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How to sew buttonholes HL Annora Reyner
30 June 2016
Supplies:
-Garment/item needing buttons and buttonholes
-Buttons
-Needle, thread (regular sewing thread is fine, silk buttonhole twist is great)
-Small sharp scissors and/or seam ripper
-Measuring tape, ruler
Step 1: Determine how long to make your buttonholes
Use the measuring tape to measure around the top half of the button, using the diameter
as a measuring point. This is how long your buttonhole should be.
Step 2: Decide on placement of buttons and buttonholes, spacing between them, overlap on the
garment sides, direction of buttonholes.
There is no correct side for buttons and buttonholes for men and women in the Middle
Ages or Renaissance Europe. Choose whichever side makes you happiest. The space between
buttons and buttonholes will be affected by the size of the buttons and the fit of the garment.
Larger buttons will need more space so as not to crowd each other. Fitted garments will need
buttons spaced closer together to avoid gapping. Try pinning the garment closed at each button
placement first before making a final decision. Most medieval garments had as many buttons as
possible so as to display the wealth and status of the wearer, but each garment will have its own
requirements. Some garments show the buttons attached at the edge of the garment, and others
have buttons placed in from the edge to allow for overlap. Most buttonholes are oriented
horizontally but you may orient them vertically if you choose.
Step 2B: Prepare the buttonhole side of your garment
It is usually preferable to have either a facing or strengthening addition behind
your buttonholes. This will help when you are sewing them and will help them wear
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better. An extra bias strip can always be added to the inside of your garment if you have
not prepared for this adequately.
Step 3: Once you know where you’re putting a
buttonhole, mark each end. I like to use pins,
perpendicular to the direction of my
buttonhole.
Step 4: Sew a running stitch in a small
rectangle around your marked buttonhole. Try
to keep your rectangle at the same length away
from the marked buttonhole. I like to start and
end on the side towards the rest of the garment.
The running stitch will be your guide for the
length of your stitches and help keep your
fabric together. We do not have documentation
showing this method in our period but it’s a very
helpful step.
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Step 5: Cut the buttonhole open. Be careful
not to go past your end points and not to
cut your running stitch.
Step 6: Begin your first
buttonhole stitch and continue
down one long side of the
buttonhole. The knots will be
along the edge of your
buttonhole. Continue until you
reach the end of the buttonhole.
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Step 7: You may continue the
buttonhole stitch around the
sides of your buttonhole or you
can work bars across the short
sides. You may also choose to
leave the short sides alone.
Step 8: Work the other side of
your buttonhole until you reach
your start again. Finish by
burying the tail of the thread
into the garment or back into
your buttonhole stitches.
Other resources to use:
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/jennifer/buttons/Buttonhole%20page.htm
http://cottesimple.com/tutorials/how-to-sew-medieval-buttonhole/right-handed
