl Nonyl ■■O-Thiocresol
Isobutyrate ■■Dimethyl Sulfide Thioacetate ■■Methional Ketone ■■Thioterpenes
■■Cis-3-Hexenyl- ■■Dimethyl Trisulfide ■■Furfuryl ■■Methionol ■■Methyl Salicylate ■■4-Thujanol
2-Methyl Butyrate ■■Ethyl Acetate Thiopropionate ■■Methyl Acetate ■■Methyl ■■P-Tolylaldehyde
■■Cis-3-Hexenyl ■■Ethyl Acrylate ■■Geraniol ■■Methyl Thiobutyrate ■■Delta-
Valerate ■■Ethyl Amyl Ketone ■■Geranyl Acetate Anthranilate ■■3-Methyl Valeric Tridecalactone
■■Citronellyl Acetate ■■Ethyl Benzoate ■■Geranyl Acetone ■■Methyl Butyrate Acid ■■Trimethylamine
■■Citronellyl ■■Ethyl Cinnamate ■■Geranyl Butyrate ■■2-Methyl Butyl ■■Myristic Acid
Propionate ■■Ethyl Crotonate ■■Geranyl Formate Acetate ■■Naringen
■■2,3-Diethyl- ■■Ethyl-3-Mercapto- ■■L-Glutamic Acid ■■Methyl Caprate ■■Neryl Acetate
5-Methyl Pyrazine propionate ■■Glycerine ■■Methyl Caprylate ■■2-Nonanol
■■Difurfuryl Disulfide ■■Ethyl Myristate ■■Glyceryl ■■Methyl Chavicol ■■Delta-Nonalactone
For a complete list of all our natural, natural identical & synthetic ingredients
visit us at our web: www.pentamfg.com

Penta Manufacturing Company

A Division of Penta International Corporation

50 Okner Parkway, Livingston, New Jersey 07039-1604 Phone: (973) 740-2300 Fax: (973) 740-1839
E-Mail: sales@pentamfg.com Web: www.pentamfg.com

PF1406_Penta.indd 1 4/1/19 10:27 AM

 May 2019 | Vol. 44 no. 5
www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

Cinnamyl Acetate

Innovations in Fine
Fragrance & Vanilla
Vanillin Authentication

Rose Oil Socio-Economic Report

PF1905_cover.indd 1 4/8/19 2:53 PM

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PF Full Page.indd 1 3/20/19 9:14 AM
 CONTENTS VOL. 44 NO. 5 | MAY 2019

50 FLAVOR
20 Flavor Bites: Cinnamyl Acetate
By John Wright
While hardly effective as the main driver of a flavor, this
ingredient can play an important secondary role in many
flavors, adding depth and rounding out angular profiles.

60 Organoleptic Characteristics of Flavor Materials

By Judith Michalski
This month’s column features discussions cognac oil
white, dimethyl sulfoxide, trimethyl pyrazine, 2-ethyl-6-
methylpyrazine and more.

24 FRAGRANCE
24 Forward Thinking: Fragrances Spring Forward, Part 1
By Amy Marks-McGee
Current fine fragrance activity is being driven by experiential
retailers, custom fragrance technology, natural fragrances,
gender-fluid launches, hero ingredients, eye-catching
packaging, book releases and beverages using scents to
enhance the olfactory experience.

DE1 Forward Thinking: Enhanced Scent Experiences, Part 2

By Amy Marks-McGee
Part 2 explores new entries into the fragrance category

30
with an emphasis on natural ingredients, multisensory
experiences and more.
Visit perfumerflavorist.com/DE for your Digital Edition.

44 Fragrance Futurology: 10 Ways Farm-to-Table Will

Impact Perfume’s Next Decade
By Eddie Bulliqi
“Farm-to-bottle” is the obvious evolution of today’s global
appetite for perfumery naturals. Watch out for some of the
supply chain subtleties so you don’t get left behind.

56 The Global Fragrances Market – Bringing Fragrances

Closer to Consumers
By Clotilde Drapé
The demand for premium fragrances has bright days ahead,

56
but traditional brands (especially luxury designer brands)
will need to adapt to face the growing competition from
niche and “indie” players.

DE6 Open Sourcing Smell Culture: Past and Future Models

for Perfumery
By Saskia Wilson-Brown
Like the media industry, the perfume business is in a moment
of transition – one with increasing democratization by
consumers and independent creators.
Visit perfumerflavorist.com/DE for your Digital Edition.

2 Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_TOC-Masthead_fcx.indd 2 4/8/19 2:58 PM

 CUSTOMER SERVICE WITH
THE

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 44
EDITORIAL
Editor in Chief Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com
Managing Editor Deniz Ataman | 1-630-344-6070/dataman@allured.com
Assistant Editor Ryan Daily | 1-630-344-6058/rdaily@allured.com
News Editor Eden Stuart | 1-630-344-6053/estuart@allured.com

ADVERTISING SALES
Associate Publisher Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com
Advertising Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com

AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
Marketing Specialist Bianca Esposito
Customer Service 1-847-559-7554/customerservice@perfumerflavorist.com

DESIGN
Design Manager Kim Fry

INGREDIENTS Senior Graphic Designer

Production Manager
Hon Bannapradist
Bryan Crowe

8 Product Roundup: Vanilla & Gourmand CORPORATE

30 Authentication of a Flavoring Substance: The Partner & CEO
Partner & President
George Fox
Janet Ludwig
Vanillin Case CFO Rich Winters
By Corine Cochennec and Corinne Duffy Director of Events Maria Prior
As vanilla remains a popular taste and scent around Digital Products Director Rose Southard
the world, the global vanillin market is responding Executive Assistant Maria Romero
to increasing demands for naturals, while also
addressing regulatory and adulteration issues.

50 Rose Oils: History and Socio-Economic Impact OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS

Flavorcon
By Kim Bleimann
Allured Business Media World Perfumery Congress
The author examines the socio-economic impact of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine
1-630-653-2155 • fax 1-630-653-2192
rose oil production and how it supports farmers in Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference
336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A
Turkey, Bulgaria and other countries. Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition
Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA
Global Cosmetic Industry magazine
www.Allured.com
D E12 A Scent of New Jersey Lavender Beauty Accelerate
Skin Inc. magazine
By Felix Buccellato Face & Body Midwest spa expo and conference
Coveted for its medicinal, aromatic and therapeutic Face & Body Northern California spa expo and conference
properties, lavender is known for its clean and Face & Body Southeast spa expo and conference
medicinal aroma due to small amounts of camphor
and eucalyptol. A closer look at fresh lavender
flowers reveals some interesting details about the
constituents between leaves and flowers.
Visit perfumerflavorist.com/DE for your Digital SUBSCRIPTIONS
Edition. Perfumer & Flavorist magazine (ISSN 0272-2666) is published monthly by Allured Business Media.
Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.PerfumerFlavorist.com/subscribe
For both the US and internationally, telephone: 1-847-559-7554

INDUSTRY (9 AM-5 PM Central, Mon-Fri) | Fax: 1-847-291-4816

E-mail: customerservice@perfumerflavorist.com
Address: Perfumer & Flavorist, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009

6 Editor’s Note: Addressing Market Fluctuations Periodicals Postage paid at Carol Stream, Illinois, and additional mailing offices.
Print subscriptions are free to qualified individuals in the United States.

12 Industry: News and Analysis Print subscriptions are not available to those living internationally.
POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Perfumer & Flavorist, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009

64 Worldwide Sources / Ad Index Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective.
Missing issues: Claims for missing issues must be made within three months of the date of issue.
Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain
Want to report a new development at your company? technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy
of the information within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all
Send the details to: liability for any such inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documentation referred to within
Perfumer & Flavorist magazine or affiliated with this publication.
336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A Copyright 2019: Authorization to photocopy articles and news is granted by Allured Business Media, provided that the
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21 Congress St., Salem, MA 01970—Publication No. 0272-2666/01/$6.
fax: 1-630-653-2192 • e-mail: perfumer@allured.com

4 Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

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PF Full Page.indd 1 3/25/19 3:09 PM
 Editor’s Note

Addressing Market Fluctuations

T
his issue is all about fine fragrance and
vanilla. Why are they placed together?
Ever since gourmand became a fragrance
category, vanilla was its shining star, not
to mention vanilla still holds the number one spot
as the most popular flavor globally. So throughout
these print and digital pages, we give you a little
taste of both categories.

DENIZ ATAMAN Mass & Premium Grow

Managing Editor The fine fragrance market has fluctuated over
dataman@allured.com the last six years (excluding 2018). According to
Euromonitor, the global fragrance segment (which
includes mass and premium) reached its peak in
P&F Magazine 2013 at $51,434.0 million before dipping in 2016
at $46,194.6 million. In 2017, these numbers began to rise again with sales at
Editorial Advisory Board $49,383.3. Turn to page 56 for a more in-depth analysis of the global fragrance
market in Euromonitor’s report.
Niche brands continue to be acquired by larger groups in order to reach a
CARLOS BENAÏM wider audience who are looking for customizable products driven by authentic
Master Perfumer, Vice President story telling and natural ingredients. The segment is expected to grow at a
International Flavors and Fragrances CAGR rate of 6.2% between 2018-2023a. Amy Marks-McGee explores beauty
and fragrance trends on page 24. But there’s also another story here when it
PATRICK DUNPHY, PH.D.
comes to niche/mass dynamic. How can the industry work together to protect
Independent Vanilla and
its intellectual property amidst an expanding marketplace? Saskia Wilson-
Flavor Consultant
Brown elucidates in her op-ed in the digital edition (page DE6).
MATTHIAS GUENTERT, PH.D.
Independent Flavor and Food Authenticating Vanilla
Consultant Despite its popularity and adoration among consumers around the world,
the vanilla market is volatile to say the least. Subject to strict regulations, crop
JUDITH MICHALSKI theft, adulteration, immature beans and a consistently burgeoning demand,
Senior Flavorist the F&F industry looks for solutions to establish a more consistent and cost-
abelei Flavors effective supply chain.
Natural sources to derive vanillin continue to be an area of significant inter-
JOHN WRIGHT est in addressing authenticity and traceability from food manufacturers and
Independent Flavorist and Author consumers, as well as regulatory compliance. This issue, we explore authenti-
cation methods using radiocarbon analysis (page 30) in order to distinguish
JOHN CAVALLO, PH.D. between natural and synthetic routes.
Senior Vice President of Technology Will you be in Paris for SIMPPAR? Perfumer & Flavorist’s May issue will also
& Commercial Development, be present during SIMPPAR in Paris, June 5-6, 2019. I look forward to seeing
Citromax
you at the P&F booth and discovering the latest in fragrance materials and
ingredients. And I hope you enjoy this issue.

With warmth from Brooklyn,

Deniz Ataman
Managing Editor

a Research and Markets report: Global Fragrance and Perfume Market 2018-2023

Editor’s Note: We’d like to address an error printed in the March 2019 article
“Bio-Based Butanol as a Solvent for Essential Oil Extractions.” In the first
column of T-8, the data for “Solvents” and “Hexanes” were misprinted. Please refer
to the digital edition for the correct table. We regret the error.

6 Editor’s Note Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

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 Product Roundup [Raw Materials, Equipment & Services]

Vanilla & Gourmand

Filbertone
Symrise AG
www.symrise.com
Filbertone - the scent you can taste. It is a creative
high impact option for your fragrance creations.
Besides enriching fruity notes, building complexity
in citrus, adding finesse to rose, sandalwood
and gourmand concepts, Filbertone implements
naturalness, vividness and overall volume.

Anisyl Formate
Natural Advantage
Vanilla Pure Jungle Essence™
www.natadv.com
Mane
Natural Advantage introduces natural anisyl www.mane.com
formate (FEMA# 2101, CAS# 122-91-8). Anisyl
Mane’s Vanilla Pure Jungle Essence™ is obtained through
formate is found in anise seed, honey, tomato
a supercritical gas extraction enabling to seize the complete
and vanilla. The taste of this product can be
organoleptic profile at the heart of the raw material. Powerful and
described as sweet, fruity and vanilla-like. It
textured, this extract has captured the unique fresh ripe vanilla
is reminiscent of cured vanilla beans with an
bean effect characterized by a slightly animalic spicy background.
exotic floral background. Flavor uses for anisyl
formate include chocolate, honey, peach,
tea and vanilla. Recommended use level:
0.2-10ppm as consumed. EU and US natural,
kosher, non-GMO, vegetarian.

4-Methyl-5-beta-hydroxyethyl thiazole
Shanghai Buychemi Trade Co., Ltd.
www.buychemi.com
Nuezate
Bedoukian Research
This synthetic ingredient has a thiazole, chemical odor, www.bedoukian.com
which can be used in a range of meat, bean and
Nuezate (BRI 728) is a brand-new, impressively
Vanillin acetate, ≥98%, FG milk flavors.
powerful ingredient offering a fresh black walnut,
MilliporeSigma
woody character wrapped in luxurious fur notes
www.sigmaaldrich.com
accompanied by a subtle fruity odor. An excellent
FEMA# 3108 is sweet, powdery, vanilla, creamy material used to enhance gourmand and fougere
and beany with deep marshmallow nuances. Our types – adding complexity, depth and a touch of
product is certified food grade, halal and kosher. elegance to all fragrance compositions.

8 Product Roundup Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

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PF Full Page.indd 1 4/1/19 10:18 AM
 Industry

INDUSTRY NEWS

Symrise Releases 2018 Financial Results

Symrise AG has released its 2018 financial
results, which includes yearly sales totaling e3,154
million – a 5.3% increase from 2017 numbers of
e2,996 million.
In 2018, the company experienced strong demand
across all segments and regions and achieved an
organic growth rate of 8.8%. Taking into account
the acquisition of Cobell and Citratus and exchange
rates, the group sales were up 5.3%. For the year, the
group achieved earnings before interest, taxes, depre-
ciation and amortization (EBITDA) of e631 million,
a slight increase from 2017’s results of e630 million.
Net income for the group increased by 1.9% to e275
million from e270 million in 2017. Profitability
remained healthy and within the target corridor of
19-22%, with an EBITDA of 20%.
While the company experienced growth across
segments and regions, the growth driver at the
regional level was Latin America with an organic
growth rate of 16.2%. EAME and North America
regions registered a 6.4% and 6.1% organic rate,
respectively. In Asia Pacific regions, the company
saw an organic growth rate of 12.4%, while emerging
markets saw growth at 11.7%.

Segment Breakdown
Per segment, its scent and care segment saw sales was at e244 million, slightly higher than 2017’s
increase to e1,324 million with an organic growth numbers of e243 million. Influenced by the lower
rate of 8.9%. This segment posted a 4.8%, despite profitability of the Cobell business and higher raw
incurring costs from the Citratus acquisition and material costs, the EBITDA margin lowered to 20.5%
currency effects. Particularly strong growth was from 22% in 2017.
seen in its cosmetic ingredients division, which saw In its nutrition business, organic sales grew by
double-digit organic growth. Strong interest was 7.4% to e639 million from 2017 numbers of e631
seen in China, Brazil and Japan markets. Symrise’s million. Including portfolio and currency effects,
aroma molecules and fragrance division also per- the segment grew by 1.2% with particularly strong
formed well with strong demand for menthol for fine growth in its pet food application area. For the year,
fragrance and personal care products. The segments the segment achieved an EBITDA of e132 million, a
EBITDA increased to e254 million, as opposed to decrease from e139 million in 2017. The decline in
e248 million in 2017. The EBITDA margin was earnings was attributed to investment in its Diana
19.2% (19.6% in 2017) and was mainly caused by Food location in the United States and a lower con-
higher raw material costs, especially in perfumery tribution to earning from Probi due to a temporary
raw materials. inventory decrease by a major customer in the first
For the flavor segment, the company saw strong half of the year (sales returned to normal in the third
organic growth at 9.5% with sales increasing to quarter). Despite these effects, the EBITDA margin
e1,191 million, up from e1,102 million in 2017. was 20.7%, lower than 2017’s numbers of 22.1%.
Taking into account currency effects and the acquisi-
tion of Cobell, the segment grew by 8.1%. All the Planning for 2019 and Beyond
regions and application areas contributed to the Looking ahead to 2019, the group aims to exceed
positive growth, including double-digit growth in the overall growth rates in the relevant market.
EAME regions and overall growth in sweets and bev- Symrise is targeting an EBITDA margin of 20%,
erage products. The EBITDA for the flavor segment despite an anticipated economic slowdown and

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.

10 Industry Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

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PF Full Page.indd 1 4/1/19 10:18 AM
 Industry

ongoing volatility in exchange rates and tight to counteract all of the headwinds caused by high
markets for raw materials. By 2025, the company raw material prices and negative currency effects,
aims to increase sales to around e5.5-6.0 billion we still operated with a healthy profitab­ility. We
with an annual organic growth rate of 5-7%. To want our shareholders to participate in this success.
achieve these goals, the group will take advantage At the annual general meeting, the executive board
of megatrends and expand its portfolio to adjacent, and supervisory board will propose a dividend
high-margin applications like naturals, sustainable increase to e0.​90 per share for the fiscal year 2018,”
product solution and digital business processes. said Heinz-Jürgen Bertram, CEO of Symrise AG.
“In 2018 we seamlessly continued our success “Despite the anticipated economic slowdown, we
story. Symrise again grew profitably and outper- have made a confident start to the new fiscal year.
formed the market. We identified and successfully We have substantiated our long-term ambition with
capitalized on growth opportunities in every busi- the updated forecast. It extends into the year 2025
ness segment. We also invested in future growth and and provides for a strong increase in sales with
added to our capacity. Although we were not able further improved profitab­ility.

Givaudan Donates $3.5 Million to Protect Citrus Collection

Givaudan has donated $3.5 million to the “A significant part of our latest gift to UCR will
University of California, Riverside (UCR) in support protect the collection from greening – today’s main
of its Citrus Variety Collection. challenge to citrus,” said Dawn Streich, Givaudan’s
The collection faces the impending threat of citrus global citrus product manager.
greening disease, also known as Huanglon­gbing, or For a 10-year period, the collection will be
HLB. The gift will fund a 2.​8-acre protective-screened known as the Givaudan Citrus Variety Collection at
structure for new trees, as well as back-up collections. the University of California, Riverside. In 2011, a
Established more than 100 years ago, the UCR Citrus Givaudan gift created the Givaudan Citrus Variety
Valley Collection includes two trees of around 1,000 Collection Endowed Chair; this new gift will also
types of citrus, and occupies 22.​3 acres on the UCR add to that endowment.
campus along with two smaller, remote sites.

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.

12 Industry Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_Industry_fcx.indd 12 4/8/19 3:04 PM

 IFF’s Frutarom Division Acquires Leagel

International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. (IFF) has “The purchase of the stake in Leagel aligns well
announced that its Frutarom division has completed with our strategic acquisition in 2017 of SDFLC
the acquisition of a 70% stake in Leagel S.r.l. (Leagel), a Brasil Indústria E Comércio Ltda. (SDFLC), a top
leading producer of ice cream and gelato ingredients in Brazilian producer of taste solutions for ice creams
Europe. and desserts,” said Amos Anatot, president of IFF’s
Leagel’s portfolio includes a range of artisanal ingre- Frutarom division. “We see great opportunities to
dients and equipment for gelato and ice cream retailers. combine these companies and create a global plat-
Currently, the company employees 61 people and serves form for our ice cream ingredients business, expand
1600 direct customers and distributors across 25 coun- our geographic reach and leverage cross-selling
tries in Europe. IFF also retains the option to acquire the opportunities.”
remaining stake in Leagel, exercised after three years.

13

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 Industry

PEOPLE NEWS

Olivier Cresp Joins the Academia Del Perfume

Firmenich master perfumer Olivier 2006. His industry recognition includes
Cresp has been inducted into the Academia The Fragrance Foundation’s Lifetime
Del Perfume Foundation of Spain. Achievement Award (2018) and Chevalier
Cresp is the 16th fragrance industry des Arts et des Lettres from the French
professional to receive the honor. Known Minister of Culture in 2012.
for fragrances including Angel by Thierry The Academia Del Perfume is a
Mugler and Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue, Spanish organization of fragrance indus-
Cresp received the organiza­tion’s Prestige try professi­onals. Each year it honors
Fragrance of the Year award in 2017 for three leading cultural figures—including
Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris. one perfumer—and organizes industry
Joining Firmenich in 1992 Cresp was events, including the Fragrance Awards.
awarded the title master perfumer in

Symrise Perfumery School Graduates 7 Fragrance Creators

School is out for seven perfume students.
Symrise has announced the graduation of seven
students from the company’s perfumery school.

A Perfumer’s Education
As part of the four or five-year programs,
students studied at various Symrise Perfumery
School locations around the globe and learned
the basics of perfumery. They gained a compre-
hensive knowledge of various techniques and
chemical processes used to extract fragrance
substances and conducted intensive raw mate-
rial studies. The first two years of study were
conducted in Holzminden, Germany and were
complemented by assignments in Symrise
creative centers in Europe, Brazil, Mexico,
Shanghai and the United States. individual style and ability to use raw materials from
“During their study abroad, our students gain the Symrise palette.
experience and therefore understanding of the After each student passed the final exam, they
particular characte­ristics of global markets, consum- received a certificate on Jan. 17, 2019, for the
ers and cultures,” said Béatrice Favre-Bulle, senior completion of their studies and will continue their
VP perfumery excellence and sustaina­bility, global work at their current location. From Symrise’s five-
fragrances and ingredients management, scent and year Perfumery School program, Leslie Gauthier,
care division at Symrise. “These experiences help Marine Ipert, Jamie Tan Yuping, Emma Yao Wie and
them to create fragrances that meet the preferences Suthathip Thedvich­ienchai graduated, while Laure
of modern consumers and especially millennials.” Breysse and Suzy Le Helley graduated from the com-
pany’s four-year Global Fragrances and Ingredients
Passing the Final Exam Management (GFIM) program.
As a capstone project, the students were required Commenting on the qualities of a good perfumer,
to make one soap, one hair rinse and one fabric Achim Daub, president scent and care at Symrise
softener fragrance with jasmine, lily of the valley said: “A good perfumer sets trends with his or her
and ylang-ylang blossoms and present a final own fragrance creations. Our graduates gain this
independent research thesis. A panel of experts then ability by studying at the industry-renowned Symrise
reviewed the fragrances and theses for creativity, Perfumery School.”

14 Industry Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_Industry_fcx.indd 14 4/8/19 3:04 PM

PF_Full Page ad.indd 1 4/3/18 9:21 AM
 Industry

EVENT COVERAGE

Cracking Open the Latest in RTD Beverages at Natural

Products Expo West
BY RYAN DAILY, Assistant Editor, Perfumer & Flavorist

C
lean, functional and natural are
the future. This was no more
apparent than on the show floor
of the Natural Products Expo
West (Expo West); on Mar. 5-9,
2019, where a multitude of beverage brands
showcased the latest in natural hydration.
While Perfumer & Flavorist was unable to
stop by every booth, we were able to sample
some of the latest beverage and highlighted
some of the trends that we saw forming.

Inspired by CBD and Hops

One area of increasing interest for consum-
ers is the use of CBD products for wellness
and health. At the show, Acme Naturals,
LLC featured its Tree Below Zero range of
functional CBD sparkling beverages. The
line of sparkling juices includes cranberry
ginger, mandarin blood orange and blueberry
raspberry pomegranate flavors. Each product
is formulated with 25 mg of hemp oil extract
and natural flavors. Other CBD beverage
brands at the show included Honeydrop
Beverages with their line of CBD lemonades,
and Vita Coco with it CBD infused sparkling
coconut water. For the flavorist or product
developer, the formulation of CBD or hemp
beverages requires extra consider­ations,
including an evolving regulatory landscape.
While CBD and hemp have gained a lot
of attention for its wellness uses and novelty,
one water brand is trying to shine a light on one of walnut and hazelnut milk. While its peanut with
hemp’s relatives – hops. H2OPS Sparkling Hop Water chocolate milk contains natural flavors, most are
is a craft-brewed water, created with Yakima Valley simply formulated with water and the nut.
hops. Containing no calories, alcohol content or While most of the attention in non-dairy milks
compounded flavors, the sparkling water has a subtle have been nut-focused, Swedish brand Oatly is
“grapefruit, lemon, lime, pine, blueberry, mint and staking its future in oats. Currently, the brand offers
earthy spice” flavor, according to the brand’s website. a line of oat-based milks, including an original, low-
fat, a chocolate and a barista edition. In addition to
Non-dairy Milks Diversify the brand’s milk products, it offers an orange mango
Most of the first commercially available non-dairy and strawberry elderflower oat drink and a drinkable
milks were either almond or soy based. Now, the yogurt in lemon elderflower and strawberry flavors,
market has diversified to include a range of different each formulated with natural flavors.
nuts and base ingredients. One example is Elmhurst
Milked, a clean label and vegan plant-based milk Sipping to Sleep
brand. Currently, its line of products includes a One of the most popular categories of functional
peanut (chocolate and original), cashew, almond, beverages are energy drinks. Beverage brand Hiball

16 Industry Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_Industry_fcx.indd 16 4/8/19 3:04 PM

 Energy featured a range of its energy drinks and
sparkling waters. Hiball offers sparkling energy
waters in grapefruit, lemon lime and wildberry, each
formulated with natural flavors and zero sugars.
Additionally, the brand showcased its line of organic
energy drinks in black cherry, ruby red and pome-
granate acai flavors, also formulated with natural
flavors. Other energy drink brands that exhibited
included Dark Dog Organic and Runa.
On the opposite end of the functional spectrum
were beverages that assisted with sleep. One of
the leaders in this space is Som with its RTD sleep
formula available in either original or unsweetened
version, each with natural flavors. Formulated with
ingredients to relax and support sleep, the bever-
age is consumed 30 minutes before bed. Similarly,
beverage brand Snoooze offers a natural sleep drink
in either regular or strong, each formulated with
natural flavors.
While most of the attention has been on CBD and hemp products, H2OPS
A Natural Opportunity Sparkling Hop Water is infused with a relative of hemp – hops.

Whether it’s a non-dairy milk drink or the latest

CBD juice, natural continues to be the norm. natural flavor market is expected to grow by a CAGR
According to a Wakefield Research survey of 1,000 5.2%, and the United States market is worth $3,720
U.S. adults, 53% said that they are more motivated to million. Outside the United States, the Chinese
purchase a product with a natural claim. The same natural flavor market is worth $1,540 million and the
survey showed that consumers are also concerned Japanese market is worth $840 million. Like their
about the ingredients in their products. Of the people U.S. counterparts, Chinese consumers are also inter-
surveyed, 51% said that they would be swayed to buy ested in eco-friendly and sustainable products with
a product with no preservatives and 57% of adults 7 in 10 seeking out claims and logos on the front
65 and older are concerned with high fructose corn of products. With this global attention and shift in
syrup in their diets. consumer demand, the beverage business should see
As consumers continue to seek out natural prod- healthy growth, spurred by natural claims, product
ucts, this has opened an opportunity for the natural innovation and unique offerings.
flavor market. According to Food Trending data, the

17

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 Industry

What’s Clean in Scent at Natural Products Expo West 2019?

BY RYAN DAILY, Assistant Editor, Perfumer & Flavorist

F
rom natural foods and beverages to floor cleaning concentrates. Currently, the all-
innovations in home and air care, the purpose cleaner and the air and fabric freshener
Natural Products Expo West (Expo West) are available in lemongrass and geranium scents,
featured over 3,500 exhibitors from while the floor cleaner concentrate is available in
across the supply chain. Taking place on lavender and lemongrass.
Mar. 5-9, 2019, in Anaheim, California, over 86,000 Operating in the same category, J.R. Watkins
attendees tasted, sampled and sniffed their way featured its range of products including its room
through the show floor—exploring the latest in the fresheners, all-purpose cleaner, all-purpose wipes
world of naturals. and candles with its recently redesigned brand-
While Perfumer & Flavorist didn’t have time to ing. Its line of all-purpose cleaners come in lemon,
stop by every booth or explore every product cat- lavender, aloe and green tea, grapefruit, ocean breeze
egory, here are some of the products and trends we and coconut scents, while its room fresheners come
saw innovating the air care, home care and personal in those scents plus neroli and thyme, white pine
care markets. and vanilla fig. Additionally, the brand offers scented,
moistened all-purpose wipes in lemon and aloe and
Freshening Up the Home With Natural Scents green tea scents.
While probiotics have been a hot topic in the Strictly operating in the air care segment, the
skin care market, the idea of probiotic cleaning “before you go” brand, Poo-Pourri, featured its range
and home products is a new one. At Expo West, of bathroom aromatherapy products. The product
Counter Culture featured its latest line of probiotic is used by first spraying it into the toilet bowl before
all-purpose cleaners, air and fabric fresheners and use, which creates a film on the surface of the water

18 Industry Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_Industry_fcx.indd 18 4/8/19 3:04 PM

 that traps odors under it. The brand featured some body cream, body wash, shampoo and conditioner,
of its popular scents including Royal Flush (eucalyp- available in eucalyptus and peppermint, lavender
tus and spearmint), Ship Happens (coconut, freesia and citrus vanilla scents. Additionally, the scents are
and citrus), Potty Potion (rosemary, tea tree and available in a bath bomb or sea salt/seaweed bath
lavender) and others. mix. Though these products are formulated with
Other home and air care brands that exhibited at essential oils and not compounded fragrances, it
Expo West included Mrs. Meyers, method and The shows a potential future for personal care product.
Honest Company. With less traditional bases, it provided additional
formulation challenges for perfumers creating scents
A Scent of Personal Care in this product category.
Air and home care weren’t the only scented Other personal care brands that exhibited at the
products to be shown at Expo West. Personal care event include Acure, Burt’s Bees, Tom’s of Maine and
products were featured among many of the booths, Artnaturals.
including at Pacifica’s booth. The company offers
a line of scented facial masks including its Stress Market Drivers in Home and Personal Care
Rehab Coconut & Caffeine, Super Green Detox While this was just a small sample of all the prod-
Kale & Charcoal, Pollution Fight Blue Algae Urban ucts on display, it shows strong interest and growth
Defense and Mattify Prep Pineapple and Hyaluronic in the air care, home care and personal care markets.
facial masks. Additionally, the brand featured its According to a Grand View Research report, the
Pineapple Quench Oil-Free Water Serum, Berry U.S. personal care market; which includes skin care,
Matcha Recharge Face Lotion and its Coconut Milk hair, personal hygiene, makeup and fragrances, was
Cream to Foam Face Wash. Both product lines are valued at $134.26 billion in 2016 and is expected to
formulated with natural fragrances. grow at a CAGR of 4.58% from 2018-2025. Much of
Similarly, Schmidt’s Naturals featured its range of the recent growth is attributed to product launches
natural body washes, deodorants and bar soaps at its with natural and botanical ingredients.
booth. The brand currently offers a range of deodor- Strong growth is also being seen in the air care
ant sticks in rose and vanilla, bergamot and lime, and home care markets. According to a Grand View
lily of the valley, jasmine tea, coconut pineapple, Research report, the U.S. air freshener market was
geranium and lavender scents, each formulated with worth $1.62 billion in 2016 and is expected to reg-
natural fragrances. The brand also provides ylang- ister a CAGR of 3.4% from the period of 2015-2025.
ylang and calendula, bergamot and lime, rose and In terms of product formats, the traditional spray or
vanilla and lavender and sage soaps and a cedarwood aerosol air fresheners comprised the majority of the
and juniper body wash, formulated with essential market. Similarly, the home care market is expected
oils and/or natural fragrances. to see growth and expansion. According to a Mordor
A personal care trend coming out of Expo West Intelligence report, the global home care market
was the use of interesting or nontradi­tional base is expected to grow 3.8% from 2019 – 2024, due to
ingredients. The Seawood Bath Co. featured its range expansion in India, China and Argentina markets.
of face, body, hair and bath care products, created With these market indicators and the products
with its key ingredient bladderwrack seaweed. Its displayed at Expo West, each segment should see
line of body care and hair care products include a expansion, along with fresh scents and innovation.

19

PF1905_Industry_fcx.indd 19 4/8/19 3:04 PM

 Flavor Bites: Cinnamyl
Acetate
While hardly effective as the main driver of a flavor, this
ingredient can play an important secondary role in many
flavors, adding depth and rounding out angular profiles.

C
BY JOHN WRIGHT innamyl acetate, 3-phenyl prop-2-enyl acetate, (FEMA# 2293,
johnwrightflavorist@gmail.com CAS# 103-54-8) has a very attractive, fruity, balsamic aroma.
This ingredient is pleasant and, in many ways, unobtrusive. It
is very hard to imagine it in the driving seat of a flavor, but it
plays an important secondary role in many flavors, rounding
out angular profiles and adding depth. It is particularly effective when used
in combination with one of the two key cinnamates: methyl cinnamate
and ethyl cinnamate. Often methyl cinnamate is the dominant member
of this partnership. This combination works well, especially in guava and
strawberry flavors, but an even more effective combination is cinnamyl
acetate and ethyl cinnamate.

Note that the dose rates given throughout this article are the levels
suggested for use in flavors intended to be dosed at 0.05% in ready-to-drink
beverages or in a simple bouillon.

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.

20 Flavors Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_Wright_fcx.indd 20 4/8/19 3:05 PM

 Brown Flavors
Caramel: Cinnamyl acetate adds very attractive
depth to caramel, toffee and butterscotch flavors at
levels in the region of 100 ppm. Caramel flavors with
French style vanilla components can accommodate
double this level.
Cinnamon: Cinnamon flavors are the closest
cinnamyl acetate gets to playing a lead role but, even
here, its main function is to take the edge off cinna-
maldehyde. A reasonable starting point is 2,000 ppm.
Ginger: Ginger flavors are inevitably complex
and might seem in no need of extra complexity.
Many notes are bright hydrocarbons and a hint
of this ingredient, around 50 ppm, softens and
deepens the taste.
Honey: Honey flavors cover a very wide range of
profiles. A reasonable starting point is 200 ppm and
works well in any floral profile. Heavier honey flavors, adjunct to either of these chemicals at around
such as clover, can benefit from 500 ppm or more. 500 ppm.
Molasses: Molasses and brown sugar flavors can Lychee: It might be hard to imagine how 10 ppm
easily veer towards maple. Just a modest addi- of this ingredient could have any noticeable effect,
tion of cinnamyl acetate can prevent this effect. but lychee is a delicate profile and 10 ppm offsets the
An ideal level of addition in molasses flavors is 50 rose notes nicely
ppm. Slightly lower levels are better in brown sugar Melon: The effect of cinnamyl acetate in melon
flavors, nearer 30 ppm. flavors is quite different. Several popular melon
Vanilla: Vanilla bean style flavors benefit from a flavor ingredients can generate quite harsh profiles
touch of cinnamyl acetate, around 50 ppm. Some and 100 ppm of cinnamyl acetate allows them to
European style vanilla flavors have a distinct bal- retain their impact but softens the harsh edges.
samic profile and much higher levels, nearer 500 Passionfruit: Cinnamyl acetate at 20 ppm
ppm, are very effective. deepens passionfruit flavors and softens the domi-
nant fruity and sulfury notes. The effect is much
Tropical Fruit Flavors more obvious on taste, with added realism.
Banana: Cinnamyl acetate tempers the fruity Pineapple: The same effect, and the same 20
notes in banana flavors and also softens the clove ppm level of addition, works equally well in pine-
character. Very little is needed to achieve these apple flavors. It is effective in both fresh and canned
effects, 20 ppm is more than sufficient. style flavors.
Guava: Guava flavors have an obvious balsamic Starfruit: Starfruit flavors are pretty much as
note, usually driven by ethyl cinnamate or methyl delicate as lychee flavors and, here again, 10 ppm
cinnamate and cinnamyl acetate is a very helpful has a pleasant deepening effect.

21

PF1905_Wright_fcx.indd 21 4/8/19 3:05 PM

 Flavor Bites

Orchard Fruit Flavors Blackcurrant: The bright, catty, sulfur notes of

Apple: All apple flavors need a dominant fresh blackcurrant flavors can really benefit from offsetting
note, often provided by trans-2-hexenal, but this can depth and complexity. This ingredient at 40 ppm is
lead to a lack of depth. Cinnamyl acetate, at around a useful part of the solution, ideally in conjunction
20 ppm, helps to add depth and complexity. with other middle notes.
Apricot: Higher levels, up to 100 ppm, are equally Raspberry: Cinnamyl acetate at moderate
effective in apricot flavors, giving a subtle taste effect levels, around 50 ppm, can add extra realism and
and adding realism. red fruit character, lifting the profile out of the
Cherry: A good level of cinnamyl acetate in ordinary, adding ripeness without detracting from
authentic cherry flavors is 50 ppm, adding realism the fresh notes.
without intruding noticeably into the character. The Strawberry: The ideal level of addition to straw-
more benzaldehyde-oriented fantasy style flavors berry flavors varies. A good level for fresh strawberry
need higher levels. At 200 ppm, it softens the bitter flavors is 150 ppm, where cinnamyl acetate helps to
almond notes quite nicely. round out the cinnamates. Jammy flavors can easily
Peach: Peach flavors behave in a very similar way go higher, depending on the profile required.
to apricot flavors and 100 ppm is also a good starting
point for this category. At this level it takes some of Other Flavors
the edge off the gamma lactone notes. Grape: Concord grape flavors can easily make
Pear: Lower levels of cinnamyl acetate, as little good use of at least 200 ppm of cinnamyl acetate,
as 20 ppm, add an ideal extra depth and complexity adding a very sympathetic twist to the rather plain
to pear flavors, working in very much the same way character of methyl anthranilate. More floral grape
they do in apple flavors. profiles, such as Muscat, need to reduce the level of
addition considerably, down to 20 ppm.
Berry Fruit Flavors Grapefruit: This might seem an unexpected
Blackberry: Blackberry flavors might not lack ingredient in any citrus flavor but that should not
depth, but a little extra complexity is often welcome. deter us. Differentiating grapefruit from orange is
Cinnamyl acetate can help with this at levels of addi- always helpful and the effect of cinnamyl acetate
tion in the region of 50 ppm. in peely grapefruit flavors at 100 ppm is definitely
interesting.
Rum: Cinnamyl acetate works well in white
rum flavors at around 20 ppm, adding useful
weight to what is often a very ethereal and insub-
stantial profile. Much higher levels can be used
successfully in darker rum flavors, up to 100 ppm
in extreme cases.

22 Flavors Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_Wright_fcx.indd 22 4/8/19 3:05 PM

 SH
O
W B
CA O
SE OT
D H
AT B2
TH -B3
E
SI
M
PP
AR
mane
VANIL
AT HEART

MANE has a long and rich history sourcing vanilla at the heart of Madagascar. For the
past four decades, we have continuously strived to create shared values for Madagascan
vanilla farmers and their communities.

MANE’s unique sourcing model and long-term exclusive partnership enables us to secure
vanilla volumes, ensure full traceability and master cost and quality at every level of the
value chain. Along with our outstanding extraction capabilities, we count as a reliable
partner for sustainable vanilla.

Learn more about our local involvements at www.mane.com

PF Full Page.indd 1 3/25/19 3:10 PM

 Forward Thinking:
Fragrances Spring Forward,
Part 1
Current fine fragrance activity is being driven by experiential retailers,
custom fragrance technology, natural fragrances, gender-fluid
BY AMY MARKS-MCGEE,
launches, hero ingredients, eye-catching packaging, book releases
Trendincite LLC; amy@trendincite.com and beverages using scents to enhance the olfactory experience.

Editor's Note: You can read part 2 in the May Digital Magazine on
page DE 1.

T
rendincite’s Perfumer & Flavorist “Forward Thinking: Fierce
Fragrances” article, which appeared in May 2018, examined new
fine fragrance entrants, including fashion designers, pop culture
icons and entertainers as well as novel packaging, fragrance-
focused retailers and interactive scent experiences. These trends
continue and are still relevant. Current fine fragrance activity is being driven
by experiential retailers, custom fragrance technology, natural fragrances,
gender-fluid launches, hero ingredients, eye-catching packaging, book
releases and beverages using scents to enhance the olfactory experience.
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.

24 Fragrance Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_MarksMcGee_Part1_fcx.indd 24 4/8/19 3:06 PM

 Numbers at a Glance store was designed by Jeremy Barbour of Tacklebox
According to the NPD Groupa,
in the third Architecture and features a forty-two-foot-long
quarter of 2018 (July-September), U.S. fragrance freestanding archway made from Portuguese cork,
sales increased 6% to $783.6 million, and growth a tiled tunnel and a decorative Estremoz marble
was driven by a 9% increase in fragrance juice sales. washbasin, which is the same as the one in Claus
In addition, women’s sales increased 8%, while Porto’s flagship store. Claus Porto offers the brand’s
men’s were up 12%. According to Euromonitor perfumes, eau de cologne, soaps, shaving creams,
International,b the premium men’s fragrance sector beauty products and scented candles.
had a retail sales value of nearly $1.6 billion in 2017 Lifestyle brand Goop by Gwyneth Paltrow has
and is expected to grow by 10% to $1.7 billion by opened Goop Lab, its first permanent East Coast
2022. Additionally, Euromonitor Internationalc pre- flagship store in New York City’s NoHo neighbor-
dicts that the global fragrance market will grow close hood. To promote Goop’s beauty, skincare and
to $70 billion by 2022, up from $37 billion in 2017. kitchen products, the store will offer in-store beauty
By 2024 the market is estimated to be worth approxi- services and host cooking demos and events. In
mately $92 billion. Euromonitor International’s Thornton, Colorado at the Denver Premium Outlets,
datad also revealed that sales of premium fragrances Perfumania Holdings, Inc. opened its first concept
targeted at both men and women have grown 25% store, which is self-described as “multisensory
globally from 2012 to 2017. In the APAC region, fragrance destination that redefines the fragrance
sales grew 53.1% for the same period. According to shopping experience.” The 900 square foot store is
IMARCe, in 2017, the fragrance market in the United designed to engage, educate and inspire consum-
Arab Emirates (UAE) was worth $403 million, and it ers and features a hands-on Discovery Hub Scent
is forecasted to reach $685 million by 2023, with an Finder, a digital tool and an omnichannel Scent
annual growth rate of 9%. Gallery, which enables consumers to explore over
40 fragrances and take-home samples. Banana
Experiential Retailers Republic and Cos Bar have collaborated to open
In today’s experiential economy, brands are a shop-in-shop inside Banana Republic’s San
continually looking for ways to attract consumers. Francisco flagship store. Cos Bar is known for
Retailers are creating experiential and engaging offering a curated array of beauty brands and an
environments to educate consumers and showcase engaging sales experience focused on the needs
their products. of the client. The Cos Bar is staffed by Cos Bar
Claus Porto, the Portuguese beauty and fra- employees and features luxury products as well as
grance brand, opened its first international store in a cheaper line. Outerwear brand The North Face
New York City’s trendy Nolita neighborhood. The opened the brand’s “Prototype” Concept flagship
a https://www.gcimagazine.com/marketstrends/segments/cosmetics/In-Prestige-
store in Williamsburg, Brooklyn offering an exclusive
Skin-Care-Continues-Just-Keeps-Growing-499402641.html selection of curated lifestyle items, limited editions
b https://www.glossy.co/beauty/dtc-brand-dollar-shave-club-expands-its-portfolio-
and brand collaborations. To connect to the com-
with-fragrance
c https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/81413/en/page/4 munity and act as a cultural hub, Prototype will host
d https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2018/10/17/Genderless- art and music events. To further engage consumers,
fragrances-and-the-freedom-it-represents
e https://us.fashionnetwork.com/news/Fragrance-sales-in-UAE-to-be-worth-685-
the store features an environmental signature scent
million-in-2023,1023844.html# described as “the ultimate outdoor experience,” with

Claus Porto’s first international New York City store was designed by Jeremy Barbour of Tacklebox Architecture and features a forty-two-foot-long freestanding archway made
from Portuguese cork, a tiled tunnel and a decorative Estremoz marble washbasin, which is the same as the one in Claus Porto’s flagship store. Courtesy of Claus Porto.

25

PF1905_MarksMcGee_Part1_fcx.indd 25 4/8/19 3:06 PM

 Forward Thinking: Fragrances Spring Forward

top notes of grapefruit, bergamot and blood orange;

mid notes of galbanum, violet leaf and moss; and a
drydown of patchouli, cedarwood and musk, which
was created in partnership with Robertet and dif-
fused by Scent Marketing, Inc.
At the Atelier Prada in Singapore, the Italian
fashion brand offers a variety of fun and unique
packaging choices for their La Femme Prada and
L’Homme Prada fragrances. Customers can dress
their fragrances in six different vibrant bottle
sleeves with graphic designs ranging from mas-
culine geometric prints to feminine florals and
decorate them with fashion stickers and metallic
initials. After purchase, each fragrance is wrapped
in a selection of Prada-patterned tissue papers,
ribbons, luxury boxes and retro stickers. Similarly,
Viktor & Rolf offers the option of customizing the
brand’s bottles of Flowerbomb, Spicebomb and
Bonbon perfumes using the “Dress Up Your Bottle” Fluid Fragrances is a new line of gender-fluid scents made with between 15% and
online platform. Customers can choose from an 30% perfume oil and organic argan oil sourced from a cooperative of Berber women
array of colors and accompanying accessories. The in Morocco. I, AM, HUMAN fragrances shown. Courtesy of Fluid Fragrances.
Flowerbomb fragrance is offered in four different
bottle designs and the bottle can be engraved. into vending machines with trial-size versions of
Although not a retailer, a novel concept is its products including shave, shower, hair care and
Fragrance creator’s Cinquième Sens co-working skin care. According to the company, Dollar Shave
space in Paris, France. The space allows perfumers Club members will get an app notification when
and brand-owners to work in a dedicated beauty they are near a machine. The machines are located
environment with flexible rental opportunities.In in ten high-traffic areas including mass transit
the “Take Flight” section of Trendincite’s Perfumer hubs like airports and train stations and shopping
& Flavorist “Forward Thinking: Fierce Fragrances” centers like malls and stadiums to reach users when
article, Trendincite LLC discussed retailers launch- customers need them. Locations include the Mall of
ing pop-up shops and standalone stores in airports. America in Minnesota, the Transbay Transit Center
This trend continues and according to Allied Market in San Francisco, Roosevelt Field in Long Island
Researchf, the global travel retail market size was and LaGuardia Airport in New York.
valued at $74.9 billion in 2017 and is projected to In Dec. 2018, Maison Christian Dior opened its
reach $153.7 billion by 2025, growing at a CAGR of first standalone Dior Parfums boutique in Terminal
9.6% from 2018 to 2025. The perfumes and cosmet- 5 at London Heathrow International airport in part-
ics segment accounted for more than 31% of the nership with Dufry’s World Duty Free. The boutique
travel retail market share in 2017 and is expected to is designed to “evoke Christian Dior’s apartment, La
dominate the global market by 2025. Colle Noir in Grasse, France and a back wall features
Puig partnered with JCDecaux to create a a virtual snowy window scene of this location.” The
multisensory discovery experience to unveil Paco boutique showcases the full range of 32 artisanal
Rabanne’s new Pure XS For Her fragrance. fragrances and the fragrances are color coded and
Located at Terminal 2 in the Paris Charles De merchandised with related products, such as room
Gaulle airport, France, the experience featured an candles, hand and bath soaps and body creams. Also
out-of-home media site from Sept. 2018 to Jan. in Dec. 2018, Chanel has partnered with Dufry to
2019. The multisensory discovery center invited open a standalone beauty boutique at São Paulo-
travelers to taste a Pure XS-branded vanilla-flavored Guarulhos International airport in Terminal 3.
popcorn, a key ingredient in the scent, and smell Chanel described the space as “a true place of expres-
Pure XS fragrance and its masculine counterpart, sion with a story to tell” and highlights the French
Pure XS For Him, which were emitted through label’s fragrances, make-up, skincare and beauty
an automated fan. At the end of the experience, accessories. For example, one area of the boutique
travelers were offered a free sample. In Nov. 2018, was inspired by a curved mirror-lined staircase at
digital native brand Dollar Shave Club ventured the Coco Chanel’s Parisian apartment. The décor will
change with the seasons and consumers are encour-
f https://www.alliedmarketresearch.com/press-release/travel-retail-market.html
aged to test and play with the products.

26 Fragrance Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_MarksMcGee_Part1_fcx.indd 26 4/8/19 3:06 PM

 SUSTAINABLE SCENT

BIOCYCLAMOL
TM

A new ingredient from our Sustainable Scent

ĐŽůůĞĐƟŽŶ͘

EĂƚƵƌĞŝĚĞŶƟĐĂůŝŽĚĞŐƌĂĚĂďůĞ
KƉƟĐĂůůLJĂĐƟǀĞdƌĂŶƐƉĂƌĞŶƚŐƌĞĞŶŇŽƌĂů

SUSTAINABLE SCENT
Sustainable Scent ŝƐdĂŬĂƐĂŐŽďƌĂŶĚƚŚĂƚŝƐŐŝǀĞŶƚŽĂŶĂƌŽŵĂŝŶŐƌĞĚŝĞŶƚ
made from renewable resourcesĂŶĚƵƟůŝnjŝŶŐGreen Chemistry͘

PF Full Page.indd 1 3/20/19 9:12 AM

 Forward Thinking: Fragrances Spring Forward

Custom Fragrance Tech Trufflebot system is comprised of eight pairs of

Technology continues to advance with new digital sensors and each pair has a chemical and a mechani-
and interactive fragrance experiences and custom cal sensor. “The chemical sensors detect the chemical
fragrance development. fingerprint of a vapor, while each mechanical sensor
Scentinvent Technologies’ mission is to rethink detects changes to air pressure and temperature,
fragrance form and function to a new level of important contributors to how we humans process
fantasy. Known for their Lingerg Fragrance Primer, sensory information.” According to the researchers,
the company has formulated several new fra- the combination of the chemical and mechanical
grance applications set to disrupt the industry. The sensors enables the odor to be identified correctly
Fragrance Cooler is a quick dry swivel stick applica- with 95% accuracy. Symrise in partnership with
tor with a cooling sensation while the Fragrance IBM Research developed Philyrai, a method of
Melt is a cream balm that easily melts into the skin using artificial intelligence (AI) to create perfumes
and leaves a powder finish. Like cosmetics, the based on digital fragrance models. The technology
product is customizable with an interchangeable is being used to create two O Boticario fragrances,
palette. Using many of the company’s technologies, expected sometime in 2019. Similarly, McCormick &
Scentinvent will debut their own brand Scentinvent Company, Incorporated and IBM Research have col-
Pom Pom, which will focus on unique fragrance laborated to use AI “to learn and predict new flavor
forms, textures and experiences. combinations from hundreds of millions of data
The Nota Nota Machine is a personalized scent points across sensory science, consumer preference
mixing machine with an app, which enables users and flavor palettes.” McCormick’s first product “One” j
to create custom 5ml bottles of perfume within is expected by mid-2019 and will be a one-dish recipe
60 seconds as well as save the perfume blends flavor mix including Tuscan chicken, Bourbon pork
and share. The machine uses a series of fragrance tenderloin and New Orleans sausage.
cartridges called Tolas, which are available in 12
scents: bergamot, jasmine, magnolia, Taif rose, moss, i https://www.symrise.com/newsroom/article/breaking-new-fragrance-ground-with-

artificial-intelligence-ai-ibm-research-and-symrise-are-workin/
saffron, vanilla, sandalwood, oud, marine, amber j https://www.perfumerflavorist.com/networking/news/company/McCormick-and-

and musk. Jo Malone London created a Fragrance IBM-Are-Giving-You-a-Taste-of-AI--505197761.html

Finder digital quiz on Alibaba’s Tmall e-commerce

platform to enable Chinese users to create custom-
ized fragrances. The quiz asks a series of questions
related to mood, personality and style that lead to
one of 300 possible fragrances made from a com-
bination of 26 scents. The results are shared with
product recommendations including their ideal
fragrance and other perfumes for layering, as well as
descriptions of each scent. To add a more high-touch
experience, Jo Malone offers gift boxes, ribbons
and handwritten greeting cards during checkout.
In Buenos Aires, Argentina, with retail partner
Julieraque, Coty introduced a multisensorial virtual
reality fragrance discovery experience that mixes
touch, smell, sound and sight. Shoppers are given a
virtual reality headset and select up to seven scent
stones, which each represent a unique olfactive
territory and activate an eight-second unique video.
The fragrance experience comes to life through the
scented and texturized stone, 3D visuals and sound.
At the end of the video consumers can receive up
to six recommendations from the eight Coty luxury
brands offered in Argentina based on their top three
favorite fragrance territories.
Truffleboth is a new electronic nose designed
by a group of researchers at Brown University. The
Paris Hilton launched her 24th scent Platinum Rush Paris Hilton For Women,
“which includes a bright and sophisticated scent that radiates with a sparkling
g Linger is a registered trademark of Scentinvent™ Technologies blend of crisp Asian pear, ripe red apple, wet green florals and muguet
h https://thespoon.tech/meet-trufflebot-an-electronic-nose-that-actually-sniffs/
flowers.” Courtesy of Parlux Fragrances, LLC.

28 Fragrance Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_MarksMcGee_Part1_fcx.indd 28 4/8/19 3:06 PM

 Gender-Fluid berry, magnolia and papyrus wood accords and
Trendincite’s Perfumer & Flavorist “Forward Sunset Riot has woody with notes of pink pepper,
Thinking: Fierce Fragrances” article, which orange flower and cedarwood.
appeared in May 2018, examined gender-neutral Andrea Maack, the Icelandic visual artist and
fragrances. Gender-fluid fragrances continue to fragrance brand, added Dark to her fragrance range.
launch as expressing individuality becomes increas- Dark is a unisex fragrance described as a “heavily
ingly popular. UK department store Liberty London oxidized rose mixed with violets and leather” and
saw a 40% rise in the sales of unisex fragrances in includes apple, pink pepper, mandarin oil, Turkish
store and online in 2018k. rose oil, petitgrain, orange flower, Virginian cedar
Mx. by Eris Parfums is “named after the gender- wood, ciste absolute and musk accords. Functional
neutral title starting to replace Mr., Mrs. and Ms. Fragrance by the Nue Co. was designed to lower
the ‘X’ in Mx.” The gender-neutral scent contains cortisol levels. Designed “to calm the nervous system
ginger, saffron, vetiver, black pepper, cedarwwood, via olfactory triggers,” the unisex scent contains green
sandalwood, cacao, benzoin and castoreum. Fluid cardamom, iris, Palo Santo, violet and cedarwood.
Fragrances is a new line of gender-fluid scents made
with between 15% and 30% perfume oil and organic Enterprising Women
argan oil sourced from a cooperative of Berber There is no shortage of fine fragrances. Although
women in Morocco. I is described as a dirty woody celebrity fragrances are declining, there are a few
floral, AM is a floral herbal citrus, A is deep rich women moguls that have staying power and con-
vanilla amber, HUMAN is a dirty musky rose and tinue to grow their fragrance empires.
BEING is deep rich and sexy. Candles, three natural It is reported that Paris Hilton’s fragrance sales
fragrances, shampoo, conditioner, body lotion and exceeded $2.5 billionl. Paris Hilton launched her 24th
wash are all in the pipeline. scent Platinum Rush Paris Hilton For Women,
Le Labo released Tonka 25, its first new fra- “which includes a bright and sophisticated scent that
grance in three years. Described as an “addictive, radiates with a sparkling blend of crisp Asian pear,
dark fragrance with woody notes and a subtle hint ripe red apple, wet green florals and muguet flowers.”
of sweetness,” the scent also includes orange flower It is estimated that Britney Spears’ fragrance
absolute, cedar atlas, styrax resins and absolute empire earns her $50 million a yearm. Rainbow
tonka. Ormaie, by mother and son team, Marie-Lise Fantasy by Britney Spears is the artist’s 25th fra-
Jonak and Baptiste Bouygues, exclusively launched grance. Described as an oriental floral, the fragrance
at Barney’s New York in Nov. 2018. The fragrance highlights cloudberry, pear leaf, finger lime, peony,
collection features seven unisex scents made from water lily, jasmine, woods, crystal amber and cotton
non-synthetic, fully-traceable ingredients such as candy. Kim Kardashian West is a marketing guru
patchouli from India, vanilla from Madagascar and and her KKW Beauty brand, which includes cosmet-
rose from France. The ingredients were sourced ics and fragrances, has received an estimated $100
from producers who have their own fields, are in million in revenuen. Kim Kardashian West was at it
a joint venture with the producer, or audit their again with the addition of three new KKW Hearts
primary supplier every year. fragrances that launched on Valentine’s Day. The trio
Kenneth Cole introduced the Fragrances for All uses the same colorful, heart-shaped bottles as the
series in three shared perfumes designed to be worn original three scents. Baby Girl is described as “a
alone or layered. Energy features citrus and orange sultry, yet flirtatious floral citrus fragrance that glim-
blossom notes, Intensity highlights a spicy blend of mers with a magnetic charm,” with peony, jasmine,
cardamom, tobacco leaf and coffee absolute while muguet, musk, vetiver and amber crystals. Baddie
Serenity contains woody notes of white pepper, is “a dynamic, ultra-addictive and captivating floral
sandalwood and tonka bean. Madewell launched fragrance,” with palm leaves, wild rose, iris, geranium,
its first ever fragrance line in four scents: Beau heady woods, soft musks and golden amber, and
(amber, woods), Chambray (floral, amber), Indigo Wifey is “a soft and sophisticated fragrance with notes
(musk, woods) and Sedona (citrus, floral). The of whipped caramel and creamy musks,” with yuzu,
fragrances are formulated with cruelty free ingre- pomelo, violet leaves, magnolia, freesia, mimosa.
dients and are designed to be layered and mixed
l https://www.townandcountrymag.com/society/money-and-power/a14531587/
with other scents. UK All Saints fashion brand has paris-hilton-net-worth/
debuted a trio of unisex perfumes. The Incense m https://www.bbc.com/news/entertainment-arts-43211613

City is a blend of cypress, cedarwood and incense,

n https://www.forbes.com/sites/natalierobehmed/2018/07/11/why-kim-kardashian-

west-is-worth-350-million/#7030d1524f7b
while Metal Wave is a musky oriental with juniper

k https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/beauty/fragrance/g38227/best-gender-neutral- Editor's Note: Please turn to page DE1 in the May

fragrances/ Digital Magazine to read part 2.

29

PF1905_MarksMcGee_Part1_fcx.indd 29 4/8/19 3:06 PM

 Authentication
of a Flavoring
Substance:
The Vanillin
Case
As vanilla remains a popular taste and scent
around the world, the global vanillin market
is responding to increasing demands for
naturals, while also addressing regulatory
and adulteration issues.

BY CORINE COCHENNEC, Solvay Vanil’Expert Center EMEA & Global Formulations Manager and CORINNE DUFFY,
Technical Marketing Manager, Solvay Aroma Performance

V
anilla is, and will certainly remain, favored flavor, ingredients suppliers have devel-
one of the most appreciated flavors oped several types of vanillins identical to the one
in the world. Grown in tropical areas present in vanilla beans, meeting different labels,
around the world, vanilla is mainly either synthetic or more recently natural to meet the
grown in Madagascar. Its supply is increasing natural trend market demand (see T-1).
subject to variability in availability, price and quality.
In recent years, vanilla beans prices have increased
greatly due to climate issues and speculation,
Overview of industrial synthetic and natural
alongside with a decrease of quality. The large pathways to obtain vanillins
demand for vanilla in sweet flavors cannot be met by The current offer for vanillin is quite vast; F-1
the limited amount of cultivated vanilla beans. gives a large and comprehensive landscape of vanil-
Vanillin (4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde) lins available on the market.
is the main organoleptic characteristic aroma Originally, vanillin came from vanilla beans where
component, naturally occurring in cured vanilla it is present as glucovanillin, linked to a carbohydrate
beans between 1-2% of the dry matter. In order to moiety and released by the curing process. Vanillins
satisfy the increasing global demand for this highly can now be largely grouped into three categories:

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.

30 Fragrance Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

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 T-1. Regulations on natural flavoring substances in force

In Europe, according to European Regulations EC 1334/20081, to allow a flavoring substance to be labelled

“natural,” three conditions must be strictly met:
• The flavoring substance is naturally present in nature,
• the raw material is natural and
• the process is natural according to EC 1334/2008.

In the United States, according to U.S. regulations (FDA) 21CFR101.22 2, to define a flavoring substance as
“natural,” two conditions have to be fulfilled:
• The raw material is natural and
• the process is natural according to (FDA) 21CFR101.22.

• Synthetic vanillins: Nowadays, the very large is the bioconversion of ferulic acid, naturally
majority of vanillin used in the flavor and food occuring in the cell walls of plants such as rice or
and beverage industry are synthetic vanillin. maize.3-9, 22,23 Vanillin obtained from ferulic acid,
Most of the synthetic vanillins are produced from available on the market since the 2000’s10, strictly
catechol by a first step of methylation leading to meets the EU and U.S. regulations on natural
synthetic guaiacol, followed by formylation with flavors.
glyoxylic acid. Other types of synthetic vanillin • U.S. natural vanillins: Eugenol is naturally
are produced by chemical oxidation of the sulfitic occuring in clove. Because eugenol is an antisep-
waste, namely the brown liquor, of the paper tic compound, the biotransformation of eugenol
industry leading to vanillin from lignin. to vanillin is difficult.10-16
• EU natural vanillins: Driven by consumer
demand for natural flavors in the 90’s, a growing The vanillin ex-eugenol available on the market
interest to produce natural vanillin through is produced by conversion of eugenol to isoeugenol
bioconversion from sources other than the vanilla followed by catalytic oxidation,17,18 process condi-
bean was observed. One of the most intensively tions not meeting the definition of natural process
studied processes to produce natural vanillin
(Continued on Page 34)

F-1. Available vanillin pathways in the market

OH

OCH3

CHO

VANILLIN

FERULIC VANILLA
GUAIACOL LIGNIN CURCUMIN EUGENOL GUAIACOL
ACID BEAN

Turmeric or
Catechol Paper pulp Clove Conifers Rice bran Vanilla
curcuma

SYNTHETIC VANILLINS NATURAL VANILLINS US NATURAL VANILLINS

31

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 Authentication of a Flavoring Substance: The Vanillin Case

T-2. Typical values of 14C activity for vanillins

Material 14C

Vanillin origin in dpm/gr

Typical synthetic ex-guaiacol vanillin 0 to 1,4
Typical natural vanillin from ferulic acid 13,8 (in 2016)
US natural vanillin from natural guaiacol sample 1 13,9
US natural vanillin from natural guaiacol sample 2 14,0
US natural vanillin from natural guaiacol sample 3 14,05
US natural vanillin from natural guaiacol sample 4 13,75
US natural vanillin from natural guaiacol sample 5 14,1

(Continued from Page 31)

according to EU regulation and accepted as natural are traditional methods for the assessment of the
in the U.S. market. authenticity of vanilla, commonly used to unequivo-
Curcumin naturally occuring in curcuma is cally discriminate vanillin from vanilla bean from all
another natural precursor. Though described in the other known sources of vanillin or mixtures thereof.
literature, the bioconversion of curcumin to vanillin For each new source of vanillin hitherto unknown
is tedious19 and ex-curcumin vanillin available on in the isotopic database, such as natural vanillin from
the market is mainly produced by the Mallinkrodt ferulic acid from maize in 201321 and vanillin from
process,20, at high temperature (> 250°C) and high natural guaiacol in the present paper, the demonstra-
pressure (> 100 mbar). These process conditions do tion of discrimination must be carried out.
not fulfil the definition of natural process stated in This paper will give an overview of all isotopic
Regulation (EC) N° 1334/2008. analytical methods from the most straightforward
Guaiacol is a naturally-occurring molecule that and widely available, such as monovariate 14C
can be derived from guaiacum or wood creosote. activity and 13C IRMS, to the most recent and
Nowadays, natural guaiacol is sustainably obtained sophisticated such as the multivariate 2H SNIF-NMR
from renewable wood such as beech, pine or oak. and more recently 13C SNIF-NMR. Hereafter, we
Guaiacol itself is a flavoring substance (FEMA# present a four-step methodology based on current
2532) displaying a smoky, bacon note contributing isotopic techniques.
to the flavor of many substances such as whisky
and roasted coffee. Step 1: 14C Activity to Assess the Biobased Origin of
U.S. natural vanillin was recently produced by Material
Solvay at industrial scale from natural guaiacol by a 14C radiocarbon activity is a widely used isotopic
process compliant with the FDA regulation in force. method, in particular in the United States, to assess
Rhovanil US Nat from natural guaiacol displays a the fossil or non-fossil origin of materials, as a per-
pure vanillin profile, making it the perfect substitute centage of Modern Carbon, thus biobased carbon.24
to synthetic vanillin for US natural flavors, unlike The newly launched U.S. natural vanillin ex-natu-
other US natural vanillin, such as ex-eugenol vanil- ral guaiacol, Rhovanil US Nat, displays a 14C activity
lin displaying unpleasant spicy, smoky and eugenol around 14 dpm/gr (or desintegration per minute per
facets. As prices can vary greatly depending on gram) corresponding to 100% Modern Carbon, thus
availability, processes and labelling, it is key to rely authentitifying the biobased origin of carbon, as
on authentication methods to guarantee transpar- illustrated in T-2.
ency to customers. Ability for the consumer to differentiate vanillin
from vanilla beans from other natural vanillin is key.
Authentication Methods However, 14C activity does not provide such dis-
Pure vanillin molecules, whatever the pathway, crimination. Thus, more discriminant methods are
intrinsically only differ on isotopic ratio, either of required. In particular, the methods described in this
unstable isotope such as 14C or stable isotopes such paper can provide some guidance.
as 2H or 13C or 18O.
14C radiocarbon analysis and isotopic devia- Step 2: 13C/12C Isotopic Ratio by Elemental Analysis-
tion analysis of stable isotopes such as 13C IRMS Isotopic Ratio Mass Spectrometry (EA-IRMS)
and 2H-SNIF-NMR (Site Specific Natural Isotopic 13C IRMS is widely used by flavor houses and
Fractionation - Nuclear Magnetic Resonance) the food and beverage industry, in particular to

34 Fragrance Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

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PF Full Page.indd 1 3/20/19 10:56 AM
 Authentication of a Flavoring Substance: The Vanillin Case

F-2. 14C data for vanillins from the market

0% Modern Carbon 100% Modern Carbon

0 13,63 [~ 14]

NATURAL VANILLINS dpm/gr*

SYNTHETIC VANILLINS From vanilla or from
Fossil origin bioconversion of natural
*Disintegration per
minute per gram
ferulic acid
Modern Carbon US NATURAL
reference 2018 Vanillin ex-eugenol or
=100% ex-curcumin or ex natural
biosourced Guaiacol

SYNTHETIC VANILLINS
From lignin

Source: Solvay Vanil’Expert Center

assess the vanilla bean origin of vanilla extracts and

natural vanilla flavors.25, 26 13 C/12C isotopic devia- Photosynthetic Pathways and
tion is determined by EA-IRMS (Elemental Analysis
- Isotopic Ratio Mass Spectrometry) consisting
Isotopic Effects
of a first combustion step producing 13CO2 and Isotopes are species of the same element differing
12CO which are respectively quantified by mass
2 by the number of neutrons. The natural abundance of
spectrometry. isotopes in the biosphere and living organisms is not
It should be noticed that 13C isotopic deviation uniform around the world. The isotopic ratio depends on
obtained by this method is a mean value of all the several parameters such as natural presence (vs synthetic
carbon atoms in the sample. d13C isotopic deviations origin) and, for natural raw materials extracted from
of vanillins from the market measured by EA-IRMS biomass, on the photosynthetic path of the plant (C4 vs C3
are displayed in F-3.
plants), and even on geographical production zones.
The recently launched U.S. natural vanillin from
Natural isotopic variations observed in chlorophyll
natural guaiacol, Rhovanil US Nat, displaying d13C
tissues versus atmosphere are due to fractionation
around –24 +/- 2% in an empty space of the d13C
phenomena, also called isotopic discrimination,
scale is thus differentiated by IRMS 13C from all
occurring between “light” molecules, such as 12CO2 and
other sources. However, 13C IRMS isotopic deviation
is not sufficient to differentiate all vanillins' botanical
“heavier ones,” such as 13CO2 and 14CO2, during carbon
origin or cases of adulteration such as ex-eugenol assimilation at light. Photosynthesis discriminates the light
U.S. natural vanillin with a synthetic one. isotope 12C to the detriment of the heavy isotopes such as
13C and 14C in leaves. The consequence is a decrease in
13C (and 14C) of the plant organic matter, compared to the
Step 3: Isotopic Fingerprint by 2H SNIF-NMR
2H SNIF-NMR stands for “Site Specific Natural carbon of atmospheric CO2.
Isotopic Fractionation by Nuclear Magnetic Away from industrial activity, atmospheric carbon
Resonance of Proton” (See F-4). Developed by dioxide displays a mean isotopic deviation of about d13C =
Eurofins, and widely used by authorities such -8% all over the world. The effect of CO2 integration by the
as French DGCCRF (General Directorate for plant leads to a decrease of 13C isotopic ratio in plants of
Competition Policy, Consumer Affairs and Fraud about -20% for plants with a C3 photosynthetic pathway
Control) and flavor houses, it allows to acquire site such as rice, wheat or sugar beet, whereas C4 plant such
specific 2D/1H ratio by Nuclear Magnetic Resonance as maize or sugarcane discrimination toward 13C is lower.
(NMR) thus providing a fingerprint allowing As a result, the 13C/12C isotopic deviation is only lowered
multivariate analysis such as Principal Component by about -3 to 4% in C4 plants.27
Analysis (PCA).

36 Fragrance Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_Duffy_fcx.indd 36 4/8/19 3:09 PM

 WOOD VANILLIN
Vanillin is the world’s most popular flavour for use in food and fragrances.
Wood vanillin is naturally occurring within the tree, embedded
in the tree structure.

Wood Sugar removal/ Vanillin

disintegration fermentation Purification

Raw material Wood Vanillin

During the biorefinery process the vanillin within the There is a limited amount of vanilla beans produced
tree is separated, collected, purified to more than globally, and there is an increasing market focus
99,9%, crystalized & packed in 25 kilo cartons. Wood on replacing synthetic ingredients with bio-based,
vanillin is defined as a Derived Natural ingredient plant-based and sustainable ingredients.
for cosmetics and personal care according to the
International Standard ISO 16128-1.

Vanillin widely occurs in plants and is one of nature’s

protection systems. This protection comes in the form “Borregaard supplies the
of inherent anti-microbial properties which take effect
when the trees or plants are attacked by fungi, yeast,
market with high grade
bacteria or insects. As such, vanillin acts as a bio-based vanillin.”
preservative when used in food, fragrance and
cosmetic formulations.

Borregaard has produced wood vanillin since 1962.

Today, Borregaard is the world’s most advanced
biorefinery, making several hundred commercial
bio-based products
from trees. Natural vanilla > 300 USD/kg

Wood vanillin is Key selling points:

sustainable and gives • Labelled as ”natural”
• Unique taste profile
a 90% reduction in CO2
emissions compared to
guaiacol vanillin synthe-
sized from crude oil.

Hence the climate impact

of Borregaard’s wood
x 29 Bio-based vanillin < 100 USD/kg
vanillin is much smaller Key selling points:
than that of oil-derived • Natural raw material
vanillin. • Sustainable
• Creamy taste profile

Oil-based vanillin < 20 USD/kg

Wood Vanillin Oil-based Vanillin Key selling points:

• Price
Oil-derived vanillin has a climate impact which is 29
times greater than wood vanillin, irrespective of where
it is produced.

Borregaard AS | borregaard@borregaard.com | www.vanillin.com | Tel.: +476911800 | Hjalmar Wessels vei 6, 1721 Sarpsborg Norway

PF Full Page.indd 1 2/28/19 12:00 PM

 Authentication of a Flavoring Substance: The Vanillin Case

F-3. d13C IRMS data for vanillins from the market

[-35 to -38] ‰ ~ - 32,5 to - 27 ‰ [-18 to -21,5 ] ‰

[
[
NATURAL VANILLINS
US NATURAL SYNTHETIC From C4 plants ferulic 13C
NATURAL VANILLINS
VANILLINS VANILLINS acid
From C3 plants ferulic acid
Such as such as corn, sugarcane
Eugenol Guaiacol
rice/wheat/sugarbeet
-32,5 to -30,5‰ -29 to -27 ‰
NATURAL VANILLINS
From CAM plant
Curcumin Lignin such as ex-Vanilla
-30 to -28‰ -29 to -27‰ Bean VANILLIN

US Natural vanillin from

natural guaiacol
~ -24 ‰

Source: Solvay Vanil’Expert Center / Eurofins

In 2006, 2H SNIF-NMR was approved as official fingerprint (see F-5). However, to provide a more
method by the Association of Official Analytical direct and straightforward evidence of naturalness
Chemists (AOAC 2006.05). Typical 2H SNIF-NMR further authentication methods were investigated.
values for vanillins from the market are shown in T-3.
The U.S. natural ex-guaiacol vanillin Rhovanil US Step 4: Isotopic Fingerprint by 13C SNIF-NMR
Nat is unambiguously discriminated from all other Like 2H SNIF-NMR, 13C SNIF-NMR stands for
sources of vanillins except from synthetic ex-guaiacol “Site Specific Natural Isotopic Fractionation by
vanillin based on principal component analysis of 2H Nuclear Magnetic Resonance of Carbon” (see F-6).
SNIF-NMR and 13C IRMS data on PC1-PC2. It allows to acquire site specific 13C/12C ratio by
However, some discrimination is observed on Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR), thus providing
(D/H)5 isotopic ratio corresponding to the methoxy a fingerprint allowing multivariate analysis such as
arising from the natural guaiacol with a ratio of 116 Principal Component Analysis (PCA) (see F-7).
ppm for U.S. natural ex-guaiacol vanillin versus 152 Due to the natural larger abundance of 13C in
ppm for the synthetic ex-guaiacol vanillin inducing nature compared to 2H (1,096% for 13C compared
discrimination on a PC3-PC4 scatterplot. to 0,015% for 2H) and due to the importance of 13C
Interestingly, when combining 2H SNIF-NMR and isotopic ratio in authentication, quantitative isotopic
14C activity (100% biobased) U.S. natural vanillin 13C nuclear magnetic resonance is of great interest.

from natural guaiacol displays a unique isotopic However, until now, it has been extremely challeng-
ing to determine the isotope fractionation of 13C at
each site of a substrate with sufficient precision to
determine isotope effect. Recent technical advances
F-4. Vanillin proton numbering and typical NMR spectrum in quantitative isotopic 13C nuclear magnetic
resonance, now enable an easier routine to use in
particular for vanillin authentication28-31.
In 2013, robustness has been demonstrated
through a pilot interlaboratory study by analytical
laboratories, flavor house and spectrometer manu-
facturers32 on vanillins from three different origin.
The relative standard deviation is 1,05 +/-0,15%.
This authentication technic is now available on
routine for vanillin at Eurofins. The analysis is three
times faster than 2H SNIF-NMR (5h vs 15h). In addi-
tion, less material is required (50 to 250 mg vs 1 gr)
reducing the amount of food sample to be processed
to extract the pure vanillin prior to analysis. 13C
SNIF-NMR ratio for vanillins from the market are
shown in T-4.

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 RENEWABLE INGREDIENTS

Positive principles,
sensational people
and regenerative
products are our
focal points

Let’s Talk #RenewxIFF

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 Authentication of a Flavoring Substance: The Vanillin Case

A clear discrimination is observed on 13C SNIF- demonstrated by E. Jamin et al in a recently pub-

NMR values of the newly launched US natural lished paper in Flavour Frag. Journal.33
vanillin ex-natural guaiacol Rhovanil US Nat, in Natural vanillin is an interesting case study as it
particular on the (13C/12C)8 isotopic ratio corre- is widely used in natural flavors and because it can
sponding to the methoxy group arising from the be derived from various plants either fast growing
natural guaiacol with (13C/12C)8 isotopic ratio of plant such as rice or slow growing plants such as
-18 ‰ (see F-7). trees. The flavor and ingredient industry is aware of
The Principal Component Analysis based on 13C an increased demand from the food manufacturers
SNIF-NMR values clearly discriminate all vanillins and final consumers for authenticity and traceabil-
from the market in a unique manner. In particular, ity. Therefore, more advanced analytical methods
13C SNIF-NMR discriminates without ambiguity have been developed to discriminate natural versus
the newly launched natural vanillin from guaiacol synthetic routes and are now used on a regular basis
which lies in a blank space of the 13C SNIF-NMR to comply with regulations for naturalness.
principal component analysis landscape of vanillins The analytical deck proposed in this paper
from the market. proved to be efficient to unequivocally identify
As a conclusion, 13C SNIF-NMR is the most effi- the US natural vanillin produced from naturally
cient tool to directly discriminate without ambiguity sourced guaiacol Rhovanil US Nat. For the indus-
all vanillins from the market. In addition, this new try in the vanillin case study, single use of 13C
technique also allows to detect mixtures preventing SNIF-NMR looks like a promising alternative or
adulteration and allowing to guarantee natural- complement to the combination of 14C activity, 13C
ness authentication for consumer awareness, as IRMS and 2H SNIF NMR.

T-3. 2H SNIF-NMR values of vanillin from the market

2D/1H SNIF-NMR
(D/H) (D/H) (D/H) (D/H)
Product 1 3 4 5
ppm ppm ppm ppm
Ex-ferulic rice (8 samples) 120 120 140 126
ex-eugenol (5 samples) 201 153 177 129
ex-curcumin (7 samples) 134 137 177 118
ex-lignin (7 samples) 122 129 169 105
ex-guaiacol synthetic (11 samples) 356 137 140 152
Typical value for US Natural Vanillin ex natural
368 +/-5 136 +/-5 129 +/-5 116 +/-5
guaiacol Rhovanil US Nat
Source : Solvay Vanil’Expert Center / Eurofins Nantes.

T-4. 13C SNIF-NMR values of vanillin from the market

d13C1 d13C2 d13C3 d13C4 d13C5 d13C6 d13C7 d13C8
Product
in ‰ in ‰ in ‰ in ‰ in ‰ in ‰ in ‰ in ‰
Vanilla ex-pods (Bourbon)
-15,6 -17,95 -20,85 -15,4 -23,8 -20,5 -25,05 -22,25
(8 samples)
Ex-ferulic rice (24 samples) -39,65 -29,05 -32,3 -26,35 -37,4 -33,65 -39,15 -55,6
ex-eugenol (4 samples) -28,25 -26,6 -30,30 -26,95 -32,1 -32,25 -34,15 -45,95
ex-curcumin (3 samples) -29,5 -26,9 -28,35 -24,75 -30,55 -29,05 -33,15 -34,9
ex-lignin (2 samples) -29,1 -26,55 -26,65 -23,2 -31,3 -27,05 -32,4 -25,7
ex-guaiacol synthetic (12 samples) -22,3 -30,05 -30,25 -23,55 -23,4 -26,25 -26,7 -56,85
Typical value for US Natural Vanillin ex
-3,7 -27,6 -23,9 -28,5 -31,7 -27,75 -32,35 -18,05
natural guaiacol Rhovanil US Nat
Source: Solvay Vanil’Expert Center / Courtesy of Eurofins Nantes

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 F-5. Principal component analysis (PCA) on vanillins based on 2H SNIF-NMR and 13C IRMS data

F-6. Vanillin proton numbering and typical NMR spectrum

41

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 Authentication of a Flavoring Substance: The Vanillin Case

F-7. Principal component analysis (PCA) on vanillins based on 13C SNIF-NMR data

References: 9. GB 2347424, Flavor/aroma materials and their preparation,

PSJ Cheetham, ML Gradley and JT Sime (February 24, 1999)
1. EC 1334/2008: REGULATION (EC) No 1334/2008 OF THE
(to Zylepsis)
EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL of 16
December 2008 on flavorings and certain food ingredients with 10. JR Desmurs, D Giannotta, M Gelo-Pujic, C Role and P Lancelin,
flavoring properties for use in and on foods and amending Synthesis and Authentication of Natural Vanillins Prepared by
Council Regulation (EEC) No 1601/91, Regulations (EC) No Fermentation, Perfumer & Flavorist, 29 (1) 32 (2004)
2232/96 and (EC) No 110/2008 and Directive 2000/13/EC
11. “Biochemical process for preparing aromatic substances” –
2. US FDA 21CFR101.22 WO9622381- MANE-J. mane & J. Zucca.

3. H Priefert, J Rabenhorst, A Steinbüchel, Biotechnological 12. “process for the preparation of phenylaldehydes” – EP542348-
production of vanillin, Appl Microbiol Biotechnol, 56, 296-314 QUEST – P.H. markus, R. Roos and A.L.J. Peters.
(2001)
13. “Production of vanillin and its related compounds by
4. JB Sutherland, DL Crawford and AL Pometto, Metabolism fermentation” – JP 5227980 – TAKASAGO – Y. Washisu, A.
of cinnamic, p-coumaric and ferulic acids by streptomyces Tetsushi, N. Hashimoto and Y. Kanisawa.
setonii, Can.J. Microbiol., 29, 1253-1257 (1983)
14. “Process for the preparation of vanillin” – Haarman & Reimer
5. EP 885968, Process for production of vanillin, B Mueller, T (Symrise) - US5017388 and EP405197 – J. Rabenhorst and R.
Muench, A Muheim and M Welti (June 19, 1997) (to Givaudan) Hopp.

6. WO 9634971, Method for producing vanillin using the 15. “Construction of production strains for producing substituted
bioconversion of benzene precursors, B Audras and J More phenols by specifically incactivating genes of eugenol and
(May 5, 1995) (to Orsan) ferulic acid catabolism” – EP1124947 – SYMRISE – J.
Rabenhorst, A. Steinbüchel, H. Priefert and J. Overhage
7. EP761817, Process for the preparation of vanillin and
microorganisms suitable therefore, R Hopp and J Rabenhorst 16. “Method for producing aromatic molecules in streptomyces”
(September 1rst,1995) (to Symrise) – WO2008/113936 – MANE FILS -

8. EP 1240336, Enzyme and genes used for producing vanillin, 17. A. Kadarohman – Sigmatropic rearrangement of cis-eugenol
J Rabenhorst, A Stein-Büchel, H Priefert and S Achterholt formation in isomerization reaction – Chemistry Education
(December 14, 1999) (to Symrise) Department of Indonesia University of education.

42 Fragrance Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_Duffy_fcx.indd 42 4/8/19 3:09 PM

 18. “Oxidation of isoeugenol to vanillin by the H2O2 vanadate Electrochimique de Métabolismes, LAIEM - UMR-CNRS 6006,
pyrazine – carboxylic acid” reagent – Journal of molecular Faculté des Sciences et des Techniques de Nantes), relu par
catalysis A :chemical - 363-364 (2012) 140-147 Guillaume Champion (professeur agrégé à l’ENS).
19. “Biotransformation of curcumin to vanillin”, Indian Journal of 28. Tenailleau EJ, Lancelin P, Robins RJ, Akoka S. Authentication
Chemistry, vol 50B, august 2011, pp 1119-1122 of the origin of vanillin using quantitative natural abundance
20. US4927805 (20/01/1989) – Mallinkrodt 13C NMR. J Agric Food Chem. 2004;52:7782-7787.

21. Corine Cochennec, Natural Vanillin Obtained by Means of 29. Caytan E, Botosoa EP, Silvestre V, Robins RJ, Akoka S, Remaud
Bioconversion, Perfumer & Flavorist, vol 38, 20 (2013) GS. Accurate quantitative 13C NMR spectroscopy: repeatability
over time of site-specific 13C isotope ratio determination. Anal
22. L Lesage-Meessen, A Lomascolo, E Bonnin, JF Thibault, A
Chem. 2007;79:8266-8269.
Buleon, M Roller, M Asther, E Record, B Colonna Ceccaldi and
M Asther, A biotechnological Process Involving Filamentous 30. Caytan E, Remaud GS, Tenailleau E, Akoka S. Precise and
Fungi to Produce Natural Crystalline Vanillin from Maize Bran, accurate quantitative 13C NMR with reduced experimental
Applied Biochemistry and Biotechnology, 102-103, 141-153 (2002) time. Talanta. 2007;71:1016-1021

23. AIR1-CT92-0026 project continued by FAIR Consortium – 31. Tenailleau E, Lancelin P, Robins RJ, Akoka S. NMR approach
FAIR-CT95-1099- - Final Report February 2000) (available in to the quantification of nonstatistical 13C distribution in
the web in 2006, not available anymore) natural products: vanillin. Anal Chem. 2004;76:3818-3825.

24. ASTM D6866-16: Standard Test Methods for Determining the 32. Alain Chaintreau, Wolfgang Fieber, Horst Sommer, Alexis
Biobased Content of Solid, Liquid, and Gaseous Samples Using Gilbert, Keita Yamada, Naohiro Yoshida, Alain Pagelot,
Radiocarbon Analysis Detlef Moskau, Aitor Moreno, Jürgen Schleucher, Fabiano
Reniero, Margaret Holland, Claude Guillou, Virginie Sylvestre,
25. Hoffman PG, Salb M. Isolation and stable isotope ratio analysis
Serge Aloka, Gérald S. Rémaud, Site –specific 3C content
of vanillin. J Agric Food Chem. 1979;27:352-355.
by quantitative isotopic 3C Nuclear magnetic Resonance
26. Bricout J, Fontes JC, Merlivat L. Detection of synthetic vanillin spectrometry: a pilot interlaboratory study. Analytica Chemica
in vanilla extracts by isotopic analysis. Creteil, France: Institut Acta 788 (2013) 108-113
de Recherches Appliquées aux Boissons; 1974.
33. Sophie Guyader, Freddy Thomas, Eric Jamin, Mathilde Grand,
27. “ L’Isotope : Traceur d’Origine. Distribution isotopique dans Serge Akoka, Virginie Silvestre, Gérald S. Remaud, Combination
les composés naturels”. Article rédigé par Gérald Remaud et of 13C and 2 H SNIF-NMR isotopic fingerprints of vanillin to
Serge Akoka (Professeurs, Laboratoire d’Analyse Isotopique et control its precursors. Flavour Fragr J. 2019;1–12

43

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 10 Ways Farm-to-Table Will Impact
Perfume’s Next Decade
"Farm-to-bottle" is the obvious evolution of today’s global appetite
for perfumery naturals. Watch out for some of the supply chain
subtleties so you don’t get left behind.

BY EDDIE BULLIQI, Fragrance Journalilst

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.

44 Fragrance Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_Bulliqi_fcx.indd 44 4/8/19 3:10 PM

 here is somewhat of a
sustainability war between
synthetics and naturals in both the
scientific and consumer communities.
Some believe that the low water usage and Inspired by farmers’ markets,
limitless supply potential of green chemistry
outweigh the high demand of resources and more consumers will actively
square footage of traditional farming; others
that the carbon footprint of large corporates
seek out direct-to-source
belie the livelihoods of smallholder farmers that operations, preferring to buy
are primed to action environmentally “circular”
practices, in which waste could be minimal. rose oil as raw and pure as
Naturals, however, have one great advantage: their
visual beauty. In an era of unprecedented power for
possible from the hands
visuality in which, not since the pre-Enlightenment that made it.
Renaissance, the written word has arguably fallen
in rank below that of the image, this is an important
fact. It is very hard for everyday non-scientists to be
emotionally moved by synthetics. Let’s say, for this preservatives and are reading labels more care-
argument, that naturals win that debate. fully, a habit picked up from the grocery aisle."1

Restauranteurs already felt out this social

Where it Came From trajectory as early as the 1970s; perfumery often
It is hard to quantify the value of nature in lags behind the food and service industries when
commerce. When reviewing the global natural and putting innovative cultural impulses into concrete.
organic personal care industry specifically, the As journalist Cinnamon Janzer discussed in an
market is expected to be valued at $21 billion by the Upserve feature on the history of the farm-to-table
end of 2024, riding a CAGR of 8.8% over an eight- movement, “it’s impossible to talk about the rise
year historya. But the exploitation of “natural,” as a of farm-to-table without discussing the fall of the
means to explain both forms and frameworks, can processed food empire.”2 She succinctly summarizes
be found in almost every single product category on the reengagement with smaller farms and their local
earth – from furniture to food, art to fashion, even organic produce, dominant until the Second World
in financial services (via the natural order of things, War, via the growing mistrust that took root in the
balancing acts and survival of the fittest). The cult hippie lobbies for mass-produced long-life processed
surrounding nature as a value accelerator is reach- groceries. Eventually “showing up in formal food
ing high tide, synonymous with health, prosperity, structures” such as Alice Waters’ restaurant Chez
and earnestness – a useful tool, given that a quarter Panisse in 1971, the movement continued to find
of teens aged 15-17 state they worry about staying followers at the rising number of farmers’ markets,
healthyb. which increased from 1,755 to 8,268 in the United
This has, of course, watershed into perfumery States between 1994 and 2014, before fully branch-
with dramatic results – photo-realistic composi- ing its roots on the back of the mega-trends for craft
tions such as Pulp by Byredo, the ubiquity of storytelling, holistic wellness and the experience
“Grassoise” rose in every niche launch and, now, the economy from the early 2010s to today.3
introduction of “farm-to-table” marketing. Victoria
Buchanan, senior futures analyst at The Future
Laboratory, explains that
Where We’re At
Due to supply chain complications and require-
“An obsession with wellness and detoxifica- ments for specialist equipment, as well as doubtless
tion, both in terms of diet and products, is resistance from the large fragrance houses to devalue
fuelling a demand for stripped-back, ‘clean’ their own contribution to the oil trade process,
ingredients. Consumers are becoming more “farm-to-bottle” has still not come to full fruition
knowledgeable about possible irritations caused in scent-making. Many early adopters have tried to
by synthetic ingredients in fragrances and integrate farm-freshness into their strategy but have
often fallen short of true consumer desire for authen-
a https://www.persistencemarketresearch.com/mediarelease/natural-organic- ticity, avoiding discussion entirely of local supplier
personal-care-product-market.asp
b
relationships, farming methods, on-field expertise,
https://www.mintel.com/press-centre/food-and-drink/generation-z-set-to-impact-
the-future-of-food-and-drink-innovation protocols of giving-back or economic fairness,

45

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 Fragrance Futurology: 10 Ways Farm-to-Table Will Impact Perfume’s Next Decade

As consumers look for more authentic storytelling, brands will have to provide honest, organic and humle narratives in their marketing messages.

instead promoting hyperbolized and exoticized menus created, started giving regular people
visions of agricultural mundanity. In more sombre access to the ingredients that had given chefs
fashioning, London-based Ostens present LMR natu- their competitive advantage—and chefs lost
rals in “Préparations,” marking the country of origin, their edge … When did where food comes from
supplier and the concentration of the hero ingredient start to matter more than how it tastes?”4
on each bottle; best-in-class is Sana Jardin, describ-
ing itself as “the world’s first socially conscious,
luxury fragrance house,” flagshipping The Orange
Where We’re Going
Blossom Project with agency Nest to help fund train- It can certainly be argued that championing oils
ing, recycling and business strategy for low-income and absolutes in their “nearly naked” state could
female farmers in north-west Morocco. degrade the importance of novelty in smelling in
If farm-to-bottle does evolve from its current form favor of austere geography and ethical pomposity. At
in perfumery, it is sensible to study the concept’s the same time, it cannot be ignored that “the moral
maturation within food for pitfalls and parallels. needle has moved toward food that is organic, food
Food writer Corby Kummer offers a countercultural that is local, food that supports a farmer whose
critique of today’s restaurant scene by lamenting that name you know, and, perhaps above all else, food
that has been affected by as little human interven-
“I used to dream of being able to go to a tion as possible,” words from writer Rebecca Tucker
restaurant near where I live that would serve that could apply equally well to scent and echoed
the freshest and most local vegetables nearly by Givaudan perfumer Nadège Le Garlantezec, who
naked, so that diners could taste them in their believes that “consumers want scents that are closer
just-picked glory rather than lost in cloakings to real nature, real taste, reality. To have something
of purslane pesto and thick almond romesco close to the source.”5
sauce … It feels particularly misleading when The following predictions are based on the
excessive earnestness is a cover for fatally assumption that consumer appetite for origin points
unimaginative, formulaic food … Then farmers’ will blow downstream at its current rate concerning
markets, spurred by the very awareness those the value of naturals, the value of individual stories

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PF Full Page.indd 1 2/26/19 10:17 AM
 Fragrance Futurology: 10 Ways Farm-to-Table Will Impact Perfume’s Next Decade

and the continuing interrogation of what creativity

means today:
• Tougher regulation on claims
Suppliers and brands will come under much
greater scrutiny for ingredient claims and, if your
If farm-to-bottle does evolve
company is touting luxury materials from specific from its current form in
locations to push up price and kudos, there will be
regulation to enforce proof and transparency of con- perfumery, it is sensible to
centration to avoid mis-selling and appropriation.
Fines and consumer mistrust will follow.
study the concept’s matura-
• Death of traditional gourmand tion within food for pitfalls
Fantasy notes aren’t really possible with the and parallels.
traditional natural palette; given the ubiquity of
gourmand profiles across the board, there is great
possibility that the connotations of man-made foodi-
instead of announcements about CSR personnel and
ness in scent will shift from nostalgia to cheapness
marketing booklets.
and fakeness in the next few years.
• Explosion of local growers
• Greater demands on terroir
Like in wine, the value of local agriculture and
Consumers will expect proof of why expensive
the specific profiles it can produce will spike a re-
terroir equals better-smelling products. It will not
emergence in small-output regional plant farming in
simply be enough to assert that Haitian vetiver is the
states that have long abandoned it, like the UK.
best in the world, houses will have to show olfactory
evidence that the crop they are flaunting has a truly • Need for agronomists
unique olfactive to validate the cost. With a greater diversity of farms in circulation,
and greater expectation placed on the quality of their
• Farmers gain power share and followings
output, the industry will need more agronomists to
The increasing interest in the back of the supply
build on the limited literature that is available for
chain over polished store fronts will put a great
perfumery materials.
deal of pressure on houses and raise the question
of whether they’re actually needed at all. As more • The job of perfumer will be at risk
brands invest in farming activities for communica- Whilst creative services may appear safe in the
tion purposes, and the supply chain continues to face of artificial intelligence, increased mechaniza-
shorten, expect farmers to gain soft power along tion of creative processes, such as predicting the
with social media followings. next hit smell with big data, coupled with a compass
change towards pure essential oils untouched
• Farm-to-consumer trade spikes
by laboratories could put the job of perfumer in
Inspired by farmers’ markets, more consumers
jeopardy. Only the apex of the creative economy will
will actively seek out direct-to-source operations,
survive, and perfumers will be forced to think more
preferring to buy rose oil as raw and pure as possible
creatively or not work as a perfumer at all.
from the hands that made it, rather than in an identi-
cal bottle with a brand name put on top. References
• Wane of brand storytelling 1. Ellen Burney, ‘Clean Beauty: Everything You Need To Know’,
The domino effect of Instagram influencers and https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/clean-beauty-guide
YouTube personalities was built from desire for 2. Cinnamon Janzer, ‘The History of the Farm to Table
authentic stories from real people – the opposite Movement’, https://upserve.com/restaurant-insider/history-farm-
of 90s celebrity sheen. The storytelling capacity of table-movement/
brands, spinning content from board rooms, will be 3. James McWilliams, ‘The Future Of Farm-To-Table’, http://
greatly diminished in favor of honest, organic and dailypitchfork.org/?p=737
altogether more humble narratives. 4. Corby Kummer, ‘Is It Time to Table Farm-to-Table?’, https://
www.vanityfair.com/culture/2015/05/farm-to-table-what-does-it-
• Demand for tangible sustainability results
mean-anymore
With greenwashing still rife in in the entire con-
5. Rebecca Tucker, ‘It’s Time to Rethink Farm-to-Table, and
sumer products sector, public appetite will demand the Future of 'Good' Food’, https://www.vice.com/en_ca/
more real results and less PR talk; more shovels article/9k4kn7/its-time-to-rethink-farm-to-table-and-the-future-of-
on the ground and one more funded greenhouse, good-food

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PF1905_Bulliqi_fcx.indd 48 4/8/19 3:10 PM

 318-215-1456
www.NatAdv.com

p000_pf1905_natadv_vanilla pudding.indd 1 4/1/19 12:56 PM

 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.

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PF1905_Bleimann_fcx.indd 50 4/8/19 3:26 PM

 History and Socio-Economic Impact
The author examines the socio-economic impact of
rose oil production and how it supports farmers in
Turkey, Bulgaria and other countries.

*This report was published from the Socio-Economic Reports

compiled by the International Federation of Essential Oils and
Aroma Trades (IFEAT). The study for this report was conducted
in 2018 and updated in 2019.

BY KIM BLEIMANN, Chairman & CEO, Berjé

here are four major surrounding the city of Isparta in the southwest
species of rose plants part of the country, and the Valley of Roses cen-
which are cultivated for indus- tered around the Stara Zagora and the Plovdiv
trial applications: areas of Bulgaria. In both regions, we have the
• Rosa x damascena Mill., Ottomans (who controlled these regions until
• Rosa centifolia, Bulgaria’s independence in March of 1878) to thank
• Rosa alba and for the impetus for planting and production.
• Rosa sertata x rosa rugosa.
Turkey
Today, we can locate production in Iran, Although roses and rose oil have for centuries
Afghanistan, China, Bulgaria, Turkey, Morocco figured prominently in Anatolian culture, the first
and India. In Morocco, damascena is the variety commercial rose essential oil distillery plant was
that is mainly cultivated, while in China the rugosa commissioned only in 1934/1935. “Rose essential
variety yields a very different quality than the com- oil production is a really tough and labor-intensive
merically important damascena essential oil upon, activity carried out by family farms without
which this report will focus. high-income expectation. Although because of all
In essence, this report will impart no new these challenges, rose essential oil production still
knowledge about the various productions around exists because it is a traditional local product and
the world, but it will compile and summarize a part of cultural heritage, and provides a certain
the excellent work by Peter Greenhalgh, Hasan income to its producers,” Givag and Kant clearly
Ali Kinaci, Liat Murat Barbut, F. H. Giryel, state in their 2010 report.1 At that time, there were
M. C. Omerci Kartin, Juliana Ognyanova and some 10,000 families involved in the production
Primrose Wilson. Others will also be noted in the of ca.1,400 kg of oil. Most rose flower production
bibliography. comes from smallish family plots of less than a
The figures on each of these regions are at best hectare which supply numerous distillation facili-
tenuous approximations. The two most significant ties.2 One would say that in the past eight years
regions for Rosa damascena continue in their the production has increased in conjunction with
historical centers: Turkey, primarily in the region demand and significantly higher prices.

51

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 Rose Oils: History and Socio-Economic

The six major distillers who produce +/- 65% of

Turkey’s essential oil are Sebat United, Gulbirlik,
Robertet, IFF, Ercetin and Biolandes. Between eight
and 10 other companies comprise the balance. Each
year some 7,000-8,000 MT of roses are converted to
oil (1,400 kg) and rose concrete, and subsequently
absolute (6,000 kg and 1,000 kg respectively in
2013).3 Based on 2017 numbers one can extrapolate
the value of this business to be approximately:

1,400 kg oil @ $11,000.00 kg = $15,400,000

10,000 kg concrete @ $1,364.00 kg = $13,640,000
5,000 kg absolute @ $3,220.00 kg = $16,100,000
Total: $45,140,000

This is supporting 10,000 families, that is, +/-

45,000-50,000 people plus more than 15 factories
and countless exporters.4

Bulgaria
Similarly, in Turkey, rose growing dates back to
the Ottomans who built upon an existing culture
of over 350 years; it can be assumed that the rose
plants were brought to Europe by returning crusad-
ers from Persia. With the collapse of the communist
system in and around 1992, the government central-
ized Bulgarska Rosa organization splintered into
numerous privately held companies. There is some
The first commercial rose oil distillery plants were commissioned in 1934/1935
concern that the quality/yields may have deteriorated in Turkey. In 2010, 10,000 families were involved in the production of ca.1,400
since this time; the state-run organizations closely kg of oil.
controlled the nursery feed-stock and all aspects of
production which resulted in a consistent quality Although there is a trend to larger rose planta-
from all of the growing regions. There is adequate tions by several of the more significant distillers,
evidence suggesting that this consistency has been more than 7,000 families in the mountainous and
compromised. That there has been the recent intro- semi-mountainous areas—most of them coming
duction of Rosa centifolia into Bulgaria, corroborates from minority population groups—earn their income
this disturbing fact. from oil plant cultivation. However, there has been

F-1. Price/kg for Bulgarian rose essential oil from 2012 to Q1 2019

16,000

14,000

12,000
$USD / kg.

10,000

8,000

6,000

4,000

2,000

0
Q1 12

Q2 12

Q3 12

Q4 12

Q1 13

Q2 13

Q3 13

Q4 13

Q1 14

Q2 14

Q3 14

Q4 14

Q1 15

Q2 15

Q3 15

Q4 15

Q1 16

Q2 16

Q3 16

Q4 16

Q1 17

Q2 17

Q3 17

Q4 17

Q1 18

Q2 18

Q3 18

Q4 18

Q1 19

Rose
R ose Oil
Oil Bu
Bu

Source: Berjé

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PF1905_Bleimann_fcx.indd 52 4/8/19 3:27 PM

 an ever-increasing shortage of labor during the har-
vesting period, in part due to migration. Estimates
are that there are more than 12,000 people who work
in the rose industry year-round, while during harvest
time in May to mid-June, weather depending, these
numbers swell to some 40,000 pickers, harvesting
around 3,500 to 4,000 hectares of rose plantations.5
Since Bulgaria’s entrance into the EU in 2007, new
wage structures have put considerable stress on pro-
duction costs. The availability of low-cost Romany
labor cannot be overstated in mitigating more
dramatic price increases.
Using very loose approximations for 2017, we
would guestimate production to have been based
upon a harvest of 11,000/12,000 MT of flowers:
+/- 2,400 kg oil @ $11,000 kg = $26,400,000
+/- 2,000 kg concrete @ $1,600 kg = $3,200,000
200 kg absolute @ $3,000 kg = $600,000
Total: $30,200,000
F-1 shows price/kg for Bulgarian rose essential oil
from 2012 to Q1 2019.

Production in Other Countries

Historically, Iran may be one of the first producers
of rose essential oil, though rose water is their signa-
ture product. This precious rose water, so culturally
important to this country, was first produced by the
Persian physician, Avicennia, in the 10th century.
Damask rose is commonly called the Flower of the
Prophet Mohammed figuring prominently in holy as
well as medicinal contexts.
It is reported that some 13,000-15,000 hectares are
tended by some 500 farmers (this number seems too
few perhaps); the numbers are not available as to how
many people are involved with the actual harvest and
production. As in Bulgaria and Turkey, these farms
are generally small land holdings centered around
the major producing areas of Kashan, Keman, Shirz
and Kerminshah. The production of essential oil may
be only 200 kg annually but the production of rose
water is massive, +/- 75/85 m litres.6 Significant infla-
tion resulting from economic sanctions has already
affected price and production, though most of their
crop is consumed internally rather than exported.
Morocco is an important producer of pre-
dominantly Rosa damascena. Annual production
is approximately 2,000 MT of flowers employing
6,000 small farmers. In 2017 rose petal prices were
+/- $1.80 kg with the women pickers being paid $0.40
per kg for their labor.7 Their major production is of
concrete, rather than essential oil.
Rose cultivation in China dates to the 13th
century with Mongolians of the Yuan Dynasty
and then French missionaries in the 18th century.
Production today is primarily in the higher altitudes

53

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 Rose Oils: History and Socio-Economic

In Bulgaria, rose essential oil production comes from the more than 7,000 families that live in the mountainous and semi-mountainous areas.

of Yunnan Province. It is perhaps, in the past 12-15 facilities. As much as 100-120 kg of oil is likely
years that commercialization of their production finding its way to Europe.10 Dated information sug-
has been organized. Rose essential oil and impor- gests that more than 400 farmers are involved in the
tant quantities of rose water are produced for the dangerous area of eastern Afghanistan.
cosmetic industry. Production in 2017 has been esti- Rose essential oil, rose concrete/absolute and rose
mated at +/- 700-800 kg of Centifolia essential oil.8 water are used in a wide variety of consumer prod-
The IFEAT Study Tour in 2014 visited the Yunnan ucts. Cosmetics, perfumes, food flavoring, religious
Heng Feng Rose Perfumery Company which has incantations and aromatherapy are a few using this
been mainly working with the Rugosa variety; in “Queen of Oils.” Many thousands are involved in its
the past five years there have been plantings of Rosa manufacture while millions enjoy its splendor. And,
rugosa with promises of increases to follow. The it is of significant economic importance to these
oil which we have seen from China does not yet producing areas and their populations.
compare favorably with Bulgarian or Turkish oil.
References:
Give them time. Figures on people involved and costs
1. Giray, F H, and C Omerci Kart. “Economics of Rosa damascena
are not available.
in Isparta, Turkey.” Bulgarian Journal of Agricultural Science,
India also produces rose products. It has been
vol. 18, no. 5, pp. 658–667. 2012.
suggested that rose production dates to the 16th
2. Kinaci, Hasan Ali. (2010, September). Essential Oils of Turkey:
century during the Mughal Empire. Today ca Cultivation, Industry, and Trade. Paper presented at the IFEAT
2,500-3,000 hectares of Rosa damascena are under International Conference, Marrakech, Morocco. Conference
cultivation from which +/- 200 kg of oil and larger Proceedings, pp. 105–117.
quantities of rose water are produced. The oil com- 3. Barbut, Liat Murat. (2014, September). An Overview of the
pares favorably in composition to Bulgarian oil.9 Essential Oils Industry in Turkey. Paper presented at the IFEAT
The most interesting new production is happen- International Conference, Rome, Italy. Conference Proceedings,
pp. 147-155.
ing in Afghanistan since about 2010 when German
4. Ibrahim Isidan (personal communication, May 10, 2017)
economic and a German NGO, German Agro Action
interests, and U.S. aid programs began funding the 5. Peter Greenhalgh (personal communication, August 30, 2017)

project. The aim was to employ similar farming 6. Primrose Wilson (personal communication, April 28, 2017)

techniques on plants to replace the production of 7. Jalal Charaf (personal communication, April 27, 2017)
poppies/heroin. 8. Peter Greenhalgh (personal communication, June 26, 2017)
There are as much as 3,000 hectares planted 9. Shawl, A.S. and Robert Adams (2009, July) Rose Oil in
with root stock certainly supplied from Bulgaria. Kashmiri India. Perfumer & Flavorist, 34, 22-25.
The equipment is alleged to have been supplied 10. Dominique Roques (personal communication, May 8, 2017)
by Turkish producers for two or three distillation

54 Ingredients Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

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 World of Flavour & Fragrance

em a l
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ils
lo ia
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es

Stock locations United Kingdom • The Netherlands • China • USA • UAE

co
ol
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aro emic
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June 5-6 2019 Paris, France

Look forward to seeing you on Booth C18

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PF Full Page.indd 1 3/25/19 3:13 PM

 The Global Fragrances Market –
Bringing Fragrances Closer to Consumers
The demand for premium fragrances has bright days ahead, but traditional brands
(especially luxury designer brands) will need to adapt to face the growing competition
from niche and “indie” players.

BY CLOTILDE DRAPÉ, Research Analyst, Euromonitor International

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.

56 Fragrance Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_Drape_fcx.indd 56 4/8/19 3:11 PM

 T
he global fragrances market enjoyed Western Europe, what was once niche perfumery is
another positive year of growth. now turning mainstream. Brands such as Byredo, Le
In 2017, retail sales grew 5.5%, Labo or By Killian are examples of this shift. These
amounting to $49.3 billion, with brands have emerged as disruptors in the industry
a 6.3% compound annual growth and have started leaving the “niche” segment as
rate expected from 2017 to 2022, according to soon as they lost their exclusivity. Acquisition of
Euromonitor International (see F-1). those brands by bigger companies or equity funds
will help driving growth and sales in the long run
Premium Keeps Driving Value Growth in but sometimes at the cost of the brands’ DNA. The
Most Markets industry is now looking into the next generation of
While growth is positive across the category, it disruptors. As consumers become more informed
is unequally distributed among mass and premium and price sensitive, their consumption patterns
segments (see F-2 and F-3). Across most regions, the evolve. Consumers are no longer keen to purchase
premium segment is expected to grow faster than an expensive 120ml fragrance bottle that will mean
the mass segment, retaining the majority of sales in committing to it until the product is finished,
most markets apart from Latin America and Eastern leading to smaller pack sizes, usually going up
Europe where the mass market is growing faster, 100ml. Similar to skin care and color cosmetics,
according to Euromonitor. The demand for premium consumers are looking to tailor products to their
fragrances has bright days ahead, but traditional mood, wardrobe and occasions.
brands (especially luxury designer brands) will need The fragrance industry is going back to basics,
to adapt to face the growing competition from niche stripping away unnecessary ingredients to deliver
and “indie” players. The fragrance industry is now raw, cheaper and tailored products. American
embracing broader beauty and personal care trends brand Ostens recently released five products, which
and adapting better to new consumer demands, not it describes as “preparations,” focusing on one
only in terms of distribution but also in terms of ingredient per preparation that can be layered and
product offerings. tailored for and by consumers. The brand Escentric
Molecules tapped into this personalization segment
Back to Simplicity in 2006, offering fragrances containing the Iso E
Unisex and men’s fragrances have grown in Super aroma-molecule, which adapts to the skin of
popularity, especially among women looking to consumers wearing it. Going forward, the industry
turn away from traditional scents. While there will keep embracing and exploring the raw aspects
is space to keep developing unisex fragrances in of fragrances, which will help establish a sense of
some markets like Latin America or Asia Pacific, in uniqueness to consumers with the additional appeal
more mature markets, such as North America and of cleaner ingredients.

F-1

Source: Euromonitor International

57

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 The Global Fragrances Market – Bringing Fragrances Closer to Consumers

F-2 F-3

Source: Euromonitor International Source: Euromonitor International

Growing Demand for Cleaner Alternatives which areas of the brain light up when people
Consumers are living busier lifestyles; being feel relaxed and calm. The end product is called
mindful and careful of one’s general wellbeing are Functional Fragrance and is meant to be applied to
now priorities for many. Fragrances bring a specific pressure points during moments of stress, alongside
sense of wellbeing and empowermnt, often per- breathing exercises. This new niche segment of the
ceived as uplifting, accompanying consumers from fragrance industry will embrace the trends of the
the start to the end of their day. However, consum- beauty industry and the wellness generation will seek
ers are paying more attention to the ingredients fragrances that make them feel good about them-
in their skin creams and makeup, and fragrances selves inside and out (see F-4).
are no exception. According to WebMD, fragrances The next step is to be on the lookout for cannabis
were the leading cause of skin inflammation in the perfumes, as more cannabis-infused beauty products
United States. The industry is still behind when it enter the market. Cannabis terpenes are known for
comes to clean fragrances and using hypoallergenic having calming, uplifting and stress-relieving effects.
ingredients. Skylar, an American brand, is bring- The market has already started to develop, mainly
ing vegan and free-from fragrances to consumers, dominated by American brands. Malin + Goetz
composed of natural oils and organic sugar cane
alcohol. British brand Awake Organics recently
launched natural vegan perfume oils in a set of two, F-4
designed to be worn separately or layered together,
“depending on the mood, occasion or preference,”
according to the brand’s founder. The brand claims
to have been formulated with mood-enhancing
herbs, wild-crafted resins and essential oils with no
added color or synthetic fragrance. The brand also
suggests that consumers take a moment to “pause,
breathe and channel their energy,” according to the
brand’s founder.
Fragrances will occupy a more important place
in consumers’ lives by being an ally through the day,
allowing them to take a step back and be mindful of
themselves and their environment. Wellness brand
The Nue Co., traditionally selling ingestible supple-
ments, has released an anti-stress supplement in
the form of a fragrance. The brand commissioned
studies involving participants taking MRIs to identify

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PF1905_Drape_fcx.indd 58 4/8/19 3:11 PM

 recently launched a cannabis eau de parfum and services are also a new way for companies to bring
brand Fresh offers Cannabis Santal Eau De Parfum brands directly into homes. Companies such as
for men (but also used by women). Scentbird or Sniph are allowing consumers to
discover new fragrances in the comfort of their own
Potential in Retail to Offer More Immersive homes with smaller pack sizes and cheaper prices.
Experiences
The fragrances category has a competitive Addressing Future Needs
advantage with the opportunity to develop concepts The main challenge for fragrances will be the
around sensory experiences. Brands are embracing growing reluctancy from consumers to commit to
this, and Diptyque, for example, uses pop-ups to one fragrance, allowing them to mix and match,
engage directly with consumers in physical retail. similar to their color cosmetics or skin care.
More traditional retailers such as The Fragrance Consumers desire different formats and sizes to
Shop in the UK are offering “sniff bars,” blending tailor to their specific needs. The industry will also
physical and digital to shop for fragrances, where have to adapt to new lifestyles as consumers grow
consumers can chat with shop assistants in store more mindful of their environment and more con-
but also via live chat or email. French brand Juliette scious of the products they introduce on their skin.
Has a Gun created a fragrance café in partnership
with digital start-up Paperscent offering personalized For more beauty insights from Euromonitor
samples to consumers, presenting a more immer- International, visit blog.euromonitor.com/
sive experience into the brand’s DNA. Subscription beauty-and-personal-care.

59

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 Organoleptic Characteristics
of Flavor Materials
This month’s column features discussions on cognac oil white,
dimethyl sulfoxide, trimethyl pyrazine, 2-ethyl-6-methylpyrazine
and more.
BY JUDITH MICHALSKI
Senior Flavorist, abelei flavors;
jmichalski@abelei.com
Organoleptic Evaluation Panelists
• Gerard Mosciano, Consulting Flavorist
• Deborah Barber, Senior Flavorist, FONA
• Cyndie Lipka, Master Flavorist, Prinova
• Tom Gibson, Director, Flavor Architect, Flavor First Flavors
• Robert Pan, Senior Flavor Chemist, T. Hasegawa USA Inc.
• Alpa Roman, Senior Flavorist, Flavor & Fragrance Specialties
• Bill Aslanides, Senior Flavorist, Synergy Flavors, Inc.
• Aparna Oak, Director of Flavor Innovation, Imbibe

Reproduction
Reproduction in English
in English or any
or any other
other languageofofallallororpart
language part of
of this article
articleisisstrictly
strictlyprohibited.
prohibited.©©
2019 Allured
2016 Business
Allured Media.
Business Media.
60 Flavor Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

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 Cocoa absolute and their ciders. Its beautiful green color is due
Supplier: Robertet to distillation in copper stills and its subsequent
GRAS, CAS# 8002-31-1, Theobroma cacao, natural oxidation with copper.
Odor: @ 100%. Dark, sweet, cocoa, slightly floral, Berjé: www.berjeinc.com
brown and rich with a hint of tobacco.
Taste: @ 50 ppm. Sweet, rich, dark chocolate, brown 3-Hepten-2-one, 10% in PG
and slightly bitter. Supplier: Alfrebro
Possible applications: This fine product will stand on FEMA# 3400, CAS# 1119-44-4
its own and will add rich, indulgent notes to all Natural occurrence: Roasted hazelnut.
shade of chocolate and mocha flavors. It will also Odor: @ 10%. Creamy, coconutlike, blue cheeselike
blend nicely with fruit flavors including orange, and carawaylike.
chocolate, cherry and brown flavors like caramel, Taste: @ 0.5 ppm. Creamy and slightly cheesy.
maple, vanilla, etc. Taste: @ 1 ppm. Rich, creamy, coconutlike, blue
Robertet: www.robertet.com cheeselike and slightly cultured.
Possible applications: This ketone will add rich,
Cognac oil white creamy notes to sweet flavors like coconut and
Supplier: Berjé vanilla as well as to dairy flavors like cream, full-fat
FEMA# 2332, CAS# 8016-21-5, natural milk, whipped cream, dulce de leche, etc. It will
Odor: @ 100%. Winey, alcoholic, sweet and waxy. also add depth to blue cheese, gorgonzola, aged
Taste: @ 2 ppm. Winey, fusel oillike and alcoholic. cheddar, sour cream and cultured butter flavors.
Taste: @ 5 ppm. Fusel oillike, winey, woody and oily. Alfrebro: www.alfrebro.com
Possible applications: Alcoholic flavors includ-
ing wine, beer, brandy, whiskey, rum, cider and (E,Z)-2,6-nonadien-1-ol acetate natural, 1%
tequila are all good applications for this prod- in triacetin
uct. Other areas where it will fit well are banana, Supplier: Natural Advantage
apple, grape, yeast and other fermented flavors. FEMA# 3952, CAS# 68555-65-7
Berjé: www.berjeinc.com Natural occurrence: Honeydew and strawberry.
Odor: @ 1%. Green, waxy, cucumberlike and melon-
Cognac oil green like with a hint of green pepper.
Supplier: Berjé Taste: @ 0.05 ppm. Green, melonlike, vegetablelike
FEMA# 2331, CAS# 8016-21-5, natural and slightly metallic.
Odor: @ 100%. Winey, fusel oillike, woody and Taste: @ 0.1 ppm. Green, waxy, cucumberlike and
alcoholic. vegetablelike.
Taste: @ 2 ppm. Sweet, fruity, winey, woody, fatty Possible applications: Vegetable-like green notes are
Taste: @ 5 ppm. Winey, fermented, woody, slightly the contribution this very potent chemical will
waxy and alcoholic. bring to cucumber, green pepper, chilis and cel-
Possible applications: Like its white counterpart, this ery. At low levels, it will also enlarge the profiles
oil will also be appreciated in the same applica- of honeydew, watermelon, apple, pear, dragon
tions. Because of its fruitier notes, it will fit very fruit, jicama and violet leaf replacers.
nicely into apple, pear and other pomme fruits Natural Advantage: www.natadv.com

61

PF1905_Michalski_fcx.indd 61 4/8/19 3:12 PM

 Organoleptic Characteristics of Flavor Materials

Dimethyl sulfoxide be considered for dark chocolate, maple, beef,

Supplier: Excellentia grill and fire-roasted flavors.
FEMA# 3875, CAS# 67-68-5 FMI: www.flavormaterials.com
Natural occurrence: Apple, beer, cabbage, sweet corn,
milk, malt, onion, oyster, shrimp, tea and tomato. 2-Ethyl-6-methylpyrazine EU
Odor: @ 100%. Onionlike, corn, sulfurous, savory Source: Myrazine LLC
and shellfishlike. FEMA# 3919, CAS# 13925-03-6
Taste: @ 5 ppm. Slightly metallic, sweet cornlike Natural occurrence: Roasted barley, cocoa, coffee,
and brothy. spike lavender, peanut and tea.
Taste: @ 10 ppm. Shrimplike, savory, sea saltlike and Odor: @ 1%. Nutty, roasted and brown with an
cooked vegetablelike. underlying savory nuance.
Possible applications: This material is rather like a Taste: @ 1 ppm. Earthy, nutty, brown and slightly
kinder, gentler version of dimethyl sulfide. It too savory.
will enhance butter, sweet corn and vegetable Taste: @ 2 ppm. Earthy, nutty, brown and slightly
flavors. But with its seafood notes, it will also cocoalike.
enliven shrimp, crab, scallop and other shellfish Possible applications: This delicious pyrazine will
flavors without overwhelming them. shine in nut flavors, especially peanut, pecan,
Excellentia: www.excellentiainternational.com walnut, cashew and hazelnut. It will also add
interesting notes to cocoa, chocolate, coffee,
Coffee isolate baked potato and roasted vegetable flavors.
Supplier: FMI Myrazine LLC: www.myrazine.com
GRAS, Coffea arabica, natural
Odor: @ 100%. Coffee, burnt, ashy, dark and roasted. Trimethyl pyrazine
Taste: @ 0.02%. Coffee, burnt, ashy and roasted. Supplier: Synerzine
Possible applications: Dark, roasted coffee flavors are FEMA# 3244, CAS# 14667-55-1
the prime target for this material. It should also Natural occurrence: Roasted nuts, barley and meat,
bell pepper, coffee, cocoa, rum, popcorn and
tobacco.
Odor: @ 1%. Nutty, earthy, burnt and brown with
shellike notes.
Taste: @ 1 ppm. Brown, earthy, nutty, roasted and
shellike.
Taste: @ 2 ppm. Roasted, nutty, brown, musty and
shellike.
Possible applications: Brown flavors like chocolate,
coffee, malt, peanut, hazelnut, malt, maple,
almond, brown bread, whiskey, rum, roasted
meat and baked potato will all benefit from this
pyrazine.
Synerzine: www.synerzine.com

62 Flavor Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_Michalski_fcx.indd 62 4/8/19 3:12 PM

PF Full Page.indd 1 4/1/19 10:12 AM
 Worldwide Sources
INDIA UNITED KINGDOM

Ad Index
Advertiser Web site Page
A Fakhry & Co. www.afakhry.com  32–33
Aurochemicals www.aurochemicals.com 47
Axxence Aromatic GmbH www.axxence.com 35
Bedoukian Research, Inc. www.bedoukian.com 9
Berjé, Inc. www.berjeinc.com C3
Borregaard Synthesis www.borregaard.com 37
Cilione Srl www.cilione.com 43
Ennolys www.ennolys.com 53
Flavorcon www.Flavorcon.com 62
Fleurchem, Inc. www.fleurchem.com 17
Gulcicek Kimya ve Ucanyaglar Sanayi ve Ticaret A.S www.gulcicek.com 5
Hangzhou Grascent Co., Ltd. www.grascent.com 13
Indukern www.indukern-ffingredients.com 7
International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. www.iff.com 39
Isobionics B.V. www.isobionics.com 19
John Wright www.johnwright.com 21
Mane www.mane.com 23
MilliporeSigma sigma-aldrich.com/flavors-fragrances C2
Natural Advantage www.natadv.com 49
OQEMA/Lansdowne Chemicals Plc ww.oqema.com/en 55
Penta Manufacturing Co. www.pentamfg.com C4
Robertet SA www.robertet.com 15
Shanghai Buychemi Information Technology Co. www.buychemi.com 63
Symrise www.symrise.com 1
Takasago Intl Corp. www.takasago.com/en 27
Vigon International, Inc. www.vigon.com 3
Xiamen Bestally Biotechnology Co., Ltd www.bestally.com.cn 11

64 Worldwide Sources / Ad Index Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_WWS/Ad Index_1st.indd 64 4/8/19 3:13 PM

 Digital Edition Exclusive

Forward Thinking:
Enhanced Scent
Experiences, Part 2
Part 2 explores new entries into the fragrance category with
an emphasis on natural ingredients, multisensory experiences
BY AMY MARKS-MCGEE, and more.
Trendincite LLC; amy@trendincite.com

Launching Pad
Although the fine fragrance market is crowded, new entrants from a
variety of tangential industries are entering the market to compete for
shoppers’ wallets.
Fashion and lifestyle magazine Elle has launched the brand’s first-ever
fragrance named Elle L’Edition. Sold exclusively at The Perfume Shop,
the scent features lemon, mandarin, freesia pear, jasmine, peony, lily of
the valley, rose, peach sandalwood, cedar wood and musk. The Factory
by Steve Madden is the brand’s first fragrance foray and “is all about
how style shifts with every mood, vibe, and feel.” The five fragrances
are youthful and are about self-expression. Delusional Heart features
pink pineapple, spun sugar, jasmine and vanilla and Kiss My Rose has

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.

DE1

PF1905_MarksMcGee_Part2_DE_fcx.indd 1 4/8/19 3:14 PM

 Forward Thinking: Enhanced Scent Experiences, Part 2

notes of red rose petals, geranium and warm woods

while Secret Girls Club has beachy notes of blue
coconut, peony and white amber. She Plays With
Fire highlights bonfire-inspired notes of marsh-
mallow, birch woods and musks and We Need to
Talk contains notes of matcha latte, cucumber and
jasmine petals.
Dollar Shave Club, which was recently
acquired by Unilever, has moved into fragrance
with the launch of Blueprint, a collection of six
colognes available online. Founder and CEO
Michael Dubin, found that 76% of its over 4
million members have more than two colognes Etat Libre d’Orange I Am Trash - Les Fleurs du Déchet is a fragrance constructed from
and 86% of members use different colognes for recycled fragrance industry waste obtained through Upcycling, a new method of
different occasions. Working with Ann Gottlieb, extraction invented by Givaudan. Courtesy of Etat Libre d’Orange.
the Blueprint line highlights two directions – 100
Series “Fresh” and 200 Series “Warm” with three
fragrances for each collection. The Blueprint Natural Fragrances Take A Piece of
100 Series includes Blueprint 101 Sea Spray the Market
& Melon with amber, cardamom, patchouli and Trendincite’s Perfumer & Flavorist “Forward
moss notes, Blueprint 102 Citrusy Bergamot Thinking: The Natural Evolution” article, which
& Lavender with white musk, vetiver, green appeared in April 2018, examined the evolution
freesia and peppercorn notes and Blueprint of naturals and consumers insatiable quest for
103 Lemon, Moss & Amber with Meyer lemon, natural products. Consumers’ interest in natural fine
black pepper, rhubarb and rosemary notes. The fragrance is not waning, and brands are catering
Blueprint 200 Series offers Blueprint 201 Cedar to consumers’ needs with a variety of new natural
& Spicy Cardamom with tonka bean, nutmeg, fragrance introductions. According to Research and
bergamot and rosemary notes, Blueprint 202 Marketso, the global natural fragrance ingredients
Cacao, Vanilla & Suede with cypress, mandarin market was $3.69 billion in 2017 and is estimated to
orange and sandalwood notes and Blueprint 203 reach $5.48 billion by 2023 with a CAGR of 6.81%
Sandalwood & Vetiver with golden musk, tonka during the period. In 2017, natural fragrances grew
bean, sage and cedarwood notes. their sales by 32%, according to the NPD Groupp.
Digital native brand Skylar
is a clean fragrance brand that
uses an organic sugar cane
alcohol base, distilled water
and ingredients sourced from
sustainable farms all over the
world. The fragrances are made
in the United States and contain
no parabens or phthalates and
are cruelty-free, vegan and
hypoallergenic. Skylar founder
Cat Chen launched the brand
in April 2017 and has seen a
2,000% year over year growth.
The newest fragrances are
Capri with notes of bergamot,
neroli, grapefruit, blood orange,
teakwood, sheer vetiver, crystal

o https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/

global-natural-fragrance-ingredients-market-
by-product-application-and-region---forecast-
to-2023-300676477.html
Love, Sylvie is a new natural, seasonal perfume startup, which releases three layerable scents four times a year. p https://www.npd.com/wps/portal/npd/us/news/

Customers can subscribe to receive new seasonal fragrances every three months or purchase one season at a press-releases/2018/us-prestige-beauty-industry-sales-
time. Bindi, Isle and Jade fragrances shown. Courtesy of Love, Sylvie. rise-6-percent-in-2017-reports-the-npd-group/

DE2 Fragrance Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_MarksMcGee_Part2_DE_fcx.indd 2 4/8/19 3:14 PM

 musk, dewy rose and muguet and Willow with In addition to natural perfumes, sustainability is
a woodsy base of benzoin tree and cedarwood a global phenomenon and an important concern in
topped with bright green notes and galbanum. today’s economy. Trendincite’s Perfumer & Flavorist
Gwyneth Paltrow’s Goop lifestyle brand launched “Forward Thinking: Haste Makes Waste” article,
Edition 04 - Orchard as the final scent for the which appeared in April 2019, explored sustain-
brand’s four projected seasonal fragrances. It is able products and services. Givaudan, Etat Libre
described as “sun-warmed apricot, fresh hay, and d’Orange and Ogilvy Paris have collaborated
dry earth” with grasses, herbs, flowers sandalwood to create I Am Trash - Les Fleurs du Déchet
and orris root. Free People, the bohemian apparel perfume, which is a fragrance constructed from
and lifestyle brand, debuted the 1809 line of three recycled fragrance industry waste. It is both a work
natural fragrances that are free of synthetic ingre- of art and a political statement about waste and the
dients, harsh chemicals, parabens, phthalates, unsustainable practices happening in the fragrance
sulfates and colorants. The fragrances are blended industry. “The idea for the fragrance was to create
with Brazilian sugar cane alcohol and are 100% beauty from the miasma (a highly unpleasant or
cruelty-free and vegan, as well as dermatologist and unhealthy smell or vapor) and the fragrance notes
allergy-tested. C (Camp) is a spicy blend of star were obtained through a new method of extrac-
anise, Moroccan cedarwood, Haitian vetiver and a tion invented by Givaudan called Upcycling,” notes
hint of fresh watermelon while S (Surf) features Elizaveta Krivocheeva, training and promotion
fruity and floral notes with a vanilla and Brazilian specialist at Etat Libre d’Orange. With a cheeky
tonka bean base and Z (Zen) is an exotic, woodsy tagline “The Most Wanted Scent Made From
blend of Australian eucalyptus, sandalwood Pacific, The Unwanted,” the fragrance is juicy, fruity and
Paraguayan guaiac wood, Indonesian patchouli and sparkling with apple essence, gariguette strawberry,
Brazilian tonka bean. bitter orange and green tangerine.
Love, Sylvie is a new natural, seasonal perfume
startup, which releases three layerable scents four
times a year. Customers can choose to either sub-
scribe to receive new seasonal fragrances every three
months (starting at $40 per quarter) or purchase
just one season at a time. The fragrances are made
with a base of organic sugar cane alcohol and are
high-quality, cruelty-free, paraben and phthalate-
free. The Summer 2019 collection features Isle (a
tropical island paradise with warm coconut, mango,
grapefruit with hints of jasmine and tonka bean),
Jade (a green cool woodsy escape with notes of
Italian bergamot, cedar, pine and a hint of green tea)
and Bindi (a luscious floral rainforest of plumeria,
hibiscus, Sicilian orange and passion fruit).
Laurent Delafon and Chris Yu founded Ostens,
a “new concept in perfumery,” based on the Latin
verb “ostendere,” meaning “to show, to exhibit.”
Delafon and Yu work with IFF and Laboratoire
Monique Rémy (LMR) to showcase hero ingredients
that traditionally were reserved for the perfume
industry. Ostens offers two types of products -
Préparations (Perfume Oil) and Impressions
(Eaux De Parfum). The perfume oils are designed
to be used as a scent by itself or layered with other
scents. The Impressions are fragrances created by
IFF perfumers inspired by the hero ingredients.
There are currently five hero ingredients available:
Cashmeran Velvet, Cedarwood Heart Virginia,
Jasmine Absolute, Patchouli Heart and Rose Oil
Isparta and the details of each ingredient, country
Fragrance industry icon and vet Annette Green debuted “Spritzing to Success
of origin, supplier and concentration are listed on With the Woman Who Brought an Industry to Its Senses” book that traces
the website. Green’s 40-year fragrance journey. Courtesy of Annette Green.

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 Forward Thinking: Enhanced Scent Experiences, Part 2

Szent water features a BPA free PET bottle with a resealable overlap cap around the neck made from a polymer infused with natural oils that
replicate the experience of drinking flavored water without the use of any additives to the liquid itself. The water is available in Passionfruit,
Tangerine, Tropical, Pineapple and Mint flavors. Courtesy of Szent.

Knowledge Is Power Blurred Lines

Historically, the fragrance industry has been Beverages are using scents to enhance the
known to be secretive. However, over the last decade, multisensory olfactory experience, blurring the lines
the art and science behind the fragrance industry has between fragrances and flavors.
been slowly revealed. Books are an educational way Szent is a new and unique beverage that launched
for industry professionals and consumers to explore exclusively on Amazon in October 2018. The Los
the history and science of fragrance as discussed Angeles-based brand debuted five core flavors:
in Trendincite’s Perfumer & Flavorist “Forward Passionfruit, Tangerine, Tropical, Pineapple and
Thinking: Fragrance Frenzy” article, which appeared Mint. Each BPA free PET bottle features a resealable
in June 2016. Books and exhibits focusing on fra- overlap cap around the neck made from a polymer
grance continue to be introduced. infused with natural oils that replicate the experience
French fragrance collective Nez, the journalists of of drinking flavored water without the use of any
Nez, the Olfactory Magazine, have launched the “Le additives to the liquid itself.
Grand Livre du Parfum, a Big Book of Perfume,” UK-based company Smith & Sinclair designed
which explores perfume’s history, ingredients and a line of Edible Fragrances that are “an aromatic
production methods. Bulgari released “The Perfume alcoholic vapor in a light, non-stick formula that
of Gems” book, which focuses on “the intimate can be applied directly to the skin.” With a kitsch
bonds that connect Rome, the gem roads, and the slogan, “Lick your scent,” there are three scents
world of perfumes.” Fragrance industry icon and offered: Cherry Blossom & Mandarin, Pear &
vet Annette Green debuted “Spritzing to Success Vanilla and Watermelon & Citrus. In addition,
With the Woman Who Brought an Industry to Its Smith & Sinclair developed the Edible Flaming
Senses” book that traces Green’s 40-year fragrance Hot Choc Candles in two flavors: Candy Cane
journey. A portion of the book sales will go to the Peppermint and Spiced Orange. Once the candles
Fashion Institute of Technology to support students have melted, the wax, made of coconut oil and raw
pursuing a bachelor’s degree in fragrance and beauty cocoa butter, is meant to be poured into your hot
marketing and the Annette Green Perfume Museum chocolate. L’Occitane collaborated with pastry chef
at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising Pierre Hermé for the 86 Champs Collection, a
in Los Angeles. series of eight fragrances named for the address of
Not a book, but a notable educational exhibit is the L’Occitane + Pierre Hermé concept teahouse in
“Perfume & Seduction” on display at Hillwood Paris. In collaboration with IFF, the Tippling Club
Estate, Museum & Gardens in Washington, D.C. in Singapore offers a new 2019 creative cocktail
from February 16, 2019 through June 9, 2019. The menu titled “Perfume: The Story of a Cocktail”
exhibit explores the history of perfume bottles and offered from Dec. 2018 through till the end of
the ritual of bathing. It features a private collection March 2019. The perfume themed menu features
of 150 pieces from Givaudan that trace the form and 12 cocktails: Aphrodisiac, Bloody Cologne, Blush
function of perfume bottles through its evolution. of Roses, Comforting, Cream of Sandalwood,

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 “Perfume: The Story of a Cocktail” is Tippling Club’s new cocktail menu designed in collaboration with IFF that features 12 perfume themed cocktails. The Oud & Lust
cocktail highlights tuberose absolute, oud, vanilla bean extract, distilled clay, mastic, orange, cognac and shitake. Courtesy of Tippling Club.

Crispy Myrrh, Crown of Tuberose, Dash of Spicy, fragrance technology, natural fragrances, gender-
Elixir of Orris, Frangipani & Salt, Osmanthus fluid launches, hero ingredients, eye-catching
Blossom and Oud & Lust. Each cocktail features packaging, book releases and olfactory beverages
top notes, mid notes and base notes to create a are all examples of current activity responding to
multisensory experience. meet the demand. Expect to see more demand for
natural fragrances, a focus on hero ingredients,
Eternal Search for Scent Experiences more gender-fluid releases and technology tools
Fine fragrance is a competitive landscape and to enhance the fragrance experience. Fragrance
brands continue to jockey for position. In today’s innovation is a key to the success of brands and
experiential economy, consumers are continually fragrance houses.
searching for scent experiences. Retailers, custom

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 Digital Edition Exclusive

Open Sourcing Smell Culture:

Past and Future Models for Perfumery
Like the media industry, the perfume business is in a moment of transition – one with
increasing democratization by consumers and independent creators.

BY SASKIA WILSON-BROWN, Founder and Executive Director of The Institute for Art and Olfaction.

T he perfume industry is in the middle

of a big transition; a move towards
this generation’s favorite buzzword:
Democratization. This move, like
others before it, is fueled by a culture of
information sharing online, and new organizations
only too eager to help. Moreover, as laypeople are
discovering perfumery as a creative practice, they
are increasingly questioning existing systems.
intellectual property, which would serve both
to encourage this flourishing outsider perfumer
culture and facilitate progress.
Although making change to given systems can be
an unnerving process, there are other sectors to look
to for insights. Most saliently, the media.

Media: Then and Now

In the mid-2000’s, television and film media
Change is imminent, but any industry attempts were weathering a transition from analog to digital.
at adaptation will fester if it doesn’t also address Optimistic techno-futurists foretold a people’s revolu-
the two-headed beast of secrecy and exclusion. In tion through an accessible, affordable, digitized, and
short, we need to create new systems to protect therefore truly open media landscape.

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.

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 Founded in 2005, Al Gore’s Current TV aimed
to prove them right with the first democratic cable
network. Indeed, Current relied almost entirely on
Viewer Created Content (VC2) or templatized edits of
snippets of Citizen Journalism (CJ) to feed the on-air
stream. This democratization of the media—under-
stood as a removal of traditional gatekeepers—was
spoken about reverentially as a quasi-moral calling,
all made possible thanks to new access to digital
filmmaking tools.
Indeed, investing in gear and software was
now anybody’s game. Cheap and ubiquitous video Understanding that creator-owned content was part of the media future,
cameras and software allowed almost everyone to Disney acquired the YouTube-reliant content creator and aggregator
participate. Meanwhile, an open knowledge base Maker Studios, in 2014.
was growing online, accompanied by new structures
designed to meet the increasing demand for viewer-
ship: Vimeo (2004), YouTube (2005) and a plethora the YouTube-reliant content creator and aggregator
of new, niche film festivals. The independent media Maker Studios.
scene was flourishing. This new system is complicated, but it’s starting to
But this explosion of content came with plenty of work. One of the reasons it works is because all the
problems. There was simply, and suddenly, too much transactions, acquisitions, licensing deals and revenue
media for the existing paying platforms to handle. share agreements are supported by clear structures
While TV networks, rental services and theatrical for the use and protection of intellectual property (IP).
systems created distribution funnels, P2P sharing Without these structures, even the biggest content
systems complicated matters further by allowing creators would never have had a chance, simply
for uncontrolled unpaid distribution (e.g. piracy). because they would have had no defensible rights.
Moreover, every meaningful piece of video was Without clear IP structures, they would have had
joined online by twice the amount of amateurish nothing to sell. Moreover, IP in media has adapted to
content. The good stuff – no matter how you defined and allowed for change and supported—for the most
it – was too easily lost in the noise. part—the proliferation of a free media. So, in the
The result of all this quickly became a simple interest of later applying this to perfumery, let’s briefly
problem of livelihood. Existing power players were look at how protections work in media.    
losing views to on-demand, user-generated content,
and newly minted creators were unable to earn a IP Structures
living within the “old” way of doing things. And yet, The traditional transactional way of acquir-
14 years after the launch of YouTube—and in the ing media content works in two ways. The first is
midst of a very real shift in content consumption (see the “classic” acquisitions model where content is
2017’s Nielsen ratings for proof)—we’ve come to a purchased and ownership is – simply – transferred,
time where these new structures are working, for the in perpetuity. On the other hand, the licensing
most part, pretty well. Newer online platforms have model preserves ownership but allows content to be
figured out how to pay their creators through ad- exploited in individually-negotiated sectors (ex. edu-
sales revenue sharing, and older media companies cational licenses, territory-based theatrical licenses,
have adapted by embracing the one-time threat as a distribution platforms or product licenses).
major asset, as Disney did in 2014, when it acquired These interdependent models are reliant on the
baseline concept of ownership and authorship and
are supported by intellectual property law. However,
ideological concerns around the creative restrictions
of copyright led to the development of the “copyleft”
movement,2 which challenged restrictive ownership
models through new licenses that allowed people
to freely distribute and modify existing work, often
with the stipulation that the same rights be preserved
down the line.
The development of copyleft ideologies eventu-
Founded in 2005, Current TV aimed to be the first democratic cable network,
relying almost entirely on Viewer Created Content or templatized edits of ally spawned what has now become the de facto
snippets of Citizen Journalism. standard: Creative Commons (CC). Founded by

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 Open Sourcing Smell Culture: Past and Future Models for Perfumery

Lawrence Lessig in 2001, Creative Commons

publishes a series of licenses that allow creators to
communicate which rights they reserve and which
they waive for the benefit of others. A piece of video
released under a CC license could – for instance – Protecting original works
allow others to use it freely with the preservation of
comparable rights, with attribution, or in a number of authorship such as
of other ways. These licenses are an expansion of
existing models and can still be defended using
literature, movies and
copyright law. architecture, one could
Interestingly, copyright law itself also offers
systems for sharing or working with other people’s reasonably assume that
content. Fair Use allows third parties to use content
without the copyright holder’s permission, under
copyright protection
the condition that they meet several pre-determined could also apply to scent
benchmarks (for instance that the work be satire or
educational in nature, or that only a small portion of formulation.
the work be used).
Public Domain, for its part, refers to work whose
intellectual property rights have expired, are inap-
plicable, or have been forfeited in some way. Early Ravat in 2015) and platforms like The Good Scents
movies, formulas in Newtonian physics, some soft- Company, Basenotes and Fragrantica.
ware code and cultural goods like recipes are often in We’re also experiencing the same qualitative
the public domain. issues that media weathered in the early days of
As varied as they may be in ideology and execu- digital—I don’t know what the perfume equivalent
tion, these structures all have in common that they is of a cat video, but I’m pretty sure I’ve smelled an
are legally defensible. They also allow people to olfactory Rick-roll—as well as the concurrent com-
enjoy their right to create and to build upon or quote plaints that “good” perfume is being lost in the noise
creative influences, while protecting the people creat- of ever-increasing release schedules.
ing the work in the first place. Most crucially, they Even the human narratives are the same. On the
support a free media. one hand: “They’re excluding us!” and on the other:
With the exception of copyright protection, “These people aren’t real perfumers!” (the subtext:
the perfume industry landscape today is strikingly “We want to make a living!” and “Our very liveli-
similar to the media landscape at the dawn of hoods are at stake!”).
YouTube. Most of the data points correspond. The narrative is strikingly similar. Given how it
In fact, we’re currently witnessing a “democra- played out in media, it might be wise to consider
tization” of creation. New perfumers are able to a shift towards creative decentralization as a
access materials thanks to suppliers like Perfumers possible future.
Apprentice and Perfumers’ World, while information To help the industry weather this shift, we
is being freely shared through organizations like The need rational, realistic and accessible systems for
Institute for Art and Olfaction (which I founded in sharing that also support the multifaceted indi-
2012), Smell Lab (co-founded by filmmaker Klara vidual impulse that drives creativity, and the human

At what point does a copy become its own thing? The Chanel logo has been used in a variety of products, increasingly removed from initial use and purpose.

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 desires for sustainable incomes and peer recogni-
tion. In order to achieve this, it becomes crucial to
address the glaring difference between media and
perfume, the very backbone upon which any system
must be based: Protective structures that support
intellectual property rights. As it stands, the existing
structures (trademark, patent and copyright) are
not clear enough to be functional in this increas-
ingly complex industry.
Of these structures, trademark is perhaps the
most proven protective strategy. Identifying the
source of the goods of one party from those of
others, trademark applies to logos, brand names
and slogans. From a formulation perspective, it
The variety of copyright and sharing structures that are available. Creative
could also apply to company-specific environmental Commons provides an opportunity for the fragrance industry to create
scenting under the so-called “trade dress” rubric sharing licenses.
(for more, please explore Charles Cronin, Claire
Guillemin and Christophe Laudamiel’s fascinating
work in this domain). Although this particular effort was made primarily
The second mechanism for protection is patent in the name of commerce, the same process could be
law, covering industrial processes like the develop- engaged in for the sake of history and shared culture.
ment of new molecules. The duration of protection In following this story, it became clear that difficul-
depends on the type of patent granted. Thus, when ties relating to ownership and access would prove to
the patent runs out the “copycats” rush in, creating be the central challenge in any future public-facing
their own versions of a previously captive molecule. recreation or preservation efforts.
Thus, IFF’s Iso E Super is now created and marketed Beyond the question of trademark rights, rela-
by other fragrance houses, under different names. tively simple to unravel by court filings and paper
Finally, we come to copyright. Protecting origi- trails, lies a more complex problem: How does a
nal works of authorship such as literature, movies person or a company assert ownership over an idea?
and architecture, one could reasonably assume Who has the right to a formula when the original
that copyright protection could also apply to scent owners, the original perfumers, and even the original
formulation. However, the cases brought around company are long gone?
Trésor by Lancôme demonstrate that this is not the Potential answers to these questions vary wildly,
norm. Alleged copycats of the perfume were ruled in but one aspect that repeatedly comes up is that
violation of copyright in the Netherlands (Lancôme of fidelity to the original. Nevertheless, even this
vs. Kecofa, 20003), but not in France, where the simplified arbiter of “right” and “wrong” of “real”
courts ruled several times over that fragrance is too and “fake” becomes overly-complex for the simple
subjective to be clearly defined and is therefore not fact that attaining fidelity requires a Byzantine
copyrightable. level of patient research, unfortunately blocked at
almost every opportunity by understandably anxious
Perfume History Matters gatekeepers.  
I became interested in all this because—along In the traditional world of fine fragrance, there is
with Luca Turin and other partners—I’ve been little existing culture of public sharing. Surreptitious
laboriously documenting the re-launch of a historic “sharing” – however – happens all the time, mostly in
perfume: Iris Gris, launched by Jacques Fath in 1946. GC-MS labs. Unfortunately, GC-MS analysis is often
pointless when trying to unlock a historic formula
for the simple fact that it relies on the availability
of an authentic source sample, and age, rarity (and
in some cases reformulations) often make that very
difficult to find.
Furthermore, without access to information about
the formula (including, for instance, the composi-
tion of historic bases), we cannot engage in any
real comparison. We find ourselves in a circle of
In 2000, Lancôme accused Kecofa of copycatting its formula. The Netherlands
ruled in Lancôme’s favor, while France ruled that that fragrance is too mystery, where research grinds to a halt, secrets are
subjective to be clearly defined and is therefore not copyrightable. maintained, and historic reformulation becomes

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 Open Sourcing Smell Culture: Past and Future Models for Perfumery

a question of good nose work based on a “well it’s

the best we’ve got” sort of pragmatism. Poetic and
marketable, but certainly not historically precise. Exploring Open Source Culture
Founded in 2012 on the very principles of open source
Open Sourcing Smell Culture culture, The Institute for Art and Olfaction began
Experiencing these frustrating barriers, a thinking exploring this in earnest in 2018 in a series of events
person can’t help but come to the question of why in partnership with Mediamatic, in Amsterdam. We will
there is no culture of sharing in perfumery. Internet further explore the topic in 2019 and beyond, joining
chatrooms propose the usual suspects: A tradition forces with Christophe Laudamiel, and drawing from
of elitism, resistance to change, Euro-centrism and other experts in the field of I.P., open source culture
a general culture of exclusion. But maybe that’s not
and Creative Commons. The program consists of an
fair. Perhaps, it’s simply due to an understandable
ongoing series of events (our monthly Perfume Design
(and very human) feeling of protectionism, ironically
Challenge, Open Sessions, and more to come), and the
spurred by a lack of actual protection. Since there
development of a usable and public online component,
are no legal structures to support ideas (formulas,
which we hope to unveil in July of 2019. Meanwhile,
in this case) from being copied, the formula holders
have no choice but to revert to the only option left to
we’re collecting willingly-shared formulas and data.
them: Secrecy.
For formulas of perfumes still on the market,
these trade secrets allow businesses to survive. from or remixed. Christophe Laudamiel’s "Sailors"
When it comes to our shared international perfume perfume provides an exemplary model for how this
heritage, however, the lack of publicly accessible can be done.4
knowledge prohibits people from doing far-reaching In addition to encouraging the interchange of
important historical work for the public good. The ideas, a mechanism like this would serve to help
net result is that secrecy becomes a recipe for exclu- usher historic, out-of-production formulas into the
sion and for creative stagnation. public domain.
To change this—and to move culture forward—we The good news is that we already have a model
need to find a new way to think about intellectual courtesy of our friends in media and their enthu-
property and create a structure that would formalize siastic adoption of Creative Commons licensing.
strategies for making derivative, or replicative works. Although Creative Commons relies on copyright
This would give agency to the creators by allowing law to implement (and as we’ve seen, this is nothing
people to confidently share their own work, and – of but clear in perfumery), using this as a launching
course – credit the work of people they’ve borrowed point we can start to model behavior and to create

Fragrance “sharing” often comes in the form of GC-MS analysis but is limited in unlocking historic fragrance formulas.

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 fragrance-industry-specific attribution and sharing
licenses. Where copyright law fails, we could use
contract law by centering information and sharing in
a publicly accessible database, enforcing adherence
to our shared agreements through legally binding
terms and conditions. Eventually, this cultural shift
could usher real, legal change, and prompt the indus-
try to consider fair use and public domain as actual,
desired outcomes.

Final Thoughts
A “riddim” is a publicly shared fragment of music
that songwriters and performers in the Jamaican
dancehall scene are free to make use of in their
own music. Riddims are enthusiastically promoted
and openly used in hundreds of songs and live
performances. It is a riddim, in fact, that propelled
dancehall rapper Sean Paul to win a Grammy Award
in 2004.
Likewise, in early hip-hop, where a rich culture of
sampling musical work combined with an impulse
to create that—for a time—superseded any fear of
legal retribution. The result was a fluid and rapidly
evolving musical genre that has had an undeniable
impact on creative culture from the latter part of the
20th century to now.
Perfumery—at its core—is a creative pursuit,
and creative pursuits require the free flow of ideas
and intellectual resources to progress. If perfume is Beegees: Staying alive, 1977 // Wyclef Jean: We Trying to Stay Alive, 1997
to be understood as a legitimate and contemporary
creative practice, and if it is to thrive, we need to
learn something from those Riddim producers,
For this to work, we need to share with people
those hip-hop emcees and those copyleft pioneers.
within and outside the industry, while simultane-
We need to loosen the industry-wide death-grip
ously protecting the rights of the people who do the
on how we perceive and protect intellectual prop-
creative work. It is only with a more open approach
erty. We need to place our shared historic cultural
that this medium will survive: The successes won’t
knowledge into the public domain, allowing it to be
be based on who does and does not have access to
examined and expanded upon to fit the changing
information, but on efforts to put shared information
face of our world.
to better and better use.
Without information-sharing and transparency
there can be no creative progress. Without progress,
culture stagnates, becomes fossilized, and eventually
becomes irrelevant. Let’s choose a better future.

A riddim is a publicly shared fragment of music that songwriter and References

performers can use. Is there a fragrance equivalent?
1. US TV network viewers (Jan-Dec 2017): 85,946,000 // “Look
What You Made Me Do” by Taylor Swift (August 27, 2018):
909,512,859

2. Copyleft, as a term, was coined by Richard Stallman in his

1985 ‘GNU Manifesto’

3. Source: https://www.wipo.int/wipo_magazine/en/2006/05/
article_0001.html

4. https://www.lofficielusa.com/beauty/this-perfumer-samples-
Similarly, hip-hop culture promoted the sampling and sharing of music. existing-fragrances-but-he-shouts-them-out-too

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 Digital Edition Exclusive

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.

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 A Scent of
New Jersey
Coveted for its medicinal, aromatic and therapeutic properties, lavender is known for its clean and
medicinal aroma due to small amounts of camphor and eucalyptol. A closer look at fresh lavender
flowers reveals some interesting details about the constituents between leaves and flowers.

BY FELIX BUCCELLATO, CEO, Custom Essence Inc.

he University of Cambridge, Lavandula (Chaytor, 1937), recognized 28 species

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew plus many infraspecific taxa arranged in five sec-
recognizes thirty-two species of tions. A new species, L. somaliensis, was described.
Lavandula, plus infra specific taxa It is well known that Lavandula species will
and hybrids (Note: the number of naturally hybridize in the wild, such as Lavandula
species is likely to be higher as history angustifolia crossed with Lavandula spicata.
has shown the closer one looks at any subject the London-based perfumer Charles K. Denny real-
more complicated it becomes). The genus has a ized this and took steps to grow a pure Lavandula
distribution from the Canary Islands, Cape Verde angustifolia from seed in Tasmania in 1921a, which
Islands and Madeira, across the Mediterranean has a similar climate and conditions to the French
Basin, North Africa, South West Asia, the Arabian Alps. The pure lavender angustifolia is free from
Peninsula and tropical North East Africa with a camphor (< 1.0%) which is common to lavender
disjunction to India. hybrids and spicata.

A History of Fresh and Clean a Lavender History Lavender, The genus Lavandula Edited by Maria

Lis-Balchin Taylor & Francis London and New York 2002 and 2004 ISBN
The Latin name Lavandula comes from the 0-203-21652-0

ancient use of this plant to perfume water for (Continued on Page DE17)
bathing, being derived from the Latin word
“lavare,” meaning to be washed. Its aroma has
It seems that the Garden State is living up to its name.
been associated with fresh and clean or just
There are at least six lavender farms in New Jersey:
washed, for centuries.
Lavandula was known to the earliest botanical 1. Hidden Springs, Skillman NJ who was kind enough
writers and early Greek scholars. Theophrastus to let me take some cuttings and provided pictures
(c. 370-285BC) mentioned Lavandula repeatedly and information on their distillation.
in herbal guides and botanical books. One of the
2. Pleasant Valley Lavender Farm in Morganville, NJ
earliest monographs of the genus, De Lavandula
was not published until 1780 (Lundmark, 1780) 3. Mad Lavender Farm in Milford, NJ
At that time only five species and eight varieties 4. Orchard View Lavender Farm in Port Murray, NJ
were known to the author. By 1826, twelve species 5. Busy Bee Farm - Tabernacle, NJ
along with descriptions, geographical distribu-
6. Princeton Lavender - Princeton, NJ
tion, properties and use were published. The third
monograph, A Taxonomic Study of the Genus

DE13

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 A Scent of New Jersey Lavender

T-1. Lavender odor analysis and comparison

CO Lavandin Lavender
Lavender
Prime Odor Lavender & Related Materials Grosso Pure Lavender Lav Flower Lav Lvs
Spike
Bontoux Tasmania
Mint Methyl hexyl ether 0.04 0.04 0.09 0.11
Grass Hexenol cis 3 0.02 0.18 0.04 0.13
Green Alcohol C-6 0.06 0.05 0.16 0.2
Woody Thujene alpha 0.02 0.05 0.21
Pine Pinene alpha 0.47 1.95 0.23 0.14 0.35 0.28
Citrus Sabinene 0.41 0.08 0.08 0.07 0.23
Pine Camphene 0.29 0.59 0.16 0.15 0.07 0.35
Pine Pinene beta 0.21 1.06 0.65 0.09 0.1
Mushroom Amyl vinyl carbinol (1 octen-3-ol) 0.28 0.05 0.51 0.31
Minty Octanone 3 [Ethyl amyl ketone] 0.09 0.05 2.5 1.38 2.02
Banana Butyl butyrate 0.01 0.12 0.17
Citrus Myrcene 0.51 0.78 0.32 1.18 0.52 0.09
Mushroom 3 Octanol 0.4 0.41 0.57
Pine Carene delta 3 0.02 0.13 0.39 1.14
Pear Hexyl acetate 0.13 0.08 0.26 0.62 0.69
Citrus Para cymene 0.09 0.5 0.16 0.15 0.16
Citrus Phellandrene beta 0.49 0.45
Citrus Limonene 2 0.31 0.5 0.5
Medicinal Eucalyptol 5.49 31 0.04 1.7 0.9
Citrus Ocimene cis beta 0.83 0.08 1.71 1.58 2.1
Citrus Ocimene trans beta 1.7 0.07 0.92 1.61
Citrus Terpinene, gamma 0.1 0.24 0.2 0.23
Citrus Sabinene hydrate 0.08 0.09 0.36
Floral Linalool oxide cis 0.1 0.05 0.85 0.29
Floral Linalool oxide trans 0.66 0.14
Floral Linalool 34.68 40.76 40.4 39.22 38.22 0.08
Fruity Amyl vinyl carbinyl acetate 0.43 0.05 0.23
Fruity Octyl acetate 2.03
Medicinal Camphor 7.82 10.87 0.16 2.02 0.19 0.31
Fruity Hexyl isobutyrate 0.18 0.13 0.18
Pine Borneol L 4.83 1.28 1.3 1.00 0.64 1.88
Floral Lavandulol 0.5 2.00 1.21
Floral Terpinen-ol 4 3.76 0.46 2.37 4.53 7.46 0.64
Fruity Hexyl butyrate 0.57 0.35 0.36
Floral Terpineol alpha 0.6 1.18 0.45 1.25
Floral Nerol 0.05 0.05 0.26
Fruity Hexyl 2-methyl butyrate 0.12 0.07 0.8 0.78 0.25
Nutty Cuminic aldehyde 0.27 0.36
Woody Linalyl acetate 28.56 0.75 35.84 23.92 17.51
Pine Bornyl acetate 0.08 0.06
Fruity Lavandulyl acetate 2.18 0.06 1.71 2.26 3.3

DE14 Ingredients Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_Buccellato_DE_fcx.indd 4 4/8/19 3:18 PM

 T-1. Lavender odor analysis and comparison (cont.)
CO Lavandin Lavender
Lavender
Prime Odor Lavender & Related Materials Grosso Pure Lavender Lav Flower Lav Lvs
Spike
Bontoux Tasmania
Fruity Hexyl tiglate 0.12 0.04 0.06 0.15
Fruity Neryl acetate 0.15 0.08 0.53 0.59 0.2
Fruity Geranyl acetate 0.36 0.09 0.85 1.02 0.25
Floral Hexyl caproate 0.13 0.62
Woody Caryophyllene 1.64 1.74 0.62 2.6 3.23 0.12
Hay Coumarin 0.04 0.08 2.16 41.32
Woody Farnesene - trans beta 0.78 0.38 0.27 1.56 3.01
Woody Humulene - alpha caryopyhyllene 0.15
Germacrene D 0.35 0.17 0.17 0.29
Germacrene D pk 2 0.14
Woody Cadinene delta 0.14 0.11 0.06
Woody Bisabolene cis alpha 2.07 0.14
Amber Caryophyllene oxide 0.16 0.23 0.22 0.5 0.8
Woody Cadinene delta 0.07 0.75
Hay 7 Methoxy coumarin=herniarin 1.65 33.34
No Odor Waxes & unknowns 1.05 2.16
Waxes ranging from C28 - C31 abt 10.00

DE15

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 A Scent of New Jersey Lavender

Hidden Springs Lavender Farm is one of six lavender farms in New Jersey. Photo courtesy of the author.

F-1. Coumarin herniarin structures

Coumarin 1,2 Benzopyrone 91-64-5

C9H6O2 - MW 146.14

O O
41% In Lavender CH2CL2 LEAVES Extract
Note 1.5% in CH2CL2 Flower Extract same plant

Herniarin-7-Methoxy Coumarin 531-59-9

C10H8O3 - MW 178

O O O
CH3
35% in Lavender CH2CL2 LEAVES Extract
Note 1.5% in CH2CL2 Flower Extract Same Plant

DE16 Ingredients Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_Buccellato_DE_fcx.indd 6 4/8/19 3:18 PM

 Save the Date
June 2-4, 2020
Miami Beach Convention Center
Miami, FL, USA

www.WorldPerfumeryCongress.com

WPC 2020_SaveTheDate.indd 1 1/9/19 4:08 PM

 A Scent of New Jersey Lavender

A sample of the lavender leaves and flowers were collected and analyzed. Photo courtesy of the author.

(Continued from Page DE13)

Lavender in New Jersey The leaves, on the other hand, have almost none
When I learned about the existence of Hidden of the materials that make up the majority of the
Springs Lavender Farm, within a few miles of my steam distilled essential oil. This is also true of the
home in New Jersey, I could not ignore the opportu- methylene chloride extraction from the same plant
nity for a visit to run some comparative analysis and on the same day. This can easily be seen in the
examine the steam distilled oil fresh from the field, as analysis table. These are the type of significant dif-
well as an opportunity to examine a solvent extrac- ference that I was hoping to find. Normal lavender
tion and comparison of leaves and flowers separately. flowers are composed of terpenes with the major
The owner, Marie Vorhees, was exceedingly gracious items being linalool and linalyl acetate while the
in allowing a visit and sampling of botanicals, as well leaves have practically none but are rich in couma-
as her own steam distilled lavender oil. rin and herniarin (7-Methoxycoumarin).
When I smell fresh lavender picked and crushed The odor difference is significant to the point
from the living plant, I can see a character and that they are almost unrelated. While lavender is
impact that is markedly different from the various a fresh clean and slightly medicinal aroma (due
qualities of commercial lavender oil or any steam to small amounts of eucalyptol and camphor) the
distilled essential oil. It is always a surprise and leaves themselves are dominated by coumarin and
informative to complete a solvent extraction as herniarin (7-methoxycoumarin) which are predomi-
quickly and as directly as possible from the plant. nantly hay, tobacco and somewhat vanilla powder
In this case, I immersed the leaves and flowers like (See F-1).
(separately) directly into the solvent for two While it is possible that other researchers or
reasons. First to minimize the loss of the most industry specialists know this, I can say that this
volatile components, and second to prevent any is not common knowledge and I have not seen a
biological activity changes due to plant enzyme publication that compares leaf extract against flower
action or chemistry (it is difficult to know in extract (I have tried but have not found any publica-
advance, which might occur). tions!) It should also be noted that the coumarin
This research always reveals interesting and and herniarin levels in the solvent extract while low,
informative results. At least that is my hope and in the 1 - 2% range are much higher than the steam
intention. This effort was no exception. As can be distilled oil. It has always been my view that these
seen from the analysis there is a tremendous differ- particular coumarinic notes are one of the most
ence between the leaves and flowers (See T-1). The important notes and characterizers of lavender. This
flowers display the usual profile of ingredients that work shows that lavender proves to be an exception
we have come to know and love from lavender oil. to the rule.

DE17 Ingredients Vol. 44 • May 2019 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

PF1905_Buccellato_DE_fcx.indd 8 4/8/19 3:18 PM

PF Full Page.indd 1 4/1/19 10:15 AM
 Developing Better Products
through Natural Chemistry
Penta Manufacturing Company is Family Owned and Operated for Over 30 Years.
Here is a partial listing of our Naturally derived flavor & fragrance ingredients.
All items are Food Grade Kosher & Organic Compliant.

■■2-Amyl Furan ■■2,6- ■■Ethyl Oleate Monooleate ■■Methyl Cinnamate ■■Nootkatone

■■Anethole Dimethoxyphenol ■■Ethyl Pelargonate ■■Glyceryl ■■2-Methyl-3- ■■2,4-Octadienal
■■P-Anisic Acid ■■Dimethyl ■■Ethyl Propionate Monostearate Furanthiol ■■1-Octen-3-ol
■■Anisyl Alcohol Anthranilate ■■3-Ethyl Pyridine ■■2-Heptanol ■■Methyl Heptyl ■■Octyl Acetate
■■Benzaldehyde ■■2,5-Dimethyl- ■■Ethyl Vinyl Ketone ■■Gamma- Ketone ■■Octyl Alcohol
■■Benzyl Acetate 4-Ethoxy-3(2H) ■■Farnesol Hexalactone ■■Methyl Hexyl ■■Alpha-
■■Benzyl Propionate Furanone ■■D-Fenchone ■■TRANS-2-HEXE- Ketone Phellandrene
■■N-Butyl Acetate ■■2,3-Dimethyl- ■■Fenchyl Alcohol NYL BUTYRATE ■■Methyl Isobutyl ■■2-Phenylethyl-
■■N-Butyl Alcohol 5-Ethyl Pyrazine ■■Ferulic Acid ■■Alpha-Ionone Ketone amine
■■N-Butyraldehyde ■■4,5-Dimethyl- ■■Formic Acid ■■Beta-Ionone ■■Methyl Mercaptan ■■Phenyl Ethyl
■■Beta- 2-Ethyl-3- ■■Furfural ■■Linalool ■■Methyl-2- Butyrate
Caryophyllene Thiazoline ■■Furfuryl Acetate ■■Linalool Oxide Methyl Butyrate ■■Alpha-Pinene
■■Cetyl Alcohol ■■2,5-Dimethyl- ■■Furfuryl Alcohol ■■Linalyl Acetate ■■Methyl-2-Methyl- ■■2,3,5,6-Tetramethyl
■■1,4-Cineol 3-(2H) Furanone ■■2-Furfurylidene ■■Linalayl 3-Furyl Disulfide Pyrazine
■■Cinnamic Acid ■■2,5-Dimethyl-3- Butyraldehyde Isobutyrate ■■Methyl- ■■Thaumatin
■■3-Hexanone Furanthiol ■■Furfuryl Isovalerate ■■Maltol 3-(Methylthio) ■■2-Thienyl
■■Cis-3-Hexenal ■■2,5-Dimethyl ■■Furfuryl Propionate ■■Maltol Isobutyrate Propionate Mercaptan
■■Cis-3-Hexenyl Pyrazine ■■Furfuryl ■■Melonal ■■Methyl Nonyl ■■O-Thiocresol
Isobutyrate ■■Dimethyl Sulfide Thioacetate ■■Methional Ketone ■■Thioterpenes
■■Cis-3-Hexenyl- ■■Dimethyl Trisulfide ■■Furfuryl ■■Methionol ■■Methyl Salicylate ■■4-Thujanol
2-Methyl Butyrate ■■Ethyl Acetate Thiopropionate ■■Methyl Acetate ■■Methyl ■■P-Tolylaldehyde
■■Cis-3-Hexenyl ■■Ethyl Acrylate ■■Geraniol ■■Methyl Thiobutyrate ■■Delta-
Valerate ■■Ethyl Amyl Ketone ■■Geranyl Acetate Anthranilate ■■3-Methyl Valeric Tridecalactone
■■Citronellyl Acetate ■■Ethyl Benzoate ■■Geranyl Acetone ■■Methyl Butyrate Acid ■■Trimethylamine
■■Citronellyl ■■Ethyl Cinnamate ■■Geranyl Butyrate ■■2-Methyl Butyl ■■Myristic Acid
Propionate ■■Ethyl Crotonate ■■Geranyl Formate Acetate ■■Naringen
■■2,3-Diethyl- ■■Ethyl-3-Mercapto- ■■L-Glutamic Acid ■■Methyl Caprate ■■Neryl Acetate
5-Methyl Pyrazine propionate ■■Glycerine ■■Methyl Caprylate ■■2-Nonanol
■■Difurfuryl Disulfide ■■Ethyl Myristate ■■Glyceryl ■■Methyl Chavicol ■■Delta-Nonalactone
For a complete list of all our natural, natural identical & synthetic ingredients
visit us at our web: www.pentamfg.com

Penta Manufacturing Company

A Division of Penta International Corporation

50 Okner Parkway, Livingston, New Jersey 07039-1604 Phone: (973) 740-2300 Fax: (973) 740-1839
E-Mail: sales@pentamfg.com Web: www.pentamfg.com

PF1406_Penta.indd 1 4/1/19 10:27 AM