cHffilfrltE

SH(}P TRAIHIHC
JOB GUIDES

LESSON
2
Crowns,Stems,Sleevesand Bows

Sections41 - 65

cHrcAGoscHoot or wATcHrsAtrtt{e
2ir$$ H. ltllrctrkrr lvr. . Chlcnto tIT,lllinclr
this page intentionally teft blank
 MASTER. WATCHMAKING l.esson2
A *lodern, Complelo, Practicql Course
Sections
cFrrcAco sc]loor oF wATcHmArlNG 4l to 55
Founded t9O8 by Thorns* B. Sweazey

Lesson 2. - Crowns, Stems, Sleeuesand Boroe.

^ T:IXCEPT in Railroad rvatches, the At 5 is shown a sectional view of the crown,

o';:;o"
r'.odern watch is "pendant set"- the center being drilled and threaded to fit the
fl
B;' this we mean that to set the upper threaded part of the stem.
hands, the crown (and of course with it the The crown shorvn at 4 is known as a round
stem) is pulled out to a different pasition than crown, used only on the older style cases, 6 is a
when winding the mainspring. In one position more modern antique shape while 7 and 8 are
the winding parts are thrown into gear while in crowns used on Wrist and Bracelet watches.
the other the setting parts are brought into play. Sec. 42 - ilIauement from Case
This uecessitates some means of holding the In demonstrating this job I have rtsed a twelve
winding stem in two different positions. In most
American pocket watehes this is accomplished
by means of an adjustable "sleeve" serewed into
-*& @
the pendant of the case and through lvhich the
stem extends,
At 1 in figure 27 is shown the stem and sleeve
assembled, ready to be inserted in the pendant
of an Open Face case. The upper part of the
H ffi
I
5
4

sleeve at H is threaded and the inside of the

pendant of the case is likewise threaded so that w
the sleeve with the stem attached is screwed in-
to the proper position in the pendant by means K.
2r'
@
of a sleeve wrench. 6
At 2 is shown the sleeve alone and at 3 the

Jr
stem.
The lower part of the sleeve at J is divided ffi
into four parts so that it realll' makes four steel 7
fingers. These fingers grip the stem in either
one of the slots K or L holding it in position,
5'et allon'ing the stem to turn freelv inside the B
sleeve. 3 I
When the sten is in the winding position
'When
these fingers grip the upper slot at K. the
watch is to be set the stem is pulled straight size Illinois movement in a S. B. and S. B. Case.
out until the fingers of the sleeve are forced After removing the back frorn the case the
over the shoulder on the slem and are holding movement rx'ill appear as in figure 23.
in the slot L. Bear in mind that this sleeve, once The two case screws at A and B are full head
placed in its position in the case is stationarl'; as esplained before. In section 17 I explained
the stem slides within this sleeve. that it 'rn'asbest to take out the full head case
As seen at 1 the stexr is held by the sleeve in $crews whereas with half head it was only ne-
the winding position. ce$sary to turn them part way around wheu
The crorryn as shown at 4 is screwed on the taking the movement from the case.
upper end of the stem after the sleeve with stem With this case it is only necessary to remove
is in place in the pendant of the case. the screw B and then by loosening A a few turns
Siecfforrs 4.] to 46 Lessart 2

a n d pulling t he cro w n o u t to th e s e tti n g p o s i ti on of the sleeve. These slots can be seen at the top
the movenrent cornes easily frorn the case. of the sleeve in 1 and 2 in figure 27. Some
Sec. 43 - Retmouing ,^, Cvsttrn sleeves have ts'o slots on the top, while others
have four. On the sleeve wrench some of the
In order to get at the sleeve after tJre rnove- prongs are made rvith lrl'o projecting lugs and
me nt is out of t h e c AS e ,i t i s fi rs t n e c e s s a r-r'
t o re- others u'ith four to fit the trvo styles of sleeves.
move the crorvn frorn the stem and this is done \\'lren selecting the prolrer prong on the rvrenclt
observe whether you need it for trvo or four
slots.
When adjusting the sleeve the cro\\rn is re-
nroved from ihe stern llut the stern is left in its
place. through the center of sleeve.
Another t-vpe of sleeve wrench has but four
prongs, suitalrle for the smaller sleeves and is
knorvrr as a bracelet sleeve u..rench.This x'rench
*'orks on tlre same principle as the one sho*'n
i n fi gure 31 and 32.
Sec. 1+5- lfgmluirt.rl Sleepe and Stent
S el ecti ng a prong of the ri ght si ze to go i nt o
the pendant rvi thout fri cti on anrl of a styl e t o
sui t the sl eeve. pl ace the ti l l i n the sl ots of t hc
sl eeve i nsi de the pendant as show n i n fi qure 31.
Be sure that yorir slccve rvrench prong is not
too l arge i n ci i anreteror i t rnal ' cut and rui n t he
thrcads on thc i nsi de of the pendant. \\ri th t he
s,rench in the lrosition shorvn in figrre ll1 it is
r]olv possil:le to trrist the sleeve to the left arrcl
as you conti nue trrrni ng, the sl eeve and rvi t h it
the stern N ' i l I eradual l v come ori t as show n in
figure 32, rn'here the threacled part of the sleeve
is shorrn at E part x'ay out of the pendant. Con-
tinue until thc sleeve is free rvhen il ma1' be
removed frcm the case.
At figure 33 is shorvn the assembled sleeve
and stem as Iiftecl part rvav out.
b 3 ' h< llding t he lo rv e r e n d o f th e s te m b y n reans After relnoving frorn the case, the sleeve may
o f a pair of f la t p l i e rs h e l d i n o n e . h a n d i ts lte pulled off the threacied end of the stem as
slrown in figure 29 and rnith the fingers of ttre shox'n in the enlarged view in figure 34.
other hand tt'ist the crorn'n to the left continu- Sec. /t6 - .trreruSleeues
ing to turn it until it is separateti frorn the stern.
Norv it r.vill apl)ear as in figure 30, the upper. In any r,r'aichdepending upon a sleeve to hold
threacled end of the stent from u.hicrh the crorvn thc stem i n proper posi ti on for v' i ndi ng or seL-
h a s been r em ov e d s h o w i n g a t C rv h i l e th e l ow er ting, -you as u lvsfc:hnraker rvill have jolis com-
()r s quar c enc l nl a y l l e s e e n a t D , tl i i s p h o to be- i ng i n needi ng repl acements of these parts -
i n s enlar get l in o rc l e r to s h o w th e s e p a rts b etter. a nerv sleeve, stem or crown. A customer lrrings
i n l ri s w atch compki i ni ng that i t suddenl l " ga ins
See. 4l - (.'sirtu tL Slecur: 11'r.r,rrr.li
or loses an ]rour or Inore r.r'ithout apparent
O ne of t he pop u l a r fo n n s o f s l c c v e rv r.e nches cause. fl pon testi ng you mav fi nd that the stem
i s s hown in us c i n fi g u re s 1 3 1a n c l 3 2 . E a c h of slips from the rvinrling to the setting position
th e s ev er al lr r on u s o n ti ri s n ro d e l i s s h a p ed at and the cl tances are that the l ow er part of t he
th e c nd int o a r v re n c h a i l i n g a v a ri e tv o f s i zes sleeve u.hiclt grips the stem has become worn
su it able f or nr ost o f th c s l e e l -e si n p o c k e t s ,atch* to sucl r an cxtent that i t w i l l not hol el thc stem
e s . I n a d j u s t i n g t h e s l e e v e ,a p r o n g i s s e l e c t e d i n pl ace. S orneti rnes orl e or more of the s t eel
o f t he pr oper s i z e a n d s h a p e to g c l i n s i rl e tl re fi nger* l i ke ti ps has been broken. In ei ther case
p e ndant and f it i n to th e s l o ts i n th e u p p e r part replace rn'ith a new sleeve.
Lesson 2 II AS7'E Il 141
AT C FIil'T
A KTT{
G Sectiorts /+7 to +9

Sec. /t7 -- ;Yerr,rCrowns end and pressirru intci place, see figure 34. It
When your customer conrplains that his often recguires qr"rite a pres$ure before it goes
watcll rvinds too hard you ma)' find upon into place.
examination that the crorvn is rvorn so that it \Vhenever yol,l fincl it nece"ssaryto put in a
tencls to slip betlveen ttre fingers unless grillped neu.'stenr, be sure to tr-v the square of the stem
tight enough to tire the hand. Occasiclnally the in the wincling arbr-lr of the nlovement tc see
cro'wn may be too small in diarneter. In either that it fits properly. Also trv the threaded end
event replace with a new crown of proper shape in the erown to be sure that the threads are of
and size, correct pitch and cliarneter.
'fhese
Again the stem lna)' be broken right at the tests rxlv take a felv seconds and al-
crown with a small piece of the steel rernaining \f,'a_vsshoultl be made.
inside so that it is impossible to tu'ist it out. If Sec. 4!] - Replttc:ing Sfern and. Sleeue
the crown is of goltl, gold filled or nickel the
piece of stem can be dissolved by rneans of a In replacing the sterrr ancl sleeve assembly in
dilute solution of sulphuric acicl or a saturated the case it is necessarv to atljr.rst the sleeve scl
soh:tion of alum in rn'ater. The sulphuric acid tlrat rvhen the stem is pushed in, it .rvill wind
solution is made by por"rring one part of the
acid slowly' into three or four parts of rvater'.
liever poul the water into the acid as this causes
a violent chernical reaction. Even when pouring
the acid slowly into the rvater there rn'iil be
quite a little heat generated. This solution
shoulcl be made in a glass or porce'lain cup and
the crown immersed in it. Of course there
should be no oil or grease on the piece of stern
irnbetlded in the crown if the solution is to work
at its best. The sohrtion should start rvorking on
the steel lrart at once as can be seen b1.-a tin;'
rorv of bubbles arising frorn it. T'his should con-
t inue unt il t h e s te e l i s e n ti re l y d i s s o l v e d.
Be careful not to get any of the sulphuric acitl
soltrtion on l'our clothes, as it will destro1' any
cotton threads or goods -with u'hich it comes in
c ont nc t . A I s o a v n i d i n h a i i n g L h e fu me s .
A saturated solntion of alum in water will
affec:t steel tlre same rvay ancl on ilc.count of its
being less dangerous might be better for the
beginner to rrse. It rn'orks slorver than the aciel
solution. Tire action of cither of these soltrtions
can be hastened sornervhat liy heating.
Refore attempting to rlissolve the steel end of
a stern from a cro$,n it is best to examine the
crown to see that it is rvorth the extra effort.
The major.itv of x'atcrhlnakers do not go
throtrgh this llrocess except rvith a valuahle
crown but instead sell the cr,rstomera ne*' stem
and a rlew cro\il.rrwhenever such a job conres in.
Sec. /+8 ---. lfea.r ,$/ems and rvhen it is pulled out -r-ottwill he abJe to set
If the stenr is broken or lvorn, select a nerl,r the hands. In retnoving an oIcI or broken sleeve
one of proper sl"rapeand size, and after pushing or stem, it is a good plan to remember approx-
the old stem out of the sleeve, press the nerv inrately' horv far the sleeve lvas screwed in the
one far enough through that the fingers clf the pendant so tlrat rvhen 1'ou replacle the nelv one
sleeve are in the proper notch on the stern, The -you carl lrlace. it in about tlie $ame position as
stem is placed in the sleeve h1. starting tlre it u'as lrefore.
threaded portion through the lorver or finger A fter trtrni ng i n tl re sl eel :e' and stem t o t he
Sectians 50 to 52 }fAS?'gR W AT CHfuIAIiIN G Lesson 2

distance you judge is coirect, screw the crown

on the end of the stem and then replace the
movement in the case. Do not try the winding
and setting until the case screl&,sare in place
and holding the movement in the sarrreposition
it will occup-v when the job is completed and
ready to be given to the customer.
If you find that you can set the hands correct-
ly but upon pushing in the crown and stem to
the winding position you cannot wind the watch,
the sleeve has not been scrern'ed in far enougtr.
Then retnove the crowl and screw dox'n the
sleeve until it winds properly.
Should you find that the watch winds proper-
ly in the case but does not set q'hen the stem is
pulled out to the setting position it will be ne-
cessary to turn the sleeve out until it will set.
If you have difficulty in making it set or
u'ind, which you do not seem able to overcome
by making these adjustments, there may be
sorne trouble in the setting aruangement in the
movement itself. Take the movement out of the
case and test with one of your bench ke-v*s,se-
lecting a key of proper size. Press the key iuto
the movement and try the winding. Then pull
the key out slightly and see that the setting is
O. K. If the set and wind work outside the case Sec. 52 - The Reuersible Sleeve
]'ou should have no trouble in adjusting the Another type of sleeve used on $orne models
sleeve so they rvill work while in the case. of watch cases is called the reversibtre sleeve.
Sec. 50 -- trreru Stem Too Long Figure 35 is a view of a Waltham Wrist watch
rrith the back removed. This is the snap form
In replacing a nerv stem for an old one you
of case so that the back is pried off with a case
occasionally may find the square is so long that
opener. Before removing the rnovernent it is
it rvould be impossible to make the u'atch set
also necssary to take off the front. In many
without having the sleeve too far out of the
of there rvrist watches there are keys and key
pendant. Then it is ouly necessary to file off
seats to help locate the exact position of front
the proper amount frorn the lou'er end of the
and back as explained in section 23 of lesson 1-.
square to nrake it vrork. The same is true of the
In this one it is not necessary to have such help
other end. If the threaded part is so long that
in locating the position of the back.
the crorvn is held too high, this end should be
After taking out the c.ase serews and remov-
c.ut off. Rut be sure lhe fault lies in the stem
ing the nlovement frorn the case, the crown,
being too long before ;*ou start filing. If y'ou
stem and sleeve will appear as in figure 36.
must file take off a little bit at a time. It is an
Here you will notice that the sleeve at A is not
easy matter to cut off too much.
held firmly in the case but when the movement
Sec.51 - Oiting Stem and Sleeae is taken out falls to the position shown.
If the stem and sleeve are dry* it is necessar_v By gripping the square at point B with a pair
to oil the parts where they corne in contact *'ith of pliers the crown mali be twisted off as de-
each other. This u'ill make it easier to move scribed before. The stem and sleeve come out
the stem back and forth rvhen shifting from easily and will appear as in figure 37. Here you
winding to setting position and rvill eliminate a rvill notice that the sleeve itself has no threacled
slight seJueak that rnav occur in rvinding and portion, merelv the slroulder at C. When the
setting s'hen these parts are not oilecl. stern and sleeve are in the case the sleeve is
To take care of this, plac.e a very small held in its proper position by the pressure of the
amount of watch oil at the point K or L on the rnovement against this shoulder C. There is a
stem (see 3 in figure 27) after the stem is in the slight recess in the case into which this shoulder
sleeve. is pressed by the u'atch movement so that only
Les s on 2 MASTER WATCHI,TAKING Secffons 53 to 56

when the movenent is in the case is the stem be more satisfactor-rto the cu$tomerthan to
and sleeve in position to funciion properly. wait several days and also saves valuable time
In figure 38 the stem and sleeve are shown for the workman. Again in buying Jiour ma-
separated. terial in assclrttnents, you make quite a saving
In comparing this assembly with that of the on the cost when compared to the price charged
other type of sleeve 1'ou u.'ill notice that the for rnatching a single piece.
larger portion of the sleeve is toward the squar.e If you have one of the better assortments of
end of the stem. In other words in replacing this stem and sleeves, you will find that there is a
the threaded portion goes through thq sleeve compartment for each size and make so that it
in the direction of the arrow F figure 38. is not at all difficult to make your selection.
,Sec.5J - Bows fn some of the cheaper assortments it is pos-
In figure 39 are sho*,n some of the numerous sible to get a nice variety at a moderate price
shapes of bovvs used on pocket n'atches. The but the pieces are not separated and you will
round form shown at M is used only on the have to pick each piece by comparison.
older models. The plain antique at N is a later
model than the round bow. At O is shown a
French Antique bow and at P a so called stream
line bow. All these bows are plain poUshed.
Some of the modern bows as now furnished
on u'atch cases are gettting arx.'ay from these
plain standard shapes and are found in a varie-
ty of designs. At S, T, U, V and W are shown
the pendants and bows of several different
American made cases.
The majority of bov's are held in position on
the case by merely springing them into place.
ffi
The pendant has a recessed place or ear, on
each side into which the end of the bow fits.
The born'is usnally sprung on by spreading it
with a pair of bow pliers or a bow expander
until it *'ill just slip into place. Sometimes a
ffi
bow is too loose and it is then necessary to close
it up slightly by means of a bow plier or a bow
tightener.
Sec. 5t* - Bows u;ith Pegs
ffi
Some of the fancy bos's are held in place by
scres: pegs and these bows are removed or re-
placed by means of the screw pegs and without
being cornpelled to spring the bow in place. At
Q in figure 39 is shorvn one of these bows with
one of the screw peg"s remoyed and shown by
itself at R.
Sec. 55 - Neces$ary Material
Watchmakers whether in a retail jex'elry
store or in an exclusive repair shop, find it
necessary to carry a line of the different parts
or materials needed in the rn'ork of servicing
and repairing tinre pieces. Crowns, stems,
sleeves and borvs are some of the things that
are used almost daily. It is not necessary to get
these in large quantities but by buying in srnall Sec^56 - Selecting a Sleeue
assortments it is possible to have a supply that In a sleeve it is necessary that the threaded
will fit most of the jo,bs that come in. portion A figure 39 is the correct diameter, that
Having the material right on hand makes it the threads are of correct pitch and the length
possible to get the jobs out sooner and this will B is right.
Sectiotts 57 to 60 j}IAST'ER W AT C HM AKI l\i G Lessan 2

Using your olcl sleeve as a pattern select one you can select your stock of materials and find-
from -vour assortment that seerns about the ings rrrore intelligently.
$ame size. Lay the ner*' one right along side tlre You are alwal's safe in having an as$ortment
o l d one and s ec th a t i t i s th e s a me l e n g th a n d as of antique borvs in different sizes in gold filled
near as possible the sarne diameter. Test the as these are staple supplies that must be carriecl
diarneter A figure 3t) by trying the sleeve in the at all tirnes. It rvill hardly pay for you tr.r
p e n dant of t he c a s e . S l i p th e s te n r i n th e s leevc attempt carrying the many fancy shapes at first.
and try rvith tlre c.aseand movement. It is better to rlrder tlrese as )'ou need them.
If you find it lrecessary to order a nelv sleevc, In selecting a borv for a round ca.se,as a gen-
give tlre size of the case for rvhich it is intencled eral rule it is possible to use one found in one
and the manufacturers narlle or tracle mark of the regular assortments of bolvs, either in an
fo und in t he ba c k . A Is o b e s u re to s e n d i n tl re ol d ruodel rouncl i f i t i s a real ol d case wit h
old slecve as a sample. In ordering any piece of round cro\f,/n or an anticlne bow to match an
material for a rvatch or case alwags send in thu antique crort'n on a more modern case.The bot,
old piece as a model froru rvhich to rnake a of course tnust lle of such a size that when it is
selection. This is very irnportant and u'ill often sprung on the pendant there rvill llc no play or
save dela1,'sand nristrnderstandings. sltake. It rnrtst nratch tire carie in color ancl
tlttalitr'.
Sec. 57 -- I;ittirtrr Slems
I n t he bet t er a s s o rtme n ts o f s te rn s . a s i n
sleeves, each size ancl model is in a scparate
compartment. In picking out a stem fronr a
mixed lot see that the square i.s of llroper size
ancl that the distance from the end of the square
to the slot for the sleeve, C figure ilfJ, is correcto
that the rouncl lrart art Ii is about the sanle
l e ngt h as t he old o n e a n d th a t th e w h o l e s te m i s
at least as long as the oltl stem. See that the
threacled portion D fits the crnrvn properll'. If
the lower end C figure Pr9should be too long it
is possible to file off the end of tlre square, pro-
vi ded of c our s e th a t th e ro u n d p a rt E c l o es not
extenel down tao far.
When ordering a stem for a case give same *r.
p ar t ic ular s as in o rd e ri n g a s l e e v e a n d d on' t ry,
forget to send the sarnple stem. r#i
Sec. 58 - Replaeing Crowns
&
I n r eplac ing a c ro w n s e e th a t th e n e w o nc i s
of proper shape and color to rnatch the bow
a n d c as e, t hat th e th re a d e d p o rti o n fi ts the
stem and that the crown is frec on tire pentlarrt
of the case. Of coursc it should be of the same Sec. 6{} - Sruiss Stem arul Croutn
qualit-v as the case, a gold crown on a solid As alreadv stErted the position of ttre wincl
gold case, a gold filled crown on a golcl filled ancl set mechanism in most American Pendant
case and a niekel crown for a nickel case. Set Pockct Watches is controlled by a sleeve
In ortlering a new crorr,n it is v,'ell to give size and thi s sl eeve i s hel d i n the ca.$e.
ancl style of case and of course send old crou'n In rnost Sg'iss n'atches this rnechanism is held
for sample. If crown is iost send case with stem in position b1' a set lever in the movement itself
in place and crorn'n can be supplied to trtatch and thi s l ever i s connected to and control l ed bv
sizeocolor and shape of case. the stem,
In the American system the sleeve and stem
See. 59 **- .lfeu.r llotus
are assernblecl rvith the ca.se.In the Swiss st-vle
If is rve.llto carry itn assortnlentof borvsto referred to, tltc stcrn is made by the manttfac-
mat c h t he av er a g e j o b th a t i s l ro u g h t i n. A s trrrer of the nrou(menf and cornes with it.
n'atches come in for repairi rnake a note of the In this secrtionof the t'ork I am not going into
st3'les carrieel b-v 1'our customers. In this lvav detai l as to tl re mechani sm of w i ndi ng and set -
Lesson 2 ilIAST'ER WAT'CHMAKING S ecti urts 6 l t o $3

ting parts in ,Srviss as this rvill be

moyernents the watchmaker's and it is neceusary
business
dealt with in a future lesson under ll'inding that you become famiiiar with this work.
and Setting Mechanisms. In this lesson horvever, Horn'ever, I rvant to warn -vou again not to
I want you to become farniliar rvith the rvay the work upon the smaller watch movements. As a
stem operates on the set lever. general rule the beginner is safe in replacing
stems and crown$ on these smaller watches btrt
Se.e.6I - Sutfs.r Stgk: of Settincy
shoulcl never attempt to work on the train,
In figure 40 at E y'ou will see the head of tlre escapement or any of the more delicate palts
set Iever scre\ r. This set lever screlv extends until lre.has gone. rnuch further with his lessons.
clorvn through both plates antl is threaded into
the set lever on the dial side" as seen at F' in Sec. 63 - Tgpes of DiaI Screuts
figure 43. On the other side of the set Iever is a In rnost American movements the dial is held
pin the riveted end of rvhich shorvs at G. This in place by means of dial screws inserted in the
lr in f it s int o a s l o t i n th e s te m a n d w h en the set edge of the pillar or lou'er plate, lhe ends of
lever scre$' F is tightened it holds the pin in these screws colning in contact rrith and hold-
the slot so that as the stem is pullecl out to the ing the dial feet. \Vhen the dial feet are held in
position shorvn in figure 44 it pulls the set lever this rvay vou can see that it is necessary to have
riglrt along with it throrn'ing the parts into the the nrovement out of the case before re.moving
s et t ing 1> os i ti o n .A n d u ' h e n i t i s p u s h e d back i t or replacing a dial.
c ar r ies t he s e t l e v e r l i a c k to i ts fo rme r posi ti on In the Sw'iss style shov'n here it is perssibleto
wit h t he m e c h a n i s m i n th e rv i n d i n g p o si ti on as rernove or replace tlre dial w'hile the movenrent
shorvn in figure 43. is in the case, In other \,\'ords, if it is necessary
In figure 42 is shorvn a dra*'ing of one of to take off the cl i al at any ti me to exam ine t he
these stems. As 3'ou rvill notic:e it differs solne- pi l l ar pl ate you can do so w i thout taking t he
rvhat from tlte style of American stem rvhich I movement out of the case. \Yhenever vou nrake
have alreatly shown -vou. ;\t the lower end, H, repairs rvhich rerluire the removal of the dial
is shorvn the pilot. This fits in a hole in the plaie on this t-vpe of watch, it is good practice to
of the s'atch to keep the stem properly aligned. postpone replacing the dial until y'ou have the
At K is shorvn the slot into r*'hich the pin on the movernent in the case. This gives you an oppor-
set lever fits. tunitv to see that the winding a.rd setting me-
You will notice that the upper end of this chanisrn is asse.mbledcorrectly.
stern is threaded for a much longer distance Figure 4O shows a typical Swiss 1A/z ligne
than the American style. This long thread movement slightly enlarged. Instead of having
ena'bles the rx'atchmaker to fit this stem to the dial scrervs in the edge of the pillar plate
practically any thickness or rn'idth of case or they are placed on the plate as shown at A and
Iength of pendant, and in fitting one of these B. Pins or dial feet are fastened to the dial and
stems it is ctrt off on the threaded end until it project through the holes in the plate seen right
is the proper length so that the crown projects besitle the screws. By means of these dial feet
the right clistance from the case. the dial is held in its place on the other side of
Sec.62 - Orderdrrg SrurssS/ems arttl Croutns the pillar plate.
fn ordering a ne$'stem or crorA'n it is be'st to In figure 41 is shorvn a drarving of one of
send a sample of the old one. This is possible these dial scre\*'s as fitted in the plate. N repre-
v'ith the stem as it is nearly ahval's in the move- sents the dial foot extending through the plate
rnent even if the crolvn is gone. Often, however M and attached to the dial O. S is the dial
the crown is lost but s'ith an assortment of $crerrr,the threaded part of which at C screws
crowns it is an easy matter to select one match- into the plate. The base of tlre screw fits in a
ing tlre case. slot in the dial foot as shou'n in the drawing at
In selecting a nerx' stem for a Srviss watch D. Part of the base of this dial screw is cut
endeavor to have the pilot about the sanle awa)', sornewhat like the head of a half head
Iength anrl diameter as the old one, the square case screw so that the dial foot can be pushed
the same length and the slot I{ the same dis- throtrgh the plate far enough for the slot to
tance frorn the lower encl of the. square at L. come in line with the base of the dial screw.
Of course if you have the oltl ero\ryn it is ne- Refore tloing this the dial screw should be
cessarlr to see that the threads fit. screrruecldown on the plate with the open side
Stem and crox'n replacements in Stviss wrist of the baserdi rectl v over the dral foot h ole. See
and bracelet watches are a profitable part of A figure 40. After pressing the dial in place so
Sections 64 and 65 MAST'ER WATCHMAKING Ltessan2

that the foot comes through the hole, the screw thread of the screw to hold firmly on the dial
is backed out antl the base of the screw fitting foot.
in the slot of the foot, lifts the dial foot until In Joosening this type of a dial screw it is only
the dial is held against the plate on the other nec.essary to give it a partial turn to the left
side. when it immediately frees itself from the dial
This dial screrv having a right hand thread is foot. The same is true in tightening it, that is,
turnecl down, or to the right 'when vou release it requires only a part cf a turn after pressing
the clial foot and backed out, or to the left when the screw clorn'n to hold tire dial foot and the
you wish to tighten it. dial firmly in place.
Before taking off the dial on either of these
tvlres of Swiss novements it is necessary to re-
Illove the minute and second hands. The hour
hand rlarlr be left attachecl to the hour wheel
and brought awar* from tlre movement with
the dial. After the dial is removed tlre dial side
of the movement rn'ill appear as in figure 43.
See. 65 - Be Fsir to Your Customer
und to Yourself
It is not the best policy* to do repairs right
lrefore your customer. Of course if it is work
done rviihout pay you are justified in giving a
clenronstration of your skill and speed. There is
alrn"ays a temptation to show off, to let your
custornet' see how quickly and perfectl-v you can
clo some of the minor jobs in watch repairing.
I{os'evern this often nrakes him feel that you
are not giving a square deal if you charge for
doing sornething rthich may take only a few
minutes. He does not stop to think that only
after much study and practice are you able to
determine just what is the trouble and turn out
Sec. 6tt - A Later Tgpe o/ Sufss Diql Screw first class work in such a short period of time.
Another type of Srviss dial screrv is shov'n in In replacing parts, a ne!r: stem and crown for
figure 45. Here the hollorv dial screw lt is solne- instance, even though )'ou may be able to do it
r*'hat in the form of a split chrrck fitting in a at once it is best to have the customer leave the
rece$s formed by holes drilled through the trvo watch and promise it for a future date, rather
plates, the hole in the upper plate being small than to do the work while he u'aits. But be sure
enough at the top to prevent the dial screw it is finished when promised.
from. falling out. In this drawing O represents At times 1ou may have customers come in
the upper plate and P the lower plate. The etlge rx'ith a stopped watch where the.re is a tempta-
of the recess in the lower plate is slightl)' be- tion to overcharge. I have seen a watchmaker
veled at Q and the portion of the clial screw at get $3.00 for repairing a watch where the only
R is cut on a taper. The hollowed out portion thing that rvas neede.d was an adjustment of
of the dial screu' is threaded and slotted, hav- the second hand to such a height that it would
ing four slots similar to the one shosvn at S. not catch on the hour hand, the work of only
This screw fits over the dial foot N and is a fern'seconds, His defense was that he was not
tightened b1' pressing down with the screw charging for tlre tirne it took him to do this but
driver in the slot at T, the taperecl sicle of the rather for his skill and ability to make the pro-
scre$' at R pressing against the plate at Q forces per adjustment. I believe. you will find that if
the threads into the soft metal of tlre clial foot you do such little jobs as this right before your
li. Then hy turning the scre\rr to the right with customer and then charge him nothing, yott
a scre\1'driver in the slot T the threads act on will be the gainer in the long rttn. Such acts
the metalof the dial foot at the sem€time draw- establishconfidencenot onlY in -Yourabilit,v
ing the dial Y finnl,v against the los'er plate P. but in -your honesty as rvell and nowtrere else
The dial screw being of tempered steel and the is honesty appreciated more try the public than
foot N being of soft copper allows the hollow in the jewelry and watchmaking profession'
Bq-IS.gF qQ:Nrugs:-Unit tlrl - Lesson2

JOB SI{EETS

W2-J1 - Stern: Pendant Type Wl-th Scre$ Sleeve.

We-Je * Sleeve: Screw Type.

l}I?-Jg - Steru: Reversible Sl-eeve Type,

W 2- J 4 - $ l e e v e : R e v e rs i b l e fype.

W 2- J 5 - Ste rn : $ o i s s Type.

W2-d6 I' Tlvo-plece Snap-in,

W2-J7 - Crown: Pendant fgpe.

WZ-J8 "' Regrrlar Siss fype B::acelet.

W2-J9 rr Tfater-proof .

W 2. -J L 0 --Bo w s : An ti g u e , R o und, Fancy,

V . I z-Il t- Ste n s :. T a n Si z e s .

TofC-i'f].-t8
UNI' 11rI JOB SHEET
tlSgorr a clfrcAoo tcfloo3 (}; wArcHffAr|XA T{?-J}

STEMI Pendant ?lr5>eWith $crew Sleeve

r0_0Ls,
sul$,sNl$m s{lPrrEs,
Sleeve l{rench - F}at Pliers Screwdrivers * File - Case Opener

PR,CCMURE REF'ERE}ICE

HCT TO R]TPIACEiI.Id,lY TYPE CASE USI$G SCRETTYPE SI,EEITE

STE} TN PENDAT{T

1. Removemovernentfrorn case. Les. 1

2. Rernovecrown. Les. 2 - Sec. l+3

3, Removestem and sleeve assernbly. Sec. Iil - U5

h, Seleet n6w stem. Sec. LS

5. Insert stem i:rto ileeve. Cil at polnt of contact. $ec. b9 - 5t

6, Screw sleeve w"ith stem j.:nto pend.ant to approxi.mate position of origlnal,.

7. Replaae crown.

B. Reptace movement. Put case screws in plaoe and tighten.

9" Snap crorrn lnto winding positlon. Check vrincing.

10. Pull crorrn into setting posliion. Check setting,

11 . iviake required ad justrnent to stem " Re-check winding and setting, Sec. 5A

(B-55)we-,n
u1{lT i1
'OF 'HT:T
WZ-j2
tlsiolrf I cHlcroo 3c$oor oi wercxf,Aflile

Sl*pY*i: i;crew Type

T,0OIS, lSII$,|$ivT "rW :SUPPLIFS

;

oleeve wrench - Flat pli-ers - $crewdrivers Case opener - Assembly tweeuers

PBOCMUNE AEF.$REI{CE

HOWT0 REqJ*!u$ pCP+jrTryP.g StulsUE

1, Se1ect the correct sleeve. Les, 2, $es, l+6

2. Assernble stem and sleeve. Oil at point of contact. $ec" Lg - 51

3. Screw stem and sleeve assemhly into pendant to approximate

position of the original. Sec. l+9

h . Put on croun
): ft,ep}.ace movernent in case. Tighten case screvrg ' Les. I

6 . Check vrlnding and setting. Les, ?

? . If sleeve position requires adjustraent, remove movement and
crortr] and make adjustrnent.

B . lilake final check for proper function of the sten and sleever

(s-tl) wz-;z
 ulrlT i,it I
I I I JOB SH:TT
rrsfol{ clllcirco Stlfoor ot uAtcfir4rtrc
.'rt'Z-Jl

$TF:l{t Reversible Sleeve Type

rryr"Foli{c_T:0,8l
i NF0nMg|.lg,,ll
These stems are selected blr t,he siae of the square, length and the
tap size ' send sample of sten and sleeve v,rhenord.ering,

I9oi:fl, sQulpuat:ll,A,tur]
suPPI:Ig€,i
Flat pu-ers - Fench block - case opener - bcre$d.rivers

PROCf,DUgE NEF'ffiENCE
HPTr-q FsPt*qE$rg srn{ IN cAsp1{rrHNEiTIIN,SIBI,ETYPE SI.,EE!rE
1. Removemovement from case , Les. 1
2, Hernorrecrorrn fron stem.. Stem ancl sleeve should slip out. Pie. 29 * 37
3" Removestem from sleeve. Fie" 38
L. Selest sten,

5. Insert stem into sleeve , Fig. 38

6. Replace stem and sleeve and scrertr on cro'!1r11,.

"i . Replace rsovement,, Ir€9. 1

B" Make certain movement is in line and ?,"i11 rqind and set properly,

9, Replace back and bezel.

NCfIll: If crown Coes not fit close to case ring when in winding position,
roake required ad,justment, to threaded portion of sten.

(B-55) lv2-r3
 uHtt fir-J toB sHccr
tr$sor{ 2 cx|crco tc$oot oF rArofnArtilc W2-Jlr

S,!89"Y$
i Iteversible Type

T99ts, IQUIH*#:m. slrFflms,

4,\F-,
Sleeve lrrrench - Screwdrivers - Case opener - Assernbly tweezers - Flat pLiers

PROCdDURE REFENENCg

HIJIYTp. FilP-LAc-iiEitiirlnslEl,$ lIEFylr

]. iielect the correct sleeve .

2. Assernble stem and sleeve . t:"' 5z

ilil point of contact between stera and sleeve.
*l;

3. bec, >t

i{ , P}ace stem and s}eeve in pendant and put on cro'wn.

5. Replace movernentin the case.

6, Check rvj-nding and setting for proper function,

7, Make required adjustrnent r -

B, Final. check for proper functj-on,

ilSTE l hhen ord ering an jrdividual sleeve , send sample sleeve and the stem .
If sample sleeve is not available send case also.

(8--55) lliz-Jil
UNTT }TI JOB SHETT
rEsgolf 2 cnrtAoo ;gHoot o? uArcilnAlrffo w2_J5

$TEXid: Swiss Type

r.?9,lsr4turFer{Nr_4Nn
supplrEs*
End cutting pliers * File - Firnrise * $crewdrivers - Case opener - lLssernbly
tweezers

PROCMURE REFERE}IOE

TO nsrplAcENgl{ si,irs$ sTyJ,EsT4{

HOTf
l. Removemovement from case, Three piece and wat€r-Df,oof type of case
require renoval of stem before rnovement can be taken out. $ec, 6o, 61
'rt'f--
liee J3.
2. Removethe olC sfen. Sec. 6t

3, Identify movement anC select stero. Les. l+

l, , Insert ne'qrstem into rnovernent,. l,{ake sure it is in uinding posj-tion.

5. Replace movement i:rto case and sut off the excess threaded portion
which protrudes fronr c&s€r

6. Remove st,em.

7. Place stem in lathe or pinvise and srnooth end of threaded portlon

w'ith a f ile or stone.

B. Replace crolqn.

9, Replace st'en and crovrn in novement.

10. Tighten set lever screw,

11, Seplace movement in case .

t1-55i w2-J5
 UNIT WI JOB 'H;:T
'fn-J6
L:f'{}N 2 cHrcroo scHgot o? tAtcHtArlilc

SfFHI Two-piece Snap-in

ION
INFOR]'.AT
TNTRODUCTORY

This type of stem is rncst conmonly used vriih watef resistant cases wtrich
do not have a removable back. The stem cornes j"n tvro pieces rvhich interlock
when snapped into position. The trEo pieces are called the stem and the cror$n
neck.
Jn ord.er to renove the movement frorn the case the cro'rdri and crown nesk
must be detached from ttre stem. This is done by gripping cro$n finrnly and
pu}ling outvrani.. After rernoving thre movement from the case the set lever
screw can be released to remove the stem.
Stenrs and crown necks colne in a variety of lengths, Stems may have
either a male tip locki"ng end or a female lock slot. Crown necks also coffie
in a variety of lengthrs tnd are availab3-e vrith both male and female }ock ends
with either nrale or female thread.
When orderi-rig stems or crory:i necks always send correet identi^fication of
the movement. (Lesson l+, ) If a sarnple of the part required is not availabLe
an'C included w"ith order, the fol]-owing rnust be furnishedl dtstanae between
set lever slot and end of stem, indicate whether male or fenale st'ern. lThen
ordering cro'ffn neck furnish length, indicate whether male or femal-e locking
and thread. The vratchmaker generally carries a sna]1 selection of different
Iengths of stems and cr'orfri necks -fon replacement purposese

STEM: tr&a1eloek ond $Tfr{: Fernale lock end

{ --l \*-

b - f f

CR0Sll NSOK: Female l-ock - Male thread. CRO"llTi\ECK: Male lock - Fenale thread

NOTE; Crown aecks also wltb both ends female or both male.

T00I^9 ECIUrPi.JElffAhTDSUPPLTES
:

Screwdrivers - Flat pliers

PHOCET'RE

{g!r rq rr? T!'fO.PI$CE ST&M

1, S e l e c t the eorrect stem for the movement',

(845) w2-.r6 (ovffi)

lofz
 ''ftz-J5
Continued

PR0CT,DUR$ C0$t'Iiii.t,ri)

2. fneert sten irr the rnovement.

l, ?ighten set lever screy{,

l+. Test for proper function of the stem.

5. Ftt, novemcnt in back of ca6e.

5. Assemble bezel, crystal and, back,

7. Select the coryect cro-flrt nec.k

B. Scren the cro'wr neck into the crow?l,

9. Place crolyn and neck in sten: opening cf the Gos€r

10. Turn crCIyn slo'rvly as you press inward until paris snap in place and
;
int erlock,

11, Test ',r'inding ard setting,

NO{E: rf only stem is being replaced. f*]low stepsi 1, zr 3r lr, ir 6r gt 1o, 11.
if only crcwn neck is being replaced {orlow steps: h, 5, 6, zr g, g, }0,
11.

(8*55) wz-,t6
2otZ
UNIT 'fJ"J
JOB SHEET
LSISOlrl 2 'i{2-J7
cnrcroo tctfool of ut?crrJlxtxc

CROifN
I Pendant Type

{iNp wPPtlEp*i
T0otfo EQUIPldillTq
Case opener - Screvrdrivers - File * Flat pliers

PBOC}DIIRE RETEAESCg

Poc-I{Eq
Hqp19 4FPracgryE"ff cFry
ryArqH
1. Renove movementfrom case. Leg. 1

2. Select crown of proper sLze, shape, tap size and solor to $ec, L?
fit case.

3, P1ace crorn over the pend.ant opening. (Should fit freely, )

l+. Screw crown on stem.

5, Snap crorrn into ivinding position and nake sure the crown covers
the pendant opening.

IICTE: If crolrn dces not cover pendant opening, a shorter post crown
j.s required. ff it does not snap into winding position a
longer post cro'tvrr is required.

6, Replace novement into case.

(845) w2-t7
UNIT }YI JOB THEIT
trI301{ 2 cillcrgo rcHoot ot uttcflrtltrc W?-JB

C&OtJfNr Regu-lar Swiss fype Bracelet

sIPPIEF.:.
T99rs,-.-SUIPeE\ir'-iil'iD
Case opener - Screwdrivers - File - Flat pliers

FROSEDUBS

I10wTg qplirrcE NE}{cF0$n{('f]RIs,_r

T;AIqH
)
1. Itemove the movement fron the ca-qe.

2, Rernorrethe siern from the movement.

3. $elect a crorvn of the color, size, opening, post length arrd thread
size to fit the case and stem,

j+, $crev,r crown on gtem.

5. Replace stern and crown in movernent'

6. Replace movenent in c&s€r

7, Check for proper clearance of crown and case "

B. Check for proper u"inding and setting'

N0TBI If winding and setting are not functioning properly the

foll owing corrections nay be necessary:

Crown resting against the case, movement not winding properly;

this j-s generally an indication that a cro$n vrith longer poet
or a ner{ stem is needed.

Too much clearance betvieen case and croarnl eitber replace croTvn
with short post crown or reduce the length of the tlrread on stem.

(B*55)we-;B
UNIT TfI JOB SH:ET
rrsiol{ 2 cHtcrgo scHoor ot wAtcHffArtilo w2-Jg

CROY9N:s{ater-proof

INTR0DUC?ORY
INFOnit{AT
IoN

In selecting a crorrn for a water-proof case, lt is necessary to know

the tap size, the case pipe or tube diameter, length of crown post,
and eolor.

r9ol#, _ffiH,rPFs#f,r
AlrpsuFFirES
:
Flat pliers - Screvrdrivers - Case opener - Case vise

PROCEDURB

HOyT0 REPL,S:C.E i,1'ATER-FROOFCROI{I{

i,t-r+Y
1. Open case,

?. Renove stern from novernent,

3. Place cror.,mover case pipe tube. Make certain it fits a}l the nray
down to the case ring, (fne crovrn has a gaslcet ineide so it ritl
fit quite tight, )

l+. Screrv crovf'n on stenr.

5. Replace stem into movernent,

NOTE: If crorm does not fit dc,wn to case ring, the stem can be shortened.

If crolm wilJ- not $nap into vrinding position you should replace with
a ero'tnrrvrith a longer post or replace with a new stem.

(B-55) w2-J9
 uillT rI JOB gHCET

Lfi3Ot'l 2 cxlcAoo scHool 0t w^Tc|ft rtxo W2-,I10

B0lW5: Antierer Rourrd, Fancy

fmIS, &UIzuENT AI{D $I}PPLft}Sr

Conbination bow pl.lers (opening and clostng)

FROC!DURE RSFEA$ICE

qoqtg TEPlagg,
r!ff BOn
1. $elect bow of proper slze and style to f it the case. Ires, 2. Sea. 53 r 5b
2. Spring bow open ririth borr p3-lers and snap in place on pendant.

3. Check for Fnug flt.

l+. If too Loose, tighten with bow pli€f,sr

NO?E; llhen ordering a new bow, indicate style of bow, size of sase,
solor and measr:renent bet'ween contact point,s.

(845) rrz*,no
UNIT ]t{I JOT THCTT
t!g3(r1{ 2 cHfcroo $tltoot a! YAtc$ffArtxo :T2-'J11

STfi4q: Tap Sizes

IN?RODUCTORY I ON
INFORIdAT

fnformation on tap sires, Swiss & Anerican.

seTsl-ll$,€._:iq9F r*p #0 !! #lF

Tap r+O.D. in Mi8
-0-r--;0T1 fnches Tap *Q.D . in $M Inches

re-*-.m-
T *T3'5---- "Efi- T-T.T'*----*-T1S
r--T35 :W* 9 1.05 .0111
T-r--.6f, ry_reT_
srbTviqlaes. f{gn l8s to. 3/o
Sl4&TcAN
$ize *0.D. in lfif fnches $ize +rC,D. in trdlr,I Incheg
lUs 2.27 . oug 6s 1.lU .0h6
T5$ ILT .O5B- ffiru
lZs 1,18 , 0lt6

**Outside Dianeter .

r0or,lr, gS,uJpMqNf
At{pqqlplrsg-i ?
/,i
,5
\-'--1

$tera with knovrn tap size,

handle . Dri11.
wood, plastic or metal '€-1
'fa
PROCTdDIIRS .--1
Y-
& rAE o/*r.pE
HoyTq.$fs,KE
1. Select' sten vrith known tap diameter.
a
I
2. Break off pilot.
l
I
3, Dri).l lrole in handle slightly smaller
than the sgu.are on stem. I
I
I
l+' Mourrt stenr in handle. I

I
I
5. iliark tap size on handle, ___l

NOIIE: These sizes may vary as much as ,0.3 to '01*

o"f a rnilli-meter, but are generaS-}y close
enough to determine the rtght tap size of a
orown.

(8-55) ly2-&1