Fabric Structure and Design

Mid-term Content

 Types of fabric and their derivatives

 Physical specification of fabrics

 Woven fabrics

 Warp Knitted fabric and Spacer Fabric

 Rib and Cord weave

Prepared by: Dr. Sushila Hooda

FD-FDDI

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 TYPES OF FABRIC CONSTRUCTION

Woven: In its simple form it consists of two series of threads, warp and weft, interlaced
at right angles to each other. The warp threads run the length of the fabric and the weft
threads run across the width of the fabric. The edge at each long side of a woven fabric is
called the selvedge and it is commonly of a different construction or appearance, to the rest of
the fabric because its function is not only to provide a firm neat edge finish to the fabric for
the sake of appearance, but also to provide a secure grip for finishing machinery. For this
reason, small regular groups of pin-holes can often be seen in a fabric selvedge showing
where it was held by the machine pin. Other types of machine use clips which do not mark
the selvedges. Thesection drawings at the side and the bottom of the plan show that warp
and weft interlace with each other in a similar manner.

Loom
Types of Loom

Knitted : Knitted fabric is a textile that results from knitting, the process of inter-looping
of yarns or inter-meshing of loops. Its properties are distinct from woven fabric in that it
is more flexible and can be more readily constructed into smaller pieces, making it ideal
for socks and hats. here are two basic varieties of knit fabric: weft-knit and warp-knit
fabric.

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Braided: A braid is a rope like thing, which is made by interweaving three or more stands,
strips, or lengths in a diagonally overlapping pattern. Braiding is one of the major
fabrication methods for composite reinforcement structures. It is probably the simplest
way of fabric formation. Braiding is an ancient art with the origins in the braiding of hair,
the tying of knots, the braiding of ropes and cables. They have good elongation
characteristics and are very pliable, curving around edges nicely. Braided products have
been traditionally used as decorative trimmings and functional elastic components in
apparel goods. Now, they are used for various industrial applications. Braided fabrics are
also used in demanding technical applications, such as for shielding wires from
electromagnetic interference or for absorbing very high impactful energy in the form of
ropes, fishing lines, parachute cords, etc., and also for satisfying fairly modest and less
demanding functions in household goods in the form of draw threads for curtains, wash
lines, or even the ubiquitous shoelace.

Non woven: Nonwoven fabric is a fabric-like material made from staple fibre (short) and
long fibres (continuous long), bonded together by chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent
treatment. The term is used in the textile manufacturing industry to denote fabrics, such as
felt, which are neither woven nor knitted.

Nonwoven fabrics are broadly defined as sheet or web structures bonded together by
entangling fiber or filaments (and by perforating films) mechanically, thermally, or
chemically. They are flat, porous sheets that are made directly from separate fibers or from
molten plastic or plastic film. They are not made by weaving or knitting and do not require
converting the fibers to yarn.

Compound Fabric: Compound fabrics or Double-faced fabrics are a form of double cloth
made of one warp and two sets of wefts, or (less often) two warps and one weft. These
fabrics have two right sides or faces and no wrong side, and include most blankets, satin
ribbons, and interlinings.

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 PHYSICAL SPECIFICATION OF FABRICS
What is Fabric Weight?

Fabric weight is a way to measure different textiles like cotton, silk, polyester, and canvas.
This measurement is determined by the thickness of the threads that make up the material.

Most fabric items will fall into one of these categories:

Lightweight fabrics
o 1gsm - 150gsm
o 0.3 oz. - 5 oz
o Examples: linen, lace, mesh, chiffon, silk, cotton, PVC, neoprene, felt

Medium weight fabrics

o 150gsm - 350gsm
5.29 oz. - 12 oz.
o Examples: velvet, taffeta, charmeuse, sateen, chambray, polyester, chino,nylon, jersey cloth

Heavy weight fabrics

o 350gsm+
12.34oz.+
o Examples: canvas, denim, suede, corduroy, polyester fleece, wool, flannel, tweed

Fabric weight is usually in the 2.5-18 oz range, and depends on the type of material used to
produce it, the weave used, and the thickness of the fibre. It is measured in grams per meter
(gsm), or ounces per yard (oz).

How is Fabric Weight Measured?

Fabric is generally measured either in metric grams, producing GSM (grams/square

meter), or, in countries that employ imperial measurements, ounces (oz), producing the
measurement of OZ (ounces/square yard). A higher number means a heavier fabric.

Fabric density, or bulk density, is the weight per unit volume of the nonwoven fabric
(kg/m3).

Fabric density:

Fabric density helps explain the thickness of textile products. It is a measurement that
provides the base weight of the fabric, given as a value of grams per square metre.

What are Wales in fabric?

In knitting, a wale is a column of loops running lengthwise, corresponding to the warp
of woven fabric; a course is a crosswise row of loops, corresponding to the filling. Most
filling knits can be made by hand or machine, although commercial fabrics are generally
machine- made.

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Wale density: Areal density is the measure of mass per unit area of the fabric. Usually
knit fabrics with tuck stitches appear thicker than the fabric having only knit stitches due to
accumulation of yarns at the tucking places. The effect of knit structures on their areal
density has been analyzed by many researchers.

What is weft density?

The density refers to the warp and weft density of the fabric. The number of yarns
arranged within 1 inch is the warp density. The fabric label similar to 60s * 40s refers to
warp yarn * weft yarn, which means that the warp direction of the fabric is 60 yarns, while
the weft direction is 40 yarns.
Crimp: compress (something) into small folds or ridges.

What is Crimp%?
You might know that woven fabric made of two sets of yarns - warp yarns and weft yarns.
Warp and weft yarns are interlaced with each another and form fabric sheet. Inside the
fabric, yarns form a wavy shape instead of straight yarn. As a result actual length of the
yarns is longer than the length of fabric width and length in fabric. Both in warp way and
weft ways. The shortening of yarn length in fabric is known as crimp.

 Make a fabric sample of 1 meter X 1 meter

 Pull out warp and weft yarns (of full length) from the fabric sample
 Remove crimp from yarns and straighten to its actual length
 Measure the length of the straighten warp and wefts. Assume that you got straighten
length of warps are 1.05 meter and weft yarn length is 1.08 meter.

Then calculate crimp% by using following formula.

Yarn Crimp% = 100 X (Straighten Yarn length - Yarn length in fabric)/Fabric Length

Warp Crimp% = 100 X [(length of warps in straighten form - warp wise fabric sample
length)/Warp wise fabric sample length]

Weft Crimp% = 100 X [(length of weft in straighten form - weft wise fabric sample
length)/Weft wise fabric sample length]

Fabric thickness is defined as the distance between the two fabric surfaces under a
specified applied pressure, which varies if the fabric is high-loft (or compressible).

The thickness of any compressible material such as woven fabric, knitted fabric, and the
non-woven fabric is defined as the thickness of such kind of material when the fabric
specimen is placed between two plane surfaces of incompressible metal. The surfaces of
the circular pressing plates are kept parallel to each other. The specimens are tested under
a specified pressure.

What is GSM?

GSM stands for grams per square meter. Fabric GSM means the weight of one square meter

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 of fabric in grams. GSM is also written as gm/m2. You can calculate GSM for woven and
knitted fabric using one of the following methods.

Calculating Fabric GSM by means of instruments:

Apparatus required
1. Round GSM cutter and GSM Pad
2. Weighing Balance.

Method:

1. Cut 5 swatches from the different places of the fabric.

2. Weight all test swatches accurately and calculate the average weight of swatches.
3. Multiply the average weight of swatches by 100 to calculate the GSM of the sample fabric.
(Normally, the area of round GSM cutter is 1/100 square meters.)

Cover Factor of Woven Fabric:

The cover factor of woven fabric is defined as the extent of coverage of yarns in the fabric.
The maximum cover can be a situation in which the yarns touch closely with the adjustment
yarns without air spaces. The cover factor shows how much of the fabric in the direction of
warp threads is filled in by the weft threads and vice versa.

Cover factor is a number that indicates the extent to which the area of a fabric is covered by
one set of threads. For any woven fabric, there are two cover factors: a warp cover factor
and a weft cover factor. Under the cotton system, the cover factor is the ratio of the number
of threads per inch to the square root of the cotton yarn count.

Cloth cover factor = Warp cover factor + Weft cover factor – (Warp cover factor × Weft
cover factor / 28)

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 Types of Weaves
1. Plain Weave: Most simple and most common type of construction Inexpensive to
produce, durable, Flat, tight surface is conducive to printing and other finishes. The
simplest of all patterns is the plain weave. Each weft yarn goes alternately over and under
one warp yarn. Each warp yarn goes alternately over and under each weft yarn. Some
examples of plain weave fabrics are crepe, taffeta, organdy and muslin.

Method of Construction: Each filling yarn goes alternately under and over the warp yarns

Household Uses: Draperies, tablecloths, upholstery.

Different types of Fabric Come under this Category:

 Chiffon: A very soft and filling plain woven Silk texture consisting of the Finest Singles
which are hard twisted and woven in the gum condition. The cloth is afterward degummed.

 Georgette: A cotton Crepe fabric made in imitation of silk georgette, with hard twisted
warp and weft yarn. A good Cloth is woven plain with right and left twist thread arranged
in 2 and 2 order in warp and weft.

 Shantung: Coarse Silk fabric with Slubs. Mostly Tussah Silk but can be Polyester, nylon
and viscose.

 Seersucker: It is created by holding some warp yarns at tight tension, some at slack
tension. Those at Slack Tension puff up to form a sort of Blis-ter-effect, often slack and
tight yarn of different colour.

Plain weave derivative

1. Rib Weaves: Rib weaves are usually made by having two or more warp yarns together, inter-
lacing as one yarn with the individual weft yarns, or two or more weft yarns together,
interlacing as one yarn with individual warp yarns. The groups of yarns interlace in plain
weave order with the single yarns. Fabrics with a rib weave are reversible unless one side is
made the face by finishing or printing.

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Classification of rib weave:

Regular warp rib:

Regular weft rib:

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Irregular warp rib:

Irregular weft rib:

Difference between warp rib weave and weft rib weave:

Warp Rib Weave Weft Rib Weave

1. It produces rib or cord effect in the weft 1. It produces rib or cord effect in the warp
direction. direction.

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 2. Fiber yarn used as warp and coarser as 2. Finer yarn used as weft and coarser as
weft. warp.

3. The number of ends are more than the 3. The number of picks is more than the
number of picks in the unit space. number of ends in unit space.

4. Warp yarn single yarn and weft yarn 4. Weft yarn single yarn and warp yarn
bundle yarn. bundle yarn.

5. Two or more weft yarns are passed over 5. Two or more warp yarn is passed over or
or under a warp yarn. under a weft.

6. The ends interlace with the picks. 6. The picks interlace with the ends.

2. Basket Weave: A variation of the plain weave usually basket or checkerboard pattern
Contrasting colors are often used Inexpensive, less durable than plain weave. Basket
weave is the amplification in height and width of plain weave. Two or more yarns have to
be lifted or lowered over or under two or more picks for each plain weave point. When the
groups of yarns are equal, the basket weave is termed regular, otherwise it is termed
irregular.

There two types of weave come under this category i.e. regular and irregular weave.

a) Regular Basket Weave: This is commonly used for edges in drapery, or as a bottom in
very small weave repeats, because the texture is too loose-fitting for big weave repeats;
moreover, yarns of different groups can slip, group and overlap, spoiling the appearance.
This is why only basket weaves 2-2, 3-3 and 4-4 exist.

b) Irregular Basket Weave: This is generally a combination of irregular warp and weft ribs.

Method of Construction: Two or more warps simultaneously interlaced with one or more
fillings.
Household Uses: Wall hangings, pillows.

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Example of Basket weave:
 Monks cloth: Heavy cotton Cloth in a coarse basket weave, chiefly used for draperies.

 Oxford; Oxford weave fabric consists of two, thin warp yarns woven to very soft,
thicker yarn in the filling direction. The unbalanced construction of the fabric causes
the thin yarns to break and leave tiny holes. The primary use of oxford weave fabric is
in cotton shirting. It is also used in other forms of apparel.

3. Twill Weave: Creates a diagonal, chevron, hounds tooth, corkscrew, or other design.
The design is enhanced with colored yarn is strong and may develop a shine. Twill
weave is characterized by diagonal ridges formed by the yarns, which are exposed on
the surface. These may vary in angle from a low slope to a very steep slope. Twill weaves
are more closely woven, heavier and stronger than weaves of comparable fiber and yarn
size. They can be produced in fancy designs.
Method of Construction: Three or more shafts; warp or filling floats over two or more
counterpart yarns in progressive steps right or left
Household Uses: Upholstery, comforters, pillows.

Twill Angle: Twill angle is the angle which is produced by twill line with respect to the
horizontal line. This twill angle depends on following factors.
1. Ratio between EPI and PPI.
2. Difference between warp and weft count.
3. Rate of advancement its interlacement warp and weft.

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Classification of Twill Weave
Twill weaves can be classified from four points of view –

a) According to the way of construction

 Warp-way twill weave: 3/1 warp-way twill, etc.

 Weft-way twill weave: 2/3 weft-way twill, etc.

b) According to the direction of twill lines on the face of the fabric

c) According to the face yarn (warp or weft)

d) According to the nature of the produced twill line

We can classify another way:

a) According to the way of construction

 Warp way twill weave: In warp way twill weave warp float run in the warp direction.

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 Fig: Warp way twill weave
 Weft way twill weave: In weft way twill weave weft float run in the weft direction.

b) According to the direction of twill lines on the face of the fabric

S-Twill:
When the twill runs from the lower right to the upper left corner, the twill is known as a left-
hand twill. It is produced by downward displacement of the interlacing points, if the starting
point is bottom left corner or upward displacement of the interlacing points, if the starting point
is bottom right corner. For example, it is expressed by the formula number 3/2S, where S-
indicate the direction of twill line.

Fig: S-twill weave

Z-Twill:
When the diagonal line runs from the lower left corner to the upper right corner, the twill is
known as a right-hand twill. About 85% of all twill-woven fabrics are right-hand twill. The
alignment of twill Line is parallel to the middle portion of ‘Z’, so it is called Z – twill.

Fig: Z-Twill weave

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c) According to the face yarn (warp or weft)

Warp face twill weave: Warp-faced twill have a predominance of warp yarns on the face of
the fabric, with 2/1, 3/1, 3/2, 4/2 and so on. The top digit of the fraction line is higher than the
bottom one, so it is called warp-face twill.

Fig: Warp face twill weave

Weft face twill weave:

Weft-faced twill have a predominance of weft yarns on the surface of the fabric with 2/3, ¾,
½, 2/4. And so on. The top digit of the fraction line is smaller than the bottom one, so it is
called weft-face twill.

Fig: Weft face twill weave

Double face twill weave: Even sided twills expose an equal amount of warp and weft yarn on
each side of a fabric. In this case the top and bottom both are of the fraction line are same, so
it is called double face twill.

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 Fig: Double face twill weave

d) According to the nature of the produced twill line

Simple twill weave: There are two types of simple twill, such as simple warp twill and simple
weft twills. Each warp end is raised over or lowered under only one pick in the repeat, with
pattern of ½, 1/3, ¼, 2/1, 3/1, 4/1, and so on. ½, 1/3, ¼, etc. are the simple weft twill and 2/1,
3/1, 4/1, etc. are the simple warp twill.

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 Fig: Simple twill weave

Expanded twill weave: Each warp end is raised over or lowered under more than one adjacent
pick in the repeat. Lf the warp and weft twill lines are of equal width; the fabric is double-
faced. It is represented by the formula number of 2/3, 3/2, 4/4, 2/4, and so on.

Fig: Expanded twill weave

Multiple twill weave: In each repeat, there are at least two warp twill lines or two weft twill
lines of different width. If the prominence of warp yarn is more than it is called warp-face
multiple twill and the prominence of weft yarn is more than it is called weft-face multiple twill.
If the prominence of both warp and weft yarns are same than it is called double-face multiple
twill. Lt is represented by the formula number of and so on.

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 Fig: Multiple twill weave

e) Balanced and unbalanced twill: In these types of twills the warp and weft floats may be
equal or unequal. In other words, the twills may be of the reversible or irreversible types.
Accordingly, they may be known as balanced and unbalanced twills. Examples of balanced
twills are 2/2, 3/3, 4/4, 5/5 etc. Examples of unbalanced twills are 2/3, 4/2, 5/3 etc. The 2/2
twill is popularly known as “Gaberdene” weave.

Fig: Balanced and unbalanced twill

Derivatives of Twill Weave

Zigzag/waved/pointed twill weave

 It is the simplest and one of the most important modifications of twill weave produced by
reversing the direction of twill at suitable interval.
 A point is selected (usually the last warp is selected) as the reversing point and so it is
sometime call as point twill.
 In this twill pointed or straight draft is used.
 This twill is produced by combining S and Z twist.

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According to reversing of direction there are two type of zigzag twill:

1. Horizontal zigzag twill.

2. Vertical zigzag twill.

Horizontal zigzag twill: When the reversal direction of twill line occurs upon the warp yarn,
it results a horizontal zigzag twill. Here the basic twill is extended in warp direction. Here the
number of warp yarn in a repeat is double of the number of wefts. In horizontal zigzag twill
pointed draft is used.

Vertical zigzag twill: When the reversal direction of twill line occurs upon the weft yarn, it
results a vertical zigzag twill, here the basic twill is extended in weft direction. Here the number
of weft yarn in a repeat is double of the number of warps. In Vertical zigzag twill straight draft
is used.

Method-I Converting 3/3 Twill into zig-zag twill

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 Herringbone Zig-Zag

In hearing bone twill straight draft is used. There are two type of hearing bone design-

1. Horizontal hearing bone twill.

2. Vertical hearing bone twill.

Horizontal hearing bone twill: When hearing bone twill is created by extending
the basic twill in warp direction, horizontal hearing bone result in. The repeat size of
horizontal herringbone is calculated from the regular or base twill weave like as
horizontal zigzag weave. In this case the number of warp yarn in herringbone weave is
double of the number of warp yarn of base twill and the number of weft yarn is same
as base twill weave.

Vertical hearing bone twill: When hearing bone twill is created by extending the
basic twill in weft direction, vertical hearing bone result in. The repeat size of vertical
herringbone is calculated from the regular or base twill weave like as vertical zig-zag
weave. In this case the number of weft yarn in herringbone weave is double of the
number of weft yarn of base twill and the number of warp yarn is same as base twill
weave.

(b) Reverse Twill –In this weave the number of threads in warp & weft of one repeat remains
same in the design. In the following design one repeat of design has 8 threads in warp & weft.
Reverse twill design should have same number of threads in face & back i.e. 2/2 ,3/3 , 4/4 etc.

Broken Twill –It is produced by breaking a regular twill. A broken twill weave composed of
vertical sections which are alternately right hand and left hand in direction. In Broken Twills,

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twills are constructed by breaking the continuity of any continuous twill weave. They are
formed by reversing the pattern part way through the repeat.
These twills are constructed by breaking the continuity of any continuous twill weave. The
continuity can be broken in either a regular or an irregular order. Broken twills generally give
a stripe-like effect. The direction of the stripes can tend to be in either the direction of warp or
weft accordingly as the continuity is broken warp or weft way.

Diamond Twill Weave:

It is a derivatives of twill weave. It constructed on the basis of zigzag twill principle. It

is obtaining by combining a horizontal and vertical zigzag twill. So here in the repeat
the number of both warp and weft thread are double then that in basic twill. Diamond
is a reversible design. So, it may be divided into two equal parts in both vertical and
horizontal axis. Pointed or V-drafting system is used to produce diamond design.

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Diamond design geometrical about their vertical and horizontal axis. In this weave
pointed draft is obtained.

To contract a diamond design at first the design repeat is selected. It the basic twill is
3 up 3 down, that is 6×6 in size, the repeat of design will be 12×12 in size.

Uses: Towel, Bed cover, Table cloth, Pillow cover etc.

Diaper Weave: Diaper weaves are symmetrical about their diagonal axes, these are based on
herringbone draft and vertical waved twilled peg-plan.

In the repeat of a diaper design the number of warp and weft threads are two type more than
that in its basic twill. So, if the basic twill size is 8×8. Its diaper design repeat size will 16×16.
In case of diaper design, Broken or straight draft is used

Use: Same diamond.

CHARACTERISTICS OF TWILL WEAVE

 The diagonally arranged interlacing of warp and weft, Provide greater pliability and
resilience than the plain weave.
 Twill has less binding points than plain.
 Twill weave fabrics are more tightly weave because the yarns are usually closely beaten,
 Gives better cover than plain weave.

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  Not get dirty as quickly as the plain weave.
 Making especially durable fabric.
 Twill has more ends per unit area and picks per unit area than plain cloth.
 Gives more cloth thickness and mass per unit area.
 Twill weave have, Good aesthetic properties than plain weaves and softer than plain
weaves as well.
 Fabric with these lines may become flattened by wear and
pressure, and thus become shiny.
 Twill weave are commonly used in men’s suits and coats.

4. Satin and Sateen

Satin and sateen are basic weaves that have a smooth, lustrous surface and few interlacement
points. The main difference between the two is that satin is warp-faced, while sateen is weft-faced.
 Warp-faced: The surface of the fabric is made up of warp threads, with only one warp thread
interlacing with another series of yarn.
 Weft-faced: The surface of the fabric is made up of weft threads.
 Long floats: The fabric has long floats, which are areas where no interlacing points touch each other.
 Irregular intersection points: The intersection points are irregular, so no twill lines form in the fabric.
 Loose structure: Only one warp or weft yarn interlaces at a time.

Method of Construction:
 Floats one warp yarn over four or more weft yarns, then tied down with one thread,
resulting in a smooth face.
 Common Fabrics: Satin, satin-weave fabrics out of fabrics such as cotton & Charmeuse

Household Uses: Draperies, quilts

4x1 Satin Weave 1x4 Sateen Weave

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 Examples of Fabric:
 Satin: Used for ribbons, trimmings, dresses, linings etc, and originally was an all silk
fabric with a fine rich glossy surface formed in a warp satin weave. The warp is much
finer and more closely set than the weft, and the latter which only shows on the under
side is frequently composed of cotton. Double faced Satins are made on the reversible
warp backed principle, with one side differently colour from the other.
 Sateen: A cotton fabric is made in 5 thread weft face sateen, and woven like cotton. It
is sold in bleached, mercerized or printed condition.
 Charmeuse: It is a light weight fabric woven with a satin weave, where the warp
threads cross over three or more of the backing (weft) threads. The front side of the
fabric has a satin finish-lustrous and reflective-whereas the back has a dull finish.

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 Warp Knitted fabric and Spacer Fabric

Knitted fabrics are produced by two general methods – warp knitting, and weft knitting,
and each method produces a variety of types of knitted fabrics.

Warp Knitted Fabric

Warp knitted fabrics are made in a special knitting machine with yarns from warp beam.
Unlike weft knits, they are knitted from multiple yarns, with yarns forming loops in
adjacent wales. The fabric may be identified with a pick glass. The face side of the fabric
has slightly inclined vertical knitting loops whereas the backside of the fabric has
inclined horizontal floats. They do not ravel. Warp knit fabrics are constructed with yarn
loops formed in a vertical or warp direction. All the yarns used for a width of a warp knit
are placed parallel to each other in a manner similar to the placement of yarns in weaving.
The fabrics that are made of great quality with the technique are generally made with
Tricot and Raschel knits.

1. Tricot Knit Fabric

Tricot knits are made almost exclusively from filament yarns because uniform diameter
and high quality are essential yarn characteristics for use with the very high- speed tricot
knitting machines. Fabrics constructed by the tricot knitting machine are usually plain or
have a simple geometric design. The front surface of the fabric has clearly defined
vertical wales, and the back surface has crosswise courses.

Tricot Knitting: compound needle in action

Warping: Yarn specifications
• Filament yarn: PET, Nylon, Spandex
• Spun yarn not recommended for warp knitting
• Textured
• Linear density: Depending on machine gauge and number of guide bars
• Mono or multi filament
Direct Warping machine
• Machine is different for normal and elastane yarn
• Creel capacity: 600+ ends
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 • Stop motions: for yarn break & full beam
• Static eliminators
• Speed: max. 1000 mpm
• Programmable touch screen
• Beam size: w21” x d21” or 21” x 32”
•
2. Raschel Knit Fabric

Raschel knits are produced from spun or filament yarns of different weights and types.
Most raschel knits can be identified by their intricate designs, the open-space look of
crochet or lace, and an almost three-dimensional surface effect design.
Raschel machine (seamless)
Double needle bar Raschel machine is capable of joining thick, sectional fabric structures
smoothly and seamlessly.
Jacquard structures , production of homogeneous and beautiful products comprising a
mixture of thick fabric and thin fabric.

To produce cylindrical goods with less necessity for a sewing process.

Improved pattern effects for manufacture of innerwear, such as seamless foundation wear
and pantyhose up to outerwear.
Multi-bar jacquard raschel machine
• To produce delicate elastic & non elastic laces for galloons and laces, intimate apparels,
lingerie and outerwear
• Working width: 335 cm = 132 inches
• Yarn let-off device
Three electronically controlled yarn let-off gears for ground guide bars and jacquard bars
Electronic guide bar control: ground guide bars, jacquard bars and pattern bars (string Bars)

Notations
Notations are symbolical representation of objects, structures, designs and fabrics.
Warp knitted fabrics notation is an important part of fabric manufacturing. Notations
of warp knitted fabrics are graphical representation of the designs using dot notations
and elements of notations.
Importance of Notation Diagram
By notation diagram one can easily show the structure of knit fabric.
Chance of showing different types of stitch and easily differentiate from original one.
It is easy to set out the needle.
Easy to set out the cam for different types of stitch.
In a single word, one can easily set the machine by showing the notation which is very
tough when it is done by showing the original fabric.

Lapping
An overlap followed by an underlap in the opposite direction (closed lap)
An overlap followed by an underlap in the same direction (open lap)
Only overlaps and no underlaps (open lap)
Only underlaps and no overlaps (laying-in)

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Neither overlaps nor underlaps (miss-lapping)

Pillar stitch (closed lap)

Yarn is wrapped around same needle
No lateral connection of wales, no fabric formation
Direction of feet in same direction
Chain notation: 1-0//

Pillar stitch (open lap)

Yarn is wrapped around same needle
No lateral connection of wales, no fabric formation
Direction of feet changes in every course
Chain notation: 1-0/0-1//

Basic tricot

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Atlas structure
• Guide bar lays the same yarn continuously in one direction into the adjacent needle
and reverses to the starting needle
• Most striking zigzag pattern is produced by using coloured yarns

Mesh
2 Row open Atlas Mesh (Two GBs)
GB1: 1-0/1-2/2-3/3-1//
Threading: 1 in 1 out
GB2: 2-3/2-1/1-0/1-2//
Threading: 1 out 1 in

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Net
Net structures
Net: Pillar stitch + inlay yarn
Honey comb net: 2 GBs
Square net: 3 GBs
Viscose inlay yarn is used for creating burnout styles
Nylon mono filament yarn (20d) is used for honey comb net
Polyester multi filament yarn is used for square net

GB1: 1-0/0-1// (pillar)

Inlay GB2: 0-0/1-1/0-0/3-3/2-2/3-3//
Inlay GB3: 2-2/1-1/2-2/0-0/1-1/0-0//

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 Warp knit products

SPACER FABRICS
A sandwich/spacer fabric is a 3D construction made of two separate fabrics, connected in
between by yarns or knitted layers.
The fabric thickness determined by length of the connecting yarns/layers.
When produced on warp machines, these fabrics are known as spacers.
In the case of weft knitted fabrics, they are known as sandwich fabrics.

Spacer fabrics are a kind of 3D manufactured textile structures in which two outer
fabric layers are connected by a layer of pile threads. Because of the layer of these spacer
yarns, a defined distance can be established between the outer layers, which generally
varies from 1.5 to 10 mm.
spacer mesh, also called 3D mesh and sandwich mesh is essentially 3 separate layers of
fabric knit together – a face and a back connected by a monofilament yarn to produce
the “connecting cushion”. Each layer is knit simultaneously by a single machine.

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 Types of connecting layers
• Single layers – the layer is produced on one bed (jersey) or on both beds (rib,
interlock) and can have a perpendicular or an inclined disposition between the
separate fabrics.

 Double layers - two layers are knitted separately on the beds, connected at a certain
point with a rib evolution; if a specified amount of rib courses will be produced also in
the exterior fabrics, then the connection will be "X" shaped, with possibilities to extend
more the rib dimensions or to alternate the disposition of the two layers.

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Advantages of spacer fabric
The major benefit of using spacer material is to replace polyurethane (PU), neoprene,
and other types of foams that are laminated to textile fabrics for creating bulk, softness,
flexibility, resilience, and so on. These foams, however, have some serious drawbacks.
For instance, foams are generally flammable and are extremely uncomfortable because
of their extremely small cavities. Their thermosphysiological properties are poor, their
compression and resilience properties deteriorate with time, and their mouldability,
delamination, maintenance of original thickness when moulded into complex 3-D
shapes, and washing and drying properties are often poor and do not meet the standard
required. Relatively stiff monofilaments generally used as spacer material more or less
overcome these drawbacks associated with laminated structures

Applications of spacer fabrics

The major product applications for warp-knitted spacer materials are vehicle seat covers
(both solid or net structures in the face or back or both surfaces); automotive interiors
(lining for doors, roofs, convertible hoods, and so on); seat heating systems for cars;
mud flaps for trucks and buses; insoles and face fabric for sports and other shoes; lining
for rubber and other boots; protective inner lining; mattress underlays and mattress
covers for prevention and management of incontinence and pressure sores; for
children’s beds; diving and surfing suits; sports equipment; high-performance
sportswear; reinforcement for composite structures; bras; underwear; swimwear;
shoulder pads; fluid filters; geotextiles; bandages; plaster casts; braces; controlled
release of drugs, antimicrobials, cosmetics, and so on; and finally heat and moisture
regulation fabrics

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