Make This Electric Scooter/Rickshaw Circuit
Make This Electric Scooter/Rickshaw Circuit
Atumobile
Contents
1. The Circuit Request
2. The Design
2.1. Why BLDC Motor
2.2. Why Li-Ion Battery
2.3. Using a BLDC Driver Circuit
2.4. Circuit Diagram
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I can image it will be push-pull type, but have no idea of types of mosfets (give the wattage 80-100A),
driving them, then the transformer, the core type and then diodes.
Plus the minimum voltage cut off to cap the PWM's duty cycle.
I have found some more information. The motor is 3 phase brushless with hall sensors.
There are two ways to approach it, a/ leave the existing controller in place and only do 12V to 60V
step up or b/ replace the controller too.
Steve
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The Design
Today making an electric vehicle is much easier than it used to be earlier, and this has become
possible due to two main elements in the design, namely the BLDC motors and the Li-ion or the Li-
polymer batteries.
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in.godaddy.com
These two ultra efficient members have fundamentally allowed the concept of electric vehicles to
become a reality and practically feasible.
In BLDC motors the rotor rotates solely through magnetic force making the system extremely
efficient, contrary to the earlier brushed motors which had its rotors attached with the supply source
through brushes, causing a lot of friction, sparking and wear and tear in the system.
Earlier we had only lead acid batteries at our disposal for all the DC back up systems which posed two
major drawbacks: These counterparts needed much time to charge, possessed restricted rate of
discharge, lower life, and were bulky and heavy, all these only adding to their inefficient nature of
working.
Opposing to this, Li-ion, or Li-po batts are lighter, compact, quickly chargeable at high current rates
and are dischargeable at any desired high current rate, these have higher run life, are SMF types, all
these features making them the right candidate for applications such as electric scooters, electric
rickshaws, quadcopter drones (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/simplest-quadcopter-drone-
circuit/) etc.
Although BLDC motors are extremely efficient, these require specialized ICs for driving their stator
coils, today we have many manufacturers producing these exclusive next-generation IC modules
which not only do the basic function of operating these motors, but are also specified with many
advanced additional features such as: PWM open loop control sensor assisted closed loop control
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advanced additional features, such as: PWM open loop control, sensor assisted closed loop control,
multiple foolproof safeguards, motor reverse/forward control, braking control and a multitude of
other state-of-the-art in-built features.
Let's learn how this module may be effectively implemented for making an electric scooter or an
electric rickshaw, right in your home.
I won't be discussing the mechanical details of the vehicle, rather only the electrical circuit and the
wiring details of the system.
in.godaddy.com
Circuit Diagram
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Parts List
All resistors including Rt but excluding Rs and R = 4k7, 1/4 watt
Ct = 10nF
R = 1K
C = 0.1uF
The above figure shows a full-fledged high wattage brushless 3-phase DC motor driver IC MC33035
which becomes perfectly suitable for the proposed electric scooter or electric rickshaw application.
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The device has all the basic features that may be expected to be in these vehicles, and if required the
IC could be enhanced with additional advanced features through many alternative possible
configurations.
Sh
online.
in.godaddy.com
The advanced features become specifically possible when the chip is configured in a closed loop
mode, however the discussed application is an open loop configuration which is a more preferred
configuration since it's much straightforward to configure, and yet is able to fulfill all of the required
features that may be expected in a electric vehicle.
The yellow shaded portion is the motor, which includes a 3-phase stator indicated by the three coils
in the "Delta" configuration, the circular rotor indicated with the N/S poled magnets and three Hall
effect sensors on the top.
The signals from the three Hall effect sensors are fed to the pin nos 4, 5, 6 of the IC for internal
processing and generating the corresponding output switching sequence across the connected output
power devices.
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Since the IC is configured in an open loop mode, it's supposed to be activated and controlled using
external PWM signals, whose duty cycle is supposed to determine the speed of the motor.
However this smart IC does not require an external circuit for generating the PWMs, rather it's
handled by an in-built oscillator and a couple of error amp circuitry.
The Rt, and Ct components are appropriately selected for generating the frequency (20 to 30 kHz) for
the PWMs, which is fed to pin#10 of the IC for further processing.
The above is done through a 5V supply voltage generated by the IC itself at pin#8, this supply is
simultaneous used for feeding the Hall effect devices, it seems everything is precisely done
here....nothing is wasted.
Work in Chrome D
The portion shaded in red forms the speed control section of the configuration, as can be seen it's
simply made using a single ordinary potentiometer....pushing it upwards increases the speed and vice
versa. This is in turn made possible through the correspondingly varying PWM duty cycles across the
pin#10, 11, 12, 13.
The potentiometer could be converted into an LDR/LED assembly circuit, for achieving a friction-less
pedal speed control (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2014/12/pedal-speed-controller-circuit-
for.html) in the vehicle.
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Pin#3 is for determining the forward, reverse direction of the motor rotation, or rather the scooter or
the rickshaw direction. It implies that now your electric scooter or your electric rickshaw will have the
facility of reversing back....just imagine a two-wheeler with a reverse facility, .....interesting?
Pin#3 can be seen with a switch, closing this switch renders the pin#3 to ground enabling a "forward"
motion to the motor, while opening it causes the motor to spin in the opposite direction (pin3 has an
internal pull up resistor, so opening the switch does not cause anything detrimental to the IC).
Identically, pin#22 switch selects the phase-shift signal response of the connected motor, this switch
needs to be appropriately switched ON or OFF with reference to the motor specs, if a 60 degree
phased motor is used then the switch needs to stay closed, and open for a 120 degree phased motor.
Pin#16 is the ground pin of the IC and needs to be connected with the battery negative line and/or
the common ground line associated with the system.
Pin#17 is the Vcc, or the positive input pin, this pin needs to be connected to a supply voltage
between 10V and 30V, 10V being the minimum value and 30V the maximum breakdown limit for the
IC.
Pin#17 may be integrated with the "Vm" or the motor supply line if the motor supply specs matches
the IC Vcc specs, otherwise pin17 could be supplied from a separate step down regulator stage.
Pin#7 is the "enable" pinout of the IC, this pin can be seen terminated to ground via a switch, for so
long as it is switched ON and the pin#7 remains grounded, the motor is allowed to stay activated,
when switched OFF, the motor is disabled resulting the motor to coast until finally it comes to a halt.
The coasting mode may quickly come to a halt if the motor or the vehicle is under some load.
Pin#23 is assigned with the "braking" ability, and causes the motor to stop and halt almost instantly
when the associated switch is opened. The motor is allowed to run normally as long as this switch is
kept closed and the pin#7 is held grounded.
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I would recommended to Gang-up the switch at pin#7 (enable) and pin#23 (brake) together so that
these are switched with a dual action and together, this would probably help to "kill" the motor
rotation effectively and collectively and also enable the motor to run with a combined signal from the
two pnouts.
"Rs" forms the sense resistor responsible for checking the overload or over current conditions for the
motor, under such situations. the "fault" condition is instantly triggered switching off the motor
immediately and the IC going into a lock-out mode internally. The condition stays in this mode until
the fault is corrected and normalcy is restored.
This concludes the detailed explanation regarding the various pinouts of the proposed electric
scooter/rickshaw control module pinouts. It just needs to be correctly implemented as per the shown
connection info in the diagram for successfully and safely implementing the vehicle operations.
Additionally, the IC MC33035 also includes a couple of in-built protection features such as under-
volatge lockout which ensures that the vehicle is switched off if in case the IC is inhibited from the
required minimum supply voltage, and also a thermal overload protection ensuring that the IC never
works with over temperatures.
However, adding a boost converter could unnecessarily make the circuit more complex and might add
to a possible inefficiency. The better idea is to use 5nos of 12V batteries in series. For sufficient back
up time and current for the 1000 watt motor, each battery could be rated at 25AH or more.
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The wiring of the batteries may be implemented by referring to the following connection details:
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About Swagatam
I am an electronic engineer (dipIETE ), hobbyist, inventor, schematic/PCB designer,
manufacturer. I am also the founder of the website: https://www.homemade-circuits.com/,
where I love sharing my innovative circuit ideas and tutorials.
If you have any circuit related query, you may interact through comments, I'll be most happy
to help!
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Comments
controller “B” runs rear wheel has blown mosfit’s I bought new controller thru allibaba Express they
sent wrong controller I need 60v 35 amp instead 60v 45amp I belive my scooter can handle the
higher amp will they work on my brand of scooter mone of wires labled no wiring
diagrams/schematics do you know where to purchase a wiring diagrams/schematics for my type of
scooter help me
REPLY
Swagatam says
July 21, 2022 at 9:31 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-131761)
60V 45 amp controller is better than 60V 35 amp controller since it is has 10 amp more power
handling capacity, so you an use the 60V 45 amp controller with the scooter motor without any
issue.
Sorry, I do not have the wiring diagram of the scooter which you have specified. I am not sure
where this can be purchased from.
REPLY
Hamid says
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Regards….
REPLY
Swagatam says
July 28, 2021 at 4:55 pm (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-92797)
Hello Hamid, you can use MC33039 IC also, or any other suitable BLDC driver! The main idea is to
control the wheel of the vehicle through a BLDC motor
REPLY
Hamid says
July 28, 2021 at 5:12 pm (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-92798)
Thanks for your kind reply sir…..
REPLY
i dont understand e riksha controler.please make easy (3 phase 3000waat 60volt BLDC motor
control).
just download and make this circut.i make the car but i am not afordable purchaes this controler i
thankful him you make this pcb.
REPLY
Swagatam says
March 9, 2020 at 5:03 pm (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-77172)
Hello Kurram, the BLDc circuit shown above is not difficult, you just have to purchase the IC and
the other parts and then assemble them to get the results.
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/48v-3kv-electric-vehicle-circuit/ (https://www.homemade-
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p // / /( p //
circuits.com/48v-3kv-electric-vehicle-circuit/)
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Kaleemulla says
January 8, 2020 at 2:33 pm (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-74168)
HI
Your thoughts……
REPLY
Swagatam says
January 8, 2020 at 5:46 pm (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-74178)
It will work for star BLDC configuration also….most BLDCs have typically star configuration.
REPLY
Peter says
August 6, 2019 at 11:49 pm (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-69038)
Hi, I just tried to build this circuit and it blew up😥😭😭.
The problem is that the components are not properly indicated and I tried to figure out but made a
bomb instead of a computer. Do you mind assisting with a better design or anyone who has it figured
out please assist me.
REPLY
Swagatam says
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blew t e you ust d ag ose t e ault you c cu t. Do you ea to say oto ola ave
designed a wrong circuit? It is a BLDC controller, and just like any other circuit this circuit must
be first verified on workbench table with a proper supply.
REPLY
Sylvanus says
January 21, 2018 at 1:45 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-57838)
Hello Mr Swagatam,
Please, I want to implement an e-rickshaw controller for BDC motor (24v, 4hp). Cos, in my first trial
components were popping sporadically.
So, can you please suggest some a good circuit diagram for me?
REPLY
Swagatam says
January 21, 2018 at 12:26 pm (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-57850)
Hi Sylvanus, did you try the above concept?
Alternatively you can Google for “24V BLDC driver circuit” you may come across many good pdf
documents regarding this topic, which you can refer and implement for the purpose
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Swagatam says
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Swagatam says
January 3, 2017 at 11:48 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-47766)
Devraj, as mentioned in the article for 48V or higher supplies you may have to use a voltage
regulator circuit for feeding pin#17 of the IC…you can try a TL431 based circuit for making the
regulator.
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2012/12/explaining-programmable-shunt-regulator.html
(https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2012/12/explaining-programmable-shunt-regulator.html)
REPLY
Ankith says
April 21, 2016 at 4:43 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-40377)
Hi swagatam thanks for the reply,could you suggest any other alternatives to the TIP36/2N2907
darlington configuration that is in single package.
thank you
REPLY
Unknown says
April 19, 2016 at 5:42 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-40329)
Hello sir,thank you for sharing this circuit with us,i had a couple of doubts,it would be great is you
could solve them:
2.Aren't almost all BLDC in star formation instead of delta,if not how will this circuit have to be
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,
modified to suit a star formation BLDC motor.
REPLY
Swagatam says
April 19, 2016 at 7:41 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-40331)
Hello, In the original datasheet BJTs are recommended so I doubt if mosfets could be replaced
with them…I think you should go with BJTs instead of FETs.
for increasing the power you can try TIP36/2N2907 joined in Darlington configuration and replace
with the TIP147 transistors
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Swagatam says
March 23, 2016 at 6:14 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-39945)
you can try this circuit:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2016/01/universal-variable-power-supply-circuit.html
(https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2016/01/universal-variable-power-supply-circuit.html)
REPLY
Unknown says
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can i use this from this plan for casual bicyle and what is Speed set in plan.
thanks
REPLY
Swagatam says
March 19, 2016 at 5:00 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-39838)
yes you can. speed will depend on motor specs and battery specs.
REPLY
Sachin says
November 27, 2015 at 6:30 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-36267)
Swagatam,
I want to understand why 5 mosfets when one alone is sufficient to drive the motor?
Thanks
Sachin
REPLY
Swagatam says
November 28, 2015 at 4:01 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-36284)
Sachin, looks like the upper two mosfets are in parallel, and the lower three are in parallel with
each other.
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Sachin says
October 24, 2015 at 1:42 pm (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-35130)
Swagatam,
1) I want to understand what is top drive and bottom drive. Could you elaborate on this?
2) I looked into the datasheet of MC33035. It says that Top Drive Voltage max is 40V.
Can it be used to drive motor of 48v? When batteries are fully charged, the 48v battery voltage
readings are around 56v… If I connect 56v to pin14 (Vm), would it work or would it blast the IC? IC is
costly, Rs.425 on RSdelivers website.. I dont want to burn it 🙂
3) I am planning to build a controller around this for Yo EXL which is 1300w continuous and 1800w
peak. Is this controller IC is usable?
4) Looked into TIP147 datasheet, It has max voltage of 100v. I assume this is fine for driving 48v/60v
motor. Right?
5) Collector current of TIP147 is 10A continuous, 15A peak. For driving 1300W continuous/1800w
peak motor with 48v battery, the current required is around 27A continuous/37A peak. That would
require 3 MOSFETs per phase(connected in series or parallel???). I am a new bee here. Please offer
your suggestions on this.
Thanks
Sachin
REPLY
Swagatam says
October 25, 2015 at 6:00 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-35151)
Thanks Sachin,
for driving 3-phase motors we require high side and low side driver configuration to supply the
required 3-phase signal to the motor at the specified shift angle…..it's a kind of H-bridge
configuration designed for operating 3-phase loads correctly.
yes, the upper drive transistors are rated at 40V…so in order to drive higher voltage motors we
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y , pp g g
could use opto coupler such 4n35 with pins1, 2, 24, this would effectively solve the issue and
allow us to use virtually all kinds of motors regardless of their voltage/current specs.
according to me, this IC (with the opto-couplers) could become universally suitable for all types of
BLDC motors, provided the output devices are dimensioned accordingly.
you could replace the TI147 with a Darlington combination of TIP127 and TIP36…this would
allow you to drive the mentioned high wattage motors with ease.
for the mosfet you could probably use single IRF540 on each channel (adequately heatsinked)
these are rated to handle 33amps at 100V
REPLY
Swagatam says
October 25, 2015 at 6:10 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-35152)
….sorry 4n35 won't work, it's too rated at 30V…you could try H11G1M
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Sachin says
November 21, 2015 at 2:57 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-36076)
Swagatam,
The data sheet talks about using optocoupler MOC8204 for driving motors of high voltage/wattage.
Could you please provide the wiring diagram for optocoupler connectivity for all upper and lower
MOSFETs?
Thanks,
Sachin.
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Swagatam says
November 21, 2015 at 4:51 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-36082)
Sachin,
the complete wiring detail is alerady provided in the particular diagram, in the datasheet.
you can find how the transistor leads of the opto is connected with the 1M, 4k7 and the zener
diode and the fet…the LED of the opto can be seen connected a with a 1K resistor.
so this needs to be applied for all the upper three outputs for implementing the intended high
voltage operation.
REPLY
Swagatam says
November 21, 2015 at 4:56 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-36083)
select the current sensing resistor Rs such that a 100mV appears across it for the desired over
current value…..meaning if suppose you select 10amp as the over current limit then Rs value
must be selected such that a 100mV voltage is developed across it at 10amp current
REPLY
Swagatam says
November 21, 2015 at 4:58 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-36084)
Rs = 0.001/Max current
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Sachin says
November 21, 2015 at 7:07 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-36087)
You mean that it is one optocoupler for one mosfet pair Atop:Abottom. Right?
What is the formula for calculating Rt and Ct for a preferred maximum speed of vehicle?
In your earlier response, you asked me to use Darlington pair of TIP126 and TIP36. Could you please
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I am troubling you a lot, and you are the source of help for me. I can do work, but i just need some
right directions. Please bear with me….
Thanks
Sachin
REPLY
Swagatam says
November 21, 2015 at 1:38 pm (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-36099)
opto coupler will be required only for the top pinouts 2, 1, and 24.
the formula for calculating Rt/Ct could be somewhere in the datasheet, you can check it out, by
the way the values furnished in the above article would be generate around 20kHz frequency
which you can easily alter by practically varying the Rt value and confirming the same with a
frequency meter.
Darlington pair will not be required if you are using an optocoupler, as these would be replaced
with FETs….for reference you can check the following article to learn how Darlington transistor
are connected:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2014/11/48-v-inverter-circuit.html
(https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2014/11/48-v-inverter-circuit.html)
REPLY
Sachin says
November 23, 2015 at 11:43 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-36165)
Some Vboost is required for pin 5 on the optocoupler. There is also a circuit given in ds, fig 30. I
searched for the ic given there which is MC1555. Did not find it.
In the h bridge, is it the top set of fets that drive forwards, or the bottom fets?
-sachin
REPLY
Swagatam says
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Swagatam says
November 23, 2015 at 3:25 pm (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-36169)
I think Vboost = Vm + 12V
the upper and the lower fets together operate the motor as per the complex sets of signals
delivered by the IC.
REPLY
pro says
October 20, 2015 at 9:52 am (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-35035)
sir, i will like to generater at list [12V—50V] DC from a coil and magnet
REPLY
Swagatam says
October 20, 2015 at 12:31 pm (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-35046)
pro, you can achieve this by using any standard "555 boost circuit", but please do not anticipate
any kind of free energy generation from the result…the output V x I result will be always less
than the input V x I
REPLY
pro says
October 20, 2015 at 1:36 pm (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-35049)
ok,sir
REPLY
pro says
i am having eletricity problem,i have got an inverter that run on 9-12V, that is why i am looking for
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REPLY
Swagatam says
October 20, 2015 at 4:07 pm (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-electric-
scooterrickshaw/#comment-35053)
If you are looking for free electricity then you can install panels or wind generator set up….
REPLY
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