https://www.youtube.com/watch?

v=gX5t1YN_Nu4

Goldnfiber (2021) “Pattern Grading and Marker Making Techniques” Retrieved from
https://www.goldnfiber.com/2013/04/pattern-grading-and-marker-making-techniques.html

Introduction: Grading means step-wise increase or decrease of a

master pattern piece to produce different sizes garment. Usually,
grading modifies the overall size of a design to fit different age’s
people. Pattern is an imperative part of any garment’s industry. It is
one kind of size format which is needed to cut plenty of garment parts.
To get accuracy, efficiency and high performance in garments industry
must need skilled pattern team.

Types of pattern: Four kinds of pattern generally used in bulk production such as:
1. Basic pattern

2. Cutting pattern

3. Sewing pattern

4. Finish pattern.

Usually, pattern grading is done by pattern maker in pattern section.

Pattern maker did it by following buyers spec sheet provided grading
formula/measurement.
Pattern maker has to chase fashion designers guideline. Body structure
of a human being is not similar to every region of this universe. Pattern
grading usually depends on regional atmosphere like people’s physical
structure, features, test, and habit etc. Suppose physical structure of
Asian people may vary from Europe or the United States. If found any
unclear point during pattern grading; pattern maker should check with
the merchandiser to request the buyer to rectify those inequalities.

Though, pattern classification is accomplished by some basic points.

Those points are mentioned below:
Marker making:

Marker making is a unique technique where to have to arrange all the pattern
pieces of a garment item on the paper/fabric before cutting. This may be done by
drawing the pattern pieces onto the fabric directly or by drawing the pattern
pieces on a thin marker paper and then place the paper onto the fabric layer.
Nowadays marker making task complete accomplished by the computerized
machine to smooth the production process. By computerized marker making
process, first need to open the basic pattern in computer. Then input desired
grading ratio to get all size of pattern. Here normally use computer screen,
keyboard, computerized plotter, marker paper and light pencil etc. to accomplish
this task.

There are some techniques to minimize central fabric wastage outside

of the marker like as minimize loose of fabric ends, minimize ends of
ply loose, minimize purchase loose, minimize selvage loose. So, we can
identify the marker like bellow. Marker is a thin paper which contains
all necessary pattern pieces for all sizes of a particular style of
garments in such a way that the fabric wastage would be least. The
main purpose of the marker is to place it onto the fabric layer and
provide right direction for cutting. Marker width is equal to the
minimum fabric width, and its length depends on the number of
pattern sizes that will be drawn or cutting table dimensions. The
technique of constraining marker making is firstly big pattern is placed
on the marker paper then comparatively small pattern are placed.
Then shake the pattern on marker for placement in a short area. We
can calculate marker efficiency by the following way.

Marker efficiency = (Patterns area in marker paper/Marker area) * 100

So, now we can realize marker making is very important element in
apparel industry to achieve the highest usage of fabric item and
for minimizing fabric wastage. By gaining better marker efficiency, we
can reduce fabric wastage to cut our cost so that
our profit margin will be high.

The formula of Marker efficiency is shown below-

As we know, the fabric cost of a garment is required 50% (percent) of

the total value. So, if 1% fabric cost is possible to save by efficient
marker, this will increase the profit margin. So the proportion of marker
making efficiency is very important to gain profit margin. The variable
facts of marker making mentioned below-

a) Garment type
b) Order quantity
c) Sizes of the garment
d) Length of the marker
e) Marker maker efficiency
f) Pattern engineering
f) Fabric and other material
nature/type
h) Marker width
i) Way of marker making etc.

Clothing Patterns 101 “Pattern Grading to Create Full Size Range” Retrieved from
https://www.clothingpatterns101.com/pattern-grading.html

Pattern Grading to Create a Full Size Range

Pattern grading is the process of creating a range of sizes
for a single style.
This isn't something that most people will need to do; but if
you're a dressmaker and do bridal wear (for example) and need
the same bridesmaid's dress for several people, or want to
design a small line of clothing, you should understand what
grading is about.
Grading a pattern and altering a pattern are two very different things.

When you grade a pattern, you are creating the same style in another size -
EVERY measurement point is changed, following a strict formula, to maintain
the same fit and proportion in each new size.

When you alter a pattern, you change only some parts of the pattern. For
example, if your bust is a size 8, your waist is closer to a 10, and your hips are
a 12. You may start with a size 10 pattern and make adjustments at the bust
and hips to fit a specific body and proportion. You are not maintaining the
same fit and proportion; you are creating a new one for a specific person.

Each is an important skill to learn, but remember the differences - grading is

used to create a full size range for the manufacture of clothing. Altering is
used for custom work, to fit a specific body.
Women's sewing patterns are generally designed to fit a
specific size (usually an 8 or 10). That is the sample size, and
the fit is perfected on that sample.
Once the fit is approved for that size, the pattern is "graded" for
a full range of sizes (usually size 4 to 18, for misses sizes).
The "grade rules" refer to the amount of change
between sizes, for each measurement point. For example,
the bust, waist and hip "grade" 1" between sizes for most of the
Misses size range.
If you started with a size 8 dress and needed to make another
one in a size 10, you'd make the bust, waist and hip 1" larger.
You'd do this primarily by making the adjustment at the side
seam, and distribute the 1" size difference evenly at each
seam.
Since your dress has a front and back, you'd adjust 1/2" each in
the front and back. And since the front and back each have a
left and right side, you'd divide that 1/2" in half again - so you'd
adjust each seam (each side of the front and each side of the
back) by 1/4" - the total will be a 1" difference between the
sizes. Generally, you do NOT make adjustments at the center
front or center back.
The shoulder, armhole, and neck would be made a bit larger
also (see the sketch below to get an idea of the difference
between a size and and a size 10 bodice).

349Save

Similar adjustments are made to the sleeve and skirt, as well as

any other styling details (the collar would have to be adjusted
to fit the neckline, for example).
The chart below shows a few of the grade rules for a Misses size
range. The "+/-" means, for example, if you are starting with a
size 8 and are grading to a size 10, you would ADD 1" to that
area of the pattern. If you are grading down to a size 6, you
would SUBTRACT 1".
You'll notice that the grade rules change as you get into
sizes 12 - 16, and again for size 18.

349Save

Pattern grading is fairly complex. It's best to avoid it

unless it's necessary. Even if you are making a group of
garments in a variety of sizes, unless the group of people
wearing them are of very similar proportions, it may be easier
to fit and pattern each one separately.
However, it's worth learning if you are planning on designing
and creating your own clothing line to sell.

Goldnfiber “Essential Pattern and CAD software for garment industry” Retrieved from
https://www.goldnfiber.com/2016/10/essential-pattern-making-software-garment-industry.html

Are you searching a suitable and reliable pattern making software for your
production house or garment industry? Do you need a user friendly, modern,
responsive pattern making software for your pattern section? Pattern making
process is necessary to run an apparel business smoothly. Before it
accomplished manually, but now it’s quite impossible to run it perfectly
considering time, situation and business volume. Usually, pattern making
software abbreviated as CAD which elaborated as computer aided design. In
fact, it has known as design making software which can assist you to optimize
your sketches. Once pattern making task was tough and clumsy because all
tasks handled by a skilled technician. But now it becomes very easy due to the
advancement of computer technology.

CAD is an integrated system which is used for pattern making, pattern grading,
measuring as well as marker making. Some company also delivers automatic
fabric spreader, automatic fabric cutter, end cutter, CAM cutter, plotter, and
pattern cutter devices to smooth your operations. It is an essential element in
garment export house, fashion school or medium and large size garment
business. CAD system is not only useful for clothing business but also helpful to
other professionals to create a dynamic design. CAD system is a unique process
where a pattern maker can transform a sketch into a digital image and then can
be printed out through a plotter. Moreover, by this practice pattern maker can
justify image efficiency before print out through 2D / 3D special visual effects.

Garment plotter machine

It’s obviously a great solution that can improve sample room productivity,
accuracy and help you to easier cutting room tasks. Thus, garment owners
always emphasize to procure a best pattern and marker making i.e. CAD
software for their respected organizations to get optimum result. CAD software is
specially designated to accomplish computer aided design correctly. This
software’s are capable of bringing a good shape of any curve line. Usually, a
bunch of computer engineers, skilled technicians, and professional designers
have to engage to build any particular CAD software. Nowadays most of the CAD
software’s support 2D / 3D special visual effects. Wherever you factory are
situated, CAD service providers can serve you easily because they have a global
presence through the internet or local agents.

Today, I will try to share some renowned pattern making software’s name in this
post. Beside this, you can get more information regarding these software’s by
reading the product features or visiting their websites. I think this post just gives
you an idea to choose a suitable CAD solution for your garment industry.
1. Crea: It is worldwide recognized as the most intuitive and easy to use CAD for
pattern making, size grading and made to measure. Developed on the windows
interface for the pattern makers that are totally autonomous after only 3 days of
training. Headquartered in Italy, and grown up working with the most popular
fashion brands of the world, Crea Solution has developed the complete CAD
CAM for fashion & apparel suite equipped with all direct importers of other CAD
formats. Crea is having a huge success even in industries like aerospace,
furniture, automotive, bespoke and made to measure, technical textiles and
composite garment industry.

2. Lectra: It is one of the worldwide renowned CAD software for garment

entrepreneurs. They have developed a high-end CAD solution for the fashion
industry. Pattern makers love to use Lectra for its simplicity and powerful
features. It also admired in fashion and apparel, furniture, automotive as well as
other industries like composites, textiles, and leather. Their cutting solutions are
perfect for smooth operations. Their headquarters situated in Paris in French.

3. Gerber Accumark: It is one of the popular CAD software for garment

manufacturers. This software is user-friendly along with advanced features. It’s a
comprehensive and full-featured CAD pattern making software for the apparel
industry. Their software and hardware solutions are perfect for fashion & apparel,
aerospace, construction, packaging, furniture, automotive industry, technical
textiles, digital printing, graphics industries. Their headquarters situated at West
Tolland in the USA.

4. GT CAD Software: You will be glad to know that it’s a Bangladesh-based

company. They can deliver quick service regarding pattern design and marker
making software. It is an integrated and accurate pattern making software for
perfect fitting garments. Their interface has designated very simply so that
everyone can handle it quickly.

5. Optitex: It exists 2D and 3D pattern making option with a lot of advanced

features. You can use their package by paying low subscription to get lifetime
customer support. It was a startup venture of Silicon Valley. Their CAD, pattern,
cutting solutions are easy to use for all apparel industries.

6. Etelestia: Telestia formed by the Fashion School SITAM-AB in Greece on

2004. It is a comprehensive and full-featured CAD pattern making software for
the apparel industry. Their 2D & 3D CAD/CAM solutions are perfect for Pattern-
Designing, Grading, detailing, marker layout and CAD drafting in Garment
industry.
7.Tuka Cad: It’s appropriate for Pattern-Designing, Grading, and Marker-Making
in Garment industry. You can use their service by paying low monthly
subscription to get their premium service. They also provide free online unlimited
training for their subscribers. Their software’s are perfect for accurate measuring.
Their headquarters situated in Los Angeles in the USA.

8. Fashion CAD: They have an integrated pattern making software for high-end
customers. Their CAD solutions are user-friendly for pattern drafting,
modification, grading, pattern cloning, detailing, and marker making. It is an
Australia-based company.

9. Richpeace: They have a complete CAD solution for pattern making, pattern
treatment, grading, detailing, editing, pattern cutting. It can be downloaded from
their official websites by paying low yearly subscription. Their headquarters
situated at tianjinshi in China. They also provide different types of cutting &
sewing machine, embroidery, quilting machine.

10. Gemini CAD Systems: They provide integrated software and hardware
solutions for pattern creation, modification, measuring, grading, pattern cutting
including 2D and 3D pattern making option. It is a Romania-based company.

11. PAD Systems: It’s powerful but easy software for pattern designing, grading,
pattern alteration, cloning. It has some user-friendly Interface for making
innovation. Thus, you can choose it for your production unit. It invented by iWork
Ltd, a Hong-Kong based company.

12. Romans CAD: It is innovative and dynamic software for manufacturers and
designers to accomplish Pattern Making, Pattern Treatment, Grading, and
Marker Making Solution. Their sophisticated solutions are especially admired in
footwear and leather goods industries to accomplish the critical task. Their
headquarters situated at rungis in French.

13. Dimension CAD: It is an advanced pattern making, grading, editing,

eliminating, and marker making solution that will make more efficient your
production process and reduce operating cost. It is also an idle and affordable
pattern making software for home based or commercial businesses. It situated in
San Diego in the USA.

14. Wild Ginger: Do you need custom-sized sewing patterns or professional

pattern making software? Wild Ginger publish the most comprehensive and cost-
effective range of pattern making software on the market. It exist many custom
features for pattern creation, grading, pattern tampering, marker-making, mass
customization and custom mode of tailoring. You can use their education version
without free of charge.

Companies overall profit and loss mostly depend on pattern and marker making
section efficiency. Thus, an owner should select a premium CAD solution to
chase the goal. You are requested to click my google drive link to get a
fantastic guideline regarding pattern making process. Please hit the link to
download your desired file.

Here I have tried to compile all user friendly pattern making software for your
reference. I think you will get a clear instruction that may assist you to learn
pattern making task quickly. There are a lot of resources on this topic in the
online world. If you wish to learn pattern making job properly through the internet,
at first I am humbly requesting you to download individual software trial or
education version without free of charge. Once you become expert then you may
purchase full license software from above mentioned individual software link.

https://tvetreform.org.pk/wp-content/uploads/downloads/Curricula/CBT/curriculum/services/
Curriculum%20for%20Pattern%20Drafting%20&%20Grading%20FINAL.pdf

http://oms.bdu.ac.in/ec/admin/contents/41_16SACFT4_2020052511091337.pdf

Cotton incorporated (2021) “The Art of Garment Manufacturing: Markers, Spreading and Cutting”
Retrieved from https://www.cottonworks.com/topics/sourcing-manufacturing/garment-
manufacturing/the-art-of-garment-manufacturing-markers-spreading-and-cutting/

Markers, Spreading, & Cutting

 Pattern Engineering
 Marker Making
 Cutting Methods
Pattern Engineering
Apparel manufacturers create patterns in several ways. The starting point is often pattern drafting, in
which body measurements are taken from a fit model or body form. The designer uses these
measurements to create “slopers,” which are a set of basic patterns used in the development of
styled garments. Other common terms for slopers are “basic blocks,” “master patterns,” and
“foundation patterns.”

Marker Making
In apparel manufacturing, a marker is a special kind of stencil that illustrates how pattern pieces of
one or more garments should be cut from several layers of fabric. The person who arranges the
marker is the marker planner. It is the marker planner’s job to arrange the pattern pieces efficiently,
wasting as little of the fabric as possible. The percentage of fabric cut into pieces is called the
pattern yield (material utilization). When the yield is high, the arrangement of pieces is described as
a “tight marker.”

Cutting Methods
Apparel manufacturers share the builder’s appreciation for cutting with precision. Before workers
make the first incision into layers of fabric, they must ensure that the fabric is properly arranged, in a
process called “spreading.” After spreading, the pattern map is placed on top of the stack, and the
markers are cut. Various types of cutters are used.

Sarkas, Prasanta (2013) “What is Marker, Marker Making, Marker Efficiency and
How to Calculate Marker Efficiency?” Retrieved from
https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2013/05/what-is-marker-marker-
making-marker.html

What is a marker? What is marker making? What is the marker efficiency? How
to calculate marker efficiency for the manual marker as well as a computerized
marker?
What is a Marker?

Mini Marker

A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for sizes of a

specific style that are to be cut from in one spread. (source: Apparel
Manufacturing, Glock and Kunz)

What is Marker Making?

Marker making is the process of determining a most efficient layout of pattern
pieces for a style, fabric and distribution of sizes (source: Apparel
Manufacturing, Glock and Kunz). Factories those don’t have a CAD system
perform this process manually. In manual marker making to make an efficient
marker one need time, skill and concentration. Now-a-day Marker making is
mostly done by CAD systems which give accuracy, increase control over
variables and reduces the time required in making markers.

What is a marker efficiency?

Marker efficiency is defined as a ratio of area of marker used in a garment and
area of total marker.

Secondly, Glock and Kunz have defined this term in their book, Apparel
Manufacturing as Marker efficiency is determined from fabric utilization, the
percentage of total fabric that is actually used in garment parts.

Note: Marker efficiency and Fabric utilization is not same thing. In marker
efficiency calculation fabric wastage due to end bits and end loss is not included
but in fabric utilization calculation all kinds of fabric wastage are included.
How to calculate Marker Efficiency?
The calculation method of marker efficiency has been explained below with
formula.

Formula#1

Marker efficiency% = (Area of marker used for garments / Area of total marker)
* 100
Area of marker used for garments: In case of CAD marker, CAD system
automatically calculates the total area of garment pattern pieces placed in a
marker. So you get the area of marker that is consumed by garments from a
CAD system.

Total Marker Area: To calculate the total marker area simply multiply marker
length by marker width.

In a manual marker, it is difficult to measure the surface area of garments

patterns in a marker. You can use a mechanical device, Planimeter, to calculate
the surface area of pattern pieces from outlines of the pattern pieces.

Another method can be practiced to calculate marker efficiency when you don’t
have CAD system or Panimeter. Calculate ratio of weight of fabric consumed by
pattern pieces and total weight fabric under total marker area. So a separate
formula is used to find marker efficiency.

Formula#2

Marker efficiency% = (Weight of fabric consumed by patterns pieces in a marker

/ Total weight of fabric under the marker area)*100

Weight of garment parts: To calculate the weight of garment parts cut one
layer of fabric according to markers and weigh all garment parts that are
included in a marker.

Weight of marker total area: Measure the weight of fabric (one layer) of total
marker area.
Garment Merchandizing “ Different methods of marker making” Retrieved
from https://garmentsmerchandising.com/different-methods-of-marker-
making/

Different Methods of Marker Making:

Marker making is one of the most important tasks in the garments
manufacturing industry. Accurate marker making helps to reduce fabric wastage which
ultimately reduces the cost of making the garments. There are different types of
marker making methods used in the readymade garments sector, which are
explained in this article.

Computerized Marker Making

Different Techniques of Marker Making:
There are two different methods of marker making followed in the apparel industry. Those
are-
(a) Manual method,
(b) Computerized method.
Both marker making techniques have discussed below:
(a) Manual method:
The manual method can be done in two ways:
1. Marker planning with a full-size pattern,
2. Marker with the minimized pattern.
All the above two ways have explained in the following:
1. Marker planning with the full-size pattern:
According to the standard measurement, all the patterns are in full dimension here. At first,
all the hard patterns are placed on the paper and then those patterns are marked by turning
in various directions to reduce the fabric usages. Here the tables, on which the markers
are placed, arranged in a way so that they do not tilt. The vacuum system is arranged here
under the table for suction. This method is suitable for reducing the marker length.
2. Marker with the minimized pattern:
Here, full-sized patterns are reduced 1/5 part by a pantograph, and the patterns are made
by hard paper or plastic sheet. Marker is planned here with the small pattern pieces and
after making, snaps are taken by using the camera. Planimeter is used here to measure the
covered area of the pattern lies in the marker. In the case of this method, marker
efficiency is determined by calculating the marker area and fabric area.
(b) Computerized method:
The computerized method can be performed in two ways:
1. Automatic marker making,
2. Interactive method.
The above two computerized marker making method has discussed
in the below:
1. Automatic marker making:
It is the most efficient marker making system. Here, the computer makes the marker itself
according to the command given to the computer. Small pattern pieces are displayed on a
computer screen but full size in computer memory. Though it is a time-consuming method
modern automatic marker-making system overcomes that problem of time and needs only
two minutes to make a marker.

2. Interactive method:
The interactive marker making method is a common process where the operator plans
markers by connecting directly with the system through a computer screen. Here, all the
pattern pieces are displayed at the top of the screen in miniature form. Those are dragged
and draped to the pre-determined place by a data pen or tablet. It is less efficient and less
time required than the automatic marker making system.

TextileBlog (2020) “Complete Process of Marker Making in Apparel Industry” Retrieved from
https://www.textileblog.com/complete-process-of-marker-making-in-apparel-industry/What is
marker?

Generally marker is meant to a piece of paper, on which all sizes

patterns of a garment are drawn so that the required number of
garments can be made using the minimum quantity
of fabrics (minimum wastage of fabrics). Marker width is taken as the
minimum fabric width and the length of the marker depends on how
many sizes of patterns are used for making the pattern. Some other
factors are involved with marker length:

How many garments will be made with one lay of fabric.


 The length of the cutting table.
 Production planning, etc.
A marker and fabric lay/spread is shown in figure.

Fig: Marker
and fabric lay/spread
Marker Efficiency:

The success of the jobs a marker man is determined by the marker

efficiency. The expression in percentage of the occupied area by the
patterns used in a marker in relation to the total area of a marker is
called the marker efficiency. Marker efficiency can be measured by
the following formula:

…………………………………The area of the patterns used in the marker

Marker Efficiency = —————————————————————– x
100
………………………………………………….The area of the marker

The greater the marker efficiency the lower is the fabric wastage. This
means that for making a specific number of garments, comparatively
less fabric will be required. About 50% of the cost of a garment is
spent for fabric purpose. The meaning of 1% increase of marker
efficiency is the addition of the cost of that fabric (less used due to 1%
marker efficiency) with the profit. For these reasons the increase of
marker efficiency is very much important. So, making marker is an
important task in apparel manufacturing process.

The factors which are involved with the marker efficiency are
as follows:

a) Marker maker: Marker efficiency mainly depends on the skill,

effort, honesty, sincerity, experience and technical knowledge of the
marker man. For making a marker, the greater the number of times
the marker will be made, the higher the possibility of better marker
efficiency.

b) Garment size: During marker making, the greater the number of

sizes of garments are included, the higher the possibility of better
marker efficiency. But if the sizes are too many then the reverse
situation may happen.

c) Marker length: The marker length is involved with various

factors. Greater the length of the marker, greater the chances of
higher marker efficiency and the production of cutting room will also
be increased. But if the marker length is too long, then reversed result
may happen.

d) Pattern engineering: Marker efficiency can be increased by

changing pattern designs of some of the parts of a garment or by
dividing the pattern or by fragmenting any small part of a pattern.

e) Fabric characteristics: There are some fabrics which are seen as

same from any side, this is called symmetrical fabric. In case of these
fabrics, the greater marker efficiency can be achieved during making
of marker. But the fabrics which are not symmetrical, that means
which are asymmetrical fabric, there is a chance of getting less
marker efficiency. Especially for matching of stripes or checks in
fabrics, there is tendency of getting less marker efficiency.

f) Marker making method: Mainly there are two methods for

marker making, i.e. 1. Manual marker and 2. Computer aided marker.
If the computer aided marker is done, the efficiency becomes greater
than manually done marker, but it takes much time. If the marker is
made by experienced marker man, then in less time the greater
efficiency of marker can be obtained.

g) Marker width: Generally the marker width depends on the fabric

width. It has been found in study that greater the width of a marker,
easier for the marker man to plan the marker. As a result there
remain chances of getting greater efficiency of a marker. This logic
may not be right in case of tubular fabrics.

h) Garment type: The garments where big sizes patterns are greater
than small sizes patterns such as slacks of men’s and ladies, overcoat,
etc. less marker efficiency is obtained. Because, after placing the big
sizes patterns, the small patterns are not available for placing at those
gaps, so fabric wastages are big. But in the garments where the
number of small size patterns are big, comparatively the higher
efficiency is obtained during making marker of these garments.

Constraints of Marker Making:

For making an efficient marker such a system is required so that the

marker man can see the full length and width of the marker easily.
The marker man usually places the bigger patterns first and then tries
to place the smaller patterns in the gaps of the bigger patterns. This
way the fabric wastage can be minimized, this means that the marker
efficiency can be increased. Then the marker man tries to place the
patterns by turning or moving them so that the length of the marker
can be reduced, this means efficiency can be increased.

The factors which prevent the marker man to make the

efficient marker are listed and reviewed below:

a) Grain line: On each pattern the grain line is marked. Grain line
indicates the warp side of fabric. During marker making, the grain
line of pattern must be placed in parallel with the warp side of woven
fabric and the wales of knitted fabrics. Based on garments
designs/styles, sometimes patterns are placed in 45 degree angles.
The drape and hang of garments depend on the matching of grain line
of fabric and the grain line of pattern. For increasing marker
efficiency the fabric grain line can be placed at 2 degree angle with
the pattern grain line. But need to keep observation so that there
happens no appreciable harm in the designs/styles of garments. To
keep eye on grain line matching and to abide by that rule, acts as a
constrain to the marker maker.

b) Fabric characteristics: Some fabrics are seen as same if they are

rotated at 180 degree angle. This is called the symmetrical fabric. In
case of symmetrical fabric, there is no problem during marker
making. But some fabrics are seen different when they are rotated at
180 degree angle. These are called the asymmetrical fabric, such as:
pile fabric, some special type of printed fabrics etc. During marker
making for asymmetrical fabric, special attention should be given
otherwise the garments look may be defective. For this reason, in case
of marker making for asymmetrical fabric, the pattern cannot be
moved randomly as per wish, which is considered as an constrain
during fabric spreading for asymmetrical fabrics.

c) Garment design characteristics: In those garments where

special designs are must such as mirror image, this means that the
left and right side along the center front line will be looked as same.
During fabric spreading and marking special attentions is to be given
so that after making the garments the desired designs are obtained in
each garment.

d) Cutting quality: In most of the cases the patterns are cut

separate from the fabric lay with the help of knife blade. The normal
width of knife blade in the middle of the fabric spread creates
problem in rotating the blade at 90 degree angle. For this reason,
precautionary measures should be taken during marker making so
that for moving the knife for cutting the patterns, no problems arise,
otherwise chances of defective pattern cutting will be seen.

Just after making the marker, need to count that how many total
patterns are there. For example, need to make pants for six sizes, in
each size there are sixteen patterns, then there will be 6×16 = 96
pieces of patterns. For any reason, if a single or a number of patterns
are found short during sewing after cutting of the fabric that will
bound to accept wastage or much time and money. For this reason,
just after marker making, the total number of patterns in the marker
must be counted. Code numbers need to be used in each pattern of a
marker so that the pattern can be separated easily after the cutting of
fabric and pattern of one size is not mixed with the pattern of the
other size. Otherwise for adding one error, two additional errors will
be evolved causing wastage of much time and money.

e) Production planning: When production order from any garments

order is given, generally the number of garments in that order is
given in dozen and in addition to that the number of garments in
dozen for each size, each color etc. are also mentioned. Specially the
sizes of the garments are given in ratio. An example of an order of
1500 dozen of ladies dress is given where there will be 600 dozen
white, 600 dozen blue and 300 dozen cream color garments, the ratio
of the sizes 15, 16, 17 and 18 will be 2:4:4:2.

For the above mentioned order, production planning can be done in

different ways and markers can also be done in different ways as per
the planning. Firstly, taking the patterns of all the sizes as per ratio, a
marker can be made. This means in this case 2 sets for the size 15, 4
sets for 16, 4 sets for 17 and 2 sets for the size 18 which means taking
total 12 sets of patterns, a marker can be made. In this case greater
marker efficiency may be achieved but it takes much time to make the
marker. On the other hand, due to the larger length of marker, there
is a possibility of not accommodating the fabric spread or lay in the
cutting table. In addition to that, more fabric rolls are required for
making fabric lay of certain height. As ther may happen color shade
variations among the fabric rolls, the shade variations in garments
increase. Without this, among the fabric spread, the number of fabric
ply in each color becomes less for each color that means the number
of bundles increase. For a larger number of bundles, greater handling
costs happen.

Secondly, two markers can be made for this order. For the first
marker, the marker can be done taking 2 sets for the size 15, 2 sets
for 16 and 2 sets for size 17 that means the marker can be done with
six sets of patterns. In the second marker, the marker can be done
taking 2 sets for the size 16, 2 sets for 17 and 2 sets for size 18 that
means the marker can be done with six sets of patterns. This way,
with multiple use of the two markers, the required total fabric for the
order can e cut. In the second system marker, there are both
advantages and disadvantages. Such as for each marker the length
will be almost half of the previous marker. As a result, it is
comparatively helpful to do smaller length marker and prompt
production. The smaller length of marker is suitable for small cutting
table. The possibility of being shade variations of garments is also
less. But in this case there is a chance of attaining less marker
efficiency.

Therefore, from the above mentioned discussion, it is easily

understandable that marker making and its efficiency are related with
the production planning.

Methods of Marker Making:

After making patterns of any garments (all the required sizes) marker
is made. At the very beginning of marker making, the marker width is
determined. The minimum width of the fabric with which garments
will be made is taken as the width of the marker. Generally marker is
made on white paper or newsprint paper. First the big patterns are
placed and then the small patterns are placed in the gaps of the big
patterns. As a result, the marker efficiency is increased. The marker
making is a very skilled and technical job. Markers are made mainly in
two ways.

1. Manual marker making (with full size patterns and with

small size patterns)
2. Computer aided marker making
1. Manual marker making:

in this method, markers are made with physical and mental labor.
Manual marker can be done with full sizes patterns as well as with the
small sizes patterns. Both methods are discussed below:

a) With full sizes patterns:

in this method, all the patterns are in full sizes as per the normal
measurements. Comparatively hard patterns are placed on the papers
or on fabrics. Then all the patterns are tried to place by moving in
various direction in order to get the better marker efficiency. Marker
making in this method is usually suitable for making the marker of
small length. Because the marker man can easily see and control all
the patterns within a small length. In cases where markers are made
with patterns of many sizes are generally long in length, as a result
for making long marker, this method is not suitable. Because it is very
difficult for the marker man to place the patterns efficiently in full
length. The top of the table on which the marker paper or fabrics are
placed and marker is made, may be fixed or tilting. The tilting table
top may be placed in various angles so that it becomes suitable for
marker making. Moreover under the table top there is arrangement
for making vacuum system, as a result, the patterns can be placed
fixed in their own positions.

b) With small sizes patterns:

In this method also markers are made with physical labor. In the
beginning, the patterns are made smaller in 1/5th scale or in 1/25th
scale with the help of Pantograph. Then in 1/5th scale the marker is
made in smaller table. The systematic explanation of marker making
in this method is given below:

1. With the help of a pantograph the full length patterns are

made smaller in the 1/5 scale. The smaller patterns made
with pantograph are generally made with plastic sheet or
coarse and hard board paper.
2. With the help of smaller size patterns, marker making
planning is made. The table on which marker planning with
smaller patterns are made, that table is generally 50cm
wide, 2 meter long and it is marked with 1/5 scale on both
sides. As a result, it becomes comparatively easier to place,
move or plan the small patterns in the small area.
3. After making the marker, the photograph of it is taken with
a camera. If time is available, again marker is made and its
photograph is taken.
4. How much area of a marker has been covered by the
patterns is determined with the help if a planimeter. Then
the marker efficiency is determined with the marker area
and patterns area.
5. The marker photograph and the concise patterns are kept
well preserved in a cabinet.
Seeing the photograph of the efficient marker made with reduced
sizes patterns, placing the full size patterns on paper or fabrics, full
size marker can be made. Sometimes reduced sizes patterns are
faulty due to the faults in pantograph. When a full size marker is made
seeing the photograph marker, sometimes the efficiency of the full
size marker is found comparatively more efficient. For making
garments on a bulk scale, this method is suitable but for making
garments in smaller quantity, this is not suitable because of using
much time and cost.
2. Computer aided marker making:

For making computer aided marker, first of all, the production

patterns need to be stored in the computer memory. For entering the
production pattern into the computer, generally digitizing or scanning
methods are used. For digitizing or scanning, full size production
patterns are used and in the computer memory also the full size
patterns are stored, but reduced size patterns are seen in the
computer screen. After entering all the production patterns, required
for a garment in the computer memory, using the grade rule
previously stored in the computer, the required patterns for all sizes
are obtained. The computer aided marker man generally uses
computer screen, key-board and light pencil. Then the marker man
gives some instructions to the computer, such as: the marker width,
pattern sizes to be used, check matching and all the obstacles to
marker making, which the computer will always maintain during
marker making. In this process the computer itself can make the
marker, also the marker man can make the marker with the help of
the computer.

If a computer does the marker itself, then it is called the automatic

marker making. In case of automatic marker making, if the computer
is provided with some preplanned required instructions, then based
on it, the computer make the marker itself. In this process the most
efficient marker is obtained, but computer takes much more time to
make the marker, because computer makes the marker using
permutation and combination methods.

When the marker man makes the marker with the help of a computer,
it is called the interactive making apparel marker. In this method all
the pieces of patterns are seen in smaller dimension on the top part of
the computer screen. In the middle of the screen two horizontal
parallel lines are seen which indicates the width of the marker. A
vertical line remains at the left side of the horizontal parallel lines
which indicated the beginning or starting of the marker and initially
the right side remains open. There remains some data below the
horizontal parallel lines, for example: identification of the marker,
marker length, marker efficiency (which changes regularly) etc.

For making marker in interactive method, a data pen is used and a

tablet is used for removing the pattern. Generally tablets represent
the display screen. There is a pointer in the data pen which has
pressure sensitive point. Using this pen, patterns can be placed in any
place of the screen. The pattern to be removed will be marked with
the help of the cursor of the screen. For removing the marked pattern,
the pen is lightly pressed on the tablet and then the pen is moved on
the tablet, as a result the pattern comes on the screen and it is placed
in the suitable place in the marker by moving the pen. Again if the pen
is lightly pressed it leaves the pattern, this means the pattern takes its
prescribed place in the marker. This way, all the patterns are
arranged in the marker. Within a very short time in this way an
efficient marker creating is possible. If the making apparel marker is
complete, below the marker in the screen, the data of marker
efficiency, marker length, marker width, pattern count, etc. are
obtained instantly. If the marker making is complete, it is saved in the
computer memory and if the print out facility is available, the print
out is taken.

The standard and efficiency of the marker made in computer is far

better than the manually made marker. In computer the marker can
be obtained fastest and the number copies of the marker can be
obtained as much as per wish. In a word, computer aided marker has
many positive sides. But in this method of computer, the initial
investment is high. Computer aided marker can save at least 2% of
fabrics.

Methods of Drawing and Duplicating a Marker:

I have published an article on “Marker Drawing and Duplicating

Techniques”. Before going to next portion you should read this
article first.

Fabric Wastage Outside Marker:

The maximum use of fabric mainly depends on marker efficiency.

Nevertheless, some more fabrics are wasted which sometimes goes
beyond the control of marker planning. For the benefit of controlling
such wastage, a discussion is made here on the reasons which cause
this type of fabric wastage.

a) Ends of ply losses: Due to the fabric extensibility and the

limitations of the fabric spreading machines, some allowance should
be kept at the end of each lay during fabric spreading. The amount of
this allowance is generally kept 2 cm in each side, as a result, for each
lay of fabric total 4 cm of fabric is kept extended, which is included in
the fabric wastage list. Based on the stability of the dimension of the
fabric, the quantity of such type of wastage may be more or less than
the mentioned. Therefore, this type of wastage can be minimized if it
is observed and controlled with due importance that what amount of
allowance should be kept for what fabric.

Moreover, if the marker length is big, such type of wastage decreases

and if the marker length is small such type of wastage increases.

b) Loss of fabric ends: Fabrics used in garments industry generally

comes in rolls. In each fabric roll there is fabric length limitation.
Fabric lay is made based on the marker length. In most of the times it
is seen that fabric lengths varies in quantity more or less than the
multiple of lay length. As a result, during fabric laying, at the end of
fabric of almost all rolls, spice or remnants, the fabric wastage
increase which is beyond the control of marker planning. This type of
wastage cannot be stopped, but can be reduced, such as, greater the
length of fabric roll, lower will be the rate of fabric wastage. With
proper identification and control of the place of splice in the marker,
by full utilizing of remnant etc.

c) Selvedge losses: In each fabric there are two selvedges along the
width of the fabric. Generally, in most of the cases, the selvedge of
fabric is left out. This left out quantity is generally taken as 3% along
the fabric width. But if the fabric is highly stable in dimension, then it
can be taken as 2% as left out. How much quantity of fabric width
could be used that depends on the quantity of the fabric selvedge,
uniformity of the fabric width and the alignment of selvedge during
the time of fabric spreading. Width way fabric wastage is out of
marker planning and it is not possible to stop this wastage but it can
be reduced. Greater the width of the fabric lower will be the rate of
such type of wastage.

d) Purchase loss: Generally fabrics are bought in length. Normally

the fabric length is marked on the fabric roll by the fabric
manufacturer and the supplier. Sometimes it is seen that the lower
length of fabrics than the marked length on the roll are found in some
rolls of fabrics. After buying the fabrics if this shortage of fabrics in
rolls are not detected then in most of the cases the buyer seems to
bear the shortage. For this reason, fabrics should be examined before
the fabric buying and receiving of the supply.

References:

1. Garments & Technology by Prof. M. A. Kashem

2. Garment Manufacturing Technology by Md. Shafiul Azam,
Md. Abu Saleh & Khondokar Abu Nafiz
3. Apparel Manufacturing Technology by T. Karthik, P.
Ganesan, D. Gopalakrishnan
4. Garment Manufacturing Technology Edited by Rajkishore
Nayak and Rajiv Padhye

Datta, Dibyendu Bikash & Seal Partha (2018) “ Various approaches in

pattern making for garment sector” Retrieved from
https://medcraveonline.com/JTEFT/various-approaches-in-pattern-making-
for-garment-sector.html

Today’s garment-making technology has exceeded expectations, has become easier to learn and quickly adapt
completely to the specific necessities of apparel designing. The fit is the most significant deciding factor
related to the final acceptance or rejection of a garment. Getting to right design is as important as getting a
right product with a perfect fit. The well-tailored fit is dependent on the pattern drafting integrating
dimensions of the fit model having various shapes, contour and proportions. With the beginning of the
industrial revolution and advances in textiles and clothing manufacturing, standardized patterns were vital to
the success of ready-to-wear clothing. New technology platforms are facilitating greater flexibility in the areas
of pattern designing, grading, marker making, waste reduction, increase in efficiency and accuracy of the
cutting room and create accurate samples in time to help reduce costs are some advantage of using of
computer-aided design (CAD) system in composite garment manufacturing. Increase in product development
costs, the rise in shipping charges, and awful decision making are an entity that many businesses cannot
afford. Efforts are required to drive a product to get to the market faster and are saleable. With that in mind,
use of advanced technology in apparel manufacturing is an essential competitive advantage for retailers,
brands, and manufacturers alike. This paper was designed to understand the various methods of pattern
making systems.

Pattern making is the art of designing patterns by making templates from which clothing
and craft items can be sewn. A pattern making process actually help to come out with the
imagination of designer from the sketching till real product. Pattern makers are also called
'Technical Designers'. When Fashion Designers complete their garment designing,
Technical Designers starts their work to prepare the pattern of the garment. The garment
making process consists of disparate yet interdependent stages. The aesthetic appearance,
correct fit and the drape attributes of a garment depends significantly on every garment
making process. Pattern making is considered as the first step in garment production.
While making a garment as per design, templates are used to trace the various garment
parts of similar style onto fabric prior to cutting and assembling. Generally, patterns are
made of paper or cardboard templates that have become a skilled technical process over
the centuries.

During the late medieval period, fabric weaving was done manually on primitive looms
which were a slow and laborious process and therefore fabric was considered as a coveted
commodity. Rectangular shaped fabric pieces were used for garment construction to
minimize waste. The seminal art of pattern making began in the fifteenth century. In place
of rectangular uncut fabric, pieces were carefully cut as per size and body's contour.1 the art
of pattern making prior to the industrial revolution was extremely revered. Tailors worked
meticulously to customize patterns based on their client's personal measurements and
clothing was elaborate and solely relegated for the rich. The onset of the industrial
revolution marked the importance of standardized patterns for the success of ready-to-
wear clothing. However, initial attempts for standardized clothing patterns resulted in the
positive approach towards systematic size chart of different regions like US or UK size
chart.

In traditionally cut bespoke clothing by directly marking measurements on fabric by

tailor's chalk were developed for each customer. Which is also known as tailoring method
in pattern cutting and home sewing? While in commercial production, industrial patterns
were introduced to cater the mass production to fit several standard sizes. Pattern 'blocks'
or 'slopers' have been tested to have an impeccable fit and are altered to create a variety of
new styles. The process of developing different sizes of a finished pattern is called 'grading'.
It helps in creating a line of differently sized or contoured garments that are yet similarly
patterned. Various firms sell pre-graded patterns to consumers who further sew them at
home. Commercial clothing manufacturers usually employ specialized pattern maker to
make their own in-house patterns as part of their design and production process. Pattern
makers are responsible for ensuring assembling of accessories and garments by sewer and
manufacturers. Each design is examined by pattern makers to find out the best way to
break a pattern down into a series of pieces as per design that can be reassembled; build
paper outlines of each part of the design and confirm that the design can be properly
reassembled; prepare a set of instructions that may be utilized by manufacturer to
reassemble the design from the pattern; make notes on the pattern to point out where each
piece be attached and where each feature (button, pocket, zipper, etc.) should be located.

Methods of pattern making

A pattern is a guide for cutting the fabric which can be sewn together to form a
garment.2 The different types of pattern making within the apparel industry are:
 a. Sloper / Block pattern making
i. Flat Pattern Technique
ii. Modelling
b. Computerised pattern making

Sloper/block pattern making

It is a basic garment pattern with no seam allowance from which other similar patterns are
designed. It is also referred as basic pattern or foundation pattern to develop and design
new patterns for garments. All basic sloper/block is based either by standard
measurements or by custom measurements. There are two methods for basic block pattern
making which are mostly applicable in women's wear.

Flat pattern technique: Involves a variety of straight edges, curves, measurements, and
calculations to draw a draft on paper. It is a two-dimensional method that manipulates an
existing foundation pattern 'sloper' or a 'block'. The draft is cut out of muslin fabric having
comfort ease to fit a dummy body or an individual. The desired changes are marked on the
paper draft. Making patterns following flat pattern making method is easy since patterns
are based on templates. The hard part is in making the templates either manually or by
using pattern making softwares. They look simple but are hard to make as they require
many human body measurements and lots of test fitting. They should be perfect since other
patterns are developed based on them. Use of certain geometric rules will derive different
patterns from the basic block, and they would fit perfectly like the blocks. Once the blocks
are made, the rest is significantly easier given that there is no need to measure the figure
anymore, or even test fit new patterns on it.3

In flat method, the pattern maker traces the basic blocks and carry out the necessary
manipulation along with essential sewing and other allowances to each component. A small
mark on the outside edge of the seam allowance on the pattern is marked to ensure
alignment and matching during sewing known as 'notches'. All these exercises produces
'working pattern'. Once test fit is done, the working pattern becomes 'production pattern'

Modelling: Often called 'draping on the stand' is a pattern cutting method which involves
muslin fabric for fitting of block garment generally on a designated dummy body of
appropriate size. The designers/pattern makers manipulate, mark and adjust the three-
dimensional mock-up (creating many variations in style) until they satisfy on the shape and
fitness. Mock-up or muslin is also referred as 'toile'. Toile is usually not neatly finished or
hemmed like the actual garment would be, and they are made from a translucent cotton or
linen fabric so that the design can be tested and perfected. Each component is transferred
onto pattern paper and the required allowances added (Figure 1).

Draping is referred to as 'creative pattern making' and is widely used in high-class fashion
because this method can provide a clear view of the product to designers in the pattern
construction process. In this process, designers may need to use lots of fabric. The styled
patterns that are utilized in cutting the original garment sample may be produced in
various ways, including flat method, modelling or both together. Modelling method is more
time consuming than other two-dimensional methods.4

Figure 1 The draping process from 2 D muslin to finished garment. (a) and (b) Use of
muslin to drape front bodice; (c) Finished pattern with seam allowance; (d) Finished
garment.
Computerised pattern making

Computer technology has integrated into every aspect of our work-lives. Applications of
CAD/CAM made their first appearance in the cutting room in the 1970s. In recent years,
however, computers became economical; pattern making and grading software still remain
an expensive investment. Creating a flat pattern using CAD is the easiest and most
advanced of all design techniques once one become familiar with the system one is working
with. Many new design entrepreneurs use a computer to relieve some of the work required
to develop a new style. Digitisation of manual pattern and using for production is also done
in the industry.
The pattern maker work by using a life-sized, sensitized table and a stylus attached to a
computer. Designers use many geometric designs that are based on various shapes and
lines to create patterns. Changes can be made easily on the screen if necessary and correct
patterns get ready for further operation like grading and marker making. Computers are
useful for making patterns that are repetitive. Some pattern makers draft on hard paper
and then use the scanner to convert the pattern into a computerized format. Then they
make the changes on the pattern on-screen. The major technological features are 'pattern
design systems' and 'pattern generation systems'. Pattern design systems speed up the
process of pattern making and they improve accuracy. An experienced production pattern
maker that is efficient in the use of the pattern design systems drafts the block on the
computer efficiently and construct garment patterns by putting in place all the block
patterns in current use. Pattern generation system creates the pattern from the pattern
components automatically via pattern design system (Figure 2).

Figure 2 The digital CAD system for pattern making.

Many companies use CAD systems to make patterns. CAD can be used for many fashion
design processes such as creating design sketches, apparel designing, pattern making and
grading, draping, virtual imaging, garment specification sheets, storyboards, prints for
fabrics and technical drawings. Overall CAD saves time during the design process, helps to
create new design ideas, shows every design components, develops a prototype and helps
to amend the new design before producing. There are different CAD software systems;
however, the best come from Lectra Systems, Gerber Technologies, Tukatech, and Optitex.5

 The process of pattern making

A pattern maker interprets a design by drafting it through pattern pieces as per the body
measurement following a set of instructions in order to create a style. The process is
known as pattern drafting. Individual body measurements are converted into a series of
straight lines and curves on template paper. At a later stage, the lines and curves determine
the overall sections of the patterns pieces to cut and eventually develop a reusable pattern
and tested for fit. Pattern pieces represent the garment in sections and have information on
size, grain line, balance marks, pockets, and placement for buttons, buttonholes, notch
mark, seam, and hem allowances. They are termed as 'pattern information'. Specific
methods and stages of pattern drafting vary from pattern maker to pattern maker.

The 'first pattern' is the first set of a pattern that has been obtained from pattern drafting
as per continent's size chart either in women's or men's wear area. Wherein tracing of the
main line or necessary lines are done from drafting pattern excluding any seam allowances.
Seam allowances are given in production pattern. It usually prepares to check the pattern
shape concerning to the steps of cutting, copying, folding, modifying and experimenting to
get the first pattern developed for each design from the basic block. Half a pattern for front,
back and sleeve are developed unless the design is asymmetrical (Figure 3).
Figure 3 Sloper/Block.
(a) Front / Back sloper
(b) Basic sleeve for bodice sloper/block
After testing or checking shapes from the first pattern, seam allowance, trimming
allowance (optional), buttonhole, button attaching, dart, pleat, notch, ease, etc are included
in the copied pattern known as a 'working pattern'. Working pattern is used as a base for
manipulation to generate design patterns and is required for every part of garments.
Working pattern pieces are cut and labelled for parts name and garment size to which it
belongs. This pattern is generally made by tracing the basic blocks on paper and requires
fitting and adjustments. It is then transferred onto a fabric for a test fit purpose. The
pattern pieces are stitched to get a sample garment (a prototype of the design sketch) and
checked for the fit as per the particular body measurement. After checking of the sample in
case of any fitting related problem the working pattern is modified to make it eligible for a
second test fit and is called 'revised pattern'. Based on the revised pattern stitching is done
and checked for the fit. On necessary approval of the buyer, the revised pattern is
considered to be the 'production pattern'. 3D vision of a pattern can be seen on a simulated
dummy in CAD software systems / body scanner. Thus the approved production pattern
goes to the fabric cutting section for marker making and cutting.

The interpretation of the design is done by following pattern making rules which are
primarily acquired through experience.6 The pattern pieces as per the design sketch are
derived from their individual basic block or sloper which are usually without seams as it
hinders proportioning and developing design variations. These basic pattern shapes are
used by pattern cutters for every season to draft pattern as a clothing reference with
different fitting ease for close-fitting, semi-fitted, fitted, loose-fitting or very loose-fitting.
Ease is the amount of space in a garment beyond the body measurement. The specific
amount of ease will vary from style to style.

Different garment types have different fashion features.7 A fashion feature relates to the
various physical components of the garment and its generic shape. Some of the fashion
features are darts, design lines (lines of illusion), pleats, long/short/less sleeve, sleeve in
regular/raglan style, flare skirt, collarless bodice, tapered trousers, zipper fly opening, etc.
Anything that influences the garment geometry is regarded as fashion feature (Figure 4).

Figure 4 Example of Flat/manual pattern/drafting sloper of a trouser with measuring

information.
An arrangement of fashion features that are laid to a piece of garment is defined as a
fashion style. The existence of a fashion feature may affect the relevant basic blocks by
affecting their shapes and dimensions, involve markings to locate positions and creates
added pattern pieces as per design. Accordingly, each fashion feature exclusively follow its
pattern making rule stating the drafting of such pattern pieces belonging to a particular
garment type. Every pattern maker, therefore, set their rules of understanding based on the
garment types. Due to the variety and preconception of such rules, every pattern maker
usually specializes only for making few types of garment. Hence, they categorize a new
design to its applicable garment type related to their recognized set of rules to get similar
intermediate style. The final design is achieved through addition, modification or deletion
of the fashion features from the intermediate style (Figure 5).8
Figure 5 Application of pattern making rules.
Pattern making, therefore, consists of three step namely fashion analysis, spec sheet design,
and pattern drafting. New fashion designs are analysed by disintegrating them into a look
like intermediate style. The intermediate style consists of various garment segments which
are further disintegrated and termed as secondary pattern pieces. The secondary pattern
pieces usually have features like pleats, flares, darts, and cuts to give required shapes of the
garment part. Hence, to expedite the pattern making method, often designs are adapted
from existing secondary pattern pieces, in lieu of basic block because of its accuracy of
sizing and pace with which ranges can be developed. These designs have minor variation in
fashion styles in compare to the related secondary forms.

Pattern grading is step-wise increase and/or decrease of base size or sample size
proportionate to specific instructions using a size specification sheet according to
measurements. It can be done manually or by using computerized pattern cutting software
and does not create a shape or change shape. Grading is an essential step that must be
taken before approaching sample manufacturers or factories because they require sets of
specific patterns and an order of clothing to be produced. Grading determines how the
garments will fit in all sizes. Having a range of sizes for each of clothing category fills out
minimum garment order cost effectively.

Although fashion trends come and go, the pattern making principles do not change. The
rules and methods are always followed for designing and drafting pattern pieces. Finally,
the production pattern is achieved that is correct and perfect, containing every pattern
piece required completing the garment. In the production, a pattern has the seam
allowance and all requisite information like grain line, style name, size, and sometimes the
number of cuts.9 Different signs which a pattern maker uses in patterns to communicate
with the buyer and the end users are (Figure 6):
Figure 6 Pattern Symbols.
Importance of pattern making

Pattern making converts a sketch into a garment hence it is a link between the design and
production. There are three major elements-interpretations, technique, and technology
that completes the development of garment pattern making.

Interpretation: This is the ability to read and understand the design/sketch and its
objective, technical challenges can be resolved by a technician but none of it completes
until design goal is achieved/accomplished.

Technique: The pattern maker should have a large set of tools which can be
implied/selected or used while making different specifications/designs and to achieve its
results.

Technology: To a huge extent, the efficient and fruitful customised production of a

garment is dependent upon the technological facts interpreted into the pattern making.
One (pattern maker) should have technological mindset and should understand the
production implementations of each detail in the relevant pattern.

Pre-requisite: For pattern making, knowledge of basic geometry is a must, because

pattern making is totally based on logic and mathematical calculation whether it is done
manually or by using software.

In the fashion universe, design and pattern cutting go hand-in-hand. A truly great pattern
cutter is behind every great designer. The distinctive visual style is based on the cutting
techniques that have been followed by their pattern cutters.

The pattern provides the clear idea of right style & accurate measurements of garments. A
correct pattern helps to make an appropriate sample and contains clear information on
construction, sewing allowance, grain line & fabric cutting direction and eliminates fabric
wastage. In case of the bulk production process, the factory can estimate the resources
required for construction of a particular style based on the pattern and can get more orders
from buyers. More accurate interpretation with proper techniques and technology used
reduces the pre-production process, helping the buyer to receive trouble free shipment

Design practice and pattern inspiration

During research work, and mostly while developing the design briefs for design
experiments, different approaches are practiced by the fashion designers and pattern
makers to arrive at the final design based sample garment.8 The different practices that
have so far been conducted are:

a. Sketch - Pattern - Toile - (Design alteration) - Pattern alteration -Sample garment

b. Pattern - Toile - (Design alteration) - Pattern Alteration -Sample garment
c. Sketch - Draping - Pattern -Toile - (Design alteration) - Pattern alteration - Sample garment
d. Draping - Pattern -Toile - (Design alteration) - Pattern alteration - Sample garment
e. Existing garment - Sketch - Pattern - Toile - (Design alteration) - Pattern alteration - Sample
garment
f. Existing garment - Pattern - Toile - (Design alteration) - Pattern alteration - Sample garment
g. Conceptual idea - Pattern - Toile - (Design alteration) - Pattern alteration - Sample garment
h. Textile print on paper - Draping paper on body - (Sketch) - Pattern - Toile - (Design
alteration) - Pattern alteration - Sample garment

Conclusion
Ready-made garments industry is one of the most dynamic sectors in the global trade. The
industry is expected, estimated and generate a considerable amount of revenue and
employment in a global perspective. Manufacturing garments are one of the demanded
businesses in the global arena. Pattern making methods and its way of processing are
crucial steps for the industry. With the technological development and innovation, pattern
making software packages have become more sophisticated and finely tuned to effectively
address the requirements of the apparel manufacturer. These days, pattern making tools
are carefully tailored to easily automate repetitive time-consuming tasks that can quickly
ramp up manufacturing to deliver to the fast-moving world of fashion. The pattern is most
important to make an accurate sample to buyers for collecting order. Except for pattern it
difficult to make a sample. It always provides clear idea to require resources for the
industry. It helps to reduce fabric wastage.

No matter how technology is used, manual pattern making is the mother of pattern making
software without which none can produce a pattern that will fit into a particular size
without any alteration. The industry's first choice is to digitize accurate manual pattern
otherwise even software will fail to produce satisfactory results on repeated iterations.

Acknowledgements
None
Conflict of interest
Author declares there is no conflict of interest in publishing the article.

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York: Fairchild Publications; 1972.
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Raaz, Noor Ahmed (2020) “Quality Control and Inspection in Marker Making” Retrieved form
https://textilelearner.net/quality-control-and-inspection-in-marker-making/

Quality control in marker making:

Marker is a thin paper which contains all the necessary pattern pieces
for all sizes for a particular style of garments. It is made just before
cutting and its purpose is to minimize the wastages of fabric. In case
of marker making quality is very important factor. Though quality is
a relative term.

Purposes of quality control in marker making:

The objectives of quality control in marker making can be summarized
as:
 1. To ensure the markers are made to a size ratio that gives the
required quality and quantity per order by reducing
the wastage of fabrics.
2. To ensure no garment part is missed in the marker and the
marker is of comparable length and width of the fabric being
laid.
3. To check notch or drill mark
4. Fabric width must be higher than marker width
5. Fabric length must be higher than marker length
6. Matching of green line
7. Check pattern size and dimension
8. Matching of check and stripe taking into consideration
9. Considering garments production plan
10. Cutting table length consideration
11. Pattern direction consideration

Fig:
Maker making

Cutting section starts with the receipt of piece goods and ends with
the completion of the bundles of cut parts ready for sewing. The
preparation for cutting is very important prior to the cutting
operation. Accurate cutting simplifies the sewing and pressing
operation. Cutting of fabrics or trims to size, where possible,
eliminates considerable measuring, matching, shaping and trimming
in the sewing room. Proper punching of holes and notching is
important for accurately locating parts.
Quality inspection process in marker making:
Locations with manual marker making system: In these locations, the
markers should be inspected by the Quality Control Department
before the fabric is laid. This will leave sufficient time to make any
correction to the marker that is necessary.

Locations with computer marker making (CAD) system: In location

that uses the CAD system, the marker information needs to be cross-
checked by an operator other than one who complied the marker,
before the marker is printed. This is to ensure that no operator error
has occurred. The marker can then be re-inspected by the Quality
Control Department after it has been placed on the lay of fabric prior
to cutting.

Marker inspection:

SL Check points Allowance

Ensure the correct patterns

1 No allowance
have been used.

Ensure the size ratio is

2 No allowance
correct

Ensure the correct sizes

3 have been drawn onto the No allowance
marker as per the size ratio

Ensure all the garment parts

4 have been drawn onto the No allowance
marker

5 Ensure the patterns are No allowance

facing the correct direction
in case of marker making
 modes.

Ensure the patterns have

been placed onto the marker Stripes and
6 in such a manner as to Checks 80% &
achieve the highest fabric Solid color 95%
utilization.

Ensure the marker is of the

correct widths, comparable
to the fabric so that the
7 fabric is not wasted. If the Zero to half inch
marker is too small or too
wide then incomplete
garment parts are cut.

Ensure the marker is of

8 Zero to one inch
correct length

Ensure splicing marks are

9 correctly drawn on the No allowance
marker.

Ensure all notches and drill

10 holes have been drawn on No allowance
the marker.

Ensure no unauthorized
11 alterations have been made No allowanc
to the marker.
Islam, Mayedul (2020) “Garment Pattern Grading Techniques” Retrieved from
https://textilelearner.net/garment-pattern-grading-techniques/

Pattern Grading:
Creation of design and construction of patterns for the components of
design is the first step in apparel manufacturing. This requires
determination of geometrical shape of the body surface in order that
appropriate shell structures can be produced. For pattern grading,
anthropometric data should be available for the market in which the
garment is to be sold.

Pattern grading is a technique used either to maximise or minimise

the size of a pattern. This becomes necessary when large numbers of
different sized garments have to be produced in a relatively shorter
time as is done in the garment industry. Making it possible to obtain
proper fit for all sizes without changing the title for a given
compilation of anthropometric measurements that are suitable for
a person whose body measurements lie within certain tolerance limits
of the garment size measurements. The shape and size of the
garment relative to the shape of the body, known as the fit, will be
strongly influenced by physical and mechanical properties such as
tendency of the fabric to stretch, shrink, distort, and drape due to
stresses induced during use under static and dynamic situations,
which are to be taken into account while drafting the pattern for a
garment.

By following production patterns approved sample is normally made

for medium size but if the buyer requires different size then we would
have to grade the dimension like S, L, XL, XXL, etc. Grading is an
important term in garments manufacturing which means step wise
increasing or decreasing the master patterns.
For garment pattern grading the following two techniques are
commonly used:

Manual Grading:
The desired range of size is created one by one using pattern
templates/master patterns. A first master pattern pieces are sketched
on the pattern board and then the points are marked around the
pattern pieces as per the direction of grade rules. In this way we can
get both the enlarged or reduced size patterns for all sizes of a
particular style of garments. A manually operated grading machine
can also perform this job. This device grips the master pattern pieces
and places on the pattern board as per the predetermined direction
after which appropriate edge can be traced out maintaining the grade
rule.

Advantages:

1. Cost effective process

Disadvantages:

1. Time consuming process

2. Expected accuracy may not be obtained.
Computer Aided Grading:
At first grade rules are stored in the computer memory and then the
computer can automatically develop pattern sets for all sizes using the
direction given in the grade chart.

Advantages:

1. Quick process i.e. less time consumption;

2. High accuracy may be obtained

Disadvantages:

1. High initial cost is involved

2. Skilled operator is required.

Two types of pattern grading are generally done in garment

industry:

1. Half part grading: If the increasing is done in every sides of a

pattern, then it called half part grading.

2. ¼ th part grading: If the grading acquires increasing or

decreasing in any two sides of a pattern, then it is called ¼ th part
grading.

Textile School (2021) “Pattern Grading in Garment Manufacturing” Retrieved from

https://www.textileschool.com/344/pattern-grading-in-garment-manufacturing/

Pattern Grading in Garment

Manufacturing
Pattern Grading is the process whereby patterns of different sizes are
produced from the original master pattern. This process can be performed
manually or automatically by a computerized system. Patterns are graded
according to size charts which present the sizes and the average
measurements of the population group for which the garments are intended.
Shrinkage
When the fabric is cut for making garments, it is important to ensure
that fabric is fully relaxed and is not subjected to any additional
tension or strain during rolling or unrolling while layering for cutting. So
fabrics are often relaxed prior to cutting to ensure that the shrinkage is
minimized in a garment. Garments which are unwashed and can shrink
while laundering at customers end are made with measurements with
shrinkage tolerance included.

Woven fabric garments typically shrink just a little. This will usually be
about 2-3% which is fairly unnoticeable. Knits that are not garment
dyed will be more affected by washing and drying. Shrinkage for knit
fabrics can be anywhere from 1-8% and 95% of this shrinkage will take
place the first time it is laundered. In these cases, shrinkage is
incorporated in all the patterns of a garment. This shrinkage
incorporated in patterns could be lengthwise or widthwise depending
on the type of fabric.

Shrinkage adjusting
Shrinkage adjustments should not distort the original shape and
balance of the patterns. When shrinkage is applied to a panel in
garment all corresponding patterns must also be applied with
shrinkage adjustments.

What is Pattern Grading?

Patterns initially are made in only one size. In order to produce clothing
that fits various body types and sizes, the pattern pieces must be
increased or decreased geometrically to create a complete range of
sizes. The process of resizing the initial pattern is called “grading.”
Each company determines its own grade specifications for each size,
and size specifications vary slightly from manufacturer to
manufacturer.

Grading is the method used to increase or decrease the sample size

production pattern to make up a complete size range. For example, the
sample size 10 patterns must be made larger to accommodate sizes
12, 14 and 16 and smaller for sizes 8 and 6. Each company sets
predetermined grade specifications, or rules. For example, a missy
manufacturer’s grade rules might call for increments of one and a half
inches in width and a quarter inch in length for each size.

Today most manufacturers grade pattern on CAD systems. The pattern

maker guides a cursor around the edges of the sample pattern on a
digitized table. At each of the key points, he or she pushes a button to
record a grade point. Each point is cross-referenced by a grade-rule
table stored in the computer, which enlarges or reduces the pattern
automatically according to the predetermined direction.If the pattern
was originally made by computer, data are already in the computer
and can be enlarged or reduced automatically.

Pre-programmed grade rules for increase or decrease are

automatically applied to the pieces of each grading location. Then the
computer can print out the pattern in each new size. Manufacturers
often use an outside service to make patterns, grade patterns and
make the marker.

Although many small firms still use traditional grading methods,

grading, like patternmaking, is becoming increasingly computerized.
Using a CAD system, the pattern can be resized according to a
predetermined table of sizing increments (or “grade rules”). The
computerized plotter can then print out the pattern in each size.
Because the productivity gains are so great, small to medium-sized
manufacturers are beginning to acquire their own CAD systems for
grading.

Alternatively, they may use an outside grading service to perform this

function.

Shrinkage Incorporation in Pattern

Grading
Grading and shrinkage incorporation in a pattern is very important and
plays a big role in not only getting correct fit and drape of a garment
but also measurements as graded specs. Pattern grading is a
technique of scaling a pattern to reproduce a pattern in other sizes. It
must be done accurately. To properly fit a pattern to a range of sizes,
each pattern piece needed to be graded, or systematically increased or
decreased.
The purpose of grading is to proportionally increase or decrease the
size of a pattern, while maintaining shape, fit, balance and scale of
style details. It’s important to remember that grading only makes a
shape larger or smaller and isn’t intended to change a shape. Grading
also reflects the fact that individuals of different sized are
proportionately different, not uniformly different.

Stacking or “0” point for grading

For grading it is important to have stack point which will define the “x”
or “y” grading of pattern. It is defined as “0” point located at the
centre of the pattern of a Front, back or sleeve panel. For centre front
it is perpendicular to the centre of check line. For sleeve the “0” point
is centre of sleeve at the bicep line.

Length Grade
 Front and back neck drop is applied to shoulder neck point.
Shoulder line should remain parallel between sizes.
 Body length is distributed between the shoulder neck point and
the bottom. Grading is divided between shoulder/beck point, neck
drop, armhole, waist, hip and bottom. Body length combined
grading is total of centre front length and neck drop.
 Neck width is applied at the shoulder neck point it is always
parallel to check line.
 Armhole curve is combined measurement of armhole width and
armhole height grade

Sleeve Grade
 Sleeve armhole is combined measurement of sleeve cap height
grade and sleeve bicep grade along the armhole curve.
 Sleeve length from shoulder is distributed between the sleeve
cap and bottom sleeve edge. Sleeve cap grade is applied above
bicep line and sleeve cap while balance length is divided between
bicep line and sleeve cuff.

Baukh, Oleksandra (2021) “What is Pattern Grading in the Fashion/Garment Industry” Retrieved from
https://techpacker.com/blog/design/pattern-grading-in-the-fashion-garment-industry/
https://www.slideshare.net/BalaKumar94/pattern-grading