Independent Journal of Management &

Production
E-ISSN: 2236-269X
ijmp@ijmp.jor.br
Instituto Federal de Educação, Ciência e
Tecnologia de São Paulo
Brasil

Moretti, Isabel Cristina; Braghini Junior, Aldo

REFERENCE MODEL FOR APPAREL PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Independent Journal of Management & Production, vol. 8, núm. 1, enero-marzo, 2017, pp.
232-262
Instituto Federal de Educação, Ciência e Tecnologia de São Paulo
Avaré, Brasil

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 INDEPENDENT JOURNAL OF MANAGEMENT & PRODUCTION (IJM&P)
http://www.ijmp.jor.br v. 8, n. 1, January - March 2017
ISSN: 2236-269X
DOI: 10.14807/ijmp.v8i1.538

REFERENCE MODEL FOR APPAREL PRODUCT

DEVELOPMENT

Isabel Cristina Moretti

Federal University of Technology – Paraná (UTFPR), Brazil
E-mail: isabelmoretti@utfpr.edu.br

Aldo Braghini Junior

Federal University of Technology – Paraná (UTFPR), Brazil
E-mail: aldo@utfpr.edu.br

Submission: 07/09/2016
Accept: 20/09/2016

ABSTRACT

The purpose of this paper was to develop a reference model for the
implementation of the process of product development (PDP) for
apparel. The tool was developed through an interactive process of
comparison between theoretical. Managers in companies and
professionals working in this market can utilize the reference model
as a source for the organization and improvement of the PDP for
apparel and the universities as a reference source for systematized
teaching of this process. This model represents the first
comprehensive attempt to develop an instrument at a detailed level
(macro phases, phases, activities, inputs and outputs at each stage
and at the gates) to systematize the PDP process for fashion
products and to consider its particularities.

Keywords: product development; reference model; apparel.

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1. INTRODUCTION

Apparel production is one of the industries with the most potential for
exportation and one of the oldest industries in the world. It is also one of the most
global industries because the majority of companies produce for the international
textile and apparel market (GEREFFI; FREDERICK, 2010). In the textile chain, the
apparel sector unites a large number of companies. However, it is the sector with the
lowest level of innovation compared with other links in the textile chain. This fact
originates from the production process, which demands a large amount of manual
labor. Besides the lack of innovation, apparel industries mostly have low technical
and managerial capacity (BNDES SECTOR, 2009). In view of these characteristics, it
is essential for the industry to innovate in product design, management and
operational processes to maintain profitability (SENANAYAKE; LITTLE, 2001).

The paradigm of effective management in the apparel industry is related to the

prediction of consumer needs and desires. Accordingly, the companies in this sector
need to respond with innovation and products that are designed and manufactured
properly (DILLARD et al., 2000; MAY-PLUMLEE; LITTLE, 2006). These companies
need to develop and manufacture lines of high-quality, diversified and competitively
priced products (KWAK et al., 2010). They also need to reduce the product
development (PD) time and manage employees effectively to meet these challenges
(DILLARD et al., 2000). In this environment, in which the competition is intense and
dynamic, to dominate the market, a company’s ability to conceive and design a great
variety of quality products faster than its competitors is instrumental
(WHEELWRIGHT; CLARK, 1992). For product development to meet these demands,
the effective management of the product development process (PDP) as a whole
becomes an indispensable factor.

Because of the competition, apparel manufacturers seek ways to be more

flexible, more efficient and better focused in their forecasting, production and sale of
products (KINCADE et al., 2007). The dependence of the apparel industry on product
design makes the PDP faster, requiring the development of a large number of
products at the same time. May-Plumlee and Little (1998) present these aspects as
follows. First, the industry products are developed in seasonal lines (collections)
instead of as individual products. A line of apparel may be constituted by different

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groups of products that should be managed simultaneously with the process.

Consequently, the process proves to be more complex because some decisions
made during the PDP have implications for the entire product line, while others apply
only to a limited number of products. Second, several lines of new products should
be produced per year. Third, the strategy for the development of any product in the
line of apparel may be different from the strategy used in the development of other
types of products (MAY-PLUMLEE; LITTLE, 1998).

Due to the specific aspects of the development of apparel products, they

present some individual characteristics. The creation of a methodology, a reference
model for the PDP, specific to the apparel industry and adapted to its characteristics,
is a way for these companies to structure their PDP, increasing the performance of
the development process and, consequently, the companies’ market share. Other
authors have proposed models for the product development process for fashion
wear; however, the stages throughout the process and the relationships between
them are not exploited, and the models have proved themselves to be superficial.

This study focuses on apparel companies that produce fashion wear and
develop it in collections throughout the year, the characteristics of which increase the
complexity of the PDP in this sector. The purpose of this research is to propose a
reference model for the process of apparel product development (APDP). The
developed model can be used as a reference for companies in the sector to structure
the PDP. The use of the model will allow apparel professionals to systematize the
stages of the PDP, resulting in a reduction of the lead time. The model may also
become the basis for researchers working in the PDP, especially on research related
to the apparel manufacturing industry, and in fashion education institutions, design
and product engineering.

2. LITERATURE REVIEW

Product development is a business process that aims to transform data and

technical possibilities into market opportunities and information, enabling and
assisting the development of product design (CLARK; FUJIMOTO, 1991). Krishnan
and Ulrich (2001) defined product development as the transformation of a market
opportunity into a set of assumptions about the technology of the product for sale, in
addition to being the main source of product and process quality. The quality of the

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PDP management is closely linked to the standardization process (AMARAL;

ROZENFELD, 2007). A structured development process for new products is essential
for most businesses to reach their goals, to provide new products continually to attain
customer satisfaction (VALERI; ROZENFELD, 2004).

According to March-Chordà et al. (2002), one of the success factors in the

development of innovative products is the formalization and planning of the product
development process. However, many companies have difficulties in defining the
most appropriate strategies to achieve significant and sustained improvements. This
is due to the complexity of PDP technologies and procedures, which are often
incompatible with the degree of industry maturity (OLIVEIRA; KAMINSKI, 2012).

The product development process has a multidisciplinary character, is

technologically complex and occurs at the intersection of different fields (Revilla and
Rodríguez, 2011. To deal with this fact and increase their competitiveness, many
companies are actually reviewing their product development practices and
implementing approaches that will enable them to cope with increasing uncertainty
and ambiguousness (KOUFTEROS et al., 2002). Thus, a documented and
systematic process provides the use of the best design practices and a single and
standardized language for the entire company. From the moment that this process
becomes standard and can be utilized by several people, it is documented as a
model (AMARAL; ROZENFELD, 2007).

The formalization of the PDP management model allows an overview of all the
participants in the entire process (senior management staff of the
company’s functional areas and partners). Everyone involved in the
development becomes familiar with the expected results for the PDP, which activities
should be undertaken and how, which conditions must be met, the source of
information and the decision criteria to be adopted. As development projects are
defined from this model, it is known as a reference model (AMARAL; ROZENFELD,
2007).

The product development process can be defined as a set of phases (TROTT,

2008). First, the new market opportunities have to be identified; second, they must be
evaluated in terms of technical and economic feasibility; third, new product concepts
have to be developed; fourth, these must be converted into physical prototypes; and

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fifth, eventually, these prototypes must be converted into products that can be
marketed (GRUNERT et al., 2011). Amaral and Rozenfeld (2007) presented a set of
phases, executed in a reference model that describes the process of developing new
products in various sectors, and this is the basis on which companies can develop
this process in accordance with a common point of view. The model is divided into
macro phases, namely pre-development, development and post-development. Each
macro phase is subdivided into phases and activities.

From the literature concerning the development of apparel products, basic

steps in the process can be identified, such as research for the drafting of ideas,
conceptual lines and preparation for production and the market. Within each of the
four basic steps are countless design and development activities that are carried out
sequentially (KINCADE et al., 2007). Many authors, through their research, have
developed models for the PDP specifically for apparel (GASKILL, 1992; LAMB;
KALLAL, 1992; MAY-PLUMLEE; LITTLE, 1998; WICKETT et al., 1999; RECH, 2002;
MONTEMEZZO, 2003; PITIMANEEYAKUL et al., 2004).

3. METHODOLOGY

This research is based on extensive examination of the development process

of the apparel product. The research is predominantly qualitative and of an applied
nature. Regarding the technical procedure, bibliographic research was undertaken,
as in the first stage of this work, studies of reference models for the existing PDPs in
the literature were necessary to support the development of the proposed model
(GASKILL, 1992; LAMB; KALLAL, 1992; MAY-PLUMLEE; LITTLE, 1998; WICKETT
et al., 1999; RECH, 2002; MONTEMEZZO, 2003; PITIMANEEYAKUL et al., 2004;
ROZENFELD et al., 2006). This is a case study, since the study investigates a
phenomenon, the case of the PDP in the apparel manufacturing industry. Having
defined the method, data collection was carried out by means of field research. The
data collection for this research was conducted in interviews with companies,
professors and professionals in the area of apparel, following May-Plumlee and
Little’s (1998) research.

For the stratification of the sample of companies, the first criterion adopted
was that the companies would produce fashion products under their own brand and
that they would have an environment and a product development team in the

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company. For the respondents in the sample of professionals, it was decided that
only those who worked directly with the fashion APDP and who were directly involved
in the whole process could participate. As for the professors, the parameter for the
stratification was that the individual would have to be teaching or have already taught
lessons in the discipline of apparel product development on a fashion course or
fashion design course at the higher education level.

The script of the interviews was in the form of open questions, and it was
structured differently for businesses, professionals and professors. The preparation
of the script was undertaken after a bibliographic review of the subject. However, the
interviews had the same goal: to answer, regarding the product development
process, the questions of “what” the process is and “how” it is performed, both from
the companies’ and from the academics’ perspectives.

3.1. Results from the Field Research

Analysis of the companies interviewed

Eight companies with their own brands were interviewed, which performed the PDP
internally and manufactured fashion products, that is, they developed products
through seasonal collections and followed fashion trends. The characteristics of the
companies that were interviewed for topic exploration are presented in Table 1.

Table 1: Characteristics of the interviewed companies

Time No. of
No. of Professional
Companies in the collections Type of product
employees interviewed
market per year
Women’s, men’s and children’s
18
A 28 2 fashion: fitness, beach and Designer
years
swimming
14
B 60 3 Women’s fashion Designer
years
11 Women’s fashion: knitting and
C 70 3 Designer
years woven fabrics
20 Female and male fashion:
D 90 3 Designer
years jeans, knitwear and shirts
25
E 130 3 Children’s fashion Designer
years
Female and male fashion:
48
F 200 3 jeans, knitwear and woven Designer
years
fabrics
30 Women’s fashion: fitness and
G 320 2 Designer
years beach
15 Women’s, men’s and children’s
H 1600 4 Designer
years fashion: jeans, knitwear

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All of the companies’ respondents were designers. This fact highlights the
importance of these professionals for the apparel PDP, since in most companies
these professionals are the PDP managers in charge of the process as a whole in
addition to the creation of the pieces.

The companies interviewed work through collections (product lines). These

collections are usually named after seasons (for instance, summer, high summer,
winter, autumn/winter), but each company employs a different strategy regarding the
number of collections and the number of models developed by each collection. On
average, the companies interviewed develop three collections a year, ranging from
30 to 500 models each, depending on the company.

The PDP of each company was mapped to gain a better visualization and
understanding of the phases and activities. The sequences of activities that these
companies undertake in the PDP do not display large variations. In general, basically
the same phases are performed, differing in nomenclature, group activities and
especially the degree of depth in which each stage is conducted. The comparison
among the stages developed by each company can be seen in Figure 1.

Through this comparison, it was possible to identify the phases that are similar
in the product development process and the gates (verification activities) that are
utilized by the companies in the process. Similar gates are displayed in the same
color.

Similar activities are grouped taking into account nomenclature variations and
the breakdown of activities from the phases and gates, as shown in the row marked
“Stages”. The top-ten phases for PDP companies were identified: planning, research,
raw materials selection, development styles (drawing), modeling, pilot run,
development of the technical data sheet, marketing of the collection, production and
lauching. Through the modeling of the PDP, it was also possible to group the
activities and documents generated in the process of the industries in a generic way.
The gates used by the companies were related to the decision-making process for
the approval of the theme, the approval of raw materials, the approval of sketches
and the pilot run apparel approval.

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Comparison of the PDP stages in the companies and their nomenclatures

Pilot run Development of
Style Sketches Selection of Collection Showcase Launching/ Launching/
Company A Planning Research Development Approval
Modeling Apparel approval
visual Production
Raw material production communication representation retail
Production

Pilot run Pilot run

Raw material Catalog
Company B Research Definition
Development Style Approval Modeling Apparel Apparel
development
Production
Production Approval

Pilot run Pilot run

Company C Criação Modeling Apparel Apparel Production Launching
Production Approval

Pilot run Development of

Theme Raw material Raw material Sketches Pilot run Showcase
Company D Research Modeling Apparel Marketing the Technical Production
definition Definition Approval Creation Appoval Data Sheet production
Production

Pilot run Development of

Raw material Style Sketches Pilot run Apparel
Company E Planning Research selection Development approval
Modeling Production
Apparel the Technical Marketing Production Launching
Approval Data Sheet

Garment
Pilot run
Raw material Style Engineering Showcase
Company F Planning Research selection Development
Modeling Pilot run Apparel Production Marketing
(Technical Data Approval production
Sheet)

Pilot run
Theme Raw material Style Marketing of the
Company G Planning Research approval Development
Pilot run Apparel Production collection
Launching
selection Approval

Raw material Development of

Collection Showcase
Company H Planning Research selection and Development approval
the Technical Marketing Production Launching
Data Sheet production
purchasing

Raw Pilot run Development of Marketing

Theme Raw material Style Sketches
STAGES Planning Research approval selection
material
Development approval
Modeling Pilot run Apparel the Technical of the Production Launching
Approval Approval Data Sheet collection

Figure 1: Comparison of the phases of the companies’ PDP and their nomenclatures

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DOI: 10.14807/ijmp.v8i1.538

Analysis of the professionals who were interviewed

The questions in the script used for the interviews with the professionals
concerned the activities that make up the PDP, the organization of the process and
issues relating to the development and use of a reference model for the PDP in the
apparel industry. Interviews were conducted with four professionals who work directly
with the PDP in the apparel industry and follow fashion trends.

Through the interviews, it was possible to characterize the PDPs of the

apparel according to the design of each professional. The stages were mapped as
well as the stages of the companies. From the maps, it was possible to make a
comparison between the stages reported by each subject, as shown in Figure 2.

Eight main stages for the PDP were identified according to the professionals,
as shown in the “Stages” row: schedule definition, research, sketches drawing, raw
materials definition and selection, modeling, pilot run production, development of the
technical data sheet, production. In addition, two gates were identified in the process:
sketches approval and pilot run approval. Through a comparison, it was possible to
identify the phases and gates common to all professionals. Similar activities were
grouped taking into account the variation in the nomenclatures and the detachment
of the activities from the phases and gates.

Analysis of the professors’ interviews

In the interviews, the professors were surveyed about the phases that make
up the apparel PDP for the teaching process, about issues related to the availability
of materials in the PDP of the apparel industry and about the development and use of
a reference model for teaching the apparel PDP. Eight professors were interviewed,
who were teaching courses on apparel PDP in institutions of higher education. After
the general information was collected, the professors were questioned about the
phases that comprise the PDP in the apparel industry.

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Comparison of the PDP stages for the professionals and their classifications

Professional A Creation Sketches Modeling Pilot run Proofing Test Sewing Finishing Shipping

Collection Collection
Professional B Research Choose Fabric
development approval
Production

Schedule Style Sketches Raw material Pilot run Collection

Professional C Research development Approval
Modeling Approval
Technical Production
definition selection Production
Data sheet

Stamp and Registering of the

Raw material Collection Computerized
Professional D Research Sketches Modeling Approval
Embroidery technical data Production
selection Drawing Development sheet

Raw material Development of

Schedule Sketches Sketches Pilot run Pilot run
STAGES definition
Research drawing Approval
definition and Modeling
Production Approval
the technical Production
selection data sheet

Figure 2: Comparison of the PDP stages for the professionals and their classifications

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In the analysis of the phases reported by the professors, it was possible to

identify the early stages of the process, such as design, creation, market analysis,
target audience analysis, definition of the labor sector, preparation and organization
of the mind for creating and purpose of the collection. This characteristic of the
teaching process is due mainly to the fact that the professors themselves teach the
discipline on fashion and fashion design courses, in which professional training is
more oriented towards the early stages of the PDP.

4. PROPOSED APDP REFERENCE MODEL

This chapter presents the proposal of a reference model for the conducting of
the PDP in fashion apparel companies. The development of the proposed model was
divided into three stages and entailed unifying the knowledge obtained from the
literature and the interviews and the experience gained by the author of this study. In
Stage 1, a theoretical description was developed for the APDP. In Stage 2, a
comparison was made of the theoretical description and the results of the field
research with companies, professionals and professors. In Stage 3, both the
architecture and the proposed reference model for the APDP are presented.

4.1. STAGE 1: Theoretical representation of the APDP

The phases of the generic models for Rozenfeld’s (2006) PDP and of the
specific models developed by Gaskill (1992), Lamb and Kallal (1992), May-Plumlee
and Little (1998), Wickett et al. (1999), Rench (2002), Montemezzo (2003) and
Pitimanneyakul et al. (2004) all served as references for the development of the
theoretical model for the apparel PDP shown in Figure 3.

The model for the PDP of Rozenfeld et al. (2006) was the only generic model
selected to compose the structure of the theoretical model of apparel, because it is a
generic model with a high level of detail and breaks down the phases into activities.
Other specific models of apparel found in the national and international literature
were used. This is due to a lack of specific literature on the apparel PDP; as a result,
it was decided to utilize the greatest amount of information possible instead of
choosing only one model to serve as a basis for the theoretical model.

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Comparison of stages and classifications of generic PDP model and specific apparel model
Rozenfeld et Pre-development Development Post-development
al. PDP
Model
Strategic Project Informational Conceptual Detailed Production Product Monitoring of Product
(2006) Planning Planning Project Project Project Preparation Launching Product/Process Discontinuation

Lamb and Prototype

Evaluat
Problem identification Preliminary ideas Design refining develop
ion
Implementation -
Kallal (1992) ment

May-Plumlee Design
Concept Pre- Line Line
and Little Line research and planning
development
development and
production optimization marketing
-
(1998) style selection

Technical
Gaskill (1992), Evaluation and Concept
- Research Line concept
visualization
developm -
Wickett (1999) ent

Evaluati
Concept on and Prototype and final
Rench (2002) - generation
Screening Preliminary project
improve project
-
ment

Project
Montemezzo Conceptual Alternatives
- Planning specificatio
delimitation generation
Evaluation and creation Fulfillment -
(2003) ns

Pitimanneyakul,
Concept Design Level
Labat and - development (Concept)
Detailed project Tests and refining Production -
Delong (2004)

Figure 3: Comparison of stages and classifications of the generic PDP model and specific apparel models

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The development of Figure 3 enabled a comparison to be made between the

phases of the specific model and those of the generic model with the respective
classifications used by the authors. The arrangement of the phases of the specific
apparel models was based on the macro phases and stages of the model developed
by Rozenfeld et al. (2006). A general analysis of Figure 3 shows that most of the
specific phases of the apparel models, compared with the generic model of
Rozenfeld et al. (2006), are in the development macro phase and some phases of
the macro stage of pre-development.

Following an examination of Figure 3, a theoretical model was proposed that,

along with the research results, provided the basis for the development of the model
for the apparel PDP, which is grouped into three so-called macro phases: (i) pre-
development, (ii) development and (iii) post-development.

4.2. STEP 2: Comparison of field research analysis

The field research aimed to support the development of the reference model;
interviews were performed following three different approaches: apparel
manufacturing companies, professionals in the area and professors of higher
education who teach the discipline of apparel product development. The interviews
aimed to map the APDP in three different areas. Table 2 shows the phases for the
APDP included in each area of the field research. The phases/activities were
separated into three macro phases defined in the theoretical representation.

In Table 2, it is apparent that some phases are repeated in the three areas
studied; however, some phases are specific to a certain area.

Generally speaking, the phases described by the professors showed greater

variation in the stages of pre-development and post-development. Specific phases of
this area were identified as, for example, the phases/activities of scenario
outlining/target audience analysis and definition of the work sector in the macro
phase of pre-development and the phase/activity of post-use (disposal) in the post-
development macro phase.

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Table 2: Comparison of the APDP phases among the surveyed areas

Macro phases of Phases/activities – Field research
the theoretical
representation Company Professional Professor

Planning (collection
objectives)
Pre-development Planning Schedule definition Outline scenario/audience
target analysis
Definition of work sector

Research
Research
Design of models Research/design/market
Selection of raw materials
Definition of raw analysis
Development of models
material Idea/ideas’ generation
Modeling
Modeling Theme definition
Steering
Development Manufacturing of the Creation/design (project)
Technical
pilot apparel Modeling (project)
specifications’ development
Technical Development/steering
Marketing campaign
specifications’ (project)
Production
development Production
Launch
Production

Post-
- - Post-use (disposal)
development

The various stages described by the professors show the greater concern of
the academics with the phases/development planning activities and post-product
development. This fact confirms the lack of activities related to the planning of the
collections, that is, the activities that precede the development of the product itself,
and the lack of concern by the companies, in general, regarding the destination of
their product after sale or even the possibility of the environmental degradation that it
may cause.

The phases for the APDP that emerged from the field research were grouped,
excluding the stages that were repeated and separated, according to the phases of
the theoretical representation. It is possible to identify four phases/activities in the
outcomes of the interviews that could not be identified or associated with any
phase/activity of the theoretical representation:

(i) Outline scenario/target audience analysis

(ii) Definition of the work sector

(iii) Generation of ideas

(iv) Post-use (disposal)

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The other phases/activities resulting from the interviews coincided with

activities or phases of the theoretical representation. Another comparison that was
necessary for the construction of the reference model was related to the gates
defined in the theoretical representation and identified in the field research
interviews. One can identify two gates in the field of research that do not relate to
any gates in the theoretical representation:

(i) Selection of ideas

(ii) Approval of the raw material

Gate (i) is related to the selection of ideas collected in the trend research
phase. These selected ideas serve as inspiration for the collection definition, in the
creative process of the development of models and in the selection of raw materials.
Gate (ii) is related to the evaluation and selection of the raw materials to be used in
the collection. The phases/activities and the different gates identified in the
comparisons above will be incorporated into the theoretical representation for the
construction of the reference model.

4.3. STAGE 3: Reference model for the apparel PDP (APDP)

The reference model for the apparel product development process is shown in
two versions, a macro version and an extended version, with the details of each
phase of the APDP. Figure 4 is a macro view of the model, considering the macro
phases, phases and gates.

APPAREL PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT PROCESS (APDP)

Pre-development Development Pos-development

Product Monitor
Collection Market Trends product /
Portfolio Definition of Pre- Collection
planning Research Detailing process
Planning Concept production Launch

Figure 4. Macro view of the reference model proposed for the apparel PDP

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According to the structure of the theoretical model, the reference model shows
the macro phases of (i) pre-development, (ii) development and (iii) post-development
and the phases of (i) collection planning, (ii) portfolio product planning, (iii) market
research, (iv) concept definition, (v) details, (vi) pre-production, (vii) product launch
and (viii) monitoring the product/process. In Figure 4, the definition of activities,
detailing, pre-production and launching of the product are represented as
overlapping figures, since they must occur individually for each product of the
collection. However, some activities in the phases were modified and/or added after
comparing the theoretical representation with the PDP modeling collected in the field
research. Tables 3, 4 and 5 display the summary of each macro phase of the APDP
reference model.

Table 3: Summary of the pre-development phase of the reference model for the
APDP
Macro phase Phase Phase goal Activity
Team definition
Define the activities and sequence
Prepare the schedule
Develop performance indicators
Identify the Analyze the sales data of past collections
parties involved
Scenario and target audience analysis
in the collection
Collection Define the work sector
and assess the
planning Set the production strategies, marketing and
needs and
controls for the sales
Pre- process Analyze the economic feasibility of the
development collection
Gate 1 – Evaluate the strategies for the
collection
Prepare the project plan
Set the size grid
Set the grid Set the types of apparel to be developed
Planning the
apparel that will Specify the quantity of apparel to be developed
collection
be developed in by model and size
portfolio
the collection Gate 2 – Assess the final grid
Document the decisions taken

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Table 4: Summary of the pre-development phase of the reference model for the
APDP
Goal of the
Macro phase Phase Activity
phase
Research the model trends
Research the trends for fabrics and trims
Research the Research the color trends
needs of Generate ideas for the collection
Research the
consumers and Gate 3.1 – Select ideas
market trends
the fashion Set the style specifications for the collection
market trends Set the collection theme
Gate 3.2 – Theme assessment
Document the decisions taken
Create sketches of models (style design)
Select the raw material for the collection
Gate 4.1 – Filter the raw material
Develop
Associate the trends of materials/colors with
Definition of alternatives for
the models
the concept collection
apparel Monitor the economic feasibility of each
product
Gate 4.2 – Filter models
Document the decisions taken
Submit the raw material to quality testing
Detail the architecture of the apparel (technical
drawing)
Develop the modeling apparel
Produce pilot apparel of each piece in the
collection
Submit the apparel to trim, usability and
Detail product
Development ergonomic testing
specifications
Detailing Develop the operational sequence of each
and develop
piece
pilot parts
Develop the technical record of approved parts
Develop the packaging for the collection
Monitor the economic feasibility of each
product
Gate 5 – Assessment of the pilot apparel
Modeling the measurement of the approved
apparel
Acquisition of raw material
Develop and Production of showcase for sales
detail the representatives
manufacturing Establish the initial price of the apparel
Pre-production processes to Obtain manufacturing financial resources
meet the Develop/optimize the manufacturing processes
collection’s Promote training
demands Free production
Document the decisions taken
Launching Marketing and launch planning
products in the Develop sales processes
market involves Gate 6 – Evaluate the collection marketing
Collection planning of sales Promote the launch marketing
launch and distribution Launch the collection
processes and Manage the release
marketing
campaigns Document the decisions taken

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Table 5: Summary of the post-development phase of the reference model for the
APDP
Phase
Macro phase Phase Activity
objective
Monitor, Evaluation of customer satisfaction
document and Monitor product performance (technical,
Post- Monitor
treat post- economic, production and services)
development product/process
release Encouragement of and assistance with
information disposal practices of the products (post-use)

The phases are explained separately in a detailed version. This was created
from the theoretical representation model, the field research and an array of activities
versus responsibility prepared by the authors.

The areas involved in the apparel industry PDP are: (i) top management, (ii)
product development (PD), (iii) management of PD, (iv) commercial, (v) marketing,
(vi) purchasing, (vii) production, (viii) quality and (ix) engineering. To achieve a good
performance of the process and use of the reference model for APDP, the utilization
of cross-functional teams is necessary. According to Rozenfeld et al. (2006), the
development productivity or the quality of the products developed and the speed of
the response to consumer demands depend directly on the use of cross-functional
development teams with strong leadership and strong active participation of experts
from various functional areas.

Pre-development: Collection planning

The first phase of pre-development planning is dedicated to the collection,

ensuring the connection between the PDP and the company’s strategic planning.
During this stage, the parties involved in the collection are identified and the needs
and control indicators for the process are identified. At this stage, the individuals in
charge of the process are members of senior management, commercial, product
development (PD) and engineering. Some activities include advising the marketing
and the management of PD. The starting point of this phase is associated with three
sources of data inputs: strategic planning, staff list and fitness data and past
collections. The graphic representation of this phase containing the activity flow is
shown in Figure 5.

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Pre-development:
Collection Planning

Senior Commercial PD Engineering

• Company's Management
strategic planning Define
• Personnel list and Define team
Activities and Sequence
skills
• Data from past
collections Prepare
schedule

Define
Performance
Sales data Indicators
analysis from
past collections
Scenario
Analysis and
target audience

Set production Collection Plan:

strategies, Set Work
marketing and Thread • Collection's working team
sales • List of activities
Analyze • Collection schedule
Collection • Performance indicators
EconomicFe • Work thread and target
asibility audience
• Definition of production
Evaluate volume and sales
not Strategies for Document • Definition of sales outlets
collection yes the decisions • Collection budget estimate
taken

Figure 5: Collection planning phase

At this stage, the scenario and the target audience are analyzed for the
definition of the work sector. These activities are developed to identify new market
opportunities or companies that want to change their focus of work, companies that
are developing a new brand or product line or companies that are entering the
market.

The activity of preparing the schedule is instrumental in guiding the

collection’s work team during the APDP, and it is the responsibility of the company’s
engineering department. The definition of production strategies, marketing and sales
made by the senior management aims to guide the decision making throughout the
development of the collection.

At the end of this stage, the top management evaluates the decisions taken
during the phase, and then this information is documented in the COLLECTION

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PLAN, which contains the following information: collection working team; to-do list;
collection schedule; performance indicators; work sector and target audience;
definition of the production and sales volume; definition of sales outlets; and
collection budget estimate.

Pre-development: Planning of the collection portfolio

The collection portfolio planning phase is in charge of defining the grid pieces
that will be developed in the collection. This planning is important as it provides a
direction for the creation of the apparel collection as well as making the planning of
the sales of the collection possible.

The COLLECTION PLAN information provides support for the definition of the
size grid, the type of apparel that will be developed and the quantity of collection
products by type and size. These activities are developed jointly by the DP and the
commercial team, then this information is evaluated by the senior management and
documented by the commercial team, which updates the COLLECTION PLAN with
the information generated during the phase. The graphic representation of that
phase with the activity flow is shown in Figure 6.

Pre-development :
Collection Portfolio Planning

Collection Plan:
PD Commercial
Collection
Plan • Product Portfolio
Define size grid • Grid Size
• Types and of
products that will
compose the
Define types of apparel to be collection
developed

Define quantity of apparel by Senior

size and model to be Management
developed
not

Evaluate
final grid

yes
Document
decisions
taken

Figure 6: Planning phase of the product portfolio

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Development: Research the market trends

In this stage of researching the market trends, the consumer needs and
market trends for fashion apparel are investigated. The trends in models, fabrics and
trims, and colors for the collection are researched, then the management of DP
evaluates this information. With this research, the DP defines the style specifications
and sets the theme for the collection that will later be evaluated by the senior
management.

Regarding the output, the style information and theme for the collection are
documented in the TRENDS PLAN. In addition to the DP, the DP management and
the senior management as well as the commercial and marketing teams provide
support for these activities. The graphic representation of that phase with the flow of
activities is shown in Figure 7.

Development :
Market Trends Research

PD
Research for Models
Collection Trends
Plan Updated

Research trends fabrics Trend Plan:

and trims
• Defining Collection
theme
• Style Specifications
Research color trends

Generate ideas for the

collection

Selection of
ideas

Define style specifications Senior

for the collection Management
not

Evaluate
Define collection's theme
Theme

yes
Document decisions taken

Figure 7: Phase for the research of market trends

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Development: Definition of the concept

The objective of the concept definition phase is to develop the collection’s

apparel alternatives. The graphic representation of this phase with its flow of
activities is shown in Figure 8. It is in this phase that the designers have the freedom
to create the outline of the apparel for the collection, through manual or
computerized drawings. The designer needs extra time to create the number of
apparel items, more than is planned in the collection plan, so that, after assessing
the collection, it does not become depleted.

Development:
Concept Definition

Concept Plan:
PD
• Manual and/or
Trends Plan computerized styled
Create sketches of
drawings of the products
models (style
• Raw material to be used by
drawings) product created
• List of suppliers
• Development of a style data
sheet
Select raw material • Estimated price of each
for the collection Senior product collection
Management

not
Filter raw
material
Engineering
yes
Associate trends of
materials and
colors to models
Monitor the
economic
feasibility of
each product

not
Filter models
yes
Document
decisions taken

Figure 8: Concept definition phase

After the creation of sketches, the DP selects the fabrics and trims that make
up the collection. This selection is evaluated by the top management, and the raw
material to be used is defined. The raw material is linked to the sketches, which then

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undergo a preliminary study on the economic feasibility of the piece. With the
drawings and the initial economic feasibility information, they are evaluated by the
senior management.

In this phase, information is generated about: manual style drawings and/or

computerized products, the raw material to be used by the products created, a list of
suppliers, the development of a style data sheet and a price quotation for each of the
collection’s products. The information is documented in the CONCEPT PLAN. In
addition to the DP, senior management and engineering, this phase counts on the
help of commercial and PD management.

Development: Detailing

The detailing phase aims to identify the specifications of the apparel designed
in the concept definition stage and to develop pilot apparel. The graphic
representation of that phase along with its activity flow is shown in Figure 9.

Development:
Detailing

Quality PD Engineering Pilot-run apparel

department
Detail the Technical data sheet of
Perform quality architecture of each apparel:
tests on the the apparel - Detailing of the products
raw material (technical - Product architecture
drawing) - Technical drawing in scale
Develop modeling - Specifications of the raw
apparel material and of production

• Packaging Specifications
Produce a pilot-run
Concept Plan • Price update of the product
apparelfor each apparel
in the collection
Book of molds

Perform trim,
usability and
ergonomic test in the
pilot-run garments

Develop operational
Develop the
sequence for each
technical data
apparel
sheet of the
approved
apparel Senior
Develop packaging Management
for collection
Monitor the
economic
not
feasibility of each
product
Evaluate
pilot-run
Graduating modeling yes
apparel
of approved apparel

Figure 9: Detailing phase

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In this stage, the company’s quality department performs the raw material
assessment to ensure final product quality and generate information that will support
the construction of the mold of the apparel. The engineering department develops
the architecture of the pieces through the style drawings developed in the previous
phase; the development of technical drawings and detailing of the apparel are critical
to the construction phase of the pilot apparel and aim to avoid misinterpretations in
subsequent stages.

The DP department develops the pilot apparel, performs fit testing, usability
and ergonomics, develops the operational sequence of each piece and develops the
sizing of the approved apparel. The engineering department develops the technical
file for each apparel item and monitors the economic feasibility of the apparel.
Subsequently, the senior management evaluates and approves the pilot apparel,
considering the margin of the pieces that were planned in the pre-development
phase.

In this stage, the outcome of the work is the technical specifications, packing
specifications, product price update and mold block. The technical specification data
sheet provides a breakdown of the products containing the piece of architecture, the
operational sequence with the stages of the manufacturing process, the technical
design in scale and the specifications of the raw material and production.

Development: Pre-production

The pre-production phase aims to develop and refine the manufacturing

processes to meet the collection needs. At this stage, the raw materials are also
purchased for the collection and the showcases for sales representatives are
produced. The graphic representation of that phase along with its activity flow is
displayed in Figure 10.

The acquisition of the raw material is the purchasing department’s

responsibility. The showcases for sales representatives are produced, in the case
that the company works with this type of sale, and this activity is the responsibility of
the engineering and commercial departments. The engineering department
establishes, in a definite way, the price for the apparel. Furthermore, it calculates,
along with the production department, the resources necessary to produce the

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collection. The engineering department is responsible for the development and

optimization of the manufacturing processes.

Development:
Pre-Production
Sales Showcase

Purchasing • Define costs

Commercial Engineering
department • Prices and profit of
garments
Raw • Installed production
material Commercial resources
acquisition Production of showcase for • Trained manpower
sales representatives • Manufactured product or
into production

Establish
initial price for
each apparel
Production
Obtain manufacturing
resources

Develop/
optimize
manufacturing
processes

Ficha técnica
Peças Piloto Promote training

Document
Release production the decisions
taken

Figure 10: Pre-production phase

To provide support for new sales and production processes, training is
promoted by the engineering department for production and by the commercial
department for sales. Following the training, the production of the apparel is released
by the engineering department, which makes its judgment based on the previous
sales or the estimates produced together with the commercial department. In
addition to the purchasing, commercial, engineering and production departments, the
pre-production phase is advised by the DP and DP management. After this phase,
the following are achieved: the showcase for sales representation, definition of costs,
prices and profits of the apparel, installed production resources, trained labor force,
manufactured products or production in progress.

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Development: Launching of the collection

The collection launch phase aims to insert the product into the market. This
phase involves the planning of the sales and distribution processes and of the
marketing campaign. In this stage, the marketing department’s task is to plan the
marketing campaign of the collection, launch the collection and promote and manage
the launch. Both the commercial and the marketing department are in charge of the
launching of the collection. The senior management evaluates the marketing
planning for the collection.

The outcome of this phase is the launch plan along with the sales promotional
material (catalogs, outdoors, lookbooks, banners, etc.), the sales processes and the
directions for launching the collection in the wholesale and retail markets. The
graphic representation of this phase along with its activity flow is shown in Figure 11.

Development:
Collection Launching

Senior Marketing Commercial

Collection Plan Management
Plan
Trends Plan marketing and
launching
not
Develop
sales
Evaluate the processes
marketing of
the collection
Promote
yes
marketing of
launching

Collection launching

Launching Plan:
Manage
launching • Material for disclosure
and sales (catalogues,
outdoors, lookbooks,
Document banners, etc)
the decisions • Sales processes
taken • Launch of the
collection in the
wholesale and retail

Figure 11: Collection launch phase

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Post-development: Monitoring of the product/process

The objective of the stage of monitoring the product/process is to monitor,

document and handle post-release information and encourage and assist with the
adoption of appropriate practices for the disposal of products. The graphic
representation of this phase along with its activity flow is shown in Figure 12.

Pos-development: Collection Performance

Report:
Monitor product/process - Registration and
evaluation of learned
lessons
- Customer
Commercial Marketing SatisfactionEvaluation
Collection PD
• Product replacement
Plan
• Encouragement and
Customer satisfaction partnership services for
Encourage conscious practices for
and assist evaluation
disposal or recycling of
product products
disposal
practices (after Monitor product
use) performance (technical,
economic, production and
services)

Figure 12: Product/ process monitoring phase

The outputs at this stage are the collection performance report, registration
and evaluation of the lessons learned, customer satisfaction evaluation, product
replacement and, if needed, encouragement and partnership services for conscious
practices for the disposal or recycling of products. Those involved in this stage are
the DP and sales and marketing departments, with the assistance of DP engineering
and management.

Gates

Eight gates were established (stage reviews) for the APDP reference model.
The decision making throughout the APDP course aims to filter ideas or products
that should move forward in the process. According to Rozenfeld et al. (2006), “…
the introduction of systematic formalized Gates is a practice that brings great
benefits to the company’s performance.”

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The following describes each one of the gates of the process:

• Evaluation of the strategies for the collection – To evaluate the strategies that
will guide the decisions regarding production, marketing and sales throughout the
development of the collection. The senior management, supported by the areas
of PD management, sales and marketing, gives its approval.

• Evaluation of the final grid – To evaluate the collection products’ grid, defining
which products will be developed and their quantities. This evaluation is
approved by the senior management, supported by the PD management.

• Selection of ideas – Selection of the ideas collected and developed during the
research on trends, raw materials and colors for the collection. These ideas form
the basis of the development of the theme of the collection and are approved by
the PD management, supported by PD, sales and marketing.

• Evaluate the theme – To evaluate the theme of the collection, defined by the
trends research. This is approved by the senior management, supported by
sales.

• Filter the raw material – To refine the raw material selected for the collection.
This is approved by the senior management, supported by the PD management.

• Filter the models – To refine the models created that are still in drawings,
excluding or redoing some drawings. Approval is given by the senior
management, supported by the PD management, sales and marketing.

• Evaluate the pilot apparel – To evaluate the models in physical form, known as
pilot apparel. In this stage, the apparel can be discarded or undergo changes in
the modeling, raw materials or production process. This process is approved by
the senior management, supported by the PD management and assistants.

• Evaluate the collection’s marketing campaign – To assess the marketing

campaign designed for the collection. In this stage, the senior management,
supported by the PD, PD management, sales and marketing areas, evaluates
whether the marketing campaign developed faithfully represents the proposed
theme for the collection and then continues with the launching of the collection.

The execution of the gates is a joint activity and occurs through meetings. The
designated time for carrying out such meetings is an investment that the company

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performs during the development of the collection. Such meetings should be planned
to avoid dispersion resulting from the contribution of various individuals involved in
the process (Rozenfeld et al., 2006). Whereas most apparel companies are small,
meetings regarding gates can be held by a small group, considering that the fact that
some people may assume different roles in the PDP.

5. FINAL CONSIDERATIONS

The structure of the reference model proposed for the fashion apparel has macro
phases, phases, activities and inputs and outputs at each stage. The possibility of
the greater detail presented in this reference model justifies the relevance of this
work to the academic and business world.

Field research revealed that the main difficulties of APDP, acknowledged by

businesses and professionals, were related to the lack of organization of the
activities performed during the process, the difficulties in the relationships between
departments, the lack of time for a research stage for trends and the definition. All
these problems mentioned by the respondents can be resolved with better planning
and structuring of the PDP. For the professors interviewed, the greatest difficulties
were related to the lack of material available on the APDP, at all stages. The
development of the reference model comes from encountering the difficulties
reported in interviews and many other APDPs faced in the course of the day-to-day
work, be it in business or academia, contributing to the design process and the lack
of research in the area.

The reference model for the APDP was developed considering the particularities
of the development of fashion apparel products, such as the development of
products in seasonal lines (collections) instead of individual products, the
development of several collections each year and therefore a short period of time for
the development process of each collection. Once the structure of the model was
presented in a simple way, the necessary dynamism for the APDP was not
compromised by the great amount of activities and bureaucracy in the process.

It was also considered that the APDP characteristics are important and that the
proposed model was not developed with the goal of being a single standard for the
process, but as a combination of good practices that can be used in its entirety to
structure the APDP with flexibility or used partially by means of adaption, adjusting to

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the reality in which it is employed. In this case, the reference model is now called the
adapted model.

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