Electronics Construction Manual

MitchElectronics 2019
Version 3—04/02/2019

www.mitchelectronics.co.uk
 CONTENTS

Introduction … 3
How To Solder … 4
Resistors … 5
Capacitors … 6
Diodes and LEDs … 7
Switches … 8
Transistors … 9
Regulators … 10
Integrated Circuits … 11
Potentiometers … 12
Buzzers ...13
Microphones … 14
Wires … 15

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 Introduction
Building electronic circuits is not only a fun activity but good for improving dexterity. But
the art in building circuits is not just in knowing what part you need to solder but where
it goes and what order to put parts in!

The transistor flasher kit is good for solder practice!

Depending on the kit that you have, you will need to read the relevant chapters in this
book so that you know how to put each component in. For example, the 555 astable kit
does not have any transistors and so the transistor chapter does not need to be
understood. Before continuing make sure you have the following equipment
 Soldering iron, soldering iron stand, wet sponge, and lead-free solder
 Small pliars, screwdrivers, tweezers, and wire cutters
So you have your kit, checked that all the parts are included, and understand which
chapters you need to keep an eye on it’s time to move onto the next section… how to
solder!

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 How To Solder

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 Resistors
The first component that you should solder are resistors as they are some of the smallest
components. Resistors are identified with the letter R followed by a number where each
resistor has a unique number. The number of the resistor in the schematic is the same as
that on the PCB so R1 in the schematic fits into the R1 component on the PCB.
The example below shows R1 in a schematic which has a value of 1KΩ which means on
the PCB for that kit, a 1KΩ resistor needs to be inserted into the R1 space shown below.

First, push the resistor all the way into the slot so that the resistor is flush with the PCB
and the legs are all the way through. Then flip the PCB over, solder each leg of the
resistor, and then cut the legs just above the solder joint.

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 Capacitors
Capacitors come in different varieties with the two main categories being ceramic and
electrolyte. Ceramic capacitors are easy to solder but electrolytic capacitors need a bit of
care as they are polarized and only fit in a specific orientation.

Ceramic Capacitors
Capacitors are identified with the letter C in both the schematic and the PCB and each
capacitor has a unique number. For example, if capacitors C1 in the schematic is a 100nF
capacitor then a 100nF capacitor needs to be soldered to the C1 component space on
the PCB. To solder a ceramic capacitor, place the ceramic capacitor into the capacitor slot

and push down until the capacitor is a few mm from the PCB (do not push in all the way).
Then solder the legs on the underside of the PCB and trim off the excess legs.

Electrolytic Capacitors
Electrolytic capacitors are also identified with the letter C but they must be inserted in a
specific way as they are polarized (have a + and - leg). The positive leg of the capacitor is
longer than the negative leg and if the legs are the same length then the negative leg can
be identified by looking for the leg next to the negative stirp on the side of the capacitor.

Can you see the negative strip on the side?

Negative pin

Positive pin
Electrolytic capacitors look The square pad is the
like this on schematics positive pin!

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 Diodes and LEDs
Diodes and LEDs are both polarized components and therefore MUST be inserted in the
correct way otherwise they will not work! Both components are identified with the
symbol D but on rare occasions LEDs may also have the identification of “LED”. As with all
other components, each diode and LED has a unique number that links the schematic
and PCB component position together.

Diodes
Diodes have a band on the outside of the component and this band sits close to one of
the legs. The leg that is closest to the band is the cathode ( the negative pin), while the
leg furthest away is the anode (positive pin). The schematic symbol for a diode shows an
arrow with a line where the line represents the cathode and the PCB symbol is similar to
the diode itself.
Positive pin Can you see the negative strip on the side?

Positive pin Negative pin

Negative pin

LEDs
LEDs are identified with the diode symbol that has arrows pointing away while the PCB
symbol is not entirely obvious. The square pad on the PCB is the cathode while the
round pad is the anode. The longer lead of an LED is the anode while the shorter lead is
the cathode and it is important that these leads are not cut until the LED is soldered in
place!
Positive pin Negative pin
Positive pin

Positive pin

Negative pin

Negative pin

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 Switches
Switches are easy components to solder and are identified with the letter S but may also
be called SW followed by a unique number. Tactile switches have dents in their legs
which create a “click” sound when the switch is fully inserted into the PCB (this is how
you will know that the component is sitting flush with the PCB).

While tactile switches are useful for momentary action (such as a push to roll on a dice)
other switches are useful for turning off or on power. These types of switches are
identified with a different symbol (shown below) and have component identifications SW
and S.

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 Transistors
Transistors are one of the harder parts to solder due to their sensitivity to heat, their
three pins, and that they have a specific orientation which means you need to make sure
that they are placed in the correct way.
Transistors are identified with the letter Q followed by unique number and the
identification in the schematic is identical to that found on the PCB. Transistors come in
many different shapes and sizes but unless stated otherwise all transistors used in
MitchElectronics kits are in the TO-92 package.
Curved edge must match

Pin 3
Pin 2
Pin 1
Pin 1 Pin 1

When soldering transistors it is important to place a crocodile clip across the legs as this
will help to keep heat away from the transistor. If you can solder quickly (less than 5
seconds per pad), then you do not need to use a heatsink but if you are not confident
with an iron then a heatsink could go along way.

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 Regulators
Regulators come in all shapes and sizes but the main three ones used in MitchElectronics
kits are the TO-220 package, the TO-92 package, and the SO-223 surface mount package.
Regulators are ICs and therefore have the identification of either U or IC followed by a
unique number.

Pin 1

Pin 1

Soldering TO-92 regulators should be done in the same way as transistors but soldering
TO-220 parts is easier. One of the reasons for this is because TO-220 packages are
designed to handle heat dissipation so soldering their legs should not cause heat issues.
Place the part into the correct holes and then bend the part so that it sits flush with the
PCB. A small bolt can be used to keep the part from raising but this is not too important
for MitchElectronics kits.

Some regulators are of the surface mount kind (mainly the AMS1117 3.3V regulator)
which are soldered directly to the top side of the PCB. Soldering these can be tricky and
require some care so the first step is to apply some solder to the large tab first and with
a pair of tweezers hold the regulator over the pads and then heat the tab up. Once the
part is secure with the tab soldered proceed to soldering the three other small legs.

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 Integrated Circuits
Integrated circuits are easy to solder when using IC sockets. IC sockets are parts that look
like ICs but are just a pair of connector rows that allow ICs to be inserted into after
soldering. The reason why they are used instead of soldering ICs directly to the PCB is
because ICs are very sensitive to static electricity and heat so it is best to put ICs into
sockets. ICs on schematics and PCBs are identified with the letter U or IC followed by a
unique number.
When soldering the IC socket to the PCB make sure that it is fully inserted and that it is
facing the correct orientation. The socket has a small circular notch at the front and this
should line up with the notch on the PCB. With the IC socket fully inserted flip the PCB
and solder the top left pin and the bottom right pin. Then look at the socket to see if the
socket has been soldered in correctly. If it has then solder the rest of the legs otherwise
re-solder the two pins and adjust the socket as needed.
Notch should line up

Once the circuit has been COMPLETELY built the ICs can then be inserted into their
respective sockets. Make sure that the notch in the IC matches the notch in the socket
which matches the notch on the PCB.

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 Potentiometers
Potentiometers are some of the harder parts to solder as they are usually big and bulky.
Potentiometers are identified wit the word RV followed by a unique number that is the
same on the schematic and the PCB. When inserting a potentiometer the orientation
matters not because the part wont work but because they have adjustment knobs which
may be hard to turn if they are facing a different direction.

Soldering a potentiometer can be a slight challenge but the best approach is to leave the
components till last, insert them, flip the PCB, and then keep the board resting on the
potentiometer as you solder it. If you still struggle to solder it in then insert the
potentiometer and the solder the top side instead!

Some potentiometers are much smaller for space and weight saving. These are
sometimes referred to trim potentiometers and are found on many MitchElectronics
kits. They are easy to identify and insert as they can only be placed in one orientation.

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 Buzzers
Buzzers are typically identified with the identification of BZ followed by a number
however, most circuits only have one buzzer and so only BZ1 will be found. Buzzers are
large components that should be one of the last components soldered and are easily
identifiable with a large circle and two pad. Buzzers are polarised parts which mean they
MUST be inserted the correct way (like electrolytic capacitors and LEDs). The positive
lead on a buzzer can be identified in two different ways. The first, and most easiest, is to
identify the longest lead as this will be the positive lead. The second method involves
looking for a small plus mark on the top of the buzzer and this mark is directly above the
positive lead.
Positive pin

Plus mark
Positive pin

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 Microphones
To be added soon...

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 Speakers
To be added soon...

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 Wires
Wires are used to connect the circuit to either power, input signals, or output signals.
Wires do not have a specific identification but are often connected to ports which are
typically identified as either P or J followed by a unique number. The colour of wires does
not make a difference to the functionality of the circuit but they can help identify what
they do.

Wires that are used to power the circuit should be red and black where red wires should
connect to VDD and VCC while black wires should connect to GND, VSS, and 0V.

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