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Fae Top Pattern | PDF | Crochet | Sewing
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Fae Top Pattern

The document provides a crochet pattern for 'The Fae Top' by Spirit and Thread Crochet, intended for personal use only. It includes materials needed, sizing options, gauge, and detailed instructions for creating the bralette cups and waistband. The pattern emphasizes crediting the creator if the tops are made for sale or promotion.

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kgtkkrt2zs
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
5K views24 pages

Fae Top Pattern

The document provides a crochet pattern for 'The Fae Top' by Spirit and Thread Crochet, intended for personal use only. It includes materials needed, sizing options, gauge, and detailed instructions for creating the bralette cups and waistband. The pattern emphasizes crediting the creator if the tops are made for sale or promotion.

Uploaded by

kgtkkrt2zs
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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INSTAGRAM:

@SPIRITANDTHREADCROCHET
FACEBOOK: SPIRIT AND THREAD
CROCHET

This pattern was created for personal use.


Please do not resell this pattern. If you make
these tops to sell or promote, please credit
me in your images. THANK YOU for
supporting a small, lady-owned business!

THE FAE TOP


A crochet pattern by Spirit and Thread Crochet
Materials:
4mm crochet hook

Tapestry needle

Scissors

300-500 yards of size 4, worsted weight yarn

Stitch markers

Choose your size:


XS S M L
30A 30C 34D/DD 36DDD
30B 30D/DD 36C 38DD/DDD
32A 32C 36D/DD 40DD/DDD
32B 32D/DD 38B 42D/DD/DDD
34A 34B 38C
34C 38D
36A 40B
38A 40C
36B 40D

If you have more questions about sizing feel free to send me an email at spirit.and.thread.crochet@gmail.com.

When there are different stitch counts per size, they will be written as XS (S, M, L).

Gauge:
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND checking your gauge – I’ve been told I crochet tight!

15 HDC by 14 rows is a 4-inch square, size 4mm hook

Stitches:
CH - chain

SC - single crochet

HDC - half double crochet

DC - double crochet

TC - triple crochet

Picot – chain 3, slip into first chain

TC2tog – triple crochet two together

SK – skip

SC2tog – single crochet two together

* * - indicates repeat
Bralette Cups:

Chain 20 (20, 20, 22).

Row 1: CH1 and turn your work (DOES NOT count as


first HDC). HDC in second chain from hook and across
until you have one stitch left.

In the last stitch, place 5 HDC to wrap around to the

other side.
HDC across.

Row 2: CH1 and turn your work. HDC into second stitch
from hook.

HDC until you reach the 3rd HDC at the top of your cup.
(It may help to place a stitch marker in this stitch for
each row). Place 5 HDC in the 3rd HDC from your
previous row. HDC in the remaining stitches.
Repeat Row 2 until you have a total of 6 (7, 10, 13) HDC
rows, or until you reach your desired cup coverage
minus 2 inches (to account for additional rows
upcoming).

Bralette finishing row 1: CH4 (counts as first TC, CH1).


TC in first stitch. *SK2, (TC CH1 TC) in next* until you are
1, 2, or 3 stitches away from the 3rd/5 HDC at the top of
your bralette.

If you are 1 or 2 stitches away, continue to next step.

If you are 3 stitches away, SK2 and TC in stitch before


the middle stitch.
In middle stitch, 2TC CH1 2TC. Mirror your work on the
other side of your cup – if you placed a TC in the 2nd/5
HDC, place another in the 4th/5 HDC. Or, skip ½ stitches.
Then continue to *TC CH1 TC, SK2* down the second
side of your cup.

TC CH1 TC in final stitch.


Bralette finishing row 2: CH1 and turn (counts as first
HDC). HDC in each TC and CH until you reach the middle
chain at the top of your bralette cup.

In the middle CH, 5HDC.

HDC along the second side. Fasten off.

Repeat to make a second cup, but don’t fasten off.


Waistband:

When you finish your second cup, lay your cups like this.
You will be crocheting across the bottoms to connect
them, in the direction of the yellow arrow.

Row 1: CH1 and turn your work to crochet along the


bottom. Place 1 SC per HDC row and 3 per TC row. SC
across.

After your final SC in the first cup, SC into the first stitch
on the second cup. SC across.
SC in the final stitch.

Row 2: CH1 and turn (counts as first SC). SC across.

Row 3: CH1 and turn (counts as first HDC). HDC across.


Row 4: CH1 and turn (counts as first SC). SC across.

Row 5: CH1 and turn (counts as first HDC). HDC across.

Row 6: CH1 and turn (counts as first SC). SC across.

SIZING OPTION: If you want more length on your


waistband, continue adding rows 5 and 6. End on a SC
row.
Waistband side:

Row 1: CH1 and turn your work 90 degrees to work


along the side of your waistband/cup.

SC in the SC you just placed. SC across your waistband


rows, 1 per row. Then SC into the side of the bralette
cup for 7, (8, 10, 12) stitches.

Row 2: CH3 and turn (counts as first TC). In next 2


stitches, TC2tog.
*CH2. TC2tog (in next stitch, SK1, in third stitch).*
Repeat once.

TC in remaining stitches.

Row 3: CH1 and turn (counts as first SC). SC across.


Row 4: CH3 and turn (counts as first TC). In next 2
stitches, TC2tog.

*CH2. TC2tog (in next stitch, SK1, in third stitch).*


Repeat once.

TC in remaining stitches.

Row 5: CH1 and turn (counts as first SC). SC across.

Repeat rows 4 and 5 until desired waistband side length


is reached, ending on a SC row. For size small, I did 3 TC
rows.
Finishing row : CH1 and turn. SK1, SC in next. Add
waistband loops (SC, CH4, SK1) as desired with SC in
between. SC in last stitch.

Fasten off.

BEFORE REPEATING ON SECOND SIDE, you will cut a 24


inch piece of yarn to sew up between your two bralette
cups using a tapestry needle.

For a size small, I sewed about one third of the way up.
The more coverage you want, the further you should
sew up.
Slip stitch to connect onto the bottom of the second
waistband side.

Repeat steps to match your first waistband side.

At the end of your waistband loops row, don’t fasten


off.

If your row finishes with your hook at the bottom (blue


circle) proceed to the next step.

If your row finishes with your hook at the top (yellow


circle), slip stitch down to the bottom (blue circle).
CH1 and turn your work so you are crocheting along the
bottom of your bralette. SC across, 1SC per SC row, 3SC
per TC, and 1SC per stitch.

SC into the final stitch.

CH1 and turn your work. SC into first stitch. *SK2, (3TC
picot 3TC) in next, SK2, SC.*
Repeat across until 6 or fewer stitches remain.

• If 6 stitches remain, place your final shell.


• If 5 remain, SK2, (3TC picot 3TC) in next, SK1,
SC.
• If 4 remain, SK1, (2TC picot 2TC) in next, SK1,
SC.*
• If 3 or fewer remain, SC in remaining stitches.

SC along your waistband loops, 1SC per CH and SC.

Continue to SC along the top edge of your side


waistband rows.
SC into the first stitch on the side of your bralette cup.
*SK1, (2DC picot 2DC) in next, SK1, SC.*

Repeat until you reach your top middle stitch, the 3rd/5
HDC. Finish your final shell so the SC lands in that
middle stitch (you may have to skip 1 more or one less
stitch within the final shell to get the final SC to land in
the middle stitch).
CH your desired strap length. I chain 50.

CH1 and turn. SC in the second chain from hook and


across.

SC again in the middle stitch. Mirror your final shell on


this second side.
Continue adding shells (*SK1, (2DC picot 2DC) in next,
SK1, SC.*) until there is not enough room for a full shell
before the point where your cups are sewn together.

SC in remaining stitches. SC2tog in the two top stitches


where your cups are sewn together.
Mirror SC’s on the second side. Then continue your
shells up the first side of the second cup.

Add your second strap to match the first.


Add shells down the second side of your second cup.

SC across the top edge of the side of your waistband.


SC into waistband loop stitches.

Slip stitch into first stitch.

Fasten off.

Sew in all ends.

Chain a waistband strap. I chain until I reach about 24-


36 inches.

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