ITATIHttlfl]fE

SH(}P TRAIHIHG
JOB GUIDTS

LESSON
3
Fitting watch crystalsand watch Attachments
for Practiceand Profit

Sections7O- 86

cHlcAG(} $cHoot or wATcHftiAKlltG

lil30 H. llllvcukrl lw. . (hlcrrya *7,lllinoil
this pageintentionallyteft btank
 MASTER WATCH}TAKING Lesron 3
A *lsderq Cermpletet
PrscticslCovrre
Sectionr
cHrcAGo scHool oF wATcHtrAKtilG
7O ta 86
Founded l9OB by Thomor B. Swoozey

FITTING WATCH CRYSTALSAND WATCH ATTACHAAENTS

AND PROFIT
FOR,PR,ACTICE
Scc. ?O- Millimeter - A Unit of Measure dredths of a millimeter. Later a mierometer will
Throughout your course and career in Watch be used which measures to 1/100 of a mm.
Repairing, make it a practice to earefully deter- Mainspringg and watch glasses are being
mine the exact measurement of every piece of g:aug:ed by the metric system much more than
material used for replacements. Do not attempt formerly.
to t'guess." Guesswork is the method invariably
S€c. 7l - Lignes
used by careless workmen. W'atches are mad.e
to exact measurementsand g:augesmust be used The F'rench "ligne" (line) is also used in
to determine correct measurementsfor replac- watchmaking. The sizes of French and SwieLs
ing or making perts. watches are designated in lignes. The ligne is
1/11 of an English ineh and, l/t2 of a French
Several standards of measurementare used
inch. A ligne equals 2.25 mm.
by watchmakers. The English measures of
Iength consisting of the inch, foot, ete., are not
practical for our work. For instance, the inch
is divided into so many divisions-16ths, 32nds,
64ths, 128ths, and L0O0ths-that it requires
mathematieal skill to figure out the decimal
equivalent of the parts of an inch. One cannot
tell instantly that 7/64ths of an inch written
decimally equals .10938 inch unless he has the
equivalents memorized or a printed table at
his elbow. Both methods are in common use.
In your work, you will us€ a unit of measure
called a millimeter. The metrie unit of length is
the meter whieh is equal to 39.37 English
zzS|.ZES
tilTHEMETntC
4
ff l0 fl E 13t+t5 t5 tt t8 Be0u 22?3242s26?728+8

r8i n t t fi t t t t t fi tt tt ti fit8tl Sec. 72 - f,smpariaon of Sixteenth and Metric

Syutems
18ff!6stzEsllf TlfEsrxrEEilTH
18 Among the older watchmakers, there are
Frc5O many who use the sixteenth system. Figure 50
inches. The millimeter is the one-thousandth sho\rysthe units of 18s divided into sixfeen parts,
part of a meter and the abbreviation is mm. 18-0/16th to 18-15/16ths. The most mode:m
Thus 1 mm equals l" millimeter, 6 mrn equals system is the METRIC SYSTEM. In figure 60,
6 millimeters, 20 mm eguals 20 millimeters. notice the metric numbers 408 tn 429, divided
into 22 parts of.L/lOth of a millimeter each. You
Pivots in watches, outside diameters of have 22 sizes in the metric system and only 16
jewels and jewel holes are gauged in hun- sizes in the sixteenth system. fn other words you
have more in-between sizes, figure 50A,
Iresson 3 MASTER IryATCHMAKING Section ?S

Sec, 73 - Readins a Millimeter Gauge the gauge is lsed for depth measurementsas
Chart A, figure 5, illustrates a common type illustrated in figure 6.
of millimeter g:auge.The jaws at B, figure 5, are Figure 4 illustrates the slide'measuring 34-
for outside measurements.C is the tongue. D is 2,,/10thsmillimeters. Count the number of lines
the slide whieh contains a scale at E. This scale on the tongue before the 0 on the Vernier Slide.
is NOT divided into miilimeters. It is a Vernier This is 34. Now notice which line on the Vernier
Scale,and is used to divide a millimeter into 10 Scale coincides with a line on the tongue
equal parts, making it possible to measure in scale (only one will eoineide exactly) ; in this
tenths of a millimeter with a gauge of this type. particular case,it is the third line or the end of
Notice the frrst ten divisions from 0 to 1 on the second division. This equals 2/10ths of a
the tongue, figure 1. Each one of these divisions millimeter. Now add 84 plus 2/10ths written

FIG.I FIG.2 FIG.3

0 I 2
TONGUE
SLIDE
C.uB. Clat.t O9acil tltO tla horil lO,/lO of I r/r 9!t.r{ t+-z,ho tlt

L9gfazr
r456lCga

?hlcbc'' oif bottor of bcrrl lr 8.1f0 r,h

E
-\

o
I

I
t ll 9
{

?b€ Gtugs lor rl

\\ FIGT *a/rc {t. r\dd to

,.dt
rbir
2 t/t., rhlcb 1! tLc tb lck-
rorl0r rbgtl ol
CHART tr.tr ;h

i
ot tLr ts Jerr tt
tcl). ?o,trl b.lalo dtr. rta b.|tal l!(r darlac
of birrrl Lr /5-9/to.l. la ltlAQ Vrr

equal 1 mm. The Vernier Scale located on the 34.2 mm. All measurements are read exactly
slide (figure 1) is divided into 10 equal sections the same way in measuring the depth, figure 6,
and these ten divisions egual 9 divisions on the and outside measurements, figure 5.
tongue. If the slide were moved so that the Inside measurements are talen as shown in
second line on this slide coincides exaetly with figure 7.In this particular case, the gauge reads
the second line on the tongue seale, flgure 2, the 13.9 mm. If o{'ever, &s this reading is the
jaws of our caliper would be open one-tenth of a measurement between the jaws, it is neces-
millimetgl-g lines two-tenths, 4 lines three- sary to add 2 ftrn, the thickness of the two
tenths, etc, Figure 3 shows a reading of 1 mm, jaws {one mm each), to the total making
If the line marked 0 on the slide, figure B, were a lotal inside measurement of L5-g/10ths
moved to the next line on the tongue, it would mm. It will take some time to become accus-
read 2 mm and so on up the tongue which has tomed to measuring in millimeters if you have
a total of 100 mm. The small inverted figures never used the metric system before. You should
on the tongus, figure 5, are for reading when practice by using your millimeter gaug:e at every
Sections 74 and 75 MASTER WATCHMAKING Lesson3

opportunity.There is very ]ittle in watch re- g00d will and an excellentprofit if he can give
pairing, especially in the more advanced work, quick service. The repair man who is on his toes
that does not require the use of eibher a milli- realizes that quick service without saerificing
meter gauge or mierometer. quality is & sure way to keep his customers.
Many stores carry an immense stock of crystal
fnterest, accuracy and progress in wateh- blanks. It would be impossible for the beginner
making will be assured when reading of the to stock the thousands of sizes and shapes of
millimeter gauge is mastered. watch crystals. Part of this lesson will explain
Sec. 74 - Profits from lryatch Cryatale how you can make watch crystals fit practically
any style watch case with a little practice and
The fitting of watch crystals or watch
without a great deal of investment.
glasses is a lucrative part of the watch repair
business. Practically every watch purchased in Sec. 75 - Fitting Round Watch Glasres
the llnited States is brorrght into the watch re- The first step is the fitting of round watch
pair shop for a new crystal at some time" It is an glasses. Glass is probably the best material
essential part of the repair business and the for use in protecting the faee of a wateh.
wateh repair man can create an abundance of Glass has one fault; it will break. However, it

::::: - :::::

rfi ,-^-
J 4;V
o;(

8a z .-=&
HtcorcAYEs LCXTITLE
CHEYEE5
tENTILtTS
Miconcrvo crystels are finish- Sinilar in sb8pc asd of the
ed witb a sbarp bevded edge A high grade watch gls$, in- same quelity rs thc L€sHth
and used on the ordinary open tended for use on the betts crystat. Tbc hcight of th
face wat& rssc. grade open face Fatchfs, Tbcir Lentiile Cbevoe acar the @:
strednlin€ dome sbspe is a truc is tbe saso ssst thcmtcr, giv-
compliment to thc better qual- ing thehasds sftieutroom to
ity open facewatch. p8ss. Eryccially adapted f o r
higb grade tbh model sstf,b€.
G

g
ilTrA THrcr
HrcOTCAVES
Thc crtra thic&nessadds
double strength. Edges are
sb8rp and clean cut. Recom-
rj
ETIPIRECHEYET5
Less expensive, but equally as
practical as Lentille Chevee
CENEVAT
-)

C'cnevacrystals are furaisbcd

Crystals. A thi.n, bevel-edged in various hciihts for doeed
ncqed for use oo silver and
silvcrine open face watches,-
glass for bracelet and pocket face or hunting satch clses,
watcbes. Unexcelled f or tbe
such as are carried by railroad
enginccrs,etc.
thin model lower priced, open
face watches. FrG.5OB
 I-,esSOn 3 MASTER WATCHMAKING Seetions ?6 and 77

does not scratch easily and if "snapped in" prop- that no broken bits of glass or dirt remain.
erly, it will not come out. you may have cus* Figure 50C illustrates the method used in
tomers who ate constantly breaking crystals measuring a bezel with a millimeter gauge.
and will desire one that wiil not break. A The reading of the scale in this case is exacily
good repair man is always equipped to give 39.5 mm. However, we are not using the inside
his customers what they prefer. Unbreakable of the jaws whieh is the distanee the Bg.b mm
watch glasses are clear and flexible. The round represents. It is necessary to allow for the thick-
No Breaks are most always inserted with force. ness of the jaws (1 mm each) or Z mm making
The main objection to non-breakabie watch our aetual measurement 4L.E mm. On the
modern metric crystal charts the decimal point
and the mm are dropped leaving only the figure
475 which represents the size of our crystal.
41.4 mm equal s N o. 414; 2l .6 mm equal s No.
216, etc.
Figure 50D illustrates a type of crystal
gauge which measures in the metric system.
In figure 50-D notice the two arrows at A.
The longer arrolt' indicates the movable jaw
used to measure the outside diameter of a round
watch glass. The shorter arrow indicates the

glasses are that they u'ill scratch and, in some

instances, when too much pressure is exerted on
the center of the non-breakable glass, there is
a possibility that the hands or the center pinion
may be darnaged. Some have a tend.eney to
E
shrink and, after a long period of time, there is trl
N
a possibility of the non-breakable crystal falling tn
r
out. o
Sec. 76 - Types of Round Cryctals c
o
In figure 508 are .chou/n the characteristics ill

of round glasses with the tratie names listed

below each illustration.
F or a] l pr ac ti c a l p u rp o s e s , th e L e n ti l l e i s
probably the mo.qt satisfactory for use on open
face watches, as it allows more room for the
movable jaw used to measure the opening in the
hands and is neater. bezel. ?he divisions shown on the vertical scale
The Miconeave and extra thiek Miconcave are centimeters which 1\'e eonvert into milli-
are used on the older types of watches and orr
meters as follows:
lailroad models where more _ctrengthis needed
th an c an be s up p l i e d b y a L e n ti l l e , 1 Centimeter = 10 Millirneters
2t(=20t'
Sec, 77 - Fitting Crystal to Open Face lVatch 3 t' =30 '1
To fit a lvatch glass to an open face watch, 4'(=40t1
remove bezel. Be certain the bezel is clean and 5 =50
" "
Sections78 to 80 MASTER WATCHMAKING Lesson 3

The circular.qcale
is dividedinto tenthsof a Notice in figure 50F this label has a $rnall
millimeter. The total is obtained by combining number printed on it, in this case, No. ?. This
the reading on the vertical seale and circular refers to the heisht of the crystal. In the older
scale; types of hunting case rvatches, this number
Example: would usually be No. 5, meaning 5 high. The
Reading on Vertical Scale : 40 mm rtifferentheight.sare 4, 5, 6,7 and 8. The thinner
Read i n g o n C i rc u l a r Sc a l e : 1.5 mnr

Total : 41.5 mm
Remove the decimal point and the size of
glass illustrated is 415.
Sec. 78 - [n3sYlitt'
In the modern sh<lp, you woulcl select from
stock glass No. 415. If the glass selected did not
snap in, you would try another of the same
measurernent until you found the correct size.

models use 7 or 8 high. There are so few of these

watches in use today it is hardly profitable for
the average man to earcy a complete stock of
Geneva glasses. It is rnore profitable to order
from a regular material house. Be sure when
ordering to send the bezel and, if possible, the
case so that the correct height may be seleeted.

Sec. gO _ gslgsting Fancy lVatch Cryrtalr

Figure 51 is a crystal gauge for measuring

fancy and round crystals, lVhen measuring a
faney case with & G-S Crystal Gauge, it is
Figure 508 shows how to insert glass. Put diffieult to obtain its exact size to a tenth of a
glass in lower edge of bezel rvith thumbs and millimeter. SOME G-S Crystals are made 1 to 4
fingers, drarv the glass in direction indicated by TENTHS OVERSIZE to frt cases which vary
Arrow A until glass snaps in. Remove label,
clean watch glass both inside and out, dry
Oh,EAISiC'{Str C-S FA'\ICY AT-ID ALSO (G.S ROU}D)CRYSTALS
thoroughly and replace on case. (gzEs FROM A4 TO reJ) nRe CivEruiru Uiur-ruCTfRg G-S
RAJI$ rrcr,r l,/4 gzE To 70 ARE CiVg,t ilv Spectru G-s SlzES
Sec. 79 * The Geneva Crystal
The Geneva is used only on hunting case
watches, Lesson 1, figure 11. These crystals are
very thin and although the sizes are metrical!1'
t he s am e, th e y w o u l d b re a k i f u s e d on & n open
crrilAiloft$$Q!_[rclfll{f (o .$.r.!r,, i, il!,
face watch. GAucr Fon e.s rrrxo nounio crfiiats lft
For measuring the heieht of Geneva crystals,
the gauge illustrated in figure 50D can be usecl
as follows: Press the unclerside of the watch
glass against the small rod projectilrg through
the Iower end of the gauge at B and the pointer
will indicate the heisht on the inner circle slightly in size. Therefore, when selecting a
f igur es 0, 1 0 , 2 0 , a n d 3 0 a s fo l l o w s : crystal, always try a size from 1 to 4 tenths
smaller. You will often find that this crystal rvill
Z4-Heisht 4
fit correctly with very little filing, if any.
20-Heisht 5
16-Heisht 6 More than ever the fancy watch crystals
12=Height ? are becoming more popular. There are thou-
8*Height 8 sands of different sizes and shapes,
 Lesson 3 MASTER WATCHMAKING Section 81

This is the Chart of KK Fancy Crysral Shapes

Figure 52 shows an illustration of a ferv of

th e m any s hapes . T h e s e s h a p e s e a n b e o b ta i ned
in glass or non-breakable and usually have to be
touched up with a glass grinding wheel, figure
524, or with a file, figure 528, for the non-
breakable.

t#roag vey of filing-Do not file cro6swise.

Right vey of fifing-Hold as illustrated with

In ordering fancy crystals, first determine
the thumb on dome side of crlctal, File
the shape as in figure 52. Measure the length lengthwise on edge and form a slight bwel
and width in mm, fig. 52C, or as illustrated in on crystal.
fi g . 51. Now s ele c t y o u r c ry s ta l a c c o rd i n g ta
shape, length and t'idth and fit into bezel. There
a re m any s hapes o n th e ma rk e t a n d y o u s h o u l d
obtain a crystal catalog from the concern you
se l e et as y our s upp l y h o u s e .

Sec. 8t - Tools and Material to Make Your

Own Crystalr
A s has been exp l a i n e d , th e b e tte r e q u i p pecl
shops earry many different st-v*lesand shapes
of watch crystals. This enables them to give
quick serviee. However, for the man starting in
Section 82 MASTER WATCHMAKING Lesson 3

business, it is profitable to make his orvn crr'<-

tals. This also gives practice fitting different
s hapes of b e z e l s . Wh e n y o u h a v e a d vaneed far
enough to take a job it will be a simple rnatter to
t ouc h up cry s ta l b l a n k s th a t c o me v e r y cl ose to
being t he co rre c t s i z e . Iro r th i s l e s s o n, u,e w i l l
need beside our crystal blanks, the following:
Alcohol lamp
Flat file
Cutting pliers
Coping saw
Crocus cloth
Sec. 82 - f,s11i6g and Shaping Material
Silver paste
Crystal cement The procedure in cutting and shaping
Stylus or awl material is as follows:
Remove paper cover from crystal blank,
Dome shaped glass lense or paper lveight
figure 53. The size of the crystal blank should be
Soldering tweezers
CI ean b e z e l th o ro u g h l y , re mo r,i n g' cl i rt arrcl
bits of broken crystal.
Lesson 3 MASTER WATCHMAKING Section 83

approxirnately t/2 ineh longer and w-ider than This is the simpler form of rn'atch crystal and
the bezel to be fitted. if on your first attempt you do not get a perfect
fit, cio not be disconraged. It will take practice
Heat erystal blank over alcohol lamp as
shown in flgure 53-A until blank is soft and but eventual l y you w i l l be abl e to turn th em
p l iable. out rapi dl y.

Quickly place blank over frame of bezel,

figure 53-C, and with fingers mould edges over
FOf,Er Alrays fll6 tro opposite sld.es to flt flret.
sides of case.
Carefully apply heat to ends of blank and
using the awl form over each end of case as Sec. 83 - Doming Round Crystals
in figure 53-D.
Your ingenuity will be taxed in making the
The blank should appear similar to the one various sizes and shapes that will be encoun-
illustrated in figure 53-E. The amount of eurve tered. Individual instructions cannot be given on
or dome to the crystal should be of suffieient the thousands of different sizes and shapes.
height so that the hands n'ill have ample These instructions are basic instructions. In
elearance. fitting other crysl"tr such as square, round, etc.,
With a scribe, scrateh outline of the bezel it is neeessary to dome our erystal by another
as in figure 53-F allowing about 1/16th inch for method. It would be fine if a mold for each
finishing. different size could be made. but this is im-
Using coping saw, cut away surplus material
from both ends and sides, figure 53-G.

Flace flat file on bench and draw crystal

across cutting teeth of file, figure 53-H, until practical and expensive. A round glass paper
edges are straight and smooth and crystal will weight, optical lense or wood block about 2
snap in bez el- inches in diameter and 7)/2 inehes high with a
To polish edges of crystal repeat the above smooth snrface can be used for this purpose.
method, using crocus cloth and silver paste, Figure 53-K is a" sectional view of such an
figure &3-J. obj ect.
Seetion 83 MASTER WATCHMAKING Lesson 3

I BtzEL
\ I NVERTED
OVER
) GRYSTAL
\ MATERIAL
FORM OVER
/HALF ROUND
\ oBJECT

Figure 53-N illustrates the method used to

file a round crystal.
After selecting a blank, heat over alcohol Figure 5li-P illustrates the use of crocus
Iamp as before until blank i"spliable. Now quick- cloth or crocus cloth and sil'n'er paste to bolish
ly place blank over block and with the bezel to edge.
be fitted inverted, hold blank until coo}, figure Use the methods described or combination
53L. Remove and you rviil have an outline of the of methods best suited for each job.
bezel in the blank whieh now should be domed

After crystal is snapped in, flow crystal

cement arouncl edge of bezel sealing it against
dust, figure 538. A properly fitted crystal should
high enough for hands to pass. At this point,
snap in; the cement is used primarily to
there are likely to be a few bubbles in the glass.
exclude dust. Practice on as many different
If so, pass blank through flame two or three
types of rvatch bezels as possible and you will
times until bubbles disappear. Trim and finish
soon be in a position to turn them out rapidly-
as before.
It rvill not be hard to reach the speed of 3 to 5
Use cutting pliers instead of saw to trim an hour at substantial profit.
crystal blank as illustrated in figure 53-l{.

l, lor Drrlproofiqr*After 2. lot Carncnting - When

crystal is inserted, apply cryrtals are fitted inqtogctly,
point of tubr around outside loose or in very rhallow
edge of groove and crystal. grooved cases, apply cem.nt
Press tube very lightly, ce- direct to groovei then insert
ment witl fill in anyopeningr. crystal.
Lesson 3 MASTER WATCHMAKING Sections 84 and 85

Sec. 84 - SPring Bars

This is another profitable part of your busi-
ness. Most men's wrist watches and some models
of ladie,s' sport watches use leather .straps to

Frc.54.
tE tM---t
A B c

trlI'
It
?7/16 *g/16"-i

:F
l!
d-]:
L-a

k-5/s-.1
"-n/t€-t "-3/€-1
ll
l.- tSZtO'-.i I*7/8'4

ke ep r v at c h in p l a c e . T h e m a j o ri ty o f l e a t her
straps are held in place by spring bars, figure
5 4 . T his is enlar g e d to s h o g ' d e ta i l . F i g u re 54A
sh o ws ac t ual s i z e s w i th th e c o rre s p o n di ng
measurement listed belorv each spring brr.
Fi g ur e 54 illus t r a te s th re e ty p e s o f s p ri n g b a rs:
A, t he s ingle s ho u l d e r, B , th e d o u b l e s h o u l der, having pins instead of holes in the lugs of the
and C, the Female spring bar u.sed *'ith cases case figure. The double shoulder spring bar is
the one preferred in most cases. Remove as in
figure 55 or figure 554.

Sec. 85 - Fitting Watch Straps

Leather straps can be purchased from 1t2
inch to 15,i16 inches wide. In order to seleet
the correct size of strap or spring bar, measure
distanee between lugs, figure 56, with an
ordinary rule which measures in sixteenths
of an inch. Select strap of the same width and
after slipping spring bar through strap, figure
564., replace on watch. Usually the shorter
piece of strap contains the buckle and is re-
placed between lugs on section of case near the
figure twelve on dial.
Section 86 MA$TER WATCHII{AKING Le'sson 3

Always determine which way customer pre-

fere strap by examining position of buekle whe:r
removing old strap. There al'e many good quali-
ties of straps and your dealer can supply most
any kind desired. In most cases, the regular
length is used but there are times when a man
with an extra large wrist needs an extra long
strap or, in other cases, where it is necessary
to use an extra short strap. In either case, when
ordering straps, be sure and specify Regular,
Extra Lougl or Extra $hort. Example:
1 Regular Calfskin 5/s Inch Regular
6 Piepkin and from a variety of manufacturers. Usually
2 Regular 3/,t,Ineh when broken, the customer is delighted if shown
2 Sxtra Short s/s lnch a new one. However, replacing cord bands is
2 Extra Long L/2 Ineh another way to give a customer quick service. It
Keep a good supply of spring bars and straps is only a matter of a few minutes and small
on hand. The 5/B inch width is the most com- investment to replaee cords quickly. There are
monly used. several different diameters of cords used and
other eolors than blaek, sueh as rose and brown,
*ffi are available. The most used size is called .075.
'::l !i!*re
,A&*
*
F
*e1,#
.*}ti Material: Cord
#.ffi

*
.a.&*..
i'dibr
t*:*e-
Ordinary Paraffin
* #
Alcohol Lamp
tt". rdl|,3*;
dr6,iH

;i
;$rl|i-
trf*lrf
:*tt.t:;
Awl
.Y St frrif
i
W
1A.,!.l..:
]w^L
Melt a small amount of paraffin into a metal
I
':.1
f'&-n" container sueh as a material box, figure 59-A.

tu Remove the catches and the small clamps at

le
ht
a-, each end of cord with awl, fgure 58' Cut a piece
U t'ryl
fJ
't of new cord for each side exactly the same
t*B{
a&*il*
length as the ones you are replacing. Use a
ral-ar blade, figure 59. Heat wax until it is
4 t{-trb
rr"&$
tdrf;.t
-
I
,a'&,l!
}{# melted and dip ends of cord into melted parafine
.*4,*
l#"*
I
T -*r,& ancl remove quickly, figure 59-A. Let cool, r€-
tffi place cords, clasps and clamps and iob is done.
tffi
h $fiaf
ffi
@ ffi
td#

Sec. 86 - Replacing Cords

Most ladies' watches, especially the smaller
sizes, are held in place on the w'rist by cord or
metal bands. Figure 57 illustrates three common
types of rvatch bands or watch attachments.
A is a metal watch band for ladies' watches. B
is a metal watch band for men's watches. C is
the cord type of attachment used mainly oil
Jadies' watehes. In most cases, metal bands can-
not be repaired except by the factory. The cord
type Jadies' watch band frequentiy needs nerv
cords and these are easily replaced at a profit.
When the cord is worn out on band, it is
only necessary to replace the cord. The metal
attachments, in most cases, are used over
again. Metal bands come in a great many styies
 HOW TO FIT G-SFLEXOR,OUNDCR,YSTALS
l. Measure bezel with G-S gauge exactly
across center. The size is where the line on
gaug€ meets groove. Use crystal not rnore
than rh siue larger than bezel.
fxemple--when bezel measures 4$r/z<tse
crystal size 41. Do not $38 rire 4lrh.
Hxceptiot-For pocket watches with deep
grooved bezel, a crystal one size larger may
be necessary. Never stretch crystal over one
size larger than bezel.

2. Select block marked No. 41, (same size

as crlatall . Number in center of each block
indicatcs number of plug to be used.

3. Lay crystal in groove of block {sharp

PArEfiTEg C*{b
@e up). Hold bezel over crystal {do not neveRsAEtE a/oCX
lay it downl . Press foot pedal lightly to hold urr8n6/,xABa,E
crystal in place. Then catch edge of crystal
on grooye of bezel on one side and gently ?hb l$rlrft.fior rfi*r tfio orb pncficd red ruccc-
with gradually increasing pressure on foot lul lourd eiltrt iarltrfir1 mctf,od.
lever reduce crptal enough to snap into 6-t Crptrl h d.c.d ln groovc of Bloct. Fhg b pcod
bezel groove. tWhen cr)rs*l is inseried do dma h c.ntrr.' fh bcvrhd adgc of cqntd nbc on thr
not remove hands from bezel until foot cwta of bLc*. anlering thr jroovt of bc:.|, beldlag
pressure is released.) f|**h $ldr GonprGrEior.

HO\ry TO USTTHE GS FAHCY CRYSTAL INSERTTR

When fitting a G-S Fancy crysral, it is often dif-

ficult to force the final edge of the crlctal into
the bezel with fingers. Crystal can be forced into
bezel more easily and quickly with the aid of a
G-5 Crystal inserter, as illustrated.

G-$ Gryrtd lnrarlr-Prtut t{.. ftl6ou{

I . Do not apply inserter on crlatals that are too large. Crystal should be only a ?rifle larger
than case, and fitted into most of the groove by hand before inserter is appfled.
2. Hold the fitted part of crystal and bezel tightly with fingers as illustrated.
3. Placeanvil (B) of inserteron insideof bezel.
4. Hofd bezel or case parallel to lower jaw of inserter so that rubber (A) is in contact with
exposededgaof crptal. With a rocking motion, applySLIGHT PR€SSURE, while gradualty
following expmed edge of crystal until cornpfetely inserted. BE VERY CAREFUL ON
THIN SOFTAAETALCASES.

COURTESY GERMANOW*SIMON MACHINECO.

TAEI"E 0F 00ltrElrlTs; Untt tfll - I"essos $

JoB SfiffiTS-

W5-'Jl * Crystal: Round Gla ss .

W3-JA t' Rou.ndUnbreakable.

Tfg*tr3 f' Sbncy Shaped.

1V5-J4 -. $pring Bars

?ofC-W1*tr5
 UNIT $T
T
JO8 iHECr
trSgoH ? clilt*oo ',V3-Jl
3cffool or uAtcilntfrfrc

ET$lTji'tr Round glass

rgol€r,. *IQUIPNS]{r
,i.NDsIJ3PtIEs
Case opener

PROCMURE NF,TERENCE

i.. OUISS T0 i"N 0FfiN Fj"CE Cj.SE

HOIYT0 FIT /; ROUXID Lesson 3
1. Removebezel.

2. Clean bezel.

3. Determine inside diameter of hezel. Fig. 5W FsD

h. Select glass. Fig. Son
5. lnsert crystal and cement. Fig. SOU
6. Clean. Sec, 78

7. Replace bezel on case,

B. Check hands .

B. HOIf TO Fff J. ROUNDGI"TSS T0 ;' HUNTINC Ci$E Lesson 3

1. Removebezel .

2. Clean bezel.

3. Deternj-ne inside diaaeter of bezeI. Fig. sffi - 5OD

h. Detennine height. illeavy case height 6)

(iriedium case height ? )
(i--verage heavy hetght I ) Fig.5on

5, Select g1ass.

6. Insert crystal and cement, Fig. 5gg

7. Clean. Sec. ?B

B. Replace bezel on case,

9. Check hands,
 UhIIT ffi
JOT 'H:TT
tESSOf,l cHtcrco tcHoor o? wArcHrArrxc w1-tr2

ORSTAL: Round unbreakable

r}ffTTODTICTORYI TF'OIiMAT
ION

Unbreakabl-e watch crystals are rapldly replaeing watoh glaos€sr trdadeof a

dlfferent type of plastlc vihioh has been developed to retai.n lts tranEnrency
and aot be affected by soJ-vents zuch as alcohol, benzine and watch eleantng
solutlons, Ilowever, it is reconrfiiended that non-breakable watch crystal.s be
eleaqed only uith naper,

TO0IS. EQIIWNT Aiso sr.PP,L,F{:

Crys*al gauge or Mllllneter gauge - lnserter set

PROCEDI]1{g

$0-{ qo RE"IAC,E ROINTDIIITBRBAKAB

LE CRYSTA
IS

1 . Remo v e b e z e l .

2 , CI ea !. b e z e l .

5 . Ideasure bezeL r,,rith crystal gaage,

4 , Select crystal - Depending on the assortment oa hand, al1aw L/4 sLze

larger or tf ustng the metric systen about 15/100 nm larger or tf
using the inch system about 6/1000 of an lneh larger,

5. Select male and fenale plug and place in the lnserting tool, Dlaneter
of fernale plug should be slightly less than the f\rll diameter of the
erystal, t{ale lnserter plug should be about ilg of tna lnslde cllameter
of the bezel-.

6. Place bezel over male inserter p1ug.

7 . Place erystal on :nale:lnirerter plugugnd:-holdi.&n poslt ion srlth temaLe

lnserter plug brought in&o positlon so crystal ls centered..

L A pp l y p re s s u re w b l c h w i l l push edge of erysta) down untll bezel wtll

s llp o Y e r e d g e o f c ry s ta l .

9. Turn crystal back and forth whlLe releasing pressure slow1y to seat
c r y s ta l "

10. E lea n c ry s ta l a n d re p l a e e bezel on case.

11. Che c k h a n d .s ,

t g-ss) ws-rz
UNIT WI
JOB SH:TT

LE3goil 3 cntcroo tcnool or uAtcxxlrtxe w6-rB

CSffiT$lF:. I'ancy shaped

$ffegpw3Ok{r\l30srfArroN
The beglnner will generally flnd it more profitable to send his fancY
crystal making to a materlal dealsy w ho caa handl e thi s w ork.

!0Q&9. .EQY.rp'lffi]frA]r.rpsuPFrrEs ;
Glase grinding wheel - Crystal gauge - Crystal cenaent

PROCEDUFE R TEREI{@

Eoqp. gI!, 4AucqrygPm yArc,ir cBYqT4L

l" Reraove movement fron case.

2. Rernove broken glass and clean bezel,

3n Det er mi n e shape.

4. Measure length and luidth with crystal or millfuneter gauge.

5. Shape glass on grindlng ttheel until- it snaps into bezeL, Fig, 52A

54, I f un b re a k a b l e ty p e , s h a p e w l th fl }e. Ftg, 3gB

6, Cem e a t e d g e a n d a l l o l q to d r y. Flg. 5ffi

7" Clean rolth darnp eloth and replace movenent.

8. Check hands,

( e-551 W5-J5
UNIT i{I JOB THTTT

LE33(}il 4
tHlcrco Sctfool. o; rvA?crffArlro ws-r4

SPRTNGBARS

T-03L5., E$]IPI'SvI , At\TIt,,SII9PI,J,$S,I

Sprlng bar remover

PROCgDI]T{E 8E"ffiHENCE

gq:j"39. wgw. Ai{p sErAcE sPRffG pABS

-l-o Check holes in lugs of case to determine lf they are througb'

2, l:i'hol"e$ are through the lugs, use pln enil of spring bar renover
t o d e p re s s a n d re l e a s e th e spr5,ng bar' f ! - g. 55

5" If holes do not come through, insert flat end of opring bar rennver
(cr sultable substitute) between lug and. shoul,cler of sprlng bar and
f or * e b a c k th e e n d .

4, In tho case of a metal band vrhich fits snugly between the lugs, a
s
Jer,^reler? saw nay be used to cut the spring bar.

5. Measure space betloeen lugs. Flg.56

6" S e l e c t a n d re p l a c e s p ri n g bar, Flg, 564

ig.-0s't\t5*r4