MEN’S WEAR 531
BASIC PANT FOUNDATION FOR TROUSER
The pant foundation is a loosely fitted pant and is drafted to the natural waist. The pant foundation is the
base for the Classic Pleated Trouser and for the draft of the Slack foundation. The CF waist depth is marked
in step 3. Trace the pant foundation for creating designs. Read Chapter 26 for greater pant understanding.
Measurements needed: Use personal or
chart measurements: Place in the spaces. Figure 1 3/4 " M
Tab page 533 for pant pockets and O A N 3/4 "
Chapter 25 for waist band and loops. L H
Figure 1
A–B Pant length _________.
X X
A–C Crotch depth, plus 3/4" _________.
J Hip D F
Tailors refer to depth as the rise.
C–D Hip depth: one-third of C–A.
C–E Knee depth: one-half of C–B, minus K Crotch C G
1 1/2" to 2".
Square out from A, D, C, E, B.
FRONT BACK
D–F Back hip arc, plus 1/4" _________.
Length
C–G and A–H D–F. Connect G to H.
G–X Half of G–H.
D–J Front hip arc, plus 1/4" _________.
C–K and A–L D–J. Connect K with L.
K–X Half of K–L.
H–M Mark in 3/4" and up 3/4". E 1 1/2 to 2 "
Knee
M–N Back: Waist arc, plus 1" includes
1 dart and 1/4" ease.
L–O Front: Waist arc, plus 1 1/4" includes
Pant
2 darts and 1/4" ease.
Figure 2
1/2 " 1/2 " 3/4 " B
M
O A N
L
Q P H
Mark Dart Legs and Intake
1 1/4 "
Figure 2
3" H–P One-half of M–N, plus 1/2". Mark
3 1/2 "
dart intake; square down 3 1/2"
X X from center.
J D L–Q One-third of L–O. Mark dart Q,
space 1 1/4" and mark second
FRONT BACK dart. Square down 3" from centers.
K C G
532 Chapter 23
Figure 3 Figure 3
• Mark 1/4" below L, or for personal 1/4 "
fit C.F. waist depth. Re-mark L. C.F. Waist depth
O A N M
• Draw curve waistline from L to O. L H
• Draw curve waistline from M to N.
Completing Dart Legs
Draw dart legs to new waistline. X X
Equalize dart legs by extending
shorter leg to match longer leg. J D
U T
G–R One-half of G–C. FRONT BACK
S K G
K–S One-fourth of K–C. R
W C V
G–T 1/3" on diagonal line.
Draw curve, blending at X.
K–U 1/3" on diagonal line.
Draw curve, blending at X.
R–V One-half of R–C less 1/8".
S–W One-half of S–C less 1/8". Figure 4
O AN
Figure 4
• Square lines from V and W
through length of the pant
(creaseline).
D Hip
• Back: Draw hip curve from N to D.
• Front: Draw hip curve from O to D.
• Leg line: The back hem is gener- 1/2 " Crotch 1/2 "
S R
ally 1 inch greater than the front W C V
hem. Follow suggested hem meas-
urements. Make adjustments in
the fitting.
• Mark 1/2" in from S and R and
draw lines to hem marks. FRONT TROUSER BACK TROUSER
• Inseam: Draw curve line from
knee to S and R.
• Outseam: Draw leg lines from Knee
each hem mark, blending with D.
Mark.
• Make waist band; see Figure 8. This
completes the Classic foundation.
Creaseline
Creaseline
• Separate trouser and trace for
the pleated design patterns. See
page 533.
4-1/4 " 4-1/4 " 4-3/4 " 4-3/4 "
MEN’S WEAR 533
Trouser Draft Figure 5
Figures 5a, b, c 2"
Fly/zip 2" 1 1/4 "
• Trace the upper patterns (a). Waistband
ext.
• Draw side pocket 1 1/4" to
past hip. Draw fly and Lining
trace (b). Shield
• Draw shield; extend to Hip
width of the waist band and Trim
out 3" at waist level. Trace (b)
two copies: one for lining, Crotch
C.F.
trim the other for self-
Shield
fabric. Use trim tip for belt FRONT BACK
extension (c).
• Place interlining on fly, (c) (a)
and shield.
Figures 6d, e, f Waist Band Figure 8 C.B. C.B.
Pockets
Figure 8 1" 1"
• Trace pocket pouch on fold (d) and
draw overlay patterns (e, f). Cut in 2" 2"
self fabric, and stitch flat to lining.
L.S. X 2-3/4 " X R.S.
• Welt pocket: Draw welt pocket. See
pages 538 and 539 for instruction. Figure 7a Trim
• Belt loops: Instruction in Chapter 25. • Length: one-half waist.
• Width: 1 1/2". X is center front.
1 1/2 "
Figure 6 Trim • Right side: Extend 2" from X.
Draw point; mark buttonhole.
• Back side: mark for metal hook.
• Left side: Shield is 2" from X, fol-
lowing lining shape. Mark metal
Fold
hook and button place.
Facing • Back: Add 1" to center back, al-
(e) lowing for waist modification.
Backing Lining Facing Interline waist band. Buckram
(f) and curtain can be purchased at
(d) FRONT TROUSER
tailor supply stores.
Figures 7a, b
• The first pleat begins on creaseline,
regardless of location of the dart.
• Slash/spread, or pivot 1 1/2" from
Figure 7b
hem.
• Second pleat: Combine waist darts (a).
Creaseline
1"
• Fold first pleat to zero at hem. Fold
second pleat to knee and
trace/wheel across folds. Unfold,
pencil-mark, and blend hemline. Hip
• Add seams and 1" for fold-back
hem. Walk seams; see page 538,
Figure 2, for guide. Trim pocket at Crotch
entry; see broken lines.
BACK TROUSER
